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Seen in intermarche chateaulin car park Wednesday the new citroen 2CV or the Rolls runabout?

Those advisories/ fails/ passes could equally apply to a non EV owner.

+1 for anticipation - change up to highest gear possible while remaining sympathetic to engine, coast (in gear) avoid braking where possible and imagine there is an egg between your right foot and throttle.

A good fuel saving method is to try to drive without actually coming to a full stop (stop signs excepted) There are videos used in Midas training that show how. (No sound on them) Even though in some situations it almost appears to stop, the vehicle is still rolling. On roads in general if you don't drive on the bumper of the car in front you can save a good deal of fuel. Your focus has to be on the whole road ahead reacting to the traffic at the furthest point you can see. If you drop back you see more.

GWM (Great Wall Motors) - BMW MINI Electrics

@Stonekeeper I can see nothing wrong in those test reports, anything that was needing urgent attention was dealt with, the other advisories are not bad enough to warrant attention straight away and even at the next test, they may not be bad enough to need attention, or may not even get mentioned again as another tester might deem them as OK. I have experienced this myself, on my last car it was highlighted as having one of the front coil springs excessively corroded. My dealer looked at it and said it was a little bit of surface rust and did not need fixing. It was never mentioned on the next 2 subsequent tests.

Despite all the negative criticism of VW cars, it would appear that are making the most economical and efficient EV car?

You can't blame them really. Most garages do a free health check on the car, it's company policy. Yes there is some wear but they could last another year maybe 2 who knows. They don't know your annual mileage and driving style etc. so have to put anything down to let you know and cover their arses.

No need to use VCDS after disconnecting the battery, just drive the car for a few hundred yards.

So the Octavia seems to be starting to experience a failing battery. Not terrible but auto stop/start is not working (SoC never seeming to get above 60%). A quick test (EN A) - battery should be 680A EN. It's showing 435A EN. Not great. To replacements: I wanted to get hold of a OEM replacement Moll battery but they only exist in Germany/CZ). So the recommendation for replacement is a Bosch S4 E08 battery. Has anybody fitted one of these into their car? It looks (and measures) slightly larger than the OEM. Didn't want to order it and find it didn't fit!

Similarly, I had an "advisory" of "fuel tank straps corroded" in December one year. The testing garage kept the car over Christmas whilst awaiting a new light switch. The advisory did not recur when they retested the car after fitting the new switch, nor in any subsequent test. The tank straps were not replaced.

maybe a good deal. mileage a bit high for my taste but as long as the cabin filter has been changed sounds like a bargain?

^^^ Yep, what @dan245 said. Best thing would be to get rid…

Tesla model 3 Volvo EX30 BMWIX3 Polestar2 (volvo) Smart 1 (mercedes) Audi Q6 Don't Saic also make many cars for the Volkswagen group Geeley make Volvos , Mercedes smart cars and Polestar Tesla model 3 also China https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/will-your-next-car-be-made-in-china/

It's been a while, but I'm returning to Briskoda as I have a little more time on my hands. Quite a lot has happened since I was last here. We survived covid and I managed to catch it twice, once in Wakefield and the second time in Hamburg. My wife caught it once while I was working away in Stuggart 🤔. Unfortunately I lost two of my German colleagues from Aachen, one customer in the West Midlands and one neighbour. I retired at the end of last July, with the view of just selling spare parts from home. There was quite a backlash from customers, so I am doing a limited amount of travelling in the UK and consulting on the phone / email etc. My German colleagues don't seem to accept my retirement and I have have 3 visits to Germany to carry out training, 2 visits to Sweden to build a machine and service work and a week in Rhode Island to help them build a machine and train the operators how to use it. Lots of projects at home and I've no idea how I managed to find the time to go to work previously.🤔 I still have the 2019 Superb L&K combi My wife's 66 plate Fabia 3 sel combi has been passed onto one of our daughters and last October I bought the wife a 23 plate Kamiq 1.5 DSG sel exec in race blue. I hope you are all well and enjoying the hot June weather 🤭 Moley

