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I read this thread from time to time and find the ebb and flow interesting... as well as the seemingly divergent views and discussion / arguments that circle round quite regularly... Personally I imagine I'll go EV for my usual daily stuff at some point int he future when it suits me and when I change cars (so probably during the early 2030's given how long I tend to keep cars but I can't currently see a point whereby all three vehicles I have will be EV's. Aside from that isn't the one best way of reducing pollution and energy / oil use of production to produce fewer vehicles and actually get people to think longer term and actually stop those that have the means to from changing their vehicles every three years or so??? Mostly that has come about from the current vogue for not actually owning a car and the having PCP's and the like and from the desire these days of many to 'keep up with the Jones's' by having the latest and greatest model from so-and-so manufacturer on their driveway (even if they then have sod all in the fridge...)

This worked for me. Battery: 53% charge When I plugged the EV cable into the car, the white light at the charge port went off. Plugged the other end into Podpoint. Juggled the cables in/out etc and nothing was working. I popped the bonnet and pulled the fuse in position 3 (it’s marked as a ‘10’ amp fuse in the fuse box). 3 or 4 seconds later there was an audible ‘clunk’ somewhere in the engine compartment, then I put the fuse back in and tried the EV cable again. Worked first time.

I assume the above is your opinion. However, as the parent of a disabled daughter with significant medical, developmental and other issues I can assure you that the car is in effect the ONLY option. That is something that many people and promoters of public transport, bike lanes and things like the congestion charge simply do not 'get' or understand as they often have zero personal experience of 'the other side'.

After removing the air filter housing there are 4 black square blocks with one 10 mm bolt and one electrical connector to the side. Remove connector, then remove bolt from metal sleeve in one corner of the block, see above. Pull coil pack straight up. I didn't need any special tools. Spark plug is a long way down a small hole. See this thread with photos on another forum where they had issues:- https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/threads/how-to-remove-ignition-coil-units-with-pics.9299/ Thanks. AG Falco

Based on this I am even more sure you will get on with the B6s. The gas pressure adds some stiffness but that only then matches the increased damping they offer. On stock height they really are excellent. Maybe hint down someone local to you to try a car with them fitted. I don't think you will get what you want from B4 or similar.

Right - I have proven that the earth is solid...so no issue there. I have run an independent power to the brake light but although the brake light lights up the error message still exists....so the incomplete circuit must still exist causing the message. I believe that the issue is that there is a break in the 12v wire around where it goes from car into the hatch. Like people have suggested. I phoned a local auto electrical engineer in Edinburgh and he suggested it would be £45 to fix it. So I think I will take him up on that rather than me having to remove trim and do the search. It will probably be a month or so until it is looked at as my daughter is a teacher and I have to work ir round school holidays. I will keep you of progress as things happen. Cheers and thanks for the help and guidance.

Bump for @Bertie90

My guess would be that it is a sheared wire in the rubber trunking area. Sometimes you can feel a broken and “turned up” end/ends by manipulating the rubber trunking. When I’ve repaired this sort of fault, I’ve always drawn the broken end back into the main car body area and added in a length of wire so that both the joints are away from the area that gets flexed when the hatch gets opened/closed.

