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We were a bit late getting out tonight.................

Unfortunately, the sportline has gone back to 19 inch wheels - would much prefer yours/18” but unfortunately don’t have any choice if I wish to continue with the order

Thanks so much for all your responses, very helpful in many ways. The Cardboard technique as suggested is very interesting, I would try that out. It's amazing to find wonderful people here trying to help out. Thanks very much again. Have a great day!

Little drive out to Liverpool last weekend to the Ultimate Show, great event and car looked spot on i think

What worries me slightly about this whole thread so far (Pages 1-4) - seems to be the lack of either a compression or relative compression test having being done on any of these engines. As the 1.4 is a direct injection, the valves do seem to get covered up in crud more often. So - thinking about this logically; I think first of all; the ECM is slightly crying wolf re: misfires. A lot of the misfires and misfire counters were reading single digit misfire counters. That's probably an overly sensitive piece of software at play here. Second; if you start getting errors on multiple cylinders from nowhere, that means you've got a problem with either fuel/fuel pressure. The likelihood of multiple coil packs failing all at once is vanishingly small. Third; some of those pictures of the valves look horrible. Assume those are exhaust valve pics as opposed to intake. I also saw a picture of one of the the injectors. Anyhow, one of the posters said that his mechanic said take the car on a high-speed brisk run; problem went away for a week or two, then came back. Its an issue; people want to save fuel and running costs think that by running engines kindly, it will save their fuel costs/costs of running the car etc. This does not apply in VAG world. Every single VAG engine I've ever seen/owned as always benefited from being driven hard. Its the German way.... I would run several tanks of Super Unleaded through these cars engines as a first port of call to try clean up the EGR/valves and add some weights to your right feet. That means hard acceleration and progressive braking at least once a week. If your car is only used for short/in-town journeys, take it on some fast roads and keep it going for at least 100miles. Do this at least once a month.

Yes (although early in the morning) it's the same trick as the Seat one I linked to which restarted this all off on the SeatCupra forum. Basically the units is hardwired via the software to the release as defined by the parameters that are given on the original card for PartNumber1="original field here" PartNumber="original field here" You edit in that original field for the two parameters and hack about the maps to fit 8gb original card or buy the newer mib2 card, 16gb to avoid the hacking but you still need to do the field edit. Back in 2016 or so people were hacking around these fields on Seat cars without mapcare that they never had, a small proportion got it to work but we never got down to the bottom of how they did it. Then the scent went dead. It must be newer firmware at the time and getting that edit correct. For Skoda if they had mapcare on them for life which I assume they did on the units, life must have died as far as using the newer files but the edit restores it. Those seriel numbers must be a predefined range of allowed up dates. Go out of that range and it can't be done but edit in the original parameters and you are fine. That edit would be new to Skoda users but not to a small band of diehard Seat users that never had mapcare. For UK people you can get the TMC working again as well with vcds / Obdeleven by just changing the tmc group from 15 to 14 (thats the mib2 high edit that works for mib1 standard and mib1 highs). We also established that if you haven't done it. That gets the car working with 2023 maps and TMC as delivered. This forum led with that one. I asked mib1 users whether that edit worked. Only for mib1 standard / high (Amer whats it and Columbus units), mib2 standard and it's editing the card and files and old maps. That's elsewhere on the board here.

@Heisnam As @Berisford says, although what @Warrior193 suggests does make sense. In this case most people would notice and ascribe the incorrect gear selection to driver error though.

Reverse gear on a M6 gearbox is left from neutral, through the gate stop, then forward (same direction as 1st gear position) therefore is possible that OP is pressing down on stick and actually selecting reverse instead of first. Or the reverse gate stop is faulty and is allowing stick to be pushed straight across into reverse gate without first having to press down on stick. Suggest selecting all gears in turn to check that reverse gate stop functions correctly.

Likewise That's not my experience. The DQ200 in our Polo GTI is a peach, and just as quick as the DQ250 in our Golf GTI in terms of reaction times. I know plenty have their problems, and I'd still choose a DQ250 over a DQ200, but they're not all bad. Not gloating, it's just the three DQ200's I've known for years have all been good. Gaz

I find it impossible to accept that a manual gearbox could behave as this one allegedly does……?

My Fabia VRs is 19 years old and I noticed that the glow plug loom is missing most of the insulation so thought I'd change it - splice in a new one. I'm an electrical engineer so no worries there What I did want to ask is glow plugs. Mine are original, never been out. So I thought while I was there I would inspect and check them and see if they could even be removed. Well I did it, but one was a close thing with lots of creaking and an hour of sweat and Plus Gas and back and forward. I think another winter and it would be stuck solid. All plugs were perfect electrically so I polished them and replaced (with a dash of anti-seize). So what about your cars. Leave alone or did you remove - and if so how many miles did they last? Did they come out willingly? Honestly I'm impressed mine are still perfect working order - just the loom is bare metal!

