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A few from the local Res this evening............

Hi, I’m back on Briskoda after several years absence. I previously owned an Octavia which I ran for several years and was very pleased with it. (I was timoctav back then ) But the service I received from the garage (Sparshatts in Southampton) was abysmal and I ended up trading it in for a pre registered Volvo V40 which was the most unreliable car I ever owned! Moving the clock up to today and we needed a roomy comfortable car to transport grand children about, the Scala fitted the bill nicely. Nearly purchased a used one from the Škoda dealer in Newbury, but decided to look at one locally first. Went to Rich,one a Škoda in Southampton and was very impressed with the car, and talking to the sales manager whom8nformed me they were running a Škoda event and could do some keen deals on a new one, even though we are looking to buy low mileage used. So after some haggling ended up buying a stock Scala Monte Carlo 1.0 DSG in metallic grey with the convenience plus package. I was concerned that with a tiny 1.0 litre 3 cylinder engine the car would be under powered but we drove a Fabia with the same engine and ‘box and was very pleasantly surprised! collection Thursday 27th. Really looking forward to it as it will be replacing an arthritic 2018 Honda Jazz with a dreadful CVT gearbox!

Moo cow

This 'tool' is widely advertised on eBay/Amazon for around £7-upwards and the M14 x 1.50 version will be required. (Example advert here) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223480382915 (Also advertised on AliExpress for a couple of quid.) This link may be of interest (though the basic 'European' argument is incorrect.) https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/comments/qhlc51/why_do_european_cars_use_lug_bolts_rather_than/

It's called floppy disc syndrome. Remember when we all had 3.5 inch disc drives? Or even 5-inch drives if you're over 60!!! Then these were usurped by CD-rom players. Then the CD-rom players started to vanish. The same principle applies to car software and hardware systems...and be afraid! Anyone with a Skoda that is 6 or more years old and mostly "analogue" should hold on tight - they won't have to worry about whether the software company responsible for some parts of the system will still be in business in 5 years, or if other bits of software have been updated and are not compatible with the now-unsupported parts of the system. Life is grand when it is all working, but I fear that all vehicles from all makers could start to be real trouble in the next 5-10 years. The bigger marques like BMW, Mercedes, Tesla etc, probably less likely. But the rest? We shall have to wait and see... wikipic: By George Chernilevsky - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6963942

-- UPDATE -- I decided to disconnect the battery and clean the negative connector with sandpaper and alcohol, it was a little dark. That was 3 days ago, before doing this the car would turn the lights on and stall every day (once or twice a day). For the last 3 days I had zero problems, lets see if the problem was only a dirty connector!

Interesting thoughts, guys. Our experience was much the same as that of Skomaz. We live in a rural area. Very few used Kodiaqs available when we were shopping for one. Even fewer with towbars. And yes, I might be put off by a car that had a towbar fitted - partly because we wanted a DSG 4x4, and anything with a towbar might have given both those components a hard time, towing a big caravan, and partly because it might have been a poorly-fitted aftermarket one. It was a bit of a Catch 22 for us - try to find one with a towbar and risk it having been badly fitted and / or done loads of hard miles with a heavy trailer, or buy one without, and put up with the cost of retrofitting. We opted for the latter, but the whole "towbar prep" thing just adds unnecessary complication. If towbar prep is a £200 factory option, I bet there was never a single new Kodiaq sale that fell through, for the sake of £200. Just do it across the range and make an SUV that's fit for purpose!

Bookmark this website for future reference, save you another wasted journey. Saved me a few anyway. https://www.wheelfitment.eu/car/Skoda/Fabia (2021 - ).html

