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Trying to reconcile all our cars right now. Current thinking is that we could replace the Jimny and and countryman with something like a Scooby Outback or forrester. That'll load lug and be comfy enough to go on holiday (slowly) plus do my winter days in the field. Then we'd freed up to get somethign silly with 4 seats. Maybe that M5 comp I've hankered after or an M4 etc. Remover the need for a big boot and the choices open out. But I have stated no hybrid, no electric. I think this is probably the last chance to get someting big and oily

Is this a diesel or petrol? Strongly suggest getting the cylinder compressions tested. At an estimated oil use of 9 litres in 1000 miles, that engine should be smoking like an old T72 - or dropping oil like the Torrey Canyon!

I just did mine in 2.0 Diesel DQ381, it took the best part of 7 litres. Main Dealer oil this time.

ANPR/surveillance

Really appreciate the advice, CA said I have a case and ran it through with me, I'll send the dealer a letter recorded delivery tomorrow after hopefully getting the issue diagnosed. Then I need to get a few quotes and wait for them to reply. If they don't engage I can take it through small claims court. Felt quite knocked down by it all earlier but thanks to this and the CA, now a lot better because I know where I stand. Thanks again.

Were you advised of excessive oil use at time of sale? My understanding is that original seller is still responsible regardless of 3rd party warranty. If both warranty provider 😒 and dealer refuse to accept fault, my suggestion is to take it up with Consumer Advice.

Actual manufacturer ID is not critical, fleece is the term VW use for AGM. New serial number can simply be a one digit increment of previous number entered.

I broke a rear wheel on the 520d Touring and got it welded till I could get a new one. Nice, £250.

Mine had reflectors on the rear doors as well - I did the wiring so I could put actual door lights, like the front. U can read about the discussion I wrote many years ago here.

Glorious again this evening...........

Good news for people wanting a channel for a cable in Bolton. "While installation of this kind would normally require home owners to pay for a £565 street works permit, Bolton Council is waiving the fee for a temporary trial basis. The council said they must be notified of any installation and is urging those wishing to install cabling to use reputable contractors only." https://www.theboltonnews.co.uk/news/24487452.bolton-council-waive-fee-encourage-electric-cars/

It's in the shop & app. But if you've got a smartphone with either Waze, Apple/Google maps on it, it's pretty superfluous. I've tried it a few times and its screwed up and made me later than if I'd used my local route knowledge, which is pretty extensive. Alternatively enter your cars VIN at the Skoda update portal: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

You really are just searching in the dark without being able to actually check what the system pressure is doing, both on the suction side(low) and the discharge side(high), these systems are designed to get "critically charged" and so will not tolerate overcharging - especially in hot weather. Checking with a fridge manifold set is best, but checking what the system pressure sensor thinks is going on by using a scan tool like VCDS etc is also useful.

I know you didn’t reply to me, but as the original poster of the issue. I have had both ecu updated (twice) and a dpf, EGR deleted and the problem still persists, I have now resorted to replacing sensors to see if that fixes it.

That image shows the scuttle area tucked underneath the windscreen where the ECU is on many of our vehicles, you can see the windscreen wiper spindle, the bellcrank and linkage arm on the right.

OP's mention of 138 bhp suggests 2.0 TDI, which would have the DQ250 wet clutch 'box.

Thank you it is the 85hp variant it started a bit before the new parts where fitted, i have had it for about 4-5 years now. The air filter fitted is Bosch aswell as the oil & carbon cabin filter the oil used is valvoline 5w30 c3. I always use 98 octane this is the highest in my country. It like shakes a little and then starts it does not always do it. But im a bit concerned about it, the car also had a broken pcv which i replaced there is sum oil around it but it doesn’t leak oil anymore and this happened 4 months before this started happening so i dont think it has anything todo with oil on some parts.

