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Sounds like you should grab some wiring diagrams etc from erwin as you probably need to check for power, ground and CAN at each of the modules on the drive CAN-bus. Very loose positions of the modules:

Id echo the above and wouldn't mix two all season and two summer tyres. It probably won't hurt the haldex etc. but it could lead to some 'interesting' handling behaviour in wet or bad weather.

I really wouldn't fit all seasons on one end of anything with summers on the other.

yes I was starting from Livingston but I was addressing the original point you made at some point when this was a semi private argument between you and @Ootohere and yiu suggested that PFS were roadside whereas charging hubs tend to be further away and need a diversion off route. All of the PFS were away from my route and would have needed a diversion whereas the charger on my driveway needs no such diversion. I have found over the last 7 years of driving EVs that I tend to take comfort breaks only when on long trips and I choose to just add some charge while I'm doing that. When I;m in the diesel I don't fill up when taking a comfort break because the fuel is much more expensive in motorway service areas. The electricity is not, it costs the same on or off the motorway but if it was excessive there then I would have to divert off the motorway in the EV too. The VW has no sat nav but of course I could use my phone but I only do that when I need a sat nav, not when I know fine where I am going.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Have you checked for binding brakes?

i got one. pick it up Friday. 2021 superb Sportline plus tsi 190, virtual cockpit/tri zone climate/spare wheel and 19" supanova alloys.

Yes. totally agree outside your brackets. We are getting there. If we want to be 100% comparable, time to refuel liquid fuel should start ticking the moment car deviate from original route and end upon re-joining original route. It should include any time spent queuing should there be a queue and for long journey, any time spent going to the loo/herding passengers. Time to recharge is similar. Time starts from deviate from route and end upon re-joining. If refuel at petrol station is another stop (for cost), both comfort break + secondary stop should be counted. Same for EV recharging, it's only fair. But reality is that EV doesn't need this until more than 250 miles or 4+ hours have been driven (if driveway = true), whereas ICE must have minimum of 10min preparation before trip or otherwise when it needs refuelling is non-deterministic. Could be less than 100 miles into the trip and a comfort break isn't needed. The point is re-energise being slower from 5min (ICE) to 20min (EV) is not important if car is going to be parked for roughly that duration anyway. 5min at petrol station + 15min at service = 20min rapid charging at service. Similar amount of time not making progress. This question is better directed at @domhnall I'm afraid I have zero knowledge of what you are trying to do, I only have experience with Tesla. (and 2011-2016 era Nissan)

Just reviving the thread with a couple from yesterday after fitting a new wing mirror cover and gear knob top.

Update from my dealer, tge software fault is with the front assist camera on the windscreen. The fault update code is ...tpi2075197/3. my dealer says many dealers are pestering the brand for an update as this is a common fault

Hello and welcome Have you had the car scanned for fault codes? Have you tried resetting the HVAC vent flaps?: With regard to no pressure in the cooling system, has the seal on the expansion tank lid failed? Gaz

That sounds like two potential faults. Water pump failing and potentially the flap motor either failing or needs recalibration. Do you have a code scan of the car?

Thanks again to all who have contributed to the quest

Looks great IMO. I would happily have one. (A big issue for me is the Shiny plastic exterior bits for a car that will get dirty, salted and gritted roads so scratching unless the very very greatest of car is taken flushing off before and sponge or brush goes near it, or Snow Foam and clean off grit...) Obviously Autocar and others will go on about and they have already about range and not meeting official figures. Well they know they are based pretty much on 5 miles a kWh. Autocar / What Car and others are in the position to be putting the ridiculous WLTP regime results to the Prime Minister, the Minister for Transport, the Minister for Energy and to the SMMT and the Manufacturers and call for them to be looking at a way of testing BEV,s that are going to be Registered on UK roads and using Electricity from the National Grid. They will go on about the lack of rear space or boot space. Well as 2 seater or 3 seater they carry luggage, and they are a small car, 2 small people / AKA children might be fine, or an adult driver and 3 people if the driver does not need the seat fully back. 'Small Cars'. Small families, couples, individuals etc. ** Rapid charging is or was 50 kW, as has been the norm in the UK for years. The Small battery charges @ 80kW and the bigger one at 100 kW, so really Rapid +, or sub Ultra Rapid or what ever term that should be used.** But not really Ultra-Rapid, or Ultra-Fast. They is usually now 100 kW-350kW. No wonder people get confused over charging.

