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I've now created the how to guide, for those interested. MIB 2 to MIB2.5 Upgrade Guide v1.0.pdf

After my recent post showing the MIB2.5 upgrade, I've created a How to Guide, if anyone is interested in going down this path. MIB 2 to MIB2.5 Upgrade Guide v1.0.pdf If the above doesn't work, try this link. References:- - GitHub G11 to G13 Conversion Guide - GitHub AIO Firmware Readme

Latest Car Guru UK youtube video.... Mainly about the 370 mile than the 261 mile version I have ordered but the 360 mile WLTP (can be surpassed or not reached) and is bigger battery is the one most commonly ordered. Bigger battery one RRP is just over £40k but discounts out there mean one can be had for much less. My £37.5k version is out there for about £33K I have seen. As said low finance at 4.9%, better than many mortgages out there.

Latest Updated Speedcams - September, 2024. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( September, 2024 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - September, 2024.zip * Credit, past and present, to Nyky from Gpsurl for the use of his database without which these files would not be compiled.

I have Travel Assist on mine. A pull of the lower stalk on the left of the wheel engages Adaptive Cruise Control and a then push of the button on the wheel activates Travel Assist. I can confirm that with Travel Assist fully activated the car will steer itself - hence, adapative lane assist or guidance or whatever you want to call it. It is part of Travel Assist. I find it helpful on the motorway for sure.

Wait until you are doing 70 on the motorway and the traffic recognition sees a sign in the coned off roadworks area of 10mph - #ankerson

A Mk1 Fabia is unlikely ever to become a valuable classic so whether is worth repairing depends on your attitude to the car - if it's just a means of getting from A to B then no, but if it has some sentimental value that exceeds its market value (probably a lot less than the £800 you paid 5 years ago) then maybe yes. Two cars I've owned I now regret selling - a 1995 Renault 5GT Turbo and a 2007 Audi RS4 Avant - I now realise I loved driving them so much that for me they're worth so more than the market value.

Forgot to update this so will now for anyone that comes across it. Changing the pump was indeed the solution.

This photo is of my Turner I bought it for £300 from a work colleague (who was the 2nd owner) when it was painted pale yellow and, after I sold it years later, it was repainted lime green. The car began life with a mildly-tuned Ford 1340cc motor that I replaced with a new Ford 1500cc unit and gearbox, with the 1340cc motor ending up in a pal's Cortina. It was still in use in 2000, but I don't know where it is now.

Getting back to your question, yes if you have Travel Assist you should have Adaptive Lane Assist https://www.skoda.ie/models/octavia/octavia-old/octavia-travel-assist#page-not-found-sites/enie-v2-9a5ab887-4b7c-4632-92db-7f8598170030

Great their little pet dog is there as well. Laughing Gravy.

Stan and ollie😁

I used them on my MK1 Octavia, they were OK and a reasonable price back then compared to new springs, TBH its pointless fitting them if your rear springs have already sagged, new ones from Lesjofors or Kilen (same factory) are very cheap these days and you can choose the upgraded ones for increased unladen height and carrying capacity, I have fitted them to the last 2 vehicles and they have been great. You should look at the colour coding of your existing springs to decide what uprating will suit you best. Carlston is the font of all knowledge on this subject!