Egret reflection

my apologises about starting this new thread, few reasons to keep it separate: 1. Mk3 coding's thread is grown hugely and isn't easy search something in it. 2. FL codings has several differences. 3. coding procedure has been also changed - before do coding, must be opened bonnet and activated handbrake what have been tested on Mk3.FL MY23 280ps L&K 23.02.21 OK ** Scandinavian Daytime Running Lights 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptations -> Leuchte23SL HLC10: --> Lichtfunktion C 23: nicht aktiv -> Tagfahrlicht --> Dimmwert CD 23: 0 -> 100 --> Lichtfunktion C 24: nicht aktiv -> Tagfahrlicht --> Dimmwert CD 24: 0 -> 100 23.03.20 OK *- - Daytime Running Lights only with switch on ‘Auto’ *** Daytime Running Lights off with Handbrake *** Daytime Running Lights Setting available via Menu 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Aussenlicht_Front ---> Tagfahrlicht nur in Schalterstellung AUTO: not active -> active ---> Tagfahrlicht Dauerfahrlicht bei Handbremse abschalten: not active -> active ---> Tagfahrlicht Aktivierung durch BAP oder Bedienfolge moeglich: not active -> active 23.03.20 ok, Fogs added, headlights didn't gone *** Set Fogs Lights as Coming/Leaving Home Lights 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Aussenlicht_uebergreifend ---> Coming home Leuchten: Low beam -> Fog light ---> Coming-home Einschaltereignis: driver door -> ignition 23.03.20 OK ** High Beam Memory On 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Fernlicht_assistent ---> Fernlichtassistent Reset: active -> not active 23.03.20 NOK, + Foglight ERR - - Coding Eyelashes always on in the headlights 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Change (8)Leuchte17TFL R BLK ......... C17 to Daytime running lights -> Change (10)Leuchte17TFL R BLK ......... CD17 to 100 -> Change (8)Leuchte16BLK SLB ......... C16 to Daytime running lights -> Change (10)Leuchte16BLK SLB......... CD16 to 100 23.03.20 OK ** Comfort Blink Cycle 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Aussenlicht_Blinker ---> Komfortblinken Blinkzyklen: 3 -> 2 23.04.03 OK *** Tear Drop Wipe For Front Wipers 09 Central Electrics Subsystem: 48x LL 221122 Long coding 164DDD -> 1E4DFD -> Byte 0 Bit 3 "Adaptative Post/Tear Wiping Active" -> Byte 2 Bit 5 "Post/Tear Wiping Active" or Adaptation -> Front_wiper ---> Traenenwischen Front Status: not active -> active 23.03.20 OK ** Smoth Dimming / Brightening Internal Light 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Suchbeleuchtung_allgemein ---> KL58 Einschalten mit Rampe: not active -> active 23.05.09 OK * Dim Emergency Flasher Button on Dash 09 Central Electrics Adaptation -> Leuchte 35 LED Warnblinktaster C48 --> Dimmwert AB 15: 100 -> 55 23.03.28 OK *** Change Light threshold 09 Central Electrics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Light sensor ---> Helligkeitsgrenze_Licht_ausschalten: orig. 2200 lx -> 1200 lx ---> Daemmerungsgrenze_Hysterese_untergrenze: orig. 2200 lx -> 1200 lx ---> Helligkeitsgrenze_Licht__einschalten: orig. 1200 lx -> 800 lx ---> Daemmerungsgrenze, Hysterese_obergrenze: orig. 1200 lx -> 800 lx 23.05.09 OK *** Enable Autolock(based on speed) option in Car Settings 09 Central Electronics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> Menuesteuerung ZV Autolock-Unlock: not active -> Adjustable 23.04.20 OK *** Enable Fob with Car Running 09 Central Electronics Access Code 31347 Adaptation -> ZV allgemein(Access control) ---> Funk bei Klemm 15 ein: not active -> Active 23.05.09 OK *** Enable passive lock/unlock via door handle sensors (KESSY) with ignition on B7 - Access Startsystem Interface Long Coding 0F20000723 -> 1F20000723 or -> Terminal 15 characteristics of passive entry exit function orig. value: Function only allowed for terminal 15 off new value: Function only allowed for terminal 15 on or off 23.03.20 OK ** Enable Fan Level display on Climatronic Auto 08 Air Conditioning Long coding 11010004004411011005100D00109136 -> 11010004004411011005104D00109136 or -> Blower display in auto operation: Not activated -> activated 23.03.20 OK ** Retain Heated Seat Setting 08 Air Conditioning Long coding 11010004004411011005104D00109136 -> 