Zapmap has been hopeless for accuracy, but so is Electroverse. INSTAVOLT and others are ripping off then. 85 pence. GeniePoint 85 pence. Osprey 79 pence at Starbucks, & 85 pence someplaces . Fastned 85 pence all as shown on Shell Reach App for Dundee. Evyve 75 pence. Highland Council Chargers Scotland 70 pence. BP Pulse 150 kW 83 Pence. BP App. MFG 79 pence. SSE Dundee 69 pence. When talking average price Rapid and Ultra-rapid no idea why he mentions prices that he did there which are for 'Fast chargers' SLOW 7 / 11 kW AC. Shell Recharge 7-22 kW AC 75 - 79 pence. (But these people get Shell Recharge Cars for Business use, even with a PHEV.) Roaming. Up to as much as 93 pence.

My MK3 has led from factory

Long pockets, short arms and fat fingers. Never spend your own money when other people will just give you stuff!

As i posted last week, we are paying for the Royal Cars to be converted to run on Bio- Fuel. Expensive conversion and fuel. KC3 as Charles the Prince of Wales has had a Tesla loaned by Elon Musks brother for years and that was at Dunfries House. Elons brother doing business with the now KC3 for Wine. Then KC3 has already been using an Audi EV as has his son and Heir. Keep the Heritage Connection, that could have been any EV from a German owned company so a Rolls Royce or Bentley BEV.

King Charles is going green... King Charles' Bentleys will undergo a green makeover | Regit

Thanks for only quoting part of my post. Read the next sentence: you won’t go the same distance on the overrun (ie in gear) as you will coasting, because of engine braking. So to go the same distance, ie lifting off say at the one bar distance sign, and coming to a stop as you leave a motorway, you’ll need to feed fuel in - at greater revs than tick over. However, I’ve made my point, accept it or not, and I refer you to my sig below

Zooming in on the check list - Exterior 43 "Check body for damage and signs of apparent repairs". Would it be reasonable for them to recognise a bonnet respray under that check ?

Yes, it doesn't take a genius to work out that if you coast the same distance as you would while being in a gear you are in a worse position economy wise. To really benefit from coasting you need to have economy in mind when driving, appreciating and understanding lifting off the throttle as early as possible and rolling further than you would with engine breaking to counteract the fact then when you are coasting you are using fuel idling. This is not a lot of people, so IMO most people are using more fuel than they would without coasting. Granted, I don't think its a noticeable difference given the variables when driving. At the end of the day its just something to make the car appear more economical on paper. As for causing wear, automatic gearboxes can't read your mind or the road conditions and especially when equipped with the smaller engines they change gear like crazy compared to if you are driving a manual so I don't think there is a need to worry.

Gone are the days of vacuum fuel starvation. My Mums Ford Prefect 105E (81MPJ!) regularly had that issue on loner journeys in the summer. On one occasion when we’d had to stop as the engine was hunting like crazy and finally stalled, a passing RAC patrolman on his bike stopped and asked we were OK. Mum explained that unfortunately we weren’t members and he said don’t worry about that. He asked what the problem was and Mum explained what had happened, and the patrolman walked to the back of the car. He then opened the petrol cap and with a huge rushing of air and a bang as the tank returned to its correct shape, the problem was solved. Mum now made sure she’d vented the tank at the start of any longer drive she undertook.

Well I for one like it. An earlier post suggested that fuel economy is worse when coasting, presumably as the engine is ticking over, whereas if left in drive the engine shuts off. The trouble with the engine shutting off is that you get engine braking, so if left, the car will come to a halt much sooner. So to hit the same stopping point as when coasting, you have to feed more fuel in. I find this particularly when leaving a motorway. So I don’t think it’s a valid argument. Looking back years, my Dad had a manual two-stroke SAAB 92, which had freewheel/coast in top gear, (OK, it was a two stroke, so it was probably a good idea, even a safety feature!) as did my 1987 Vauxhall Carlton 2ltr Auto. So it’s by no means a new feature. Q. Is it OK to freewheel on a pushbike, or should you have fixed wheel, and keep pedalling, using pedal pressure to aid braking?

Thanks to everyone for the useful information. I've decided not to go for the PHEV in the end but have tried a late 23 demonstrator (<1000 miles) 1.5 e-TEC SE L. This has the optons I wanted on it and the dealer will take my current car (which has a lot of cosmetic damage and is coming up for maintenance and MoT shortly) at a "tolerable" price for a no hassle changeover, so that's what I'm going for.