So this thread is going to be a bit of a hybrid! As well as outlining the projects I am doing on my car, Ill supply as much detail along the way for new projects to hopefully allow others to do the same and also to answer any questions you may have. Lets start with the car itself; Car Skoda Superb MK3 TSI Sportline Estate in Laser White Engine Standard 2.0 TSI EA888 with 220bhp Racingline air intake Racingline turbo intake pipe Racingline turbo intake elbow Transmission Standard 6 speed DSG DQ250 Suspension Currently standard original Brakes Audi S3 Front Calipers with plain fascia plates Superb 280 Rear Calipers with vented discs Drilled and grooved black discs OE brake pads Braided stainless brake lines Wheels & Tyres Standard Vega 19 inch alloy wheels with 235/40R19 Bridgestone T005 Spare wheel - Full size, same as above Exterior Standard sportline black pack Maxton side skirts Rear mudflaps Maxton splitter Maxton fog surrounds Interior Rear seat release from boot area LED boot lights White LED boot torch Electric tailgate Heated front seats Heated rear seats Heated steering wheel Ambient LED footwell lights LED front door puddle lights LED rear door puddle lights Electric/Memory front seats ICE & Security Canton sound system Rear door keyless entry Tailgate easy open/close 12 parking sensors MIB2.5 Columbus radio Virtual cockpit 3 zone climate control Heated windscreen Heated washer jets Front and rear dash cam ADAS Adaptive cruise control Predictive cruise control Adaptive lane assist High beam assistance SLA headlights Side assist Cross traffic assist Self park Rear view camera with lens washer As you can see, for a Sportline that started off with only the following optional extras: Electric tailgate, MIB2.5. Its came quite a long way and heres a few photos to show the work done so far, if anyone wants further details on any of the current retrofits, let me know, the future ones will be documented as I go. Lane Assist 3Q0980654 camera fitted as well as a new windscreen - all features enabled and fusion canbus ran to the front radar. Heated windscreen Canton soundsystem An absolutly massive retrofit requiring around 150 meters of new wiring, all corners of the car, a lot of new speakers and a lot of custom made wiring 0 Side assist/Cross traffic detection Another expensive retrofit requiring new wing mirror glass at £400 each side, new radars and brackets behind the rear bumper and all associated coding and wiring Release rear seats from luggage area & Heated rear seat elements 3 Zone climate control Another massive retrofit - stripping the entire dashboard from the car to replace the complete heater assembly to allow the 3rd climate zone, this also gave me a good chance to neaten everything up behind the dashboard and also flush the heater core. pACC/Predictive cruise control Required replacing the front radar and also a calibration of it - done perfectly with any solid smooth object and a few tape measures and patience. Facelift tailights Fitting these allowed for dynamic indicators and unlocking animation - these arent a straight fit and require custom wiring adapters and new wires running to the BCM Virtual Cockpit Quite a specialist retrofit this one, needs access to the main dealer tool for component protection and immobiliser recoding - but so worth it! Carbon clean @ 50k miles Not much a retrofit but after 50k of constant motorway miles i thought it would be a good time to give it a walnut blast. Cost around £40 in parts and my already owned air compressor and garage vacuum LED boot lights and engine styling Nothing too special, just a custom made LED torch, LED lights that dont fault and Racingline air intake and associated parts

2011 superb 2.0tdi, 4x4 DSG. Well yes, tomorrow I'll start the process of changing these parts. Also dsg oil/filter service, front diff service and general inspection service when things are disassembled. I will try to document as best I can, but I know for a fact that when I am in the "zone" , pictures are not in the front of my head... My scheduled work order is: Empty dsg case and engine oil. FL+FR wheel off Front axles off Front subframe down Disconnect pipes to/from webasto heater DPF down Next start disassemble things in order to get the transmission case removed from the gearbox housing. Then removal of dsg gearbox. Behold, there I will have a clear and present view of the infamous EGR cooler 😆 Replace. Well, flywheel off and finally use tool T10134 to assemble new crank seal. But first, remember to set engine at TDC by use of tool T10050. Wish me luck. (Have done a couple of flywheels, timingbelts and other **** before) Will document in here with pics and what special tools or helpful gadgets I use. Worth to mention, I do this in my own garage (have own scissorlift).

Hi All, I have a 2016 Superb Greenline which has been the best car I have ever owned. It has now clocked 175K trouble free mile and is still as fit as day 1. What is the last year of the Superb that used this size engine?

Yesterday i had screen replacement. PUE: H47 now its H49. First impression are already when typing its more smooth, before i needed to press really hard that keybord detected what i pressed.. Now its really soft.

As RustyNuts' nuts seemed to have permanently seized I found and used another chap that can repair the Columbus and other models:- https://navitex.co.uk/repair-service/skoda-columbus-rns510-sat-nav-repair-service/ Andrei fixed my unit within a day and shipped it back to me the next. All problems have been resolved and he is highly recommended.

No, you don't, you're just overriding the stock switch. There might be a problem that you'll need to hold the switch for a moment until the motor moves.. but solving that would require more than just a diode. Using inputs meant for this would be much easier.

That’s odd. Changed mine about 18 months ago. The A331H fits fine on my 2020 SEL estate.

"Battery Charge Condition" I'm not sure what this means, is it a human language translation from another language to English. Others I've seen show battery charge in volts and battery "health" in percentage. I'll leave this to @rum4mo as I think he has graphs of such(?). Some of those selections would be interesting to see to compare with static tests with a multimeter. Do have a read of those pdfs I put up, and they're from VW.

Her you see the bolts on the heat shield on the subframe assembly that needs to be removed in order to access the connectors. And finally the subframe down. Very easy access to replace bushings, stabilizer and steering rack when it is out. To replace bushings in-situ is doable, but i prefer to have working space and since noone is paying me for doing it, why not just remove the subframe and have space :-)

Especially when you consider that "New Road Layout Ahead" signage usually stays in position for years after a relatively minor change to layout.