Hey Guys, Just thought I would post an update on the EA888 Gen3b engines. I have a VW tiguan 2021 with the Ea888 gen3b 190HP version. I know people are scared to tune this beyond stage 1 due to the high-compression nature of this engine, but it is possible. Provided your tuner knows what he is doing. Obviously it might run down the life of the engine, but I am okay with it as I like to enjoy my cars when I have them. Speaking to my local tuner in India, Hyderabad, he mentioned that he did tune a previous Q2 with the same engine to 380HP. All it needed upgraded was a downpipe, IS38 turbo, intercooler, Plugs, coil packs TCU tune and ECU tune. So I pulled the plug and got mine done. It is all good and running fine after the tune and he claims he should be pushing around 350-360 Hp and over the next few weeks we plan on bumping up the boost slowly to achieve 380+ HP if possible. Now to the car itself. The fastest car I ever drove setting aside supercars on hire is my daily drive EQC400 which is pretty quick with a 0-100 time of 5 seconds. My tiguan now is definitely pushing way above that and it keeps on pulling all way up in the rev range to 200 KMPH. it is a blast to drive and quite scary the way it pulls when the boost kicks in. It is running a 95 ron map. Testing the possibilities of doing a 100ron map which should ideally give more power and torque. I saw this video where a tuner successfully tuned it and got 390 hp out of this engine. This gave me some confidence along with my tuner stating that he has done it before.

Doing that now. The terms and conditions of sale from the dealer say that everything then goes to the warranty provider and "cant (sic) be claimed back from the dealer" but nowhere in the terms does it state that the engine has been checked etc. or excuse issues with it, it just talks about the electrics. Funnily enough Citizen's Advice just hung up on me. I don't think their terms and conditions stand up to scrutiny.

Thé week spot of the DQ200 is its clutches. Mine only survived for the last 150.000 km's (and counting) because it has improved (after market) software and it was not overloaded with torque (kept it at stock 250 Nm). I would never recommend to strain it with a higher torque than the specified max of 250 Nm. Further agreed with @Ootohere: Topic starter @led57 should start by telling us what engine his Superb has...

I believe the oil alone is/was £120 or so There is an excellent guide on here somewhere, when I saw it I thought to myself “yeah I’ll leave it to those who know..”

Unless you were explicitly informed of an oil consumption issue with this car then by my reading of the OP, the Sale of Goods Acts will apply, and the vendor must repair the fault or reimburse you in full. Don't take my word for it, talk to your local Citizens' Advice.

As it's part of the fuel system, I really would leave it to an expert to replace. But that might just be me. As for cost, I'd suspect an hour/90 minutes or so of labour, which would leave the part being somewhere in the £30-40+VAT region. I guess you have 3 options... 1) get it replaced, 2) hope the light doesn't come back on before selling the car, and don't mention it to the buyer, or 3) be honest and upfront when selling the car. Given the relatively low cost of sorting the problem out, personally I'd just get it done (again, as it's part of the fuel system, it'd be a no-brainer to me).

Probably the starter motor in the case or the solanoid that operates the starter. Get a code scan do to confirm.

Hi, I'm cat. I've just bought a 1997 skoda felicia pickup which is still in the back of the industrial unit its been resting in for the last 12 years. It's a 1.3 petrol and needs some welding to return to road legal, definitely front wing supports and quite a bit of lower windscreen at the minimum. I've wanted a pickup for decades but have never managed to get one till now. Hopefully I can get this one back on the road and put everything I can think of in the flatbed I'll be posting loads of questions (in the right forums hopefully) when I've recovered the car and know more about it. For now, Hi :)

oh - lots of options there. If you've not found it, I suggest you go Google and search for https://www.kopacek.com/ and look at the skoda branded storage solutions they have in stock. For example: https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/skoda-merchandise/new-official-skoda-2017-collection-simply-clever-cargo-trunk-folding-bag-carrier-box simple storage box is a good start. I have that - very useful.

I suggest that you go for the standard Brembo/Golf R type discs and pads in that case of the same year. They had 292bhp at the crank. Modern Golf 8 R models are 320bhp these days.

LOL - thankfully not. Good old fashioned black leather. Just a trick of the light shining through next door's hedge.