11010004104411011005104D00109136 Adaptation or -> Retention of driver's seat heater level active for 10 minutes -> active -> Retention of frt.pass. seat heater level not active -> active 23.03.28 OK ** Heart-Beat light effect on Start Engine Button for Keyless B7 Access Startsystem Interface Access Code 20103 Adaptation -> DeveloperCoding: Search lights ---> ZAT_illumination_concept_mybeat_clamp58xt Not activated -> Activated ---> ZAT_illumination_modus_mybeat_clamp58xt Not activated -> Activated 23.02.21 OK *** add Simple Cruise Control 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long Coding 32057FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000066 -> 32057FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076 or -> Cruise Control Mode: --> Activated 23.03.27 OK *** Start-Stop prevent Engine start when Car in front moves 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Adaption --> Expanded restart function: On -> Off 23.03.27 OK *** Overtaking Right Prevention 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long coding 32057FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076 or -> Overtaking_right_prevention: activated -> Deactivated 23.04.19 ok, option added, but works only first of three *** add Tolerance for Predictive Adaptive Cruise Control 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long coding 32055FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728949D812481400680000000000000000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728979D812481400680000000000000000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728979D812481400680000000000010000076 or -> Tempolimitassistent_CarMenu: Not activated -> activated or -> zul_Regelabweichung_CarMenu: orig. Off Small (nothing) Medium (nothing) -> Large (off; low; medium; high) or -> pACC_Learning_drivers_offset: Deactivated -> activated 23.03.31 OK *** Minimize Lane Assist's Ping-Pong Effect A5 Driver Assistance Long coding 00020898116E4020089F10001030008001418000000000000000000000000000 -> 00020898116E4020889F18001030008001438000000000000000000000000000 or -> Point_of_intervention: early -> early_setting_over_menu -> HC_Warn_Intensity: No_Setting -> Setting_over_Menu -> Lane_assist_off_text: disabled -> enabled 23.04.11 OK *** Lane Assist automatic ON from 60kmh A5 Driver Assistance Long coding 00020898116E4020889F18001030008001438000000000000000000000000000 -> 00020898116E4020889F18001030008001238000000000000000000000000000 or -> Hc_variante: Variante_0 (? Off ?) -> Variante_1 (automatic, when 60kmh reached) orig. Variante_2 (manually, by button on Steering Wheel) Variante_3 - 7 (?????) 23.04.11 ? OK ? Emergency Assit mode, what is diff ? A5 Driver Assistance Long coding 00020898116E4020889F18001030008001238000000000000000000000000000 -> 00020898116E4020889F28001030008001238000000000000000000000000000 or -> Emergency_Assist: Not_coded orig. EA_Variant_1 (?????) -> EA_Variant_2 (?????) EA_Variant_3 (?????) EA_Variant_4 (?????) 23.05.20 OK *** Disable DSG coasting(sailing) function on Normal profile 19 Gateway module Long coding 0B0900047F285900AB1042DE980F00010001070000000000000000000000 -> 0B0900047F285900AB0042DE980F00010001070000000000000000000000 or -> FPA_function_freilauf_defaultON active -> not active ^^^ ? ok 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long coding 32055FD25DFFC728979D812481400680000000000010000076 -> 32055FD25DFFC728979D816481400680000000000010000076 or -> Sailing_function: not active -> no_predictive_sailing 23.03.27 OK ** Change Parking Assist Switch Off Speed 76 Parking Assistance Adaptation -> Switch-off speed for parking assist 15 km/h -> 10 km/h 23.03.01 OK ** Easy Entry driver 36 Driver Seat Long coding 0010000000000500018280808080000000008181000000D440 -> 0010000200000500018280808080000000008181000000D440 -> 001000020000050001C280808080000000008181000000D440 -> 001000020000150001C280808080000000008181000000D440 or --> Easy_Entry_front: not active -> active --> Easy_Entry_front_over_MMI: not active -> active --> EasyEntry_Enable_Passenger_over_DriverMMI: not active -> active 23.03.20 OK ** Easy Entry passenger 06 Passenger Seat Long coding 0010000000000500018280808080000000008181000000D400 -> 