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My mum was born in 1923 but at 20 went from the Edinburgh area where her brothers and father had not long lives up to Macduff. To where my dad was 1 or 12, the 2nd youngest, his younger brother died at 12. (Infection started with a carbuncle) Anyway my mum has had the long life like 4 of my dads sisters. a North East war time diet, then a life of healthy food.) My gran did not live so long having had 11 children in 25 years or so. Ps been putting pictures on Facebook this week.

there's some excellent explanations from the Office of National Statistics on how life expectancy rates are calculated if anyone's interested https://www.ons.gov.uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/birthsdeathsandmarriages/lifeexpectancies/methodologies/periodandcohortlifeexpectancyexplained Nb looking at the life tables life expectancy at age 65 years in the UK (as a whole) in 2020 to 2022 (latest available) was 18.3 years for males (ie someone aged 65 in 2020/2022 could expect to live to 83.5) and 20.8 years for females (or 85.8)

Occasionally we get a red kite take a bird in flight and land in our back garden to devour its catch, my son has taken photos of it on a number of occasions, and we get left with after that is a load of feathers, which it plucks from its kill.

Very interesting video, thanks. Also appreciate you set the video to start at most relevant point. One more thing to mention is that EV BMS have a strange tendency to "restore" SoH on repeated rapid charging. I have noticed SoH going up as battery is exercised by rapid charging. Similarly, as mentioned, the mostly AC charged could have been kept near 100% most of the time. I know the option to limit charging to 80% was removed around 2016 when infotainment screen was refreshed from CarWings to Nissan Connect. Finally, this SoH read out is as accurate as BMS's best guess, If the car never exercises its full battery capacity (eg always AC charged small amount), the BMS figure would be lower than actual. Case in point, this is a snippet of my MYLR battery health plot against mileage. The wavy lines show SoH is more of a guess than actual value. The highest points are when I did the 1560 miles road trip to Isle of Skye, exercising the battery from high 90% down to low 10% and doing many ultra rapid charging. I'm not at all worried about recent rapid decline, as I've been charging small amounts last few months. Battery capacity calibration is slowly going off. Could come back if I exercise the battery and do one charge to 100%.

After the Buzzard encounter it turned in to a lovely evening..........

My Superb L&K from year 2020.

It's fun when the grommet falls into the washer bottle 🤣

I was on the VW forum for 11 years prior to getting a Karoq and the advice was to do oil changes annually irrespective of mileage. The variable of long life interval reduces service costs and looks good for companies who run cars for 3 years or less and the next owner picks up the problems.

Funnily enough that's the one I sent you the other night!

No it was while running and passing someone using a hedgetrimmer on conifers. I was working in and still do work in dusty atmospheres. That was the only attack but the peak flow meter shows low readings some days. I was going to stop the prescribed medication (Innovair Inhaler) as most of the time my peak flow readings were the same as they were in my 30's (I brought on asthma a couple of times spraying 2 pack paint) I never seem to be short of breath when running or doing intense physical work but the Pneumologue said that my flow rates on their laboratory machine (in a booth) were down and I should continue but allowed me to drop it to once a day. I was shocked when I saw the compte rendu sent to my GP (its accessible on line with all my medical records) to see that I only had 75% of theoretical breathing capacity, had I known that when I was running in competitions I would definitely have medicated myself, I know what 25% airflow restriction does to a petrol engine!!!!!!!! I also know that it was almost impossible to run with a Covid mask and my pace drops off if I am wearing a too tight Lycra top, - resistance against chest expansion.

Just to confirm that I had same thing with my Karoq and I told to mechanic to check what you guys wrote here. He already knew about this issue. I think he did greasing of what's shown on above pdf nbm 17 and sound is gone! He also said that is not something that will do any damage to the car, just not nice to hear. I also asked about pretty long intervals between changing oil, and he asked if my plan is to change car after short time or keep it longer. I said I want it for longer and he said that I must change interval to 15k (km), that this long life is a scam and not good for engine.

