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An update from me ! Replaced the screen digitizer myself , using the YouTube instructions and an eBay UK seller part. I would put my diy skills at about a 6/10 (maybe a 7 on cars!) and it's working a treat ! No dead spots. Definitely worth attempting for £23.

and at least twice the hassle as an ICE. I can get 600 miles + from a 5 minute fill up of my Superb and even if I m down to a quarter of a tank (which is where I generally fill back up) that's still ~150 miles of range for "emergency" use without having to worry about finding an open petrol station. Really not helping on selling a switch to EV ;o)

don't waste your money buy the trusted & established alternative product. obdeleven vag Ultimate are charging money for either Alpha testers or a Lithuanian data harvester. 1st time I have paid full price to be an Alpha (or Beta) tester in 20yrs ,oop's I have had my leg lifted I have tried very hard to use their interface & vag software inc numerous email conversations with them. will no function at all without internet connection, not even a basic system scan, every time try to use always constant connection problems ,2 different android tablets (1 New out of box) & different locations used. one the single occasion of full connection 25mins to scan 1st 6 controllers in scan list. obdeleven tech support virtually non existent. if this really is vag licensed i'm rather shocked tbh no visability as to what if anything is happening & 1 click apps don't link to vehicle build specification & installed features but will write anyway, operations are completely hidden from user, safety net of backup but doesn't always work not to be excessively critical, nice graphics & pretty interface.

And... stalk replaced with one off Ebay. Indicator working again. Thank you all.

You have to think how it works. If you are approaching a bend, the radar is reflected off houses, street signs etc. there are lots of things straight ahead of the car, the radar doesn’t know that the road bends before you get to those houses etc. You don’t want it to jam on the brakes every time there is a bend! The system use Doppler, ie the change in frequency of reflected radar signals when there is a speed difference between your car and whatever the radar reflects off. Same concept as speed cameras. So if the radar sees an object that is 50kph speed difference from your car, and you car is doing 50kph, it knows that the reflective object is stationary and probably some road infrastructure, houses etc. It therefore ignores it. Any reflections that have a Doppler/speed difference that is not the same as the speed of your car, are moving. And therefore probably other cars. The system will react appropriately to them. In the case of a reflection which is moving, but then slows down to become stationary, the car realises that this is a vehicle that has come to a stop. So in summary, if vehicles that are travelling ahead and in range of your radar, come to a stop, the ACC will react appropriately and bring your car to a stop. But if you come round a corner and encounter stationary traffic, or come up behind cars that are already stopped, the system will assume that they are fixed objects like houses etc and presume that the road curves before you get to them. So you have to brake yourself. Obviously it is important to understand how the system works! The other thing to bear in mind is that there is a deliberate limit on how hard the system can apply the brakes. This is to avoid a system glitch causing maximum braking which might create a rear end shunt. So sometimes, even when the system is correctly applying the brakes to avoid hitting the slowing vehicle in front, it might be necessary for you to push hard on the brake pedal. There is a ping and a big red symbol to tell you when to do this!

@Blue8793841 Part number is in Skinnymans invoice above TANK. 5Q0121407M.

Definitely. I assume the system has not been flushed properly, to do it properly you would need to do it multiple times. With main dealer garages being on bonus schemes stuff like this usually happens cutting corners to achieve bonus.

My friend in next days will replace cambelt & rest concerned stuff on his '2013 Mk3 Octy 1.6 TDI / after 210k km (1st time replacement). I asked him to show me old parts later, just for interest- since interval looks very long indeed. Latvian Skoda dealer said that (based on their experience) cambelt and rollers can held this interval normally. But it's more possible that coolant pump will start to leak faster- and at same time people is replacing cambelt and rollers too. To avoid twice job.

I'm an Audi and Volvo driver but I'll let you off just this once! 🙂 Unfortunately drivers of many makes don't know how to use indicators and many drivers of German cars are very aggressive. Their ranks are being joined by powerful EV drivers. Anyway, enjoy being able to turn things off whilst you still can. I hate stop start as well and Collision Avoidance (with its false alerts and sudden braking). With my first XC40 my starting routine included turning them both off but with the new one I can't do that - partly due to it being a mild-hybrid with coasting function. The SS is better and quicker reacting as it uses a combined starter and generator but I'd still prefer to not have it. I get round it by using "Manual" which keeps the engine running or heel and toeing to restart the engine when coasting and wanting engine braking. In city driving I find it so annoying and frustrating with it's frequent and unnecessary operation. At least the Lane Assist isn't too intrusive as it just vibrates a warning rather than tugging the steering. As I mentioned elsewhere this was one of the attractions of the less complicated Fabia and still being able to turn off the SS is great!