A proper catalogue would also show the PR codes for each type: 12 5E0857521 Mirror glass (convex) with carrier plate For heated and electric adjustable exterior mirrors left 1 PR:5SJ,6XD,6XE 12 5E0857521A Mirror glass (convex) with carrier plate For heated and electric adjustable exterior mirrors left 1 PR:5SR,6XD,6XE 12 5E0857521C Mirror glass (convex) with carrier plate For heated and electric adjustable exterior mirrors left 1 PR:5SJ,6XK,6XL 12 5E0857521D Mirror glass (convex) with carrier plate For heated and electric adjustable exterior mirrors left 1 PR:5SR,6XK,6XL 12 5E0857522 Mirror glass (convex) with carrier plate For heated and electric adjustable exterior mirrors right 1 PR:5RQ,6XD,6XE 12 5E0857522A Mirror glass (convex) with carrier plate For heated and electric adjustable exterior mirrors right 1 PR:5RT,6XD,6XE 12 5E0857522C Mirror glass (convex) with carrier plate For heated and electric adjustable exterior mirrors right 1 PR:5RQ,6XK,6XL 12 5E0857522D Mirror glass (convex) with carrier plate For heated and electric adjustable exterior mirrors right 1 PR:5RT,6XK,6XL PR code meanings: PRCode: 5RQ = Right exterior mirror: convex PRCode: 5RT = Right exterior mirror: convex (AGCC) PRCode: 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex PRCode: 5SR = Left exterior mirror: convex (AGCC) PRCode: 6XD = Exterior mirrors: electrically adjustable/heated PRCode: 6XE = Exterior mirrors: electrically foldable and electrically adjustable/heated PRCode: 6XK = Exterior mirrors: automatically dimming electrically foldable/adjustable/heated PRCode: 6XL = Exterior mirrors: with memory function automatically dimming electrically foldable/adjustable/heated Your picture does look like a auto-dimming type but there are various websites which will decode your VIN to show which PR codes you have and therefore, which you need

It was, but through one that signed everything over to a warranty company who frankly are a bunch of absolute crooks. I had the rear wiper motor seize and they refused to accept the mechanic's diagnosis and argued with me on the phone claiming they were right and he was wrong. I don't think the warranty covers those specific engine issues either. Done like a kipper. I'm trying to find a garage that will do something like that, because the last time I took it to one, they returned it to me having coded the steering wheel but not actually fixed the engine issue I took it in for...

Some discussion here re changing to GTI Clubsport discs: I thought about it, but never did it on my 2015 vRS (also 300+bhp), as the stock setup seemed fine, and I don't do track days. Gaz

For educational purposes: The Chevy Bowtie emblem on the “normal” 2014 Camaro is a large, textured gold form with a chrome trim piece running around the border. The Bowtie badge is designed with aerodynamics in mind, but having any solid object across the grille can affect air flow – even if only by a small amount. After all, that small amount could be the difference between winning a race and losing to a car with an engine running a little cooler late in the race. The Z/28’s Flowtie has only the chrome outer edge and the middle is left open to allow 3 addition cubic meters of air to enter the engine bay each minute. This allows the engine coolant and the engine oil to both run about 2 degrees (F) cooler and that translates to more durability and more power during the rigors of road racing. https://www.torquenews.com/106/even-chevy-bowtie-grille-emblem-camaro-z28-high-performance 2014 Chevy Camaro Z/28 - Increasing Air Flow 'Flowtie' Badge The results were a win. Affectionately referred to as the “Flowtie” by the engineering team, the hallowed out bowtie added just enough airflow to the engine to cool it by a staggering 2 degrees during track sessions. 2 degrees may not seem like a enough to justify the production of a new emblem but when you are developing the most track capable Camaro ever built everything counts and the modified bowtie earner its spot on all Z28 Camaros. https://www.newroads.ca/flowtie-chevy-camaro-flowtie/

I have this on my Octavia and Superb: https://www.amazon.de/portal/customer-reviews/media-gallery/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_crsl_img_sm?ie=UTF8&asin=B097YSVM59&mediaType=image If you look in the reviews with images you can see my Dragon skin Superb with the carbon look vinyl cover... They are great for light use, loading shopping, pets, light DIY items etc. If you were to drag a heavy furniture over it, then it will likely scratch or tear. You can see from the photo the thickness of the strip. I considered the official aluminium protector strip but that is more than 5x the price so I decided to try this first. I've no complaints so far

If someone gets a NIP for exceeding the speed limit the defence of the speedo not working is no defence if they wanted to challenge the speeding offence.