Correction. In case of Tesla at Tesla supercharger, No need to account for faffing about with payment, it is automatic and handled by the car. Plug and charge is coming for other vehicles on other network very soon. Don't forget Dom drives a Skoda, which (will?) support plug and charge: https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/emobility/just-plug-and-charge/ Also, time spent rapid charging should only be counted if needing to do any extra waiting after doing what one already need to do during comfort breaks, For example, if you run to the toilet and run back at midnight when it is empty and possible to do it in 5min, then the other 15 minutes out of 20min counts as charging time. But reality is typical service stop period is around 15min just for toilet at a leisurely pace. I have tried to hurry passengers whilst driving my Octavia and they didn't like it. Before buying full BEV for long trips, I've timed multiple rest stops and 15-20min is normal, <10min is only achievable if trying hard and very stressful for everyone. Looking at my trip log (TeslaMate), we meant to do a very quick toilet stop at the A82 service, no charging just stop, toilet number 1, comeback and drive off, at 3pm, still took almost 15min and parking cannot be any closer to the rear toilet entrance.

Just in case anyone else should have this issue in the future and come searching here, the lighting unit within the door trim needed replacing. I still had some Skoda approved used Warranty cover left on the car and they approved this as a warranty repair so I managed to get it done free gratis 😀

I have heard that this can be an issue but I don't know if it applies to a Kodiaq. It may only apply to full-time 4 wheel drives. I would be more concerned about having two different types on different 'axles' as the grip properties may be sufficiently different to cause handling problems.

Just a small point that people that drive the A720 City of Edinburgh By-pass know. If you are trying to go any place for a few hours from now and then again later this afternoon if you are moving you are not pulling off to get fuel and then trying to join again.

Technically speaking the car will tolerate changing tyres on just one axle but in my opinion it is not a good idea to have a large difference like brand new on one end and nearly worn out on the other. These cars are not full time 4WD which is why they don't have a centre differential, but that said, when transmitting torque to the rear wheels the difference in rotational speed between axles may cause 'some' extra stress on the drivetrain. I might be wrong and I may be over cautious but thought I would share my opinion, my opinion may also be wrong so take it with a pinch of salt.

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They were not skoda brand ,but does it really matter with rubber ones ,i went for good quality ones ,the boot one was from a good company and it was edged all the way round 👍

Thanks! By looking at it I feel like mine is more like the one I posted. It has a different aux pump for the turbocharger and when it's running the coolant flows through the expansion tank which it doesn't seem to do in this one

Michelin's take:- Thanks. AG Falco

Ah yes, the good old days! Still miss my 740 turbo I had with welded diff and 680.000kms on the clock! It handled like a boat but it was comfy, fun and went sideways everywhere. Also had a Saab og 9-3 aero 2.0t for a little while. Yes the consumer rights is one thing I love. I would never in my life start a second hand car dealership. The dealer I bought my previous octy from probably made a loss. They had to replace the battery, driver's seat undercarriage as there was excessive play in the height adjustment, bought it in winter with studded tires on and when I put the summer tires on I had vibrations, checked the tires and they had flat spots all four of them so they had to pay for a full new set to be put on.

Diesel RS has 60 l tank capacity. I do usually 75 km to work and the same back. Some urban driving included. The cluster shows the range 700 - 750 km. Couple of times a month I drive 1000 km a day. In these cases I have reached to the range of 830 km. All this in case you do not exceed 110 km/h. When I tow a trailer, range will vary between 580 - 660 km, loaded and uloaded.

UPDATE: We're going to get the battery fitted tomorrow and we've got a slot at an Auto Electrician on Thursday They're going to do some proper scans and hopefully narrow down what the fault could be (and they'll code the battery) They've been recommended by another Auto Electrician and apparently, they have the correct kit General Info - Throttle Body - OEM Part No: 04C133062C Parkway VW wanted £504 for the Magnetti OEM Part GSF wanted £370 for the same OEM part A trusted local motor factors quoted £590 for OEM and £219 for aftermarket All prices Inc VAT

It really really is simples, EV,s are clearly not for everyone and their needs and wants. Just do not get one if you do not want one. It is as easy as that. 'Just say no!'. Tell your MP your feelings on the 2035 or 2030 timeline ask them to remember and tell Keir, Angela, Rachel, Louise and anyone else.

Not for much longer!

Today's experiment: A 25 mile round trip this morning involving some sustained 70mph running. Pressures at the start of the trip were checked and correct (33 front, 31 rear) At the end of the trip, none of the wheels was especially or unusually warm. The pressures had risen to around 36-37 on both front wheels and 32 on both of the rears. The TPMS did not go off, for a change. I'll keep an eye on it.

Precat oxygen sensor is a wideband type, part number 036 906 262G Post cat is 036 906 262D, simple/binary type. Aftermarket prices tend to be pretty low on both, and sometimes you can find new genuine ones at good prices on ebay, I guess where people have bought and then not got round to fitting or suchlike.