my apologises about starting this new thread, few reasons to keep it separate: 1. Mk3 coding's thread is grown hugely and isn't easy search something in it. 2. FL codings has several differences. 3. coding procedure has been also changed - before do coding, must be opened bonnet and activated handbrake what have been tested on Mk3.FL MY23 280ps L&K 23.02.21 OK ** Scandinavian Daytime Running Lights 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptations -> Leuchte23SL HLC10: --> Lichtfunktion C 23: nicht aktiv -> Tagfahrlicht --> Dimmwert CD 23: 0 -> 100 --> Lichtfunktion C 24: nicht aktiv -> Tagfahrlicht --> Dimmwert CD 24: 0 -> 100 23.03.20 OK *- - Daytime Running Lights only with switch on ‘Auto’ *** Daytime Running Lights off with Handbrake *** Daytime Running Lights Setting available via Menu 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Aussenlicht_Front ---> Tagfahrlicht nur in Schalterstellung AUTO: not active -> active ---> Tagfahrlicht Dauerfahrlicht bei Handbremse abschalten: not active -> active ---> Tagfahrlicht Aktivierung durch BAP oder Bedienfolge moeglich: not active -> active 23.03.20 ok, Fogs added, headlights didn't gone *** Set Fogs Lights as Coming/Leaving Home Lights 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Aussenlicht_uebergreifend ---> Coming home Leuchten: Low beam -> Fog light ---> Coming-home Einschaltereignis: driver door -> ignition 23.03.20 OK ** High Beam Memory On 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Fernlicht_assistent ---> Fernlichtassistent Reset: active -> not active 23.03.20 NOK, + Foglight ERR - - Coding Eyelashes always on in the headlights 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Change (8)Leuchte17TFL R BLK ......... C17 to Daytime running lights -> Change (10)Leuchte17TFL R BLK ......... CD17 to 100 -> Change (8)Leuchte16BLK SLB ......... C16 to Daytime running lights -> Change (10)Leuchte16BLK SLB......... CD16 to 100 23.03.20 OK ** Comfort Blink Cycle 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Aussenlicht_Blinker ---> Komfortblinken Blinkzyklen: 3 -> 2 23.04.03 OK *** Tear Drop Wipe For Front Wipers 09 Central Electrics Subsystem: 48x LL 221122 Long coding 164DDD -> 1E4DFD -> Byte 0 Bit 3 "Adaptative Post/Tear Wiping Active" -> Byte 2 Bit 5 "Post/Tear Wiping Active" or Adaptation -> Front_wiper ---> Traenenwischen Front Status: not active -> active 23.03.20 OK ** Smoth Dimming / Brightening Internal Light 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Suchbeleuchtung_allgemein ---> KL58 Einschalten mit Rampe: not active -> active 23.05.09 OK * Dim Emergency Flasher Button on Dash 09 Central Electrics Adaptation -> Leuchte 35 LED Warnblinktaster C48 --> Dimmwert AB 15: 100 -> 55 23.03.28 OK *** Change Light threshold 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Light sensor ---> Helligkeitsgrenze_Licht_ausschalten: orig. 2200 lx -> 1200 lx ---> Daemmerungsgrenze_Hysterese_untergrenze: orig. 2200 lx -> 1200 lx ---> Helligkeitsgrenze_Licht__einschalten: orig. 1200 lx -> 800 lx ---> Daemmerungsgrenze, Hysterese_obergrenze: orig. 1200 lx -> 800 lx 23.05.09 OK *** Enable Autolock(based on speed) option in Car Settings 09 Central Electronics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Menuesteuerung ZV Autolock-Unlock: not active -> Adjustable 23.04.20 OK *** Enable Fob with Car Running 09 Central Electronics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> ZV allgemein(Access control) ---> Funk bei Klemm 15 ein: not active -> Active 23.05.09 OK *** Enable passive lock/unlock via door handle sensors (KESSY) with ignition on B7 - Access Startsystem Interface Long Coding 0F20000723 -> 1F20000723 or -> Terminal 15 characteristics of passive entry exit function orig. value: Function only allowed for terminal 15 off new value: Function only allowed for terminal 15 on or off 23.03.20 OK ** Enable Fan Level display on Climatronic Auto 08 Air Conditioning Long coding 11010004004411011005100D00109136 -> 11010004004411011005104D00109136 or -> Blower display in auto operation: Not activated -> activated 23.03.20 OK ** Retain Heated Seat Setting 08 Air Conditioning Long coding 11010004004411011005104D00109136 -> 11010004104411011005104D00109136 Adaptation or -> Retention of driver's seat heater level active for 10 minutes -> active -> Retention of frt.pass. seat heater level not active -> active 23.03.28 OK ** Heart-Beat light effect on Start Engine Button for Keyless B7 Access Startsystem Interface Access Code 20103 Adaptation -> DeveloperCoding: Search lights ---> ZAT_illumination_concept_mybeat_clamp58xt Not activated -> Activated ---> ZAT_illumination_modus_mybeat_clamp58xt Not activated -> Activated 23.02.21 OK *** add Simple Cruise Control 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long Coding 32057FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000066 -> 32057FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076 or -> Cruise Control Mode: --> Activated 23.03.27 OK *** Start-Stop prevent Engine start when Car in front moves 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Adaption --> Expanded restart function: On -> Off 23.03.27 OK *** Overtaking Right Prevention 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long coding 32057FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076 or -> Overtaking_right_prevention: activated -> Deactivated 23.04.19 ok, option added, but works only first of three *** add Tolerance for Predictive Adaptive Cruise Control 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long coding 32055FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728949D812481400680000000000000000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728979D812481400680000000000000000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728979D812481400680000000000010000076 or -> Tempolimitassistent_CarMenu: Not activated -> activated or -> zul_Regelabweichung_CarMenu: orig. Off Small (nothing) Medium (nothing) -> Large (off; low; medium; high) or -> pACC_Learning_drivers_offset: Deactivated -> activated 23.03.31 OK *** Minimize Lane Assist's Ping-Pong Effect A5 Driver Assistance Long coding 00020898116E4020089F10001030008001418000000000000000000000000000 -> 00020898116E4020889F18001030008001438000000000000000000000000000 or -> Point_of_intervention: early -> early_setting_over_menu -> HC_Warn_Intensity: No_Setting -> Setting_over_Menu -> Lane_assist_off_text: disabled -> enabled 23.04.11 OK *** Lane Assist automatic ON from 60kmh A5 Driver Assistance Long coding 00020898116E4020889F18001030008001438000000000000000000000000000 -> 00020898116E4020889F18001030008001238000000000000000000000000000 or -> Hc_variante: Variante_0 (? Off ?) -> Variante_1 (automatic, when 60kmh reached) orig. Variante_2 (manually, by button on Steering Wheel) Variante_3 - 7 (?????) 23.04.11 ? OK ? Emergency Assit mode, what is diff ? A5 Driver Assistance Long coding 00020898116E4020889F18001030008001238000000000000000000000000000 -> 00020898116E4020889F28001030008001238000000000000000000000000000 or -> Emergency_Assist: Not_coded orig. EA_Variant_1 (?????) -> EA_Variant_2 (?????) EA_Variant_3 (?????) EA_Variant_4 (?????) 23.05.20 OK *** Disable DSG coasting(sailing) function on Normal profile 19 Gateway module Long coding 0B0900047F285900AB1042DE980F00010001070000000000000000000000 -> 0B0900047F285900AB0042DE980F00010001070000000000000000000000 or -> FPA_function_freilauf_defaultON active -> not active ^^^ ? ok 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long coding 32055FD25DFFC728979D812481400680000000000010000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728979D816481400680000000000010000076 or -> Sailing_function: not active -> no_predictive_sailing 23.03.27 OK ** Change Parking Assist Switch Off Speed 76 Parking Assistance Adaptation -> Switch-off speed for parking assist 15 km/h -> 10 km/h 23.03.01 OK ** Easy Entry driver 36 Driver Seat Long coding 0010000000000500018280808080000000008181000000D440 -> 0010000200000500018280808080000000008181000000D440 -> 001000020000050001C280808080000000008181000000D440 -> 001000020000150001C280808080000000008181000000D440 or --> Easy_Entry_front: not active -> active --> Easy_Entry_front_over_MMI: not active -> active --> EasyEntry_Enable_Passenger_over_DriverMMI: not active -> active 23.03.20 OK ** Easy Entry passenger 06 Passenger Seat Long coding 0010000000000500018280808080000000008181000000D400 -> 0010000200001500018280808080000000008181000000D400 -> 