Hi Pete, the thing was that the light was not on, ever, I checked the fuses, they are fine, I did then run my diagnostic kit and it came up with an historic error, right rear sensor, I cleared the error and the warning light comes on and goes out after a couple of seconds, just as it is supposed to. thanks for your help, case closed. Will

I noticed when I changed the shock absorbers that one of the front brake hoses was split I bought a set of braided hoses to replace them all, I've only changed the fronts so far because they are a pain to take apart with damaging the hard lines. I broke the passenger side one and had to make a new pipe, I'm glad it wasn't the drivers side because it would be a nightmare to replace I've also got a second hand full Mitlek system 3" sports cat 2.5" resonated cat back after a bit of cleaning and welding it was ready to fit. As you can see the downpipe is a lot bigger than the standard one Ive done a data log and I estimate 20+ftlb of torque and 10+hp, it certainly made boost for longer and the graphs make it look like 30ftlb and 30hp but I can't see it being that much and I'd prefer to be realistic about it, only a dyno could really say I wonder what difference an oversized turbo intake pipe, 80mm maf and big cone filter would make? I also poly bushed the front control arms but forgot to take any pictures, just had a pair of new eagle f1s on the front and the tracking done too If anyone has any intake parts they want to sell let me know

Yes, updating to a later firmware definitely helps. The process is glitchy though.

I work in IT so some of the marketing IT speak just doesn't wash. Making it better, should mean better for users not nicer code. Skoda is not unique for that problem. Skoda cars great, the garages are getting worse, the IT is worse still but most notably nothing is joined up. They are making themselves look incompetent, which is a shame given the cars are I think very good. Snatching defeat from the jaws of victory, comes to mind.

For me it was the 90s. I couldn't wait to start leaning in the late 90s. Interesting I always heard and learned growing up that the old cars and other were made to last, often would hear "they don't make them like they used to". Maybe it's the cars I knew of who knows. I agree though if you look after your car generally it will last a while at least. I can just imagine being around them during those times that would be something to Behold. Quiet amazing. I would have learned so much from them Yes that's true I agree. Some modern driving aids can go a bit too far and be worse too intrusive like lane keep. A lot of improvements though are good and make driving easier and safer. For me when i started lesrning with cars just having aids just basic ones if at all. From memory I learned to always drive "defensively" don't know if I'm referring it correctly. Basically to look out for others, and to drive to conditions. Also its important to note that people will make mistakes or non mistakes so it's important to drive in a way that sort of covers them. I've never had the experience with a car that has no electrical relays. How old was the car and others those must have been quiet old. It's a great video I have learned so much and will try to apply to my driving as much as possible even though with traffic and lights lane closures etc it can be a bit hard to drive exactly just like him. His drive is so ideal that he done. If I had that drive to work I'm sure I could get a lot better mileage. Though I'm sure now I can be even better. I must have missed the eco settings for the tyre pressure. Ok hmm maybe my psi is good being at 39 it has less resistance. Exactly ideal drive. Yes exactly I agree no major hills etc, just him and everything else you have mentioned too. Though at times you need and also want those electric elements on for various reasons i understand it affects the fuel economy but its no fun being overly frugal, you want to enjoy the drive too.

I believe that the type 096 is the maximum size that will fit the Octavia 3. Don't forget the adaptation.

From the video, it looks like you are spanking the car (foot flat to floor). It sounds like the clutch are trying not to cook themselves and I suspect a firmware update has been done on the DQ381 (to ease the speed of the gearbox to match the engine speed). I would agree that 80k miles/132k kilometres is too much between fluid changes. It might well be the adaptions still need to match up to your driving style (this can take a while). I would also recommend that you change the accelerator mode to Audi mode (linear) to stop the gearbox fighting with the logarithmic VW/Skoda profile.

