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I’ve had my 280 for just short of 4 weeks now and she is sat outside a chalet in the Vendee’ while we take a 2 week break. Never missed a beat and has returned over 35mpg while loaded to the parcel shelf.

If it's only rear sensors, there is no button You only get the button with front/rear or 360 systems: As for the OP issue, without a proper code reader it could be anything 😕

They're nice wheels and give it a clean look, but for me it softens it a bit too much for a VRS. As above though, it's a matter of taste and hats off to you modifying your car to your taste, with a decent product.

Yes Sport enables more aggressive throttle, steering, ACC, DSG, etc. ECO enables less aggressive throttle, ACC, DSG, coasting, etc. Normal is somewhere between Eco and Sport.

You say you have checked the wiring in the door, but have you checked the wiring to the plugs on the A-pillar? That sounds like classic Fabia issue.

Not sure if a KFC counts as a nice back backdrop 😁

TBH based on the handful of his videos I've seen this guy appears to be a tin foil wearing nutter and many of the comments appear to feed that paranoia. DOnt get me wrong , there may be a grain of truth in his videos/comments but watching them is like listening to fingernails being dragged across a blackboard.

https://www.lister.com/available-models/lfp

Well... for anyone interested, the hose seems to have been improperly replaced at some point. The lower part (towards the front of the car) was coming loose as the metal ring had been put in backwards (so the metal teeth were not sitting in their grooves as they were pointing the wrong way) and was not securing the hose. Ring in place properly now and the hose is tight and as there is no movement during driving, it has stopped rubbing the brake fluid wiring and is no longer wearing through (plus the small oil leak from the improperly fitted end has stopped).

@DAN@ADRIAN FLUX might be along saying try again. Sometimes they have ridiculous quotes. Have you looked at the Insurance section ? Chris Knott. Try the ones that say they do modified.Performance direct, Greenlight, etc etc d

If it has a turbo and 2016 it will be a 1.2 TSI of what ever power. No Turbo with a MPI.

These headline figures are quite eye watering. The journos tend to test the top of the range models with all the toys on them, Renault's incredible photoelectric chromatic roof panel is a wonder but would not be on my list of things to have. The eleventh commandment, left behind by Moses on the third tablet which he did not go back for says do not pay retail. I have gone for the cheapest version of the Scenic etech but I still get quite a wack off the list price of £37.5k and also the finance at 4.9% is a nice to have too, plus a decent wallbox that would cost a grand to buy and have fitted I presume. I am not even sure what the luxury car tax will be doing on cars over £40k, even if already registered...... https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/car-tax/112227/car-tax-2024-ved-rates-explained-and-how-to-tax-my-car#:~:text=If you purchase a new,cars are exempt until 2025. I did not want to risk it so was happier to get under £40k to be sure to avoid. Also the more expensive models are fitted with 20 inch wheels as OE. Too big for this type of car IMO plus it dents the range significantly as well. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Zero emission vehicles Electric and hydrogen cars are currently exempt from paying road tax, however, as of 2025 any car registered from 1 April 2017 to 31 March 2025 will pay standard annual rates of road tax – currently £190 per year. New cars sold from 1 April 2025 will incur the lowest rate of VED in the first year (currently £10), rising to the annual flat rate in the second year. EVs costing over £40,000 will lose their luxury car surcharge exemption in 2025, as well. Owners will have to pay an additional £410 per year from the second year through to the sixth. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So cars might only effectively cost well under £40k and have plenty of room for 5 persons, some who are a long way over 6 foot as in my family's case. Expensive, well a matter of perspective, very cheap to run, for lecky and servicing every too years quite cheaply, practical longish ranges. As to devaluation this is the beauty of PCP, one has the choice to hand it back or keep it for the ballon price if one has grown attached to it. I will find it hard to part with Zoe next year as it has been such a good car. Little birdie tells me that Renault might sell it to me well below the balloon payment price as its market value will probably be several £k less than that balloon payment !! Considering the tech in these cars (though I am Renault through and through and not Stellantis and I find some of their marketing just wierd) these cars have massive more tech year on year and I just am really looking forward to getting stuck in to my Scenic 60 kWh in a few weeks time, it is due to arrive in Bristol shortly according to my App tracing it.

OP says 1.9TDI in vehicle info section.

If you can't feel the difference between the settings then it's likely not working.

Had mine done at the local main dealer last month, as I was on 38500. £270 all in. I knew they wouldn't have a slot for weeks; booked it when I was at 36000, so it all worked out. Wouldn't liked to have waited until 41000 to even book it though. Might have affected the warranty I guess.

That sounds to me as if the clutch is 'grabbing'. This could possibly indicate some sort of contamination on the pressure plate or lining. If you haven't already done so, I'd suggest having a dealer technician take a drive in it.