Back then deaths associated with child birth were orders of magnitude higher than they are now ( or even were in the 1960s ) . In addition to deaths directly associated with birth ( both mother and child ) there were many ( at the time frequently fatal ) diseases that the child could pickup ( generally in the first few years of life ) In the West most of these diseases where controlable by the '60s ( the last one that I recall being polio ) but are still a problem in some parts of the world 😞 Just to add, I dont believe that electric cars were at all common in those days. Even if they had been, I doubt that the death stats surrounding birth back then would be significantly different to what they were ( what an obvious attempt to bring electric cars into a post )

Probably just a coincidence that the ABS light came on when you removed some brake fluid. Fluid level would of gone up with new discs and pads, pistons pushed back due to increased thickness. Got to say I never bother removing fluid when I use my pressure bleeder, just leave it a little down from the rim. The level can only fall as brakes wear, can't rise. And I never top up as brakes wear as it causes overflowing on later pad/disc replacement. Just removing some fluid would of made no difference, I'm assuming you wouldn't of even emptied the reservoir, why would you. More likely a wheel pickup has failed. Obviously they're in the vicinity of the discs and calipers, but you've got to be pretty rough to of damaged one on a brake change. You do need a scan that covers ABS, that would highlight which corner to investigate further.

The Yeti has three different front brake disc sizes and three different rear brake disc sizes. Yeti front discs 280x22mm 288x25mm 312x25mm Yeti rear discs 253x10mm 272x10mm 282x12mm The Karoq has two different front brake disc sizes and one rear brake disc size. Karoq front discs 288x25mm 312x25mm Karoq rear discs 272x10mm

Hi Mate, My OBD11 turned up today, great bit of kit, didn't realise you could have referred me and got some free stuff. I have just been trying to figure it all out and the OBD11 app seemed limited, I couldn't see any values etc until I installed the OBD11 VAG application instead. It's saying the sound borne noise is 100%. I genuinely cant hear any difference between eco, normal and sport mode to the internal sound output. I also can't seem to find any one click app sections on either application at all.

So after buying an OBD11 reader, the scan came up straight away with fault code P255600, Engine Coolant Level Sensor/Switch. I cleared the code and went for a 15 min drive with live data for the coolant. The temp gauge didn't sweep during the (short) run out, which was a mix of 30-National Speed limit roads near me. The coolant generally seemed to sit between 103-108 at a steady speed, with it reducing to 95ish when accelerating in third from 30-60, then moving up to 103+ when back to cruising. Oil temp reached 106, which has always seemed to the where it sits unless it's hot outside. I'm still digging into the menus and options, there is one to run live data between the engine and radiator sensors, which I'll do tomorrow - I briefly checked it at the end of the drive and it showed 3 Deg difference, which I suspect is fairly normal given their different positions in the engine bay etc. I did have both of these sensors replaced within the last couple of months so hopefully it's one them that's at faulty. I'll update after the car goes in to the garage this week.

That is how averages work. I am not convinced that those born in the 1960,s and 70,s will be very long lived as an average. No matter what scientists say. Sugar and processed foods, and early years living with emissions / pollution. Well not those brought up in Scotland.

My Late father died in his 40s and my Mother went on till she was 92.

AMAZON went the way of investing in a start up company for their vans did they not, and there might be an issue. Which manufactures vans do they use in the UK? DPD run plenty Electric Vans in Scotland, as do the Post Office, Open Reach, British Gas and , OVO and lots of others.

If you get active TPMS and you need winter tyres it will be another £500. I had to do that on my wife's Note. 4 extra active sensors. I am very happy with passive TPMS.

Not in a pressurised system, the pressure will increase according to Boyles law. The flow of fuel will be a function of the system pressure and the injector orifice diameter, the fuel rail will be sized to not restrict the flow to the injectors. Dont make the mistake of thinking that 40°c is twice as hot as 20°c, the gas laws and thermodynamics use absolute temperature measured in degrees Kelvin, 40°c (313°K) is less than 7° hotter than 20°c (293°K) If you really want to continue this you should be looking at the viscosity of petrol vs temperature, you will find that the injectors will flow two tenths of three sixteenths of **** all extra fuel making the mixture minutely richer, at which point the ECU responding to the change in Lambda sensor reading will command less injector duration or rail pressure to lean the engine out back to Lambda 1.0. In short you will be pi55ing into the wind!