001000020000150001C280808080000000008181000000D400 -> 0010000200001500018280808080000000008181000000D400 or -> Easy_Entry_front: not active -> active -> Easy_entry_front_over_MMI: not active -> active -> EasyEntry_Enable_Passenger_over_DriverMMI: not active -> active 23.03.01 OK * Easy Entry options in Car Settings 5F Multimedia Security Access 20103 Adaptations Vehicle menu operation menu_display_seat_configuration Not activated -> activated menu_display_seat_configuration_over_threshold_high Not activated -> activated Vehicle function list BAP driver_seat_0x10 Not activated -> activated driver_seat_0x10_msg_bus Not activated -> Comfort data bus 23.03.20 OK * Date format 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C00080188634B1001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188634B1001000800600000 or -> Date: dd_mm_yy -> yy_mm_dd 23.03.20 OK * Refuel Quantity 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C000A0188634B1001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B1001000800600000 or -> Byte 10 Enable bit 4 23.04.03 OK ** ICE Warning threshold 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> outside_temperature ---> p_ice_warning_entry_temperature: 4 °C -> 2 °C ---> p_ice_warning_exit_temperature: 6 °C -> 3 °C 23.04.11 NOK, but it deactivates Start-Stop - Efficiency assist. 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B0001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B0001080800600000 or -> Efficiency assist.: No -> Yes 23.04.11 OK 23.05.20 reverted * Disable Exit Warning 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B1001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B0001000800600000 revert -> 05A50019FF8C000A0189734B1001000800600001 or -> Exit warning: Yes -> No 23.05.09 NOK * Disable Ignition On Warning 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Ignition active message, actuator Driver door(orig.) -> No display 23.05.09 OK * Dashboard Start Screen 17 Dashboard Long coding orig. 05A50019FF8C000A0188734B0001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A0189734B0001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018A734B1001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018B734B1001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018C734B1001000800600001 -> 05A50019FF8C000A018D734B1001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018E734B1001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018F734B1001000800600001 or -> Start screen: orig. Version 1 L&K Version 2 vRS Green Version 3 vRS Red Version 4 Scout Version 5 Škoda -> Version 6 Sport Line Version 7 Škoda Version 8 Škoda 23.05.09 ok * ??? 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Leaving_warning_delay - -> Leaving_warning_delay: orig. 1.6 s -> 3.0 s 23.06.08 ok * ??? 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Tubes illustration orig. Version 0 -> Version 1 23.06.08 NOK, err msg on dashboard "Vehicle is not secured against rolling away" * ??? 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Shift exit warning orig. Car exit warning -> Exit warning, VW commercial vehicles 23.06.14 ok * ??? 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Acceleration display: orig. No -> Yes 23.04.15 OK ** Wheel circumference 1 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B0001000800600000 -> 05A50019FF8C000A0188734B0001000800600000 or -> Wheel circ.: Version 3 -> Version 2 23.03.20 OK ** Wheel circumference 2 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C00080188634B1001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188634B1001000800600001 or -> Wheel circumference 2: Version 1 -> Version 2 Unit 17 Dashboard Speedometer value offset on 100 km/h Wheel circumference Tire 235/45r18 circumference +0% Tire 225/55r17 circumference +1.5% First Second 1 1 -2 ? 2 1 +2 ? orig. 3 1 +4 +3 3 2 +1 0 2 2 0 ? 23.07.05 OK OBDEleven App -> Tailgate Sound orig. ON -> OFF 23.07.05 ? ? OBDEleven App -> Steering Wheel Heating Auto Mode orig. Manual control via Button -> Auto wheel temperature Explanation of remarks before titles: Stars - how useful for me ? - i can't notice improvement or changes NOK - doesn't work or adds err codings were made by First Gen OBDEleven https://forum.obdeleven.com/