I forgot to mention in the how-to-guide about the dashboard trim piece that needs to b changed, ideally, though it's not noticeable from the inside the car.... unless u look behind the screen, or through the windscreen. Whilst I'm not a 100% sure yet, as I'm still researching, I think I need version E of the trim piece. My current part number is 3V2858418 NH1 (Brushed Metal). I think I need to get 3V2858418E NH1, which has a smaller opening profile behind the screen. My theory, with pre-facelift, is:- - MIB2 with 8" screen uses 3V2858418 NH1 - MIB2.5 with 9.2" screen uses 3V2858418E NH1 However I'm having trouble sourcing one secondhand as most r black from Sportline models. These r the options:- 3V2858418E HQ1 - gloss anthracite 3V2858418E NH1- brushed metal 3V2858418E NF8 - satin black If u have a LHD model, it will b 3V1. RHD is 3V2. As soon as I find out for sure, I'll update this post.

If you're doing it the right way through the central unit, 3-pin or 2 momentary switches is all you need - it works by connecting either contact to ground. For the in-doornvariant, you'll have to figure it out. The wiring diagrams show that lock/unlock is just matter of connecting/disconnecting contact inside the motor to the ground, but doesn't say which is for lock and unlock. Once you figure that out, you have two options - either lock/unlock momentary buttons, one NO, parallel to the motor switch, and one NC, in series with the motor switch (you can use three pin buttons with both sets of contacts). The second option is a 5pin window switch and connect it on relevant contacts. One warning though - it's not safe to put push-to-unlock-switch on the door. It can be easily pushed if you leave window open even with small gap.

It is mk3 one off the first one from assembly line and it is stage 3 with is20 turbo DSG i want to upgrade to is38 or garret powermax stage1 so i need bigger brakes

Stirling park and ride. Busy busy as a convoy of motorhomes roll in and fail to understand long vehicle parking is at the other end of the site. 4 rapid chargers. 2 not working. Scorchio.

I reverse things all the time, often thinking I mean the opposite and forgetting which opposites are actually correct. That's the lowest figure I've seen being quoted for this mostly I've seen 80% and recently 70%, as AGM batteries are said to be happy at 80% I'd have thought that'd be the figure but I forget things and who knows what figures VW set in their computer programs. I've no idea how accurate OBDEleven or other meters are and whether it's referring to state of charge or health but just having it plugged in will pull some little voltage in its use. For voltage see the VW and Ring figures and allow for any car electrics running and the OBDEleven but I'd have thought the OBDEleven would just show a voltage figure rather than percentage, if the 62% is state of health then the figure is more useful as a comparison against later figures and again how accurate is the figure and would it vary with another meter being used. Some posters have put they disconnect for very long periods and others have put not to as it messes with VW's computer programming and system running, I've not seen anyone putting the world has ended either way. I just leave it connected (generally switch off the start/stop each trip or engine start) and just do a few very occasional battery recharges using an appropriate battery charger maintainer having read the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger. This is because my wife's car regularly does very short journeys. It's not just journey length it's how much of the various car's electrics is used before the start, during and after the journey. As well as driving differently some people use a lot more than others. I think a coin-slot meter for battery use would be useful to teach some what uses how much, particularly for young pampered offspring. Attached will give you more info. - SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

I'm not familiar with the vehicle but that does look like a huge amount of work. Have you already removed the outer sill in that second pic? The sills are unlikely to be the limit of it. Is the car a treasure?

On my Karoq you can only do things via the touchscreen and I assume Kamiq will be the same

Thanks for the reply, I’ll have a look over there, cheers

I used to work for a company based in Ulverston and would have to travel up on a regular basis either taking customers up for a factory visit or to attend all sorts of meetings (I remember there is or used to be a crystal glass works there and I have been around there and watched the craftsmen create some beautiful crystal dishes etc. The hotel of choice the company used was the Swan, a few miles out of Ulverston at Newby Bridge, lovely place, top-notch food. The Swan Hotel And Spa | Tranquil Luxury | Newby Bridge

I'm just removing the pads when not in use as shown in my last picture above. The frame stays on, the pads are removed in seconds with a push button. Whilst the OEM ones do look neat, they don't look big enough to me.

I got so much to update, done my 1st service, some towing, and so on, but can't seem to find the time ... hope soon, to exchange impressions. In the meantime, I did manage to "unbling" part of the interior by removing the glossy, ghastly, gear knob cover. This is what I've chose instead, more to my liking ... little but 🤩 Hope someday to be able to do the same with the horrid 'piano black' trim, which I know many like, but to me it can't beat nice "wood" type finish.