No getting nothing on screen at all no sound or beebs when in reverse but every think is working about from that.but now its locking the unit up can't turn it off or on gives flashing then black screen but still have sound when pressing any button it's fronze lad say might be the unit so have to wait until Tuesday till he gets vag computer

I take exception to you quoting me and talk about lack of evidence despite evidence was clearly provided in the earlier post. Therefore I've reported your comment for "Spam, posting without comprehension". And I'll no longer respond to you on this matter, as you said, otherwise it will drag on and on. Ok, if you knew so much surely you can name all the residential earthing schemes and when/why we need O-PEN protection. Also how O-PEN protections fail and I'm particularly interested to learn exactly how they "fail in an unsafe mode". “The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.” Put it another way, when you know you have surface level understanding, it is best to shut up. I'm always very happy to learn. I've learnt enough to made decisions for my home installations, but would be glad to learn more from you, by the way you post. But remember, credible sources only. Ideally referencing BS 7671.

current MY23 L&K had all four incandescent, replaced them to LED https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393511-what-bulbs-are-fitted-to-the-s3-upgraded-bulb-recommendations/?do=findComment&comment=5799679 previous MY16 Style had reflectors in the rear https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393511-what-bulbs-are-fitted-to-the-s3-upgraded-bulb-recommendations/?do=findComment&comment=4994279

But it also means that until a credible alternative is in place for those without a guaranteed home charging place a two-tier system of "have access to home charging" and "don't have access to home charging" is being created. Given the costs of public charging are currently much higher than home charging this will place yet another burden on hard stretched family finances of owning an EV, and hence will further limit the potential for EV sales and ownership. This problem must be solved, not ignored!

I know it may be as the min-max level are there for a reason. Overfilling can lead to pressure spill on a hot day while descending, for example. And puts a higher strain on gaskets/ components cause to the higher pressure

Last one. look, so, for me, no brainer if you want something completely OEM looking. If I was doing it again I would have spent the extra and got the 4k one. Anyway job done, back to my other wishlist items!

The Skoda WRC resurgence was marked by the participation of rally legends Colin McRae and Nicky Grist in 2005. Driving the Skoda Fabia WRC, their involvement brought renewed attention and credibility to the team. McRae's skill and Grist's co-driving expertise highlighted the car's potential and boosted Skoda's profile in the World Rally Championship.

The writing was on the cards for it to be discontinued after GPS loction stopped working a couple of months ago and Skoda Support failed to reply to emails about it. I've been using Connect Lite since I first got an Octavia in July 2016, so I'll miss it's ease of use.

@SpeedIsYourFriend Resetting the TPMS requires the car to be stationary ignition on. Always worth reading the Owners Manual. ? What does tyre pressures being fine mean? When where they last set at whatever pressure when cold, was the cold then the same as cold now in the summer? The warnings come as a different tyre circumference shows from the last time set. That can happen with a wheel sitting in the sun and getting hotter, or a brake binding or a bearing overheating. Basic stuff really. Then low batteries can cause warnings for whatever and when ever.

That guy doesn't want to go anywhere near areas of flood water with that.

A few photos from a recent holiday in Cornwall.

Here she is😎 Will post more pics later on.

I suggested to them that that car needed tested at "slightly naughty speeds". Enthusiastic overtaking speeds or possibly just any motorway down south speeds.

So had a slow puncture on the Q took it in and the tech warned me that the inner shoulder l of both tyres was very worn. Not dangerous but not far off it. Had a stern discussion with the supplying dealer which started with, “our prep records show 4.5mm across the tyre”. i sent a picture the conversation continued, “ah, very sorry about that I’ll see what can be done”. In fairness they are picking the car up next week and putting on two new Pirellis.

It's only illegal if you get caught

Skoda new logo & brand identity https://www.skoda-auto.com/news/news-detail/brand-identity Just been reading about the new design language being brought in with the Vision 7S, along with the new style Škoda lettering. Seems like the flying arrow is set to disappear almost completely from the exterior of Škoda vehicles (not sure about interior) with just the lettering appearing and rear (and sides on V7S, but that’s just a show car). Modern Solid Vision 7S and new design language show Seems a pretty safe evolution from something like the enyaq, and for me, still way better than the designs of other core VAG brands - Audi, VW, Seat.