Quite apart from the low weekly mileage causing extra DPF regens - I'd suggest getting the coolant fan thermostats tested for correct temperature operating range.

The "MySkoda" app has always seemed to work less well that the "MySkoda Essentials". With my Octavia, the MySkoda app can't even tell me if the doors are locked (it only notices if they are closed), whereas the "Essentials" can. Much of the data it provides is simply wrong: the car tells me that I have 3,000 miles left with AdBlue; the app says 1,864 and has said so for the past 5,000 miles. Sometimes I feel that they should be proscecuted under the Trades Descriptions Act for saying "one reliable place." At the moment the MySkoda app (iPhone) has an abysmal review level of only 1.8 / 5. (It manages a marginally better 3 / 5 on Google Play.) By contrast, the "Essentials" app has 4.1 on iPhone, 3.2 on Google Play. Whenever someone reviews it and points out its shortcomings, the Skoda response is almost always "Hello, we are very sorry that you are having difficulties with our app. Unfortunately, we cannot help you without a deeper analysis. So please contact us..." When I DID call them they weren't able to address any of the poijnts I made, but said that they "would take what I had said into consideration". Accessing the online owners' manual will be much less easy on an iPhone than on my desktop, but I suppose no one took such disadvantages into consideration when the VAG Group made the corporate decision fo ditch various apps and portals. The Skoda apps seem to be FAR inferior to the apps I see friends using (particularly people with Kia cars).

That's because he's a moron, the pulleys are sized to allow the different driven units to run at different speeds, simply removing the Aircon doesn't change the speed that the belt is running at since that's dictated by the crank pulley.

I said replace or gut....

Open your window to hear what those outside can hear. A Diesel.

@Jemm Yes you can lock yourself in the car and not have the alarm set when you want to sleep in the car. Try it. But your car was stolen, the locking and windows and key fobs or electrics are faulty as you have posted in various threads. Best get the car fixed properly. PS Please stop using the title Jemm for different threads. Or maybe keep the various car lock questions in the same thread.

@LuxoviaRS the video Stonekeeper put up covers it, though I'd disagree about the Eco setting for the tyres as the extra 5 psi tyre pressure on my wife's Fabia seems to give less rolling resistance (the car rolls along easier and further, noticeable with foot off accelerator) so foot can come of accelerator sooner, downside is harsher ride and less handling. He did have an unusual drive so about as good as it could be for economical fuel driving. If he had a dial to show the PS or horsepower needed or used at various points I'm sure you'd be surprised how low it would show on that journey with mild acceleration, no real steep and long rising slopes/uphills, very few electric items on, just the driver (as he said weight does make a difference for accelerating), aerodynamic as reasonably possible. You would be especially surprised at the figure at 50mph on the straight level road without accelerating, a very small fraction of what you have available.

I was thinking that for such a journey one would stop for at least 2 nights, so when you say that you are not spring chickens I can understand the 4 stops on your return to Wales. By the way, I have a friend who now lives in Brecon and he tells me that its a beautiful place to live and I'm sure you would agree. I have yet to plan a visit to Wales so I can get to see all the beautiful places and who knows I might just get to do that in a Skoda 😉.