0010000200001500018280808080000000008181000000D400 -> 001000020000150001C280808080000000008181000000D400 -> 0010000200001500018280808080000000008181000000D400 or -> Easy_Entry_front: not active -> active -> Easy_entry_front_over_MMI: not active -> active -> EasyEntry_Enable_Passenger_over_DriverMMI: not active -> active 23.03.01 OK * Easy Entry options in Car Settings 5F Multimedia Security Access 20103 Adaptations Vehicle menu operation menu_display_seat_configuration Not activated -> activated menu_display_seat_configuration_over_threshold_high Not activated -> activated Vehicle function list BAP driver_seat_0x10 Not activated -> activated driver_seat_0x10_msg_bus Not activated -> Comfort data bus 23.03.20 OK * Date format 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C00080188634B1001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188634B1001000800600000 or -> Date: dd_mm_yy -> yy_mm_dd 23.03.20 OK * Refuel Quantity 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C000A0188634B1001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B1001000800600000 or -> Byte 10 Enable bit 4 23.04.03 OK ** ICE Warning threshold 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> outside_temperature ---> p_ice_warning_entry_temperature: 4 °C -> 2 °C ---> p_ice_warning_exit_temperature: 6 °C -> 3 °C 23.04.11 NOK, but it deactivates Start-Stop - Efficiency assist. 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B0001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B0001080800600000 or -> Efficiency assist.: No -> Yes 23.04.11 OK 23.05.20 reverted * Disable Exit Warning 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B1001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B0001000800600000 revert -> 05A50019FF8C000A0189734B1001000800600001 or -> Exit warning: Yes -> No 23.05.09 NOK * Disable Ignition On Warning 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Ignition active message, actuator Driver door(orig.) -> No display 23.05.09 OK * Dashboard Start Screen 17 Dashboard Long coding orig. 05A50019FF8C000A0188734B0001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A0189734B0001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018A734B1001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018B734B1001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018C734B1001000800600001 -> 05A50019FF8C000A018D734B1001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018E734B1001000800600001 05A50019FF8C000A018F734B1001000800600001 or -> Start screen: orig. Version 1 L&K Version 2 vRS Green Version 3 vRS Red Version 4 Scout Version 5 Škoda -> Version 6 Sport Line Version 7 Škoda Version 8 Škoda 23.05.09 ok * ??? 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Leaving_warning_delay - -> Leaving_warning_delay: orig. 1.6 s -> 3.0 s 23.06.08 ok * ??? 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Tubes illustration orig. Version 0 -> Version 1 23.06.08 NOK, err msg on dashboard "Vehicle is not secured against rolling away" * ??? 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Shift exit warning orig. Car exit warning -> Exit warning, VW commercial vehicles 23.06.14 ok * ??? 17 Dashboard Adaptation -> Acceleration display: orig. No -> Yes 23.04.15 OK ** Wheel circumference 1 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C000A0188734B0001000800600000 -> 05A50019FF8C000A0188734B0001000800600000 or -> Wheel circ.: Version 3 -> Version 2 23.03.20 OK ** Wheel circumference 2 17 Dashboard Long coding 05A5001AFF8C00080188634B1001000800600000 -> 05A5001AFF8C000A0188634B1001000800600001 or -> Wheel circumference 2: Version 1 -> Version 2 Unit 17 Dashboard Speedometer value offset on 100 km/h Wheel circumference Tire 235/45r18 circumference +0% Tire 225/55r17 circumference +1.5% First Second 1 1 -2 ? 2 1 +2 ? orig. 3 1 +4 +3 3 2 +1 0 2 2 0 ? 23.07.05 OK OBDEleven App -> Tailgate Sound orig. ON -> OFF 23.07.05 ? ? OBDEleven App -> Steering Wheel Heating Auto Mode orig. Manual control via Button -> Auto wheel temperature Explanation of remarks before titles: Stars - how useful for me ? - i can't notice improvement or changes NOK - doesn't work or adds err codings were made by First Gen OBDEleven https://forum.obdeleven.com/