Put some premium fuel in it a tankful once a moth works wonders

Many private owners / drivers do keep cars longer, run used cars. Buy used cars. It is the businesses and fleets being more than 1/2 of those running cars in the UK that feed the used market. The government can easily stop the short term ownership and leasing if vehicles. But then UK dealership work shops are so ****. It is time for Local Authority run Testing of cars. It is time for some control over the motor trade cartel of franchised dealerships. The pre registration of vehicles was supposed to have been put stop to. It has definitely not been. Ex management cars is a con on the UK tax payers.

There are now pcp deals where you can have the electric model of a car for the same monthly payment as the ice version

England is keeping it's oil for the future. Time to get it out, and get fracking. What a resource poor country.

Nothing wrong with spending oil wealth funds in Scotland if there was an oil wealth funds.. But the SNP. No business people among them or advisors. They mess up project after project. I was a SNP member. There are a bunch of incompetents right through the party. Just the same as the other parties though. Labour and Liberal Democrats messed up big style. That debts are being paid still and will for decades. An island nation needs boats, ferries and good transport links to islands. Public travel in Scotland is very very expensive.

So why is the protest group called "Just Stop Oil"?, and why is new exploration treated as a pariah? - existing oil fields WILL become uneconomic so replacement will be needed even if we no longer burn oil or gas.

^^ This, in spades. They may look good for a few weeks but the corrosion will lock them on requiring new valve stems.

@MiloFrance ...and sooner or later you'll probably want the window regulator if not the other gubbins.

Similarly, for balance, numerous oil extraction related disasters are well documented: https://ourworldindata.org/oil-spills#interactive-charts-on-oil-spills https://www.britannica.com/explore/savingearth/9-biggest-oil-spills-in-history https://www.idealresponse.co.uk/blog/the-10-biggest-oil-spills-in-history/ https://www.statista.com/statistics/268148/largest-global-oil-spills-since-1967/ Last year, there had been 1 large spill and 9 medium spills: https://www.itopf.org/knowledge-resources/data-statistics/statistics/ "The total volume of oil lost to the environment from tanker spills in 2023 was approximately 2,000 tonnes" I'll be driving the length of the country during the Bank holiday weekend for a week break in Isle of Skye. I'll let you know how I get on

Are they right or wrong In the second and third coloured documents though please? I'm assuming i have a DQ381. Is it worth a change before or after warranty? Thanks

There never ever has been a Year Requirement. Does the service plan include the servicing of a DSG in the price? Is Brake Fluid Changes. Is the Air Filter even if the car has not covered 60,000 miles. (Check it annually.) It was nothing for DQ200,s. 40,000 for others 6 Speed Wet Clutch DSGs, 80,000 for DQ381,s. Some are having them done sooner. Some are having MCU issues / failures.

Right, since you brought them up earlier. So in your opinion, Taycan-man and Geoff are doing the god's work by spreading factually correct information presented in a truthful way? Here's the thing. No, your car does not produce 119 g/km of carbon emissions, it's a lie. There is a HUGE supply chain for the peitrol/diesel that is not often mentioned. No, there is less pollution and environmental damage by EV over its lifetime. Please refer to the links I posted and you quoted. Battery production embedded carbon is cancelled out after first 1-3 years, depending on energy source. You keeps on repeating proven wrong facts and refuse to believe trustworthy sources. That is extremely far from realist that you claim.

Once it has Auto e-Brakes, seat belt off, drivers door open then use the switch and put the Parking Brake off. .................... It would make sense to have the Rear Disc Brakes JUST on 1.5 TSI ACT DSG,s. So we need to hear from someone that has seen them without.

Are you sure you are using the word homologate correctly, I'm not.

I just heard the end of the BBC Scotland MORNINGS show. with Kaye Adams and the Consumer Expert was on. I will listen later to the callers whole story. (Not yet on BBC Sounds.) I just caught the bit it is leased with Salary Sacrifice. Problems with it and he said. 'You can not charge it above 80% for the first 6 months', so that is a loss of 100 miles.' I am interested what he has and what the issues are. But most of all who is feeding him guff like the 80% thing.

How old and how cheap. How much of a service record, maintenance stuff carried out? Asking in case Pre 2012 upgrade timing chain / tensioner. See the thread i will bump that shows the ignition leads.