+2 for Michelin cross climates, I am on my second set of them. Very good grip throughout all the seasons. I live on the south coast as does the OP and don't regret getting "snow capable" tyres despite the climate down here. They were superb in the last two very wet winters and I drive a lot of very rural roads. I have 16inch rims and they work out around £110 per corner. Some deals pop up for slightly. They lasted very well and got around 30k miles out of the fronts before replacement required and ~43k on the rears.

Pin 1 doesn't go to ECU. It comes from pin 6 of the 14 way connector pair adjacent to the main battery earth to chassis stud. There's a good selection of workshop manuals including circuit diagrams here:

Try asking the dealer…? But anecdotal evidence from the few posts on here about orders would suggest lead times are ‘normal’ (2-3 months) rather than the 12+ months back when the world went to pot.

Never skimp on your brakes I see you are in the UK the brake shoes are not expensive that's if you do the job yourself and they last a long time.

I guess they must have done it properly, because the headlights are now really good - perfect level! 🙂

Arrived at a local country park earlier and this (? Buzzard) dropped a squirrel right in front of the car! My camera was in the boot sadly so had to make do with Dashcam footage Sorry to report the squirrel didn't make it although a real privilege to see up close........... L_20240824180012_35~5.mp4

Correct, the larger capacity one is for the headlights, the one with 2 outlets is front and rear screen pump.

I have discovered hundreds if not thousands of Renault Kangoo and Citroen Berlingo EV's languishing in fields in 5 different locations close to where I live, they all seem to trace back to one garage who will be renting the extra space from other businesses and land owners. The majority of them are yellow coloured La Poste vans both the first and second generation EV's but there are also vans and 4 seat passenger vehicles from EDF and lots of other local and national Utilities that were all keen to score brownie points following the herd mentality, from what I have gathered they cost €20k new and those that sold at auction were lucky to raise €3k. I'm going to go and have a chat with the guy trying to sell them, I believe with the Renault you have to rent the battery which is a no for me, I think the majority of them are being stocked up for recycling by the scrapyard in my village, the biggest and most up to date precious metal recycling facility in SW France and that they probably dont have the specialist plant up and running yet or are waiting for approvals. If I can score an interesting project for much cheapness then I will take the plunge, my Yeti which is being abused as a van could finally get cleaned up and the rear seats re-installed. Does anyone know anything about these models? I think they were 22kw initially with 33kw later on and restricted to 110km/h, I would say that most of them are 5 - 7 years old.

From memory, the leaking rusty one you have does front windscreen and rear. The separate one to the left is headlights.

Only if one is interested in old LEAFs. The LEAF was the forerunner mass market EV but the tech us known by many of us to be flawed. The battery pack only had passive heat release to the environment and particularly the 24 and even more so the 30 kwh pack can degrade faster the just about any other EVs battery pack. The Zoe which has also been made in the hundreds of thousands gas less issues due to its active air cooling and now all EVs as dar as I know are liquid cooled it is a non issue. EVs on average will achieve twice as many miles with the original engine in place.

You'd want to be very confident that you can unlock driver's door mechanically with the key so that you can get to the bonnet release when you get back and want to reconnect the battery. No other issues occur to me.

Skoda Stealership "thought process" is "Can we charge money for 'fixing' something?" If Yes then "It needs fixed" Else "It's perfectly normal sir."