Bit of tinkering today. Added to the job list. Sorted the rusty battery tray, fixed the light issues, found out that my aerial works, but I have no idea how to make it go back in. Started removing the door handles but with the battery removed I can’t put the windows up to get to the inside. So I spent some time trying to work out exactly where brake fluid is leaking from. Still working on that!

Mine has the front assist.

Your caliper really needs a strip down and clean up with seals replaced. Once the handbrake lever starts sticking that means that corrosion has started to build up inside and grip the lever axle. Most folk don't bother with stripping rear calipers though and just replace them as it's easier. In the meantime, you could try getting some loose oil into the caliper. Behind the handbrake lever there is a rubber dust cover, if you can get a small screwdriver to lift the cover. If you have a straw on the oil tin poke it in under the cover and apply plenty. If you don't have a straw, spray the oil on to your screwdriver and let it run down under the cover. Once you've got a good dose under the dust cover, work the lever back and fore and you should feel it free up. Keep applying oil and working the lever and you should get it reasonably free. Obviously this won't last that long but it might keep you from cooking your brake before you get a permanent fix. Hope that helps.

I have bought this loom for my superb 2023. But seems to be for all Vag group. PP-MQS 1.4 Match Adapter für Mercedes, Volkswagen 1 Meter Bought from ars24 Biggest improvement next to match amplifier and subwoofer was using a new filter for the tweeter and woofer. I bought this set and cut both wires to get -3db on tweeter range. GLADEN HG-CR-ONE Also fittedy sub in the PHEV hybrid bin. Just a small cut and it fits perfectly I am wiring the high power mode wire. But i have the mode enabled now for 3 months and no issues seen. On the videos of Ars he does say it is not needed due to thick cables being used by vag. So ses unnecessary, also I can't measure a real voltage drop on big bass tunes.

Had screen replaced to solve this issue (finally). Costly stuff without warranty, but very well known problem, so I'd expect Skoda to provide parts for free.

Alignment tool? What happened to just holding the wheel up and screwing a bolt in? 🤔

Car went in for an intermittent CEL (which went off the day before the visit), I mentioned the volume and showed the video, they said they’ll look into it, came back to collect car to be told there’s nothing wrong, nothing stored and charged £110 for a diagnostic fee. Fuming

If your budget can support it, recommend considering ACC instead of standard cruise.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Try flagging @ApertureS for this query, I'm pretty sure the retro-fitted parking sensors will operate through the existing infotainment system.

Both! depends on season

P|ss today. At 100% /112 miles. 74 miles later at 42%. Half nsl and slow, 36 miles to 1 hour, then motorway. Light rain. Into rush hour near Edinburgh airport so on to MFG as quick and easy. NOT. First never started, 2nd started and I went for a pee. Came back and it had stopped. Then my card canceled. Went on another, another card canceled. Locked in 5 times trying to start them. So after 30 mins in traffic I get to the podpoints. Credit on app. Paying 65 pence a kWh instead of 79 pence. Got bank cards clear. Topped up podpoint some more. Just as well I was 2 hours early and flight in will be near 1 hour late because it will take near 1 hour to get back to the airport. Where the rapids are still not working. Damn expensive 79 miles really. And next charge will be 37 pence a kWh in 90 miles which makes the overall cost OK. 20kWh £12.73 PodPoint. EDIT. Edinburgh park and ride rapid are back working.