Nope nothing behind it, the gap is there so you can get your fingers in to remove it. I can honestly say I’ve used used them other than seeing what they did You can remove the compartment door if you want, just lift it up and it’ll be the same as in the picture but in mine I have high viz jackets I think

Was just out walking the dog and walked past a Cupra Born parked outside someone’s house and noticed they had covered the infotainment and surrounding area with a grey microfibre drying towel/cloth that you use when washing your car. I’m assuming it was to keep the sun off it in the summer weather whilst parked up to try and combat heat related issues and actually blended in quite well with the colour of it and wondered if anyone else had tried this trick during the summer months?

The Canton Subwoofer is behind mine & the two of the plastic / velcro gadgets are stored behind the panel "mines a hatch BTW"

You should have that on the other side too, the bottom is Velcro then what you do is put something in the boot which you want to stay where it is then box it in with those plastic things and it’ll stay. Wont work for you as you’ve got a rubber floor so redundant basically

On mine with the factory camera, that left section is slightly transparent but actually only stays on for a second or so and then slides to the left out of the way showing the full camera view. I don't think there is a setting but there could be that controls this if you dive into the settings menu. Edit: picture of what mine looks like.

2.0 TDI

Unfortunately Skoda UK can shorten the interval as much as they want. Until they include the removal of the pump and cleaning of the gauze filter in their workshop manual instructions, more frequent oil changes will be of little or no benefit.

This is where she is driving if you want to have a visit to this road. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/252376-fettercairn-to-banchory-over-the-cairn-o-mount

More an idealised plan of action rather than probably what will happen. At least I won't now have to do a wheel swap for 2 years. Following this service and recent Aircon regassing, I had to go to Bristol yesterday and return same day. Decided to try an economy run and set the ACC to 65mph (actual say 63mph) rather than my usual 73mph (bang on the speed limit). 80% into the journey I was getting the magic 60mpg but arriving at the destination after driving through the city centre this had gone down to 59mpg..... schucks! The display showed more naturally and I've deducted the 4% optimistic overread in my figures. I was there for maybe 1.5hrs so on the return Amundsen hadn't reset the MPG reading. The return journey not quite as good so when I got home the MPG for the whole day was 57mpg. Other things were in my favour, as there are quite a few slow 50mph stretches on the M25 / M4 and it was hot, which previous discussions here indicate is good for economy - av 27*C going out & 29*C on return. However some heavy traffic with stop start on the M25 and worse coming back will have dented the figures a little. Generally on previous trips I've been getting 48-50mpg, but with the amount of mileage I do these days driving 7mph slower isn't actually a huge cost saving, but I do find driving at that lower speed a bit more relaxing on a long journey, even if adding an extra 10-15mins to the trip each way. Aircon set at 20*C and fan position 3, it coped well throughout the day - it got upto 32*C outside at one point - there has been criticism of the A/C here in the past. Regarding ACC there were quite a few opportunities to test out my theory on its behaviour driving in heavy traffic on motorways. If doing above 50mph travelling in a slow lane, but adjacent lane 'overtaking' is actually travelling slower than me, ACC slows the car to the speed of that adjacent lane. However I had several instances yesterday when travelling below 50 but adjacent lane to right was even slower, ACC allowed me to continue undertaking faster without me needing to override it on the throttle. Pretty sure it did this every time below 50. Quite a good feature, but not seen it in the manual nor written anywhere.

Reed bunting

Check for broken wires between passenger front door and A-pillar connectors, also check for corrosion of connector contacts, especially if the rubber boot doesn't seem to be sealing well against the paintwork before you start work. The central area of the instrument cluster has a 'maxidot' information display on some models, but most just have a few warning lights in that area.

Yes I recall something similar and replied to the poster. Just looked back it was a mid June post with Skoda 2020 gear control issue in the title. I m not familiar with the gear pattern on the manual but if reverse is to the left of first then it would be possible to select reverse instead of first if the linkage is worn. I would be tempted to park up to a cardboard box and then experiment to see if the right gear is selected. Also switch the parking assist off and see what happens.

Doesn't happen on our Karoq. What does happen is that the reversing sensors etc occasionally still sound even if first gear is engaged but they switch off once the car starts moving forward

You mean the LCD screen? Given that it's 20 years old it could well need replacing.

Is this a repeat post - I’ve seen this somewhere else recently?

It was more important SWMBO was happy!! 🤣

Black interior, default 18” Belatrix anthracite alloys (much nicer looking than silver ones IMHO), Pebble Silver paint for me.