To some people, status quo is a comfortable refuge, change is scary. Funny questions found on another forum. Imagine a world where BEV is normal and petrol/diesel cars are being introduced: I am thinking of swapping my EV for an ICE car …. 1. I have heard that petrol cars cannot refuel at home while you sleep? How often do you have to refill elsewhere? Will there be a solution for refuelling at home? 2. Which parts will I need to service and how often? The car salesman mentioned oil in the engine and timing belts that need replacing and a box with gears in it. What is this? How much will this service oil change cost and how often – and what happens to the old oil. Also, apparently these petrol type cars generally stop on the brakes alone – so the brakes wear out much faster – how long will they last compared to my current car which lasts over 100k miles? 3. Do I get fuel back when I slow down or drive downhill? 4. The car I test drove seemed to have a delay from the time I pressed the accelerator pedal until it began to accelerate. Is that normal in petrol cars? 5. We currently pay about 2p per mile to drive our electric car. I have heard that petrol can cost up to 8 times as much. Is this true? 6. Is it true that petrol is flammable? 7. I understand that the main ingredient in petrol is oil. Is it true that the extraction and refining of oil causes environmental problems as well as conflicts and major wars that over the last 100 years have cost millions of lives? Is there a solution? 8. I have also been told that you have to transport oil all over the world to turn into petrol or diesel, and these ships have in the past damaged the environment by leaking the oil. 9. I have heard that cars with internal combustion engines are being banned to enter more and more cities around the world, as it is claimed that they tend to harm the environment and health of their citizens? Is that true? 10. I have been told that these internal combustion engines make a noise when you start them – so early starts can wake people up, and driving a lot of internal combustion engine cars in towns makes towns noisy. 11. is it true people can steal the fuel from your tank? 12. what is the drop in range in cold weather, I've been told a car that does 45mpg can drop to 37 mpg in winter – just curious on that one. 13. a friend told me that the exhausts wear out – is that true, and people steal them for the rare material used in them. 14. I was also told – that the exhaust gas isn’t good for you – and if you leave the car running in a confined space – like a garage – you will die – surely that isn’t true is it? 15. next door told me – these petrol cars – carry around 40 to 60 litres of highly flammable liquid which is pumped into a plastic cylinder, and its then exploded to generate expanding gas to move a piston, and turn linear motion into rotary motion. Why would anyone want thousands of explosions happening within a few feet of where your sitting. 16. a guy at work told me – he has a petrol car, and it leaks oil. When he parks it – surely that’s not right is it – leaving dirty marks on the floor and contaminating the environment so directly. How long before this happens if I change. 17. my dad told me – if you buy a diesel car – the hand pump smells very bad, and you have to wear special gloves to stop your hand smelling, and if you spill it on your clothes it terrible. 18. is it true – the petrol and diesel is so dangerous, that you can only buy the fuel at a special filling station, and not anywhere (hotels/Car parks/Home/Work)? 19. while technology is advancing, will I ever be able to refuel my internal combustion car for free using only the sun? 20. would I be better off going straight to horse and cart, and not buying a horseless carriage – they sound pretty awful, burning dinosaur juice and polluting the environment whist funding conflict and war and consuming raw material at an unbelievably high rate. Also: Think of a world full of BEVs and someone comes along and wants to homologate a car (BEV) with a 'fuel tank' attached to it. 'Hi, I'd like to attack a flimsy plastic bottle to underside of this car and fill it with flammable fluid. How can I homologate this?'

B4 will give improvement only when compare to dead OEMs voting for B6 -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/478335-does-the-sportline-have-stiffer-suspension/page/9/#comment-5850315

I can lend you four swear words you can repeatedly use, won't help with the work other than make you feel better whilst doing it. I've not seen one but I've not looked I'm sure there will be some. On other threads here Ootofhere put up some photos of home made diy coil pullers, bent (welding wire, cable-ties and other). AFAIK the coilplugs are tight to get out and back in, you want long (and magnetic if possible) correct size plug spanner and possibly some secret VW grease to help with future removal of at least one coilplug, one one the end I guess , you'll know if you struggle with it to remove it. I didn't do the plugs as by the time I'd added up buying the tools and the plugs it wasn't worth it for for a one-off job, my neighbour will all the tools had moved and my wife said she'd not have the car in another 4 years (she's ****ed-off with it too, obviously it was her choice of car I have no say in such matters but she's learnt her lesson). Years ago a mate bought year-old BMWs and Mercs, also bought a VW Bora, I went in it once, never has a car been so aptly named, he never kept the cars long enough to have much trouble with them, except years back the horrible G-Class thing, slid in snow and bumped square on to a lamppost at very slow speed on the way to me, he was a good car driver but obviously forgot the weight of the vehicle and it being on ordinary road tyres he was so worried about any damage to the front (plastic IIRC), next visit we went to the greasyspoon, first time I'd been in it, sitting front passenger I kept telling him there way a noise that side that wasn't right, he told me not to keep moaning about it, shortly after than the nearside front damper had to be replaced (under warranty). German engineering quality. 😁