@enoktakenokta - Traffic Jam Assist and Adaptive cruise both work by "following a moving object". It needs a reference. Hence in traffic, if ur behind a moving car in ur lane, and it comes to a stop, ur car will stop too. If it moves off, urs will follow. That's wat ACC does. If however there is no one in front of u, and ur approaching traffic already stopped at a junction, then YOU have to brake. ACC will NOT brake for u!! Reason being was that it didn't have a reference point (car to follow) before the stopped/stationary car suddenly appeared.

Ready for the ride through Valhalla. Witness!

It is worth noting that many VAG owners have reported that the: "One-Click Apps – pre-made car coding applications designed to simplify your customization journey" can and will also change totally unrelated and unnecessary coding on some controllers / cars, please bear this in mind and use at your own risk, personally I would ALWAYS recommend you do the physical coding manually yourself (after a little research in what to change). Myself and several other VCDS owners have had requests to try and revert coding done with these Apps.

Hi, I've had several mk1 Octavia's over the years but a few years ago owned a BMW 3-series with a heated steering wheel. Wow...what a thing to have and a real solution to the raynaud's that I suffer with in the winter. Anyway..I sold the BMW and ended up in a mk3 Leon for a bit. I managed to retrofit a HSW to that car and wrote a how-to guide on the seatcupra.net forum. The Leon has now gone - because obviously I wanted to be back in an Octavia - and I have completed the same retrofit in my 2017 FL vRS, using some of the same parts. Got to love MQB platform sharing! So this how to guide is basically a rewritten version of the guide for the Leon, utilising some of the same pictures, albeit the Skoda specific ones are included. I'm going to say that this will work on any MQB platform Octavia, but I'm thinking you will need a 'high' level BCM to get it to work and probably heated seats as a minimum. Can't be 100% certain, but it was a straightforward fit on my vRS (with winter pack). Anyway...here goes: It's actually a really easy retrofit once you get the right parts and if you look around it needn't be mega expensive. The total cost for me to do this retrofit was in the region of £450. So it's not the cheapest by any stretch however if you keep an eye out on eBay and other selling sites the parts do come up for sale at reasonable prices. *I'm not writing this as an idiots guide and won't include how-to's for things like removing the glovebox, airbag, steering wheel or other things. There are guides for that online if you need them, but please only attempt this if you're competent to do so* This retrofit details the procedure for fitting the HSW from a mk3 Octavia/Superb. The mk4 platform wheels may well work however I preferred to keep the wheel and MFSW buttons that matched my car. Parts Required: - The heated steering wheel from a Mk3 Octavia or Mk3 Superb. They are available in both manual and DSG however if you want a flat bottomed one then it'll be DSG only as far as I can tell. I couldn't find a manual flat bottomed HSW anywhere. There are a variety of part numbers but as an easy reference you're looking for the tell-tale two-pin plug that provides power to the heating elements, like this: I bought one from a manual Octavia and sent it off to Royal Steering Wheels to be retrimmed in vRS leather with red stitching (you can see the plug in the below picture too). It's worth noting that if you want a retrim you will end up with a slightly thicker steering wheel because it's not possible to remove the leather from a HSW without damaging the elements. So the retrim leather is laid on top of the existing wheel. The heat still penetrates through without issue: - The HSW specific airbag for the steering wheel - part number is 6V0 880 201 T 1ZY. God knows why but Skoda, in their wisdom, use a different airbag because the wheel is a different shape at the top. This picture shows the differences - the HSW specific airbag is at the bottom of the picture: - Steering wheel control module (also known as clock spring or slip ring) - 5Q0 953 549 B or 5Q0 953 549 D. The 'D' suffix is the newest part number, supercedes the 'B' suffix and is available new on eBay for around £150. These control modules have a different type of plug (14-pin as opposed to 16-pin) which has larger power and earth pins for the HSW, pictured here: - Kufatec MQB heated steering wheel retrofit loom - the Kufatec part number for RHD cars is 43696-1. OR* - 14-pin multiplug so you can re-pin