Helpful after my fabia 3 fob stopped working. I replaced the battery 2025 with a tested one (3.2V). No red light, no response from car. Then I read this and wondered if voltage was all there was to it, so I bought a new Energizer battery from our local supermarket. Popped that in and after a few senconds, the fob's red light began to show. No effect on car so I also had to resynch it, but my fob is still working 24hrs on. I'm thinking that perhaps it's not just the voltage , but also the current (Amperage) that the new battery delivers which has an effect. I'm NOT going to set up a test rig to prove this hypothesis, but I hope it helps someone.

If that's a script then it depends if you trust the script. Personally I prefer to make the changes manually. If the battery is the same type and the same Ah capacity then in reality all you need to change is one digit of the serial number.

thanks for your mature and constructive contribution to the discussion

What's the engine size?

Put grease on white mechanism. You can reach it through left or center hole, in case you have a speaker you can remove it(left speaker mounted by 2 screws, center speaker by 4 screws). Once you reach white mechanism, hold tube and spray silicon into the tube, then change flow direction and spray again. Do it few times. I uploaded video how it works

so I no longer have a tesla, the "database" in my Enyaq is irrelevant, I was in my VW transporter which has no sat nav. I thought the Esso station you mentioned had closed years ago, it certainly was at one point, in any event that too would have required a diversion off route and then it's not on a junction so in heavy traffic quite awkwrd to get back on to my route. I drive a Skoda which simply involves plugging in and then walkign away, I dodn't faff about with payment, plug and charge does that for me. And I think at last you're beginning to grasp my point about time spent filling. At no point since I ditched the Nissan Leaf have I sat waiting for my car to complete a charge. Driving from here to Milton Keynes I stop at Carlisle. I plug in, go to the loo, grab a coffee and then unplug and go. I don't even drink the coffee at the chargepoint, I get on my way. Then I typically stop around the Lancaster area for lunch, Again, plug in, go into McDonalds, grab an (un) healthy meal, eat it, pee and then get on the road. That's it. Why on earth would I want to prolong my long journey by sitting fiddling with my phone or whatever. The only time I do that is if I have to join a meeting on Teams in which case I pull in and do the call while sitting still. If possible I do that at a charger so that I make most efficient use of the time. I have made plenty journeys in both vehicles. Regardless of fuel type I tend to stop at roughly the same places for the same time. But in the diesel I need to make an additional stop for fuel because as well as not havign a sat nav the VW also refuses to refill itself.

No leaks but no pressure seems to suggest to me that any pressure leak is likely to be happening above the coolant water line, otherwise you'd surely see liquid. Hence suspecting the header tank's lid seal. Being able to control the flaps would indicate it's not a generic code reader being used. Gaz

I believe coolant reservoir was complete with lid when replaced

OFF TOPIC I am always surprised at anyone in Sweden buying modern VW products with their history of past marques like Volvo and SAAB, I guess VW must offer your market more than in England and treat its customers better than in England (though generally English Dealerships for any marque can be poor quality). In Australia apparently Škoda new cars get 7(?) years warranty we couldn't dream of 5 let alone 7, yet some "cheaper" marques are able to offer 7 year warranties in England, been that way for decades that "cheaper" car manufacturers can offer longer warranties than the established "better" brands. I only put England as that is my personal experience from decades of the English motor trade. Doesn't help with your topic just my curiosity.

I asked them but they just told me they use stock axels on even the high hp builds, but told me to 02M swap it. I will 02M swap it when i start pushing more out of it but i would like some stronger driveshafts for that. Guess I'll just keep searching for a place in the EU that makes them. Not in a hurry but would be nice to know

Not sure where the Esso one is that you mention, I certainly never saw anything. The Sainsburys one is about 50m from the costco one but costs a lot more. I paid £1.22 a litre at the weekend filling up my son's fabia. My point is not the time it physically takes to put the nozzle in (I mean on that basis the ev takes seconds) but rather by how long is the journey prolonged by the fuelling process. In this case is would have been more than 20 minutes shorter had I been in the Skoda. As for the fire risk, you are far more at risk from laptops and phones that have zero thermal management. The stats from the insurance industry are perfectly clear. Fossil fuelled cars catch fire 20 times as often as battery powered cars. If you're concerned that EVs may somehow be more polluting I would be fascinated to understand on what basis that is.

Yes it stopped at 2017 I think. In that case, just aim for a 272/280. You will not regret it. We should all own a sleeper car (a warm one in this case ) once in our lives.

You don't say, have you tightened those 4 screws that were loose and still got a leak?