Ours has been back at the dealer for three days. They just called to say they took it out with 5 people in it and the noise was very apparent but they really struggled to pin it down. On “advice from Skoda” they decided it was the shocks knocking so apparently (but I’d be amazed if this is true) disassembled them and… applied some “special” grease. They’ve assured me it’s fixed now. I can’t go for the car today so will have to wait & see.

The bite point is normal our car is the 1.0 TSI SE 5dr 6 speed from moving of from 1st to second can be extremely difficult at times without it snatching. Sometimes it makes for a very uncomfortable ride for the passengers as it feels like your head is being snapped back and forth.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'm wondering if the original fault was the variable vanes being jammed in the turbo - not the actuator itself. I'd suggest asking whoever is currently working on vehicle for full findings of fault investigations.

If you want to follow VW's dictates on oil (502 00 / 504 00) then your Owners Manual will guide you, the Germans of course have to have their own system of numbers for things like oil and (difficult to follow numbers coolant) to make out there's something special, the Owner's Manual doesn't give weight range or fill capacity (why? because they don't). For my wife's 2015, 1.2 TSI, 90 petrol the Dealership(s) claimed to have used 5w-30 and then later 0w-30. "Longlife" or "LL" to me are just marketing terms but if it is also a better oil than one that doesn't have those terms on the label then better to use it. "Longlife" is supposed to be about and for longer "service" (oil 7 oil filter change) but I stick with the 9,400-mile or 12 months whichever is the sooner, I might extend the mileage if I was using a really good oil but still change every 12 months. A 5w or 0w engine oil will be a good engine oil to meet the 0w and 5w specifications, of course even at these specs there are some "more equal than others" but you can get into diminishing returns and it may depend on if you want to keep the car a few years or many years and how the car is used and driven.

The MIB1 screens are lower resolution so if you fit a MIB2 screen with a MIB1 glovebox unit you'll get duplicate images on the screen.

I'd be very surprised if an Elegance didn't have rear parking sensors, but the lack of any parking switch in the centre console does make doubt?

As for the record: In GR of the total of 8.9 million taxpayers, 67.7% of the total, i.e. six million taxpayers, declare an individual income of up to 10,000 euros. They share 28% of the total income (i.e. 24 billion euros) and pay 4.93% of the total tax, i.e. 400 million euros. Freelancers are the biggest tax evaders. From 10,000 to 20,000 euros is declared by approximately one in four. There are 2.07 million individuals with a cumulative income of €30 billion (i.e. 35% of the total), who also pay 30% of the total personal income tax (approximately €2.4 billion). It has been calculated that for 175 out of the 365 days of the year, Greeks are expected to work in 2024 just to pay taxes and contributions to the state. They don't pay taxes (not even a public transport ticket) the Gypsies and foreign "immigrants" but they get all the allowances (paid of course by the others). @Thefeliciahacker you must pay attention to the tyres, the car-cover does not protect them 100% and you need a board beneath each tyre so won't touch the asphalt. A rubber-care product will also help them due to summer.

My regular garage, a VAG independent said they didn't service DSGs but put me in touch with the local man who does. He quoted me about £300. (Vague number because the guy gave me a rapid-fire list of prices of oil, filter, labour over the phone and then finished with "Plus the VAT!" and I didn't have a pen handy.) and it's a while you wait service. He said the gearboxes themselves are bulletproof mechanically, with the mechatronic unit being the weak point, but it was no bother to sort out. He was very complimentary about the DQ381's reliability, and said oil changes were really for the benefit of the clutches. I'll probably get it don't next year at 6 years and around 26K miles.

My "real" name is Michael and as for alternative pronunciations of it try the Irish. They say mee-hawl.

Only 2nd, you've let us down😉😂🤣

I've just checked the battery status FYI Get in car Close all doors Start engine Leave for 5 / 10 seconds Turn engine off Press and hold 0.0/Set button (You trip mileage comes back so not to worry about it resetting) Release when battery shows Apologies if im teaching you to suck eggs Mine seems okay at 70% but that was after a 20 min ride back from work on dual carriage ways. I may invest in a new battery especially before the winter months come along. I'll wait for a reply from Skoda and see what they have to say first Cheers Josh

Which side of the VC showing the half full?

1.6 or 2.0?

Thank you for the pictures! The camera looks nice, I'll be contacting Fitcamx, probably only for front 4k camera!

The evaporator temeprature sensor should help modulate the air con compressor and regulate the temperature of the evaporator to stop it from freezing. I would check the sensor hasnt become dislodged and check it is reading correctly if your evaporator is freezing up.