the existing 16-pin plug - 5Q0 972 726 * if you choose to repin the existing plug (as I did) then you'll need to sort out some wiring and pins to suit the power feed and ground wire needed to power the HSW. The Kufatec loom makes it pretty much plug and play. Tools needed: Standard workshop tools including Torx bits 12mm triple square (splined) bit for the steering wheel centre bolt VCDS (or equivalent) for coding - Hex-Net or Hex-V2 as a minimum for MQB coding. Procedure: - Grab a quick VCDS snapshot of the long coding on your current steering wheel module in case you ever return the car to standard. - Disconnect the battery - Remove the airbag, steering wheel, column shroud trim, glovebox and centre console side trims, something like this: - Remove the steering wheel control module. - Unclip and pull out the fusebox - Run the Kufatec loom from column to the fusebox using an appropriate routing where it won't chafe on anything - Fit the power feed and earth of the Kufatec loom to the fusebox and surrounding area according to their instructions (if building your own loom, you can use fuse position SC24 or any along the same row - they are a terminal 30 feed) - Refit the fusebox - Fit the new steering wheel control module - Plug the Kufatec loom into the steering wheel control module (if building your own loom, now is the time to re-pin the original column plug into the new 14-pin plug - this is well documented on other forums however the pin-out is as follows: Pin 1 (16-pin) red/white to Pin 2 (14-pin) Pin 2 (16-pin) brown to Pin 4 (14-pin) Pin 3 (16-pin) orange/brown to Pin 5 (14-pin) Pin 4 (16-pin) orange/green to Pin 6 (14-pin) Pin 5 (16-pin) black/white to Pin 7 (14-pin) Pin 6 (16-pin) black/red (if present) to Pin 13 (14-pin) Pin 7 (16-pin) purple/red to Pin 12 (14-pin) Pin 8 (16-pin) purple/blue to Pin 14 (14-pin) Pin 11 (16-pin) blue/grey to Pin 9 (14-pin) PIn 14 (16-pin) black/grey to Pin 10 (14-pin) Pin 16 (16-pin) black to Pin 11 (14-pin) Pin 1 of the 14-pin plug goes to a 15A fuse protected terminal 30 feed Pin 8 of the 14-pin plug goes to earth. - Refit the centre console side trims and steering column shroud. - Refit the glovebox. - Fit the heated steering wheel - Fit the new airbag Double check you're happy with everything, then reconnect the battery. Should look something like this: Fire up VCDS again, do the relevant coding. Module 08 (HVAC) - Coding - Long Coding Helper (and say "yes" to the "trying experimental features" to see more descriptions of bits) - Byte 11: Add a tick to bit2 and bit3 - Byte 13: Choose whether you want the wheel to come on automatically with either outside temperature or wheel temperature or not at all. Done! Enjoy a little HSW logo come up on your HVAC control screen (press the 'menu' button to access this screen) : Enjoy the extra settings for the HVAC where you can alter the temperature of the HSW, decide whether you want the HSW to come on automatically (3 degrees C or below if I remember rightly) and choose if you want the HSW to come on automatically with the heated seats. Also, if you do switch the drivers heated seat on then this option comes up where you can quickly choose the temperature of the HSW as well: Sorry about the dust and fingerprints on the screen....it's due a clean inside. Check on VCDS to see what's going on in the measuring blocks within Module 16 -Steering Wheel: Look forward to having warm hands come the winter. NB - Mine is a 2017 manual vRS so I didn't have to worry about any coding of the DSG paddles etc. All of the steering wheel buttons worked on my car without any issue. Yours may not be the same, but any issues would be easily solvable with the relevant coding alterations I'm sure. Thanks Tom

@Ootoherethanks for posting the chart and link to the other thread. Interesting that there are different fluid requirements. @tfsparkhope your DSG issues are resolved by the service kit. It’s interesting that the kit includes the filter but only fluid is mentioned in schedule posted by Ootohere.

What is the oil temperature? That is usually a very reliable measurement of the actual engine temperature. If you connect a simple OBD tool, what does that say about the coolant temperature? Do you see any suden rises?

Okay Warrior193 - you're starting to lose me - I have no idea what all these initials mean but my dog is the only thing that will be in the boot for the next few years and she's under 40kg

I think I removed my details from the setup menu. Then held the power/on off button until the radio did a restart then reentered my details and it worked. Also I removed and re entered the sim details.