I didn't start driving until the 1970s, I took my test as soon as I could when I was 17 in 1977 but I had to drive old bangers which were cars that were 10-15 years old, back then cars weren't as long lasting generally and unlike today where a 10-15 year old car can be pretty decent they weren't then, if you kept them a year or two more that was it. All the rear-wheel-drive cars had power steering, it was the accelerator pedal. 😁 You never noticed the steering was heavy because the cars were much lighter and had smaller, narrower (more sensible) wheels and tyres and generally large steering wheels - until it came to tight kerbside parking then you could build up a bit of a sweat if you'd fitted low-profile wide tyres like 185/70r13 on 5" wide wheels. The only tip my IAM mate gave me was to go on the high performance day as I already drove a car that he saw as high performance, I thought high performance was Fezza and Lambo, the other mate wasn't an instructor off the clock, and I'd known both well before, during and after them being instructors and how they both actually drive on the road. 🙂 On club events as a passenger I've been out on the normal roads sometimes showing track instructors, or one-time a magazine test driver, the route, these guys drive so smoothly you have to look at the speedo to realise the speed (all within the law) they could maneuver the car on the road, the test driver was so serene he seemed almost asleep and barely moved but out maneuvered the supercars (we didn't have hypercars in the club then), we were in an excellent handling British made car though. When you have been driving cars without driver aids and convenience applications for decades through all sorts of weather and conditions you learn to adapt more, without the safety devices and crash and crumple zones to avoid accidents more as they can hurt wallets, bodies and minds and thus you learn more about the need for driver maintenance of the vehicle. Until a couple of years ago I was driving a car that didn't even have electric relay switches let alone electronic drive aids, the model before didn't even have a cabin or boot light, parking wipers and headlight flasher were novelties 😄 - yet somehow I survive late last century and 2020s traffic easily.

https://dieselnet.com/tech/fuel_biodiesel_comp.php

I work for Renault and fitted a few to the captur, they usually go over the whole door and inside around the window. Plenty of silicone lube and you can do it without taking the door card and window out. I'd try and get a warranty claim out of it. If they cause damage get them to fix it.

Hi Genesis Which EV home charger do you have please? I'm with OE too and on the same tariff as you.

I'm not an iV owner myself so don't have these issues in any way but coincidently the Skoda Connect App has an option for when you open the app which says that when enabled it only wakes the car three times in a 24hr period to save battery on the vehicle...... Could this be a a cause of the issues you iV guys are having when using this Octopus Energy app/software maybe?

I would say go for a Mk4. I reckon they are a much nicer 'place to be' and more fuel efficient. The infotainment system gremlins are by and large fixed particularly with v1941 or 1969 which has sorted the repeated system restarts. Yes, there were a lot of issue with s/ware modules in earlier cars (2020/21) which ought to be fixed by now but have been told by a local dealer sales guy that there are some out there which haven't yet. If you do go for an early Mk4 vehicle I suggest going through a main dealer and ensure that all the fixes are applied and get assurance in writing that they'll do any which arise. Things to look out for include KPH/MPH settings (speedo & satnav), ACC thinking you're driving on the right (and preventing overtaking instead of undertaking), SOS module popping noise, road sign recognition reading as Km not miles), flickering fuel and temperature gauges. The early SE and SE First Edition cars had the smaller 8" infotainment screen, 'standard' cruise control and no SatNav so were not impacted by those issues. In fact, whilst mine was being investigated & fixed I had a 2020 SE FE on loan which was trouble free for the 8.5k miles I had it. During that time (5 months) I very nearly rejected my SEL FE to keep the loan car - very pleased I didn't as now it's fixed it is a lovely car.

Since it is a well known problem, you should insist on Skoda covering the cost of the part.

Why using and old part for a such crucial part? I also really doubt that you can find a used part since this is (most probably) a sensor that went bad. And the high cost is mostly because of the 4h labor and not because of the part itself.

I'm guessing that you don't have the TSI engine versions then. I used to get my 2011 Audi S4 MOT'd at the local Audi garage, basically as they would be in a better position to immediately or quickly get and replace any failed parts. That only worked until its second MOT from new, ie 2015 then I got advisories on a few front suspension bushes, which when I examined them, all looked to be in very good condition! So maybe 9.5 years later, I'm considering replacing a couple of these bushes, but I'm now using a VW Group Indie for MOTs and they have yet to pass out any advisories. I agree with AG Falco, nothing to bother about yet and I'm surprised that an honest MOT tester has passed comments on these bushes in that condition. I do intend to replace them on both sides on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI before its next MOT in August.