I thought I would return to this thread, as in my case I found the problem. An older friend with a lot of experience on various cars suggested the ball joints (which as most people except former-me probably know, attach to the bottom of the spring-damper leg with a tapered spigot, and into the swinging arm (sorry, I am really a motorcyclist, I'm not sure of the name on a car) with a three bolt fixing). So I bought a pair of ball joints fairly cheap and fitted them yesterday. I think the old ones were OK, actually - but the three bolts fixing on the drivers side were loose, which was not obvious when all was covered in crud, and the forging which is part of the ball joint could move around in the arm and 'clunk'. The threads on those bolts did not look great - I have never had this off so I have no idea how it got so messy. Anyway, another suggestion now for somewhere to look if your car develops a clunk on bumps.

Even my low mileage* Vectra has surpassed yer Fiesta. That being said, it has averaged about 90 miles a day since October... In other, Fabia related news: It's somewhere over 94k now.

Snap!

Well I only ordered it yesterday,but it’s just arrived. And that job the dealer said I couldn’t do myself, and would take their guys an hour and a half and cost £324 labour (plus whatever the charge for the module) - it’s just taken me 3 minutes. I just need to figure out what screw to use to hold it in place. Plug it in, switch the ignition on, pair my iPhone, et voilà! The Columbus now has a working Phone screen, and the menu on the Maxi-Dot is there as well. It has all my phone contacts and call lists. I’ve even talked to my wife through it. It can also play music, although I have to select it and start it from the phone. Should the Columbus be able to see and browse my music collection?

I'm in almost an identical situation to OP. Clearly more towns and cities are going down the ULEZ route (or something similar, e.g. Oxford). Glasgow has an outright ban on diesels which are not Euro 6, and they will fine drivers of non-compliant vehicles. I've concluded that my best option is to put my 13 plate Skoda Superb (Elegance) in part exchange for a Euro 6 vehicle. This not my preferred option, but this appears to be the "direction of travel" (no pun intended!). I've shortlisted a few Skoda Superbs and am tempted by Laurin & Klement, although they are a smidgeon above my budget. It's only coming out of the kid's inheritance, though. 😉 Good luck with whatever you choose.

So got some of the vrs' panels on And a new set of lamps Nice DPA ones with black inserts.

So got some parts of a wrecker mk2 and finally am bastardising a mk2 subframe into this. Few odds and ends, full subframe a mid body brace and some decent condition cladding for the middle, SDI didn't have them, vrs were broken and had a hole for a fuel cooler. These ones should be just right. Stripped and cleaned all up, wishbones looked ok but didn't use them. Used the spare wishbones with SuperPros castor Increase bushes, gave them a cleanup with the rest of the stuff. So like the monte the subframe and arms went Scania Chassis Grey. The brace went stone chip black. And the 20mm anti roll bar (size up from a vrs) I did something special with. Had some cayenne metallic in a can so sprayed it that. The results are fairly impressive for an evenings work. Did end up reusing most of the old hardware, Arb bushes were new and brackets were in decent shape so kept them for now. Will be getting new ball joints these are temporary. Good evening in all. Also put the vrs shell on a pallet to move it around. Works very well

Had a ”Stage 1” remap this morning by a local company, in fact just a few streets away. Wasn’t put on a rolling road, but I specifically asked for a low torque remap, the quoted figures were 170HP and 390NM which of course I took with a pinch of salt. I brimmed the tank and took the car for a spirited test drive out to Nantwich. It goes so much better, I can’t believe the difference it has made, I will monitor the fuel economy for the next few tanks full of diesel and see if it’s improved. That’s if I can resist the urge to give it a punt here and there 🤣 bloody love the thing even more!

Cars tracked and all done there. Now a full service kit, all genuine. Genuine Air, Oil, Fuel, Pollen and wipers. Quantum oil of course. Only 10k on this. Been tracking down a few leaks, boost mostly. Seen weeping here. So put a new seal on the damper, genuine of course. Cleaned all up well and replaced. Egr seal on the intake manifold was suspect too, so again changed it for genuine. All back together and tightened. Tightened and replaced some suspect boost clamps too. Cleaned them all out when I was at it. Replaced the MAF for one off the parts car too. Running much better now, a lot more responsive Replaced the undertray and tec screwed the back onto the subframe as it was lower than I'd like. Plywood somehow holding up still Got some new steel rivnuts for the BAF K brace, seems a better job than the soft aluminium ones, somehow. Sitting well on the new suspension, rides very well and has fantastic roadholding. Can't recommend the ST shock and spring kit enough. Solid rubber wishbone bushes feel fantastic, roadholding is very good too. Few other small things, but bulk of it is up to scratch for now.

Dreaded this job, so it’s had new seals not that long ago, there was some sealant present when I removed the door card and some black putty type substance which I scraped away. The OSR was leaking every so slightly, but enough to make the door card get wet at the bottom. So I removed it, I only broke one clip 🙄 ten more ordered and on the way, and one of the plastic mounts that the clips sit in had been repaired previously so that needed sticking back on. I bought XPRO StixSeal which is supposed to be good stuff, it’s fixed the mount back in place really strongly. Anyway, removed what I could, did two passes with the StixSeal, not the smoothest of jobs, but hopefully I’ve done the trick.