I know it's an old thread, however I just did my front discs and pads and was also surprised to find no pad wear sensor wiring! Not sure if it can be retro fitted as there are not wires. I checked to make use a previous person hid the connector behind the wheel arch liner and used non-sensor pads but no, nothing, nada! The ATE pads have the sensor built in so simply snipped the wires close to the pads, job done!

Just wanted to come back to say we had the shock absorber and top mount changed today and all is good. Perhaps that might help someone in the future trying to diagnose a similar sound, although to be fair it seems like a lot of things can make this type of sound! Well, if that's case, here's another thing to add to the list of potentials for you! Thanks for the responses and help.

Hello , you will need HEX-V2 or HEX-NET(adv functions) post 2019 models , to put it simply you can use your interface but for basic things but won't be able to access UDT for coding, that's my experience for what its worth my interface list Hex+can usb Hex-Net HN2 obdeleven vag ultimate ( For sale with a brand new 10" android tablet ) if anyone wants it Adrian

BMW Z1 had drop down doors. Only made for a couple of years from 1989. I guess the complexity and possible extra weight was a factor. Why go to all that expense as well when the humble hinge serves a purpose.

Older DPFs are known to be more resilient than later versions. My old Octavia was fine for regens but a colleagues one that is 4-5 years newer is always struggling to complete even when driven for long journeys. He's had it from 1 year old so really shouldn't be from the previous owner.

Arnold Clark Glasgow is correct!

I was going from your original statement that "I noticed today that when the other cars stationary at the traffic light, my car does not brake automatically" Which I read as "when I approach already stationary traffic but not following another car within ACC RADAR range then my vehicle does not stop" . This is correct. ACC will not bring you to a stop in this scenario and the handbook explicitly states that. If however the scenario is " When following another car (within range of the ACC radar) and I am using ACC and the car in front slows to a stop my vehicle does not brake" then that is a different kettle of fish and may be indicative of a fault scenario,

the dealer tells me - he now has a list of impacted chassis numbers and is going thru it to see if mines affected

Pretty sure winding in is clockwise. You should be able to tell pronto-ish though if going wrong way. You could back off ever so slightly....

You could check plug harness to mirror but I doubt the humidity sensor has anything to do with it. AFAIK the mirror camera is to do with High Beam Assist, Speed Sign recognition, Lane Asssist. The radar at front of vehicle will handle Front Assist and ACC....

Yeah, I see better now ... is the entire car that is spotless, compliments! 😜

That kills that theory then. I read on a Facebook group that someone had their Koroq delayed. When they asked the dealer the dealer stated there was a software issue on 1.5DSG's.

I have this installed on my NFL O3 and was plug and play for me on MIB2. But after 2 years it is not working anymore .... a few month ago sometimes the image was displayed distorted and in black and white and yesterday i think it just died ... display is all black. It worked perfectly until it did't

I was very surprised when I first drove the tsi engines. All the smaller ones were amazingly smooth and very quiet also fuel efficient.

Well the caliper slides back and forth freely on the guides, the bolts just hold the guide tubes square-on, parallel to piston movement. There's no side force on the guide tubes or bolts. The pad metalwork bears on the 'arms' of the wheel bearing housing, taking all the rotational forces.

Christ, I can see why you wanted to replace your brake dust covers now. Do you live near the sea like in the sea? 😂

Thank you for the link to this storage box, I am much obliged Silver 1011. I have tried this at my local Skoda dealer who had one in an Enyaq on the showroom floor, it was a 'close but, no cigar' fit - Hey ho! If you look at the picture above, the storage box has a lower ridge at the seating end which rises slightly higher, to the armrest/centre console end. I did go to parts department to enquire about getting the OEM part number but they didn't have it, might be a case of waiting for the latest incarnation to arrive at a dealership and go forward from there.

Like brand new

Spray-paints.pdf

Answers inline, italic font.

I upgraded mine. I disconnected it 😁

Welcome to the forum. It seems a bit of a stretch for the humidity sensor to be linked with front assist - but who can tell with all the control modules on a vehicle these days?

The drop links are so common an issue with Corsa's as is Main Dealerships getting in the wrong ones to do a repair.(Do they really not have any ever left in stock or do they just go through some many.) Replaced twice on the Corsa electric i had before it even had a MOT carried out, and they thought they were getting away with doing just one side under warranty.

Cheers all. Very solid discs on the rear - so must be the 272's.