I finally managed to view and test drive an L&K at the local dealer yesterday. Very nice car. The odd shaped driver display didn’t bother me at all, with the seat and steering wheel positions adjusted to my preference the steering wheel perfectly masked out the sticky-out bits without interfering with the displayed data. I was pleased to find that my iPhone 15 Pro Max complete in its skin case fitted easily into the charging box and charged with no problem. So, I negotiated a deal and placed an order for a Superb L&K 2.0 TDi 4x4 hatch and added the HUD option, they quoted a 12wk lead time…

On all, but the lowest spec of the models they have "tow bar preparation" included. This is probably the reason for it. It just looks like a premade hole for the tow bar.

I have the 2l. Diesel automatic estate. Standard servicing oil filter, air filter, fuel filter and cabin filter are all very easy to acess and work on. The DSG service is best left to a professional with a lift and the required equipment.

2nd UPDATE: Looking at the date stamp on the negative post 28 15, I think this means the 28th week of 2015. So it’s likely that it was the original battery fitted in mid 2015, so on reflection it had done quite well with 9years and 90,000 miles under its belt. New battery is fitted and the car is running smooth and all seems well. So fingers crossed that might be it for battery issues and judders for now 🤞 I’ll update if issues return

If you're not keeping the car for the next change of spark plugs and you have to buy the tools now it might be more economical sense, less PITA hassle, to pay the Dealership to change the plugs (don't forget the engine air filter element) at the next service. Or if you still want to go DIY then you can make or use other bits as pullers, metal wire, cable-ties, bent, shaped metal. You may find an end plug more of a pain so want an appropriate grease/lubricant to make replacement and next extractions easier next time. Changing the spark plugs on a Mk3 has been covered before in this forum with details, photos (video?) previously so you can find lots of info here, or a Google search will probably bring you back to the forum.

My 2019 1.5 TSI DSG is my first non-manual car. With this technical soul of mine, I can only be amazed by the smoothness of DSG gear shifting. My only grievance is the inability to jump briskly in a fast moving traffic gap, except by launching, which seems pretty extreme. When normally starting from standstill, DSG engages the clutch far before the revs reach the turbo boost threshold.

That's strange, but new parts can be bad too! It can cause a major headache when you think you have ruled something out and the new part is at fault.

I used to have hub-centric spacers before when I had the factory rims, but not anymore since I got my aftermarket rims. With the aftermarket rims the wider rim and offset combo make it sit almost the same as I had with the spacers. Before Spacers:- 12mm front, 10mm rear Rims:- Factory 19x8 ET44 Tyres:- 245/40/19 Now Spacers:- None Rims:- Rotiform 19x8.5 ET35 Tyres:- 245/40/19

Welcome to the club Only thing i would say is if your have DSG, get it serviced! Front brake calipers and rear shocks have been a bit of a bind for me also but worth changing if they are old.

Just think how much better your on road handling will be with 60mm! 🙄 A couple of bags of cement in the roof box will make it handle like a Formula 1 car! Your rear bump stops are deteriorated and turning to dust but they would not do any good now as the vehicle will become coilbound before they could have any affect, a serious safety issue and should be addressed, you may be able to fit new ones together with 60mm cut down sections of the old ones. It takes me back to fitting Jack-Up bars to the rear spring hangers of my MK2 Tincorner and then finding that both rear shock absorbers had sheared off at the top with the suspension on full rebound when I was trying to emulate the Dukes of Hazzard, - YEEHAAAH!

Well, time for an update 😉 Everything works now! Thanks to varroom, I also updated to 0324 with a sidestep to 0308 (0306 —> 0308). The main problem I had, was updating the OCU. Somehow, it went wrong and the parameters could not be updated automatically. Long story short: fried it 😉 they replaced it and now everything works as it should. Long story short: I you are on 0278 already, updating is a straight proces. No need for odis stuff etc. If you are on 0156, a lot more coming on your way. - Need to update parameters via odis for infotainment and ocu - try to find a friendly person on a dealership who want to give to the activationcodes on the excel sheet for the predictive navigation so you can activate the FEC in odis (according tpi) - You need a good vci… - Have to build up odis knowledge when you don’t have it (not hard but very less info or youtubes online..) - Odis online required Should I do it again? Yes, the system is more responsive, new screens, working apps (news, weather —> not relevant but now they work). Quick startup. The infotainment of my car works now like I expected when I buy such a car… Some notes: Somehow dealerships are not familiar with this stuff. If it aint broken, don’t fix it. Most of the time they hold the power button to reset the unit 😉 They aren’t aware of new updates, it’s not a proces on maintenance etc. Besides that, I can’t remove my above post: it was a result from a chinese VCI clone, avoid it 😉