I'm not sure if you can get replacement sills but if yours is like mine was I couldn't justify a panel for the amount I was putting in. Shifting all that factory rubber stonechip was a messy mission, clouds of burnt rubber! Still, it was OK once done. A lot less rusty than an E46 coupe... 😕

Fantastic service from PSiTuning, cannot fault them at all, so they’ve secured my future business! PSI 😎 Suppose I should have taken before and after photos, but the ride is all I needed to know how much better the setup is. Makes me wonder if the suspension on it was the original, I was expecting an increase in firmness of the ride, but it actually feels smoother. Seat Sport Front Upper Strut brace next to be fitted should be here tomorrow, purchased from Stoneacre in Doncaster. I have a Whiteline RARB to fit also, but waiting for my visit to Rustbuster before I fit that. Just a quick (2hrs) 🙄 clean today, think you can tell from my previous photos that it’s slightly lower.

The stone chips, rusty axle and wishbones are the only signs of age!

Well you could if you want. You'll need to linish off the zinc before welding and galvanised is even worse for you. You don't want anymore impurities in the weld than you can avoid. I measured the steel as 20g, about .9mm and it's a bit easier to bend than 18g. I did use a little 18g as well. I bought the steel off eBay. Cardboard, marker pen, scissors. Make your template, make sure you're happy with it then cut that out in steel. A compressed line to blow cool air onto the weld is also a good idea to keep the chance of distortion down. Also I'd a die grinder and carbide cutting tools to help get into the corners when cleaning up your welds. These about 6mm or 1/4" shank. Don't confuse these with Dremel size which is about 3mm. If you decide to put a bit more strength into the sills, when jacking up with them you could also do this. (This is right by the front access rubber bung) You can see in the corners where the tool has been chewing out the weld to leave it smoother. (See pic below) Rich

I searched thinking there would be a thread like mine but as there wasn't I thought I'd upload some pictures incase it helps someone else out. Hopefully you can see what's involved and what to expect. You "may" get a replacement panel off eBay but I've no idea what it would be like. It wasn't too hard to form a replacement piece out of 20g mild steel. Don't get galvanized, zinc coated or without, as long as you use a Weldthru paint for joins and can squirt some paint into the area once done. Sprayable wax after paintwork too but that really should come after a bodyshop, for obvious reasons. If you've access to a steel folder and guillotine all the better. I didn't but it would have made my job a little cleaner. I haven't welded anything on a car in years! Also don't be surprised to find the bottom of the front wings shot too.... 😕

Simpler than you'd think! The steel was placed in a vice, mark a line with a marker, small narrow cold chisel and beat small dings tight to each other to stretch the steel. Right up close to the jaws of the vice about 1mm away.Just work that chisel bashing left and right. If anyone needs me to take some photos to help clarify it I can do. That's all there is to it, I think I saw something done like it on youtube and it turned out OK! I'm a hack but there is some inspiring stuff of metal restoration and forming on youtube like this channel.

That rubbery underseal made quite a mess / cloud of smoke being removed by the way! (cough, cough). Note the peppering of rust at the bottom of the wing. You wouldn't have even known that was there as it corroded from inside.... 😕 Let's start chopping it out then! Angle grinder and cutting disc at the ready! If you are making your own panel try to take the template out in 1 piece if you can. Lower returns are fine, just some surface rust to clean up, the inside of the sill was good, just mucky due to factory waxoil type stuff.... I've had repair panels of varying quality over the years and I didn't need a complete sill so with some 20 gauge (0.9-1.0mm) mild steel I started making a replacement up. (I didn't photograph all of this sorry, I was busy making!) The templace was made from the old one with some overlap to allow for the width of the cutting disc. Also I started forming the 1st swage line that runs from front to back... Yeah, that doesn't look too bad. You can see on the right where I had to drill out some spot welds where it attached to the inner sill. Don't miss those. Also marked where the access rubber plug was too. With a bit of Racing tape, OK it's blue Scotch tape really, let's see how it fits. Marked a centre, drilled and filed out the hole for the plug / bung. Also the 2nd swage line has been added so it looks a little more factory. Offered up. Slightly notched around the raised / water drain area below the plug. Next up will be to weld a return to the panel and start welding it back in. Stay tuned Furby fans! 😛

Got a pot of Pantone 348 mixed up to paint the calipers, fronts were looking shabby. Deep clean and sanded Then paint Other side. Did the rears again also, no pictures though.

Great. So I just get the nasty surprise when the car decides to slam on mid bend because I've forgotten to switch off the "please kill me" button I would have thought the point of having to log in to my own car is that it remembers what I want from it. Perfectly pointless use of tech otherwise.