Hi, interesting, I had a front passenger window that failed to wind down. Following a lead from this forum I found a separated wire inside the passenger door rubber boot. I rejoined it ( dogs breakfast!) but now it works. I’ll take a look, thanks Dace

Also, if the boot pop fails completely, there is a small hole in the rear plastic trim which from inside the car, you can pop a screwdriver or similar, and lever the latch mechanism, to open the tailgate. This is a sort of emergency backup

Have a look at the wires in that doors bellows as usually front door looms snap or fracture. You might find a dodgy wire that needs fixing and it may contact some of the time. TBH, I’d check all four doors anyway and check real close as it’s hard to spot if it’s only fractured and not snapped.

Yes - try and clean them up and then if you're still concerned ask the garage to put them on the MOT brake tester. It takes a lot to fail that.

Thanks Going to attempt to take the AirBox off today. If you don’t hear from me for a while.. it’s cause I’ve fallen in to the engine bay and can’t get out 😂 Pushing my luck here is their a Video on how to remove the Spark plugs 😬

If you see the image below, this is a pre June 2018 airbag. Notice how the crease on the sides doesn’t continue around the top, so the top of the bag has a smooth appearance. Now if you look at the bag that my car came with below, you should see that crease continues all the way around the front of the bag to make kind of a triangle shape. If your bag looks like the one at the top, it’s shallower and I believe should fit any wheel, although you’ll have a slight gap. If yours looks like the bottom one then it’s deeper and will only fit the new wheels (no idea what the part numbers are). It may be worth consulting with your dealer as, like I said, mine was able to tell me if the wheel was listed as compatible.

and it's exactly for this reason that the Government are targeting "Zero Emissions at the Tailpipe" rather than "Zero Emissions per vehicle built"

Don't you mean 24-229890 for the rear Bilstein B6 shock absorbers? Another surprising thing is that all versions of the Superb MK3 with standard ride height (and possibly 15mm lowered ride height) share the same Bilstein B6 shock absorbers from the Superb MK3 hatchback 1.4 125HP petrol to the Superb MK3 estate 2.0 4x4 272HP/280HP petrol.

Thanx so much Breezy_Pete you're a star and advice regarding the boot taken as well.

Ken Block strikes again 😄 @Prezafab have you really had 106 vehicles or was it a typo and supposed to be10? I was going to post that I have done a higher mileage without ever using any additive and only supermarket diesel without any DPF or EGR problems but then realised that my EGR no longer passes any gases after I fitted an EGR Emulator, I fitted it because I expected trouble from the EGR so I did not post the response. Has your vehicle had the emissions fix? Mine had before I owned it, those that remain with the standard "cheating" software don't clog up the EGR's, my ex UK neighbours car has over 100K miles on the original EGR and cheat software.

Hi, welcome. Quick thoughts. Did you check earth supply as well as power? If you can take off interior panels and get at wiring you could try a test supply and test earth to see if the third brake light works and it turns off the warning (you might have to give the computers the old "off 'n' on agen" to satisfy them with the ignition switch but I don't know. I've no idea of the wiring and connection points so also wonder if you'd be better repairing the break on original wire. Have you checked connectors for issues? I don't know if you could trace the break with an appropriate VW scan tool but with bidirectional you can certainly activate them. Certainly for earlier cars you don't have to have the third light working but have to tell the MoT tester that you have disconnected it and probably get rid of the light on the dash which I don't know if this can be done with an appropriate VW scan tool. You could ask or look on the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Someone now will probably be along here to say something like the wire(s) break in the conduit tube thing between body and rear door or yes run a fresh supply or you need to look at another fuse number, or any or none of above, hopefully not too long before they get here.. Good luck, let us know how you get on in the end. Many Thanks - I will try the testing of earth tomorrow as it was pouring here today and I just nipped out between cloud bursts!! - Will also check the actual connector as I only touched my meter contacts against the accessible contact metal. @Edinburghskodarapid - Expanding on @nta16 above, does the other tailgate functionality all work? - Yes everything else on the car works as expected

Merci!

Agreed, the whole point, is that EVs are not suitable for everyone regardless of them having a driveway etc, despite your suggesting they should be.