As I have had my MK4 for three weeks now and already done a nice long run in it to Bordeaux here are my reflections on some of your points. I’d had a 2018 Mk3 non facelift L&K 190 ps dsg fwd which I’ve been very pleased with in the almost 6 years I’ve had it. I had a Peugeot 508sw hybrid before, nice car but too small for me. Before that a MK3 280ps 4x4. I wanted one last estate car before I eventually downsized, so I went for it. Probably the same for me. I’m guessing I might be one of the first in the uk to get one of these. I’ll try to feedback my experiences with it in case it’s useful for anyone thinking about getting one. I got mine on the 3rd June. Because I tow, I stuck with diesel. Not my thing First impressions are very good. The gadgetry is a leap on from the Mk3 although you could argue that the Mk3 was good anyway. Example: Self learning parking on the new car. I reversed in an S shape track into a corner of my driveway. Did not go for the parking package. The car asked if I wanted to save the manoeuvre for it to do itself next time. If I had known it could do that I would have, love a gadget Self regulating speed in response to reading traffic signs. Very useful I have found, although it also responds to road junctions, bit annoyingly, so have turned that off! CD player in glove box is gone. Apple car play + Android does it all now and I also believe the new car has its own registered SIM. Not had a CD player in a car for along tome so no problem No more tyre gel. Space saving wheel now. Floor is still at low height so retains maximum space. Space also gained in rear side of boot because the Canton amplifier etc which was there, now houses in the spare wheel. Never drive a car without a spare wheel on board. Only one umbrella this time, although both doors still have a recess. Yea noticed that perhaps two in the L&K, will get a second when I can, the empty pocket is annoying me. Power outlets (the old cig lighter sockets) are no longer permanently live. They come on with ignition. Never have a use for 12v sockets. As far as I can tell, the new car unlike the old, does not after a time, turn the ignition off on an unstarted engine. Never knew that. The ride and quietness is very good. The old one was great but it seems as if everything is soundproofed a bit more on this new car. I’d say though that the suspension on the old car was gentler. This is when comparing Comfort mode. Seems fine to me, I only ever have it set in comfort mode Both cars have 18” wheels. Me too The new car sits quite a lot higher at the back. Maybe all suspension settles and softens. I’m sure the old car was higher when new. Not noticed this. Infotainment. The satnav map on the new car, unlike the old, has no altitude reading. Yes saw that, why? Regardless, the map seems better and clearer overall although it still carries that trait where, if you expand the view, the text stays small. Cannot tell motorways from A roads, as they are all the same colour, will probably mostly use Waze with android Auto It’s a 7 speed as opposed to the old 6 speed. I’m getting the feeling that it’s longer legged as a result rather than closer geared. Traveled through France at a steady 130k and it seemed very relaxed. I tow an Eriba Triton caravan, and just like the Mk3 car, the Mk4 is a complete dream when towing and averages just over 35 mpg. The caravan is a small 950kg aluminium thing but the mpg is still pretty good. Just tow a small box trailer, but have not tried it yet. The co2 emissions are stated I think about 157 gm/km whereas the old car was about 132. Maybe the 4x4 has something to do with that. The quoted solo mpg is in the high 40’s as opposed to 54 on the old. Got 44 mpg in France fully loaded with stuff and three people, not bad for a petrol. Rear seat release from boot is new and it’s great. It was a £90 option on the MK3!, did get it but it was the only thing on the car that failed in four years! (cable problems) Seatbelts add security and tighten up when the new car reaches about 15 mph. Front seats move back when doors opened, makes exit easier I guess, a nice feature. Yes My problems. The doors will not lock and unlock at the handles unless you have already opened once with the key, they were fine. Settings keep changing for no apparent reason. Boot keeps trying to shut on you when you are loading and unloading. Apart from that everything is fine.

Hello Ben Could also go here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/ as it's audio related Gaz

Update . this part was the troublemaker . Its a cooler for recycled gasses.this part is one of the diesel system witch can cause that dpf is full too soon. btw… this service action will be pretty expensive … cooler 250€, cleaning dpf 100€, mechanic find out my rear DCC shock absorbers was tottaly leaked out so 2 new dcc shock absorber . Sweet life .

You've posted in the wrong forum, this for the site generally, you would be better looking or posting in the 'Skoda Rapid & Spaceback (2012 > )' forum (or a similar model forum). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/225-skoda-rapid-spaceback-2012/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. Ben. You've posted on the wrong forum this is for generally site forum help or instruction, you want the relevant Fabia section, you also help by giving more info about your model see my name plate below and often which infotainment you have but in this case you see thread(s) and posts on your question in the 'Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/

There must be a drain hole inside the air filter box, mine has but for sure it's not enough if the front of the car dives into water (big pothole or stagnant water).

That sounds brutal. Mine hasn't had any issues since I disconnected the battery... Hope you find an easy solution.

If the fault doesn't recur, treat it as a "ghost code".