I’ve got an identical tank on my GTI - one with ‘mit Silikat’ on. If there is a bag in yours, it’s very easy to find. You should be able to both see it with a good torch, and also feel it with your fingers. I oiked mine out as soon as the car was out of warranty. It was very easy to do and took moments. Having said that, I suspect you don’t have a bag in there. But it does look time for a coolant change IMO. Gaz

That's yuk. Generally coolant is every 5 years; the silicone bag was there to aide lubrication of the cooling system. If you can remove the silicone bag then great (there are three different designs out there). If not, it's a new bottle. If there is no record, get it flushed and get new coolant G12evo into the vehicle.

Took the car to the Skoda Owners Club event today. Still work in progress, but getting there.

This worked for me. Battery: 53% charge When I plugged the EV cable into the car, the white light at the charge port went off. Plugged the other end into Podpoint. Juggled the cables in/out etc and nothing was working. I popped the bonnet and pulled the fuse in position 3 (it’s marked as a ‘10’ amp fuse in the fuse box). 3 or 4 seconds later there was an audible ‘clunk’ somewhere in the engine compartment, then I put the fuse back in and tried the EV cable again. Worked first time.

Got to the bottom Of the issue , blown inline fuse on the harness supplied , but cable also faulty once new one arrives should be good to go

Great news! The controller was installed and hey ho! the care is running. They did not have to open up the gearbox which would have cost a pretty penny even if they found that it could not be repaired. As it happens the gearbox is fine and it was only the controller. Therefore it cost me all together about £300 and car is as good as new. I nearly scrapped it! It pays to have good relations with your local garage and the mechanics - they went an extra mile for me to find the controller and saved me fortune and even the car.

Going to tag @weyland here, as this point wasn't mentioned in his original fitting thread, and I think it's an important note for people who run their cables via the "up and over" route. No criticism of Weyland here, it's only just occurred to me that this is a potential safety issue. (Photo stolen from Weyland's original post.) Note the side airbags explosively emerge from the top, where we've run our cables, so BE SURE THE CABLE DOES NOT OBSTRUCT THE AIRBAGS. EDIT: Just checked mine and, yep, like a chimp, I'd run the wire front of the airbag directly where it would be trying to explosively expand into the car to protect the passengers. Wire now-re-routed safely out of the way of the side airbags. Note, the side airbags are quite large, and extend down the A-pillar behind the rigid plastic, though they are pulled out from behind it as they expand.

Nice guide, shame you didn't write it two days ago when I started fitting my camera As I did a few things differently, I'll add some extra info as it might help others. I used an OEM/original high camera from AiDU Auto on aliexpress. At time of writing they offered: - a highline kit for the MK3 Octavia at ~£75 - a highline kit with washer jet for a Tiguan also at ~£75 After a quick chat, they were happy to parameterise the Tiguan kit with an Octavia file so I bought the Tiguan kit. Given they were the same price/size/shape it seemed daft not to get the bonus washer jet Unfortunately, the washer jet pipe was slightly too short but I was able to remove the fittings on either end and use some PVC washer hose (4mm ID, 6mm OD) of the right length instead. I took a slightly different cable route, shown in yellow: Unlike the kit above, it's not 'plug and play' so you end up with a bunch of wires that need to be connected to the appropriate places. The cables are pre-terminated but as I already had the correct crimps, I cut them to length rather than having loads spare. Factory wiring diagram for the highline (PR-KA2) camera is as follows: The earth wire was shorter than the others so I used the earth point in the boot below the rear seatbelts: For power, I removed the fusebox and used fuse 18 as per a factory install: After trimming and terminating the wires, I ended up with this: - new wires highlighted in yellow - new connector tapping into the CAN-bus circled in light green For the CAN-bus connection, I de-pinned the original quadlock connecter and moved the two CAN-bus wires into a separate connector, this means I didn't need to cut or modify the original wiring to tap into the CAN-bus: The eagle eyed amongst you may notice I used a 5a fuse in slot 18. After a quick shopping trip, I've now replaced it with a 7.5a fuse as per the factory wiring diagram. Coding was super easy: - Address 19, add 6C to the installation list - Address 10, coding, tick byte 2 bit 4 - Address 5F, adaptions, change Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-VPS_0x0B to "activated" - Address 5F, adaptions, change Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-VPS_0x0B_msg_bus to "Infotainment data bus" All works just like a factory install with the various modes etc. As expected, the only error code currently stored is "no basic settings" so I'll need to print out a VAS6350 board and calibrate it at some point