You don't need such an expensive dongle, go for an AliExpress one and you will be fine. I have being using this one (the usb stick format) since December and it is flawess https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eza2D8R The usb port shuts off shortly after you lock the car so no drain there

@LuxoviaRS, you have not bought a very economical car in the first place. It has useful performance, and it can be relatively economical in the right circumstances, but obviously not if you use the performance, and not particularly good in heavy traffic, but then again what is? Other than a hybrid or EV You have not said in what part of Australia you live. If the east coast, then you may have experienced a lot of rain and high humidity and, as I mentioned to the OP, running the aircon to control humidity will have a noticeable adverse effect on consumption (it runs the heating and cooling at the same time). None of the official consumption figures include running any other equipment, which I think is wrong. I have never used adaptive cruise control in a city environment. I'm sure it is very convenient, but I cannot think that it would actually be very economical in stop/start traffic, probably using a lot of low gears, a lot of relatively late braking and killing consumption. I think your best bet to test the car is run it on an open flat road in top gear at around 100kph and if the instantaneous consumption is somewhere around 6l/100 then your car is probably fine and your expectations for city driving a bit optimistic.

@Stonekeeper Exactly i know the car and driver. I would not touch with your bargepole. Maintenance. That is a Brake Fluid change @ 25,000 miles / 2 years and a look see, a pollen filter & MOT 2 months before it is 3 years old. Unless it does need brake pads, discs, wipers or tyres. It will not need tyres, they are in storage until it gets handed back. My last mobility cars had ridiculous prices quoted to me by Motability to buy, and i could have bought them at Auction for the money that dealers paid. The Alhambra i had for 3 years sold at Arnold Clark,s for a lot less than they paid, and they paid less than i offered Motability for it. But then again i know how it was used and abused and what a liability it was. PS I first bought Ex Motability cars when i was 18 years old, Mini Automatics 3 years old from a list, sight unseen, then Metro Automatics. 1 owner amputee automatics, sold by my mum back in those days. Automatic cars were scarce. As Supplying Dealers got the right to Buy Back and started doing Interest Free loans. (Arnold Clark) and others it got harder to get the better condition cars.

Have you tried removing any fuses? Nearly 2 weeks to see a dealer is a long time to be without your infotainment screen. I know in the past some people have had success with removing fuses for a few minutes and then replacing them. I can't remember which fuses people were removing, but I'm sure a search of the forum would point you in the right direction.

The comments are a bit harsh. Our 1.0 Fabia mc is is good to drive and the seats are very comfortable. My main complaints are with the electronic gizmos which seem more like prototypes to me and the price which is a bit on the high side. I couldn't care less about hard plastic trim and the size of cup holders. As john1952 points out the feel and appearance of steering wheel and gear lever is reassuring. There's lots that could be improved though which is surprising considering this is meant to be the last edition before electrification.

VW did the same thing, shutting down one app then providing a new one and guess what...... ......functions that you got for free now behind a pay wall. Welcome to the cloud, pay to play and share your data with the world at the same time. Take me back to happier times!

I did also in my R. Turned it to 0% in OBD11....

I upgraded mine. I disconnected it 😁

I meant to say in my post louder than 100% obviously, the volume can be adjusted somewhat in OBD11 or VCDS as you suggest. But I think the OP wants to make it much louder than even the 100% setting will allow. At least that is how I read it.

It took a while, but yes! The culprit was the soldering of the little circuit board that controls the wiper motor. The solder had cracked, causing a poor connection. Makes sense that temperature changes would affect it. Take a look at the attached photos, specifically the soldered tabs on the bottom right of the circuit board. Those two connect directly to the motor. See how different they look to the tabs at the top of the board? Took a quick bit of heat with a soldering iron and a little extra solder, and problem solved. It's a quick job as long as you have one of those generic trim removal kits. Just remove the trim from the inside of the boot lid, then the plastic cover from the wiper motor assembly (2 torx screws and 2 metal clips hold it on), and then the little cover over the circuit board comes off easily. Hope that works for your Fabia.