After 3 months I got a reply from ECP/Bosch. According to Bosch its entirely my fault and nothing to do with them. Full of exaggeration, their reply is typically arrogant of Bosch. 1. The backing plates were not "totally corroded" but a small amount of surface rust on the non pad side of the plate where the piston pushes. Who's fault is that? 2. Not equally worn. False, they were more or less equally worn. What to expect at ~50% wear? In any case what relevance has that to a catastrophic friction pad detachment? 3. The car was and is in virtually daily use. The ATE discs were and continue to be clean and in excellent condition both sides I note no QA system certification is referenced Basically Bosch are saying 1. Hey, you should strip and clean your brakes every year and if theres a spot of rust anywhere just throw them away. 2. "Only" 4 - 5 years is way way longer than Bosch expect them to last. Change every year 3. Don't expect Bosch to accept constructive criticism or evidence because Bosch is a perfect German engineering company that never makes mistakes. Even if they are made in China by a sub contractor. Even if pads stick (due to excessive and wrong type of iron content and excessive porosity) that does not excuse a total pad detachment with no sign of tearing at the plate. It is simply, too little/wrong adhesive and/or incorrect preparation or assembly in the factory. I had similar arrogance from Worcester Bosch when submitting carefully observed and documented major software bugs with the top of the range boiler I foolishly bought from them. As well as the downright lies in their specifications, marketing and manuals. Their written reponse to my 6 page report which only came after months of chasing was obviously translated from german and was very demeaning and dismissive. The visiting Bosch service engineer simply shrugged his shoulders and said, "oh they all do that" and he couldn't comment further Apparently I am an idiot and 40 years designing and testing hardware firmware and writing software for industrial safety critical systems doesn't qualify me to criticise perfect Bosch engineering. Remembering a previous post where Bosch oil filters are being shipped with incorrect part numbers, my advice is to avoid any Bosch product. They are living on past reputation that no longer holds valid.

More knowledge and advice for you. The cars have a stupid bolt instead of stud arrangement this means fitting the wheel with the car on the ground can be a PITA (or back more accurately) so you need a bit more in the spare wheel kit that isn't provided to make the job easier. This is what some call a VW wheel alignment / fitting tool better than a single one is to buy a set of two. (Another example of German engineering "quality".

We have a Scala Monte Carlo and find the sports seats very comfortable. Strangely enough my wife hated the sports seats in my Golf GTI, she absolutely loves these for the support and comfort they give. Obviously, try them out first at a dealer.

Thanks for all the replies here. I actually went to collect a spare wheel for my Fabia mk4 on Saturday morning and found out, when I got there, that the 16 inch steel wheel I'd ordered had the wrong stud displacement. I'd bought a one which was advertised as a 16“ spare for an Octavia on eBay. The guy was super-helpful and friendly when I turned up to collect it and informed me that the Octavia stud pattern is 5x112mm hexagonally arranged, whereas for the smaller Fabia/Polo/Ibiza models you needed a 5x100mm arrangement of stud holes. He offered me a full refund and I felt it was worth a wasted trip out just to gain a bit of wisdom about hub stud arrangements. After reading this thread, in hindsight, I will look for a 15 inch steel wheel for my Fabia rather than seeking a 16 because, as has been mentioned, it doesn't have to be an exact match if it's only for driving a handful of miles in an emergency. Thanks to all who contributed. 👍

No spare fuses kept in the cars sorry. if you wanted to keep spares they use standard blade fuses and also mini blade fuses.

To add to number 3, you also need the new radar type as the old style won’t fit behind the new bumper. regarding 2, I think there may be wiring changes also to take into account

Amazing that these still are coming out of the woodwork. BP05 LOF https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3948881425339693/ Nice spec with ESP, xenons and satnav.

I'm afraid so - It is a well known issue, try a search on the forum for sticking clutch pedal.

You should be ashamed of such range, go electric and fret all the way there but not make it back, save the planet and set fire to Scotland. 🤣

Assuming brake/clutch fluid level is correct, failing slave or master cylinder.

I recently saw a possible 1000 miles from a full tank in my car. Once I knew it was possible I floored it back up to 70+ because life's boring going slow 😆

I would want to see that Skoda CZ or VW Germany accept that it is not as they designed and manufactured the system to work differently from before and not someone somewhere in the UK who has no technical or mechanical knowledge or education.

Yes, not the daft little screw!

Hi All, first time skoda owner!, well happy with the ease of working on them. well built.Saved this one from the scrappy, decided to turn her into a van. I fitted the roof bars and have a second hand template for sale at £50 delivered if anyone is interested.

I get what you are saying but when we were looking second hand there was very little to choose from in that was suitable, regardless, and even less with a towbar fitted (I recall maybe 2 or 3 vehicles on auto trader full stop) so for us going aftermarket was the only choice.