Mental image of Pentti Arricola overtaking Tony Pond half-way down a forest stage!

yum yum https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266797257983

I'm not surprised about the charging infrastructure in London and some of the surrounding areas, as that is the place that has the highest density of people in England and the areas with the best support also happen to be where many of the monied people live, which is the main reason. As to keeping 25 miles in your MY so you can drive any direction to be able to quickly charge up, whatever happened to your home charging on your driveway then? There is a wealth of difference between being able to drive a few miles to a suitable charger for the unplanned emergency, in order to top up the battery so you can complete the emergency trip is nothing like doing the same thing in an ICE. I have the choice of around 15 service stations within a 3-mile radius of me and each one has a minimum of 8 pumps, discharging at least 2 grades of petrol and 1 maybe 2 grades of diesel. So that makes 120 pumps at my disposal, many of which are open 24 hours, meaning that on average, they have the potential to fill 1,440 ICE vehicles every hour to the brim if ever required to. That means if ever (not very likely, I grant you) I was called upon, like last night to do a 200 mile round trip to pick etc a family member, I could easily brim my tank and be on my way within minutes, and the same would certainly true for you if you had an ICE car, no need to drive further to a charger then waiting to stick 200 miles of power in the battery (assuming the charger was free and was of the right type and working) then that must also become one of the reasons why some folk don't buy EVs even when they clearly could be charging at home and taking advantage (for now at least) of the lower charging and running costs.

I'd be looking at a S/V 70 or 90 volvo's and staying away from the r design if you want ride quality. Passat GTE worth considering also, if most days your journey is under 30 miles you can pretty much run it on electric and it would cost a few £ a week.

I've not owned a Skoda before (or been interested in buying one), but is it normal for the configurator to be a bit of a mess and for it and the brochure to be very inconsistent? It makes deciding on a car spec (with a bit of guesswork for the VRS, which is the model I'd want) somewhat difficult. * The brochure mentions the VRS hatchback as "coming soon" (whatever that means) but doesn't mention the estate. * The brochure now lists the (rather nice) 19" wheels for the SportLine model (£1055), but they aren't in the configurator. * The configurator doesn't let you add both the HUD and the "Assisted Drive Package", but there's nothing in the brochure (or on the German configurator) to say they aren't allowed together. * The configurator lists the "Light and View Package Plus", which isn't in the brochure at all. * The brochure lists "Assisted Drive Package Plus", but it's not in the configurator. * The "Simply Clever Package Premium" is listed twice, with the same price. If you choose the one on the right it forces you to have electric seats, but if you choose the one on the left, it does not. Also: "its", Skoda, not "it's".

Just as an fyi … for anyone else - the key steps. Not the only way, but worked for me. I used 3 special tools 7mm Allen key socket 14mm XZN triple square socket OBDII Code Reader Connect up battery charger to battery (important step) Release EPB Retract EPB with code reader Jack car wheel up high (wheel about 10” off floor) Remove wheel Remove plastic end plugs from Calliper pins Unscrew & Calliper pins Push piston back fully by levering with a screwdriver between pads & disc. (No need for a retractor tool … simply push fully back) Lift off calliper and temporary tie up with cable tie to avoid straining brake line. Remove brake shoes Remove the 2 x Calliper fixing bolts ( technically they are screws) this was hardest part, I applied heat with a micro gas burner to heat up heads, in the hope it softened thread lock. Take out the Torx screw that holds on disc. Screw in 1 x wheel screw … to avoid disc dropping out when it becomes free I applied dismantling fluid around where disc fits on central hub … then some suitable wallops with a hammer to remove I cleaned area up with brake cleaner, removed any corrosion on hub face, and applied very thin coating of ceramic grease (used a brush to ensure very thin), also applied to ‘ears’’ on new brake pads, and the rear of pad where piston makes contact. Also sprayed rubber boot of piston with silicone spray. Cleaned new disc faces with brake cleaner … and fitted When fitting new Calliper frame bolts, I added Blue thread lock to the first 25mm. Redid all screws to correct torque. Release EPB with code reader Light short strokes on foot brake to reset pads. road test. check code reader for any alarms.

Popping these here in case helpful.