Take the chip off your shoulder @Yogi-Bear. It was NOT irrelevant, and my point was well made. I was in no way calling YOU stupid in that post. However your triggered response to my suggestion that there are careless morons out and about on the road, and guidance has to be issued with such people in mind, coupled with the fact that I'm having to explain the difference between understeer and oversteer in greater detail as you couldn't grasp the concept when I made the point in a sentence, is evidence that you might not be the brightest bulb in the chandelier. That's a YOU problem. 🤷‍♂️ I thought I'd explained myself pretty clearly here. Oh well, here goes again. Don't be replying to this post telling me you know all this already and don't need me to explain it at length, because that is literally what you just asked for. Put simply, it's because of lift-off oversteer. If a driver gets a bit out of shape in a car, they tend to brake, or at least lift off the throttle. This is well known, so most cars are set up to understeer if you go round a bend too fast. When you do slow the car that has lost grip in understeer, there is a weight transfer, with more weight put onto the front tyres, and less weight on the back tyres. As a result of this weight transfer, the front tyres grip more and the rear tyres grip less. (If you've ever ridden a bike, you should know all about weight transfer under braking.) All being well, the car slows a bit, more weight transfers onto the understeering front tyres, which (fingers crossed) get more grip, and the driver makes it round the corner with the rear of the car obediently following the front. If this doesn't work, then the car continues the understeer and goes in a straight-ish line off the road. This front grip gain and rear grip loss is exacerbated if you have tyres with more grip on the front, even before the weight transfer. So if you have less grippy tyres on the back, when you get into your understeer situation, your most grippy tyres at the front have lost traction already, and as you slow the car while trying to go round the bend, you will initiate the weight transfer. At this time, you will lift vehicle weight off the back tyres onto the front tyres, and while the front tyres may regain grip, the combination of less grippy tyres at the back and less weight over those less grippy rear tyres at the rear can provoke oversteer. Oversteer is where the rear of the car does not obediently follow the front, but slides outwards turning the vehicle more than required. Such oversteer induced by slowing around a bend is called lift-off oversteer. Here's a fairly mild example of lift-off oversteer which the driver, who by the sound of the engine is fairly enthusiastic, discovers lift-off oversteer. While he quickly catches and corrects it, he ends up on the wrong side of the road facing oncoming traffic. So to summarise: Understeer sends you in a fairly predictable straight-ish line off the road, and is easy to correct by simply slowing down, which most people do instinctively without training. Oversteer is less predictable, requires skill to catch and correct, and instinctive slowing down makes it worse. The more grip you have at the rear, the less likely you are to oversteer when going round a bend too fast. That is about as simple as I can make it.

Hi Davet30. If you consider yourself capable of DIY, I strongly recommend checking YouTube for possible solutions. This will give you an idea of the skills and materials needed, and whether or not you could be capable of executing an acceptable repair. Would DIY be up to the same standard as a professional job - probably not. Would anyone else be able to detect the repair - thats for you to decide after checking YouTube. Good luck, and please let the group know how everything ends up.

I've learned the other day also Mercedes had its failr share of silica-failures. So it must have been something ze Germans thought .... 🤪

The issue is that there have never been released OEM trunk handle RVCs of this size (90mm). If you do not want to cut your trunk lid then the only solution is to install aftermarket camera, e.g. LS8012 The biggest disadvantage of it is missing sprinkler which is present in most of 110mm wide OEM trunk handle RVCs - but to install OEM trunk handle RVC you must cut your trunk lid to increase the whole for trunk handle Coding is required in both PDC / PLA module and infotainment unit. Parking module (PDC / PLA) might require firmware upgrade or replacement, pls share part number of your current module. To have guidance lines you must add camera controller 7N0907441B.

I also had the foam desintegration issue, and what it does is that there is no proper air sealing when the flaps are closed. Meaning that you will close air to specific vents, and there will always be a small amount of air being blown. IMO, that won't, however, affect temp changes. I would check for a clogged heater matrix. Just flushing the coolant system might not be enough (been there, done that). Overtime, dirt accumulates inside the heater matrix narrow passages, preventing water from circulating. Despite the hoses getting hot outside, water won't flow. If this is the case, unplug the hoses and try using compressed air (carefully), in the opposite direction of water flow; also be careful with the valve described in the paragraph below, that needs to be open. There is another possibility. The temperature is regulated by a vacuum operated thermostatic valve (controlled by the temp setting), located in the motor compartment, in the heater matrix exit hose. I believe this type of heat control started being implemented during year 2000, so older models might not have it. If the air operated diafragm has ruptured, or there is a vacuum leak, there will be no temperature changes, as the valve won't operate. You can easily test the valve applying vacuum, as you can listen to it open and close. In either case, however, and despite water flow is blocked (by a clogged heater matrix or a non functioning valve) you