Back in the late-1980s/early-1990s I owned four VW Golf GTi cars in succession. All of these had alloy wheels with a steel spare-wheel as standard, except the last one (a 1.8 16-valve) had the skinny space-saver type. During a short trip to France, staying in a privately-owned gite located down a very rural narrow country farm track, I noticed on the Sunday that one of that car's rear tyres was flat. I put on the skinny spare-wheel and immediately realised that its overall diameter was significantly smaller than the standard alloy wheels as the car was now visibly lower on that rear corner. I next found that I couldn't drive down the farm track that had a prominent ridge in its centre. The gite's owner saw me looking disconsolately at the car and, when I explained the problem, said "I'll phone my son". The son came over and said "I'll phone my mechanic/blacksmith pal". He then drove me and the wheel with the punctured tyre to his mate's workshop who removed the tyre (a large metal staple was found in the tread) and carried out a very professional repair. I said "What do I owe you both?" and the reply was "It's midday, so you can just buy us a drink." Off to the local bar and, when I returned to the gite much later, I was well drunk (and my wife was not well pleased!) To guard against a repeat episode, I bought a wheel and tyre that matched the Golf's standard alloy wheels size-wise, but, although this fitted OK in the Golf's spare-wheel well, its width prevented the boot floor from closing down properly. When driving in the UK, I carried the skinny spare-wheel and when going abroad I carried the full size spare wheel. Of course, after that, I never had another puncture with that car.

Those rims are among the ugliest ever designed for this model, in my opinion. Being looks, is a subjective matter. When I was selecting options, I knew if my chosen car had that design, it would be something to change right away 🤪

Still a hard no here, particularly at the price. Feel like the clothing brands that used to buy a 50p polo top, add their logo and decide it was £80 now 😂

No technician carrying out regular servicing would look that closely, even if they take the wheel off (which in most instances they don't) even then I doubt you can pick up potential seperation by visual inspection. The car had its MOT 4 weeks earlier, the tester inspects the pads and discs pretty closely according to the rules (1.5 mm min pad thickness etc) I accept that if you live in Shetland you probably need to check your brakes more frequently, but even then, pad seperation should not be an issue unless you regularly drive off road / through water. Its a quality issue, specifically the use of "black steel" https://yijingbrakes.com/why-do-friction-materials-separate-from-the-backing-plates-and-how-can-i-avoid-it/ https://trade.mechanic.com.au/news/brake-pad-delamination-here-s-why-it-happens https://www.materialsperformance.com/articles/material-selection-design/2018/09/advanced-corrosion-rust-drive-brake-pad-failures

Make sure that you get to see the Bot who has been dealing with you in person, oh hang on................. 🤣 Neither ECP or Bosch give a flying **** so don't waste any more effort and angst on them. Like most companies with a good name they exploit it by licensing their name to be used by the lowest cost producers to convince pigeons to pay a premium price thinking they are getting a premium product, Bosch wont do it with their core products like power tools, they may be made in Malaysia but in a factory like one in Germany run to the same QC standards. I mean ask yourself have Bosch ever actually made brake pads and discs? Maybe ABS control systems but brake pads, I very much doubt it, but they will allow their name to be used to generate profits, ask yourself did Caterpillar one day say "hey guys lets make cheap shonky clothing!" ? Or did the Ford Motor Company say "I know, lets go into making the cheapest AA batteries to be sold in Poundland!" ? A lot of the tat that bears their name like the Ford batterie with the blue oval Ford logo are just the shonky merchants trying it on, Ford are not going to waste their time chasing them in a market so far removed from their own. I have been using Chinese brake discs for the last 20 years and they have always been great, I fitted them in place of the OE cheese rust magnets and they lasted the life of the car which in the case of the MK1 Octavia was another 16 years and 150000 miles, I would not pay the silly prices I see quoted on here for supposed name brands which in reality are usually the same products in different boxes. Brake pads are a different matter, all my vehicles have had the smaller brake discs and are really put to the test with my overloading antics, the cheap pads have been appalling, often the cheapest discs I can get come bundled with a cheap pad set, I am talking about circa €35 the axle set, I throw the pads away and buy branded ones (I cant for the life of me recall which ones I prefer, its been so long now) and they are invariably cheaper on the shelf from a local Norauto than from the net. Sorry to hear of your responses Xman but they are pretty much what I would expect. Ignore my flippant comments about the AI Bot, I can see now that you have had several exchanges with ECP, the end result is the same though, just wear the person down.