Thanks, The problems have been the buttons on the steering wheel for the trip computer, and cruise control not working, the horn does and the whippers, amongst other things, give an error code all pointing to Clock spring not being coded or so my research would have me believe. Looks like I'll be visiting the Rosstech site and buying VCDS the local Skoda dealer quoted $180/hr and at least 2 hours without the guarantee that they'd be able to do it!

"Enjoying" the weather in Ulverston, I see Some years back there was (and maybe still is) a superb seafood restaurant right on the coast on the eastern side near Ulverston. If I can recall the name or look it up I'll post it. Found it: https://thebayhorsehotel.co.uk/

Hi & thank you!

The expensive Skoda ones, yes. Chances of finding anyone that is selling a set is next to impossible. Aftermarket ones won't b aligned to the headrest design.

It seems it confirms what I was saying... Jeremy Clarkson / Top Gear approved... 🤣

I find these Skoda online manuals really bad. I would really prefer a nice PDF one too.

getting closer. still in ordered status but today the trim level and other details became visible for the first time.

hmm, I *think* they're the plastic wedge type ones. The rail on the car has rectangular holes punched in it. I expect the wedge is square and gets wider when a screw goes in like a rawl plug, to give front to back adjustment for the panel alignment and then a firm grip when clamped. but I could be wrong.

I had to go to 3 different locksmiths myself, the locksmith that would do it was a local one man independent locksmith. The big chain locksmiths wouldn't even entertain the idea (Timpsons to name drop weren't slightly interested) That's Part of the reason I sourced parts like the blade and chip myself. Just to prove it can be done here is mine, that has the good quality blade in it as well(you can tell by the colour of the metal. I would show the chip inside, but it's a faf to open the key up. Bought it new or it's a It a modified octavia 3 rear wiper motor, I also had to make a custom mounting bracket, and wire in an extra release relay wiring system.

As stonekeeper states above, the 40 section was in a streetlit area, either side of the 40 limit is a 30 limit residential streetlit area. They only need to remove the 40's to make it a 30.

My last four or five cars have had start/stop and none of them have worked according to the manufacturers guidance, from Audi to Ford to Peugeot and back to Skoda. Do I care? Nope, I know that for the system to work the stars have to align and the gods have to be smiling. Seriously, don’t waste another second worrying about it. If your car runs ok otherwise then direct that start/stop worry elsewhere.

Right an update Think I have it sorted . Changed the pump for a gates pump Mil light still on Changed the plug and part of the loom Same problem . Had the old plug and part of the wiring So tested the pumps I had . Ended up with 4 1 the original .ran for a second if tapped and stopped . 2 cheap ass ebay pump 20e Ran when it got power constantly . 3 a vw pump using the original part number .was surprisingly cheap 40e but came in an original vw box all part numbers were the same and made by pieberg When it got power ran for a few seconds and came back on every 5 or 6 seconds later . 4 .the autofactors new part 130e made by gates .same as the timing belt manufacturer. Gave it power noting at all. Opened it up and spam the impeller with current still nothing Looks like it was a dud part . Put the no3 pump on. Ran the car for an hour Heater perfect Scanned the ecu and no codes at all

Followed the instructions. Didn’t have the pesky clip issue. All went smoothly apart from dropping a screw which I couldn’t find. All good thanks for the instructions and updates. 😊

Well after not having a scooter for about 7 years I treated myself last week to a 2020 Suzuki Burgman 400. Needed to upgrade all my riding kit as it shrank hanging in the wardrobe and new helmet. Found a scoot that I liked 100 miles away in Milton Keynes, deal done and I collected last Friday, so instead of a boring ride down the M1/M25 I plotted a lovely cross country route home and enjoyed the ride. Been out and about a few times over the last few days.

Fantastic service from PSiTuning, cannot fault them at all, so they’ve secured my future business! PSI 😎 Suppose I should have taken before and after photos, but the ride is all I needed to know how much better the setup is. Makes me wonder if the suspension on it was the original, I was expecting an increase in firmness of the ride, but it actually feels smoother. Seat Sport Front Upper Strut brace next to be fitted should be here tomorrow, purchased from Stoneacre in Doncaster. I have a Whiteline RARB to fit also, but waiting for my visit to Rustbuster before I fit that. Just a quick (2hrs) 🙄 clean today, think you can tell from my previous photos that it’s slightly lower.

There are these updates, but not sure if the higher number will apply to your system. MEN3_EU_SK370_P0113P_0469 MEN3_EU_SK370_P2135P_0742 MEN3_EU_SK370_P1185L_1760 MEN3_EU_SK370_P2345L_1790 The only one I would suggest is 0742 to try (it won't load if it's not compatible) If it doesn't load, then 0469 is your current version and the end of the line.