Sorry thought you meant the option to disable or turn it down. Yep they all have them just not the options in the selector on the old ones. Turned mine off with OBDeleven

What is the mileage of the vehicle? Intermittent rough running would be something like: spark plugs or the coils breaking down when getting warm. Check out the misfire counters; if you have a high number of misfires, then its time to look at new sparkplugs and coils (all 4). If the crank position sensor is failing, then it should show up a fault or there was an issue with the O2 sensors, again a fault would be shown. Typically, every change sparkplugs every 50k miles/84k kms depending on driving style and definitely replace coils every 100k miles/160k kms.

@willing991 its done well in its 23 years, RIP.

I bought this new in 2001. 296,070 miles. Its a 1.4MPI Classic. Mot has run out. Rust in sills. Wing bottoms gone. Slight rust on wheel arch from repaired accident damage. Needs camshaft sensor probably. Head gasket on way out. VW 002 gearbox has ply in differential so probably the rivets coming loose. Had a power steering leek fixed which affected the pump slightly. Washer bottle leaking. Windscreen cracked. The timing chain rattles as it hasn't had a new chain in over 100000 miles. The clutch is original and it doesn't use any oil. It's only ever been a workhorse to me so before it meets it's maker i thought you might be interested to see it just for a giggle. Theoretically it's repairable but realistically its scrap. PM me if you're interested.

Finally got the reverse camera wired in the XTRONS one didn’t work for some reason, so brought one that has the number plate light in so a lot neater works perfectly straight away

I haven't finished yet but it's much better than before -

Well, just got home in Staffordshire after 12 days holiday in France. I never saw another 280 in 1500 miles apart from as we arrived at the duty free car park in Calais we literally both pulled up to passport control at the same time. I simply had to pull up alongside. My wife got a little thumbs up while I was stocking up on duty free.

Gearbox is fine - Water pump isn't! VW site needed VIN to access manual but SEAT manual was much more explicit and had full instructions for towing an Auto. Basically ensure it's in neutral, no going more than 50Km and not exceeding 30 MPH. SO looks like I'm OK.

Gandalf's latest "project" is complete....Front Grille DRL light bar. Towards the end of last year Skoda released the new Kodiaq which has the front grille light stripe - I saw that and I decided that's my new project. The new mk4 Kodiaq... Been planning this since last year. I'm happy with how it's turned out. The light bar is connected to and controlled by the BCM, so it dims and brightens like the factory DRL, with the same coding. I used an empty lighting channel, Leuchte8F LB39. The front grille has an opening that is perfectly in line with the headlight's DRL - so perfect alignment for the light bar. The light bar I made myself, using an LED strip, a plastic holder, and a light diffuser. Fingers crossed that the light bar hold up against the elements. The light bar I made... Test fitting the clips to hold the light bar behind the grille. Mounted and wiring routed on the bumper to use the same path as the factory PDC and headlight washer wiring. Wiring from BCM was routed through the firewall, into the engine bay, they down to the factory wiring harness for the PDC and headlight washer.

Have ordered hyper green vRS estate. Dealer sent these pics in meantime.

I finally got around to getting some pics of the car with the camera rather than the phone whilst on holiday last week.....

Loud, smoky cars are antisocial, not cool.

I’ve had my 280 for just short of 4 weeks now and she is sat outside a chalet in the Vendee’ while we take a 2 week break. Never missed a beat and has returned over 35mpg while loaded to the parcel shelf.

I used H&R springs on my Superb and I was very impressed. Firmed things up a little bit but just enough to notice a decent improvement

@JR RS okay here you go. I’m happy with the outcome, subtle enough not to “poke” but enough of a change to fill the arches. I’ve done some “before” and “after”’s

all good - no need to b sorry. that's wat forums r for......to ask questions/help/opinions. with regards to the foglight surrounds, i got mine from AliExpress. they came with 3M tape pre-stuck, to stick on to the bumper. in my case, the surrounds fit perfectly to the contour of the bumper, and stuck on well. they've been on for 4+ years now and still holding strong. having said that, i've heard plenty of others who have bought the Maxton version which was not a good fit because the curvature did not match the bumper, hence making it stick was a challenge. show us pics once u have the spacers on 🙂

MY2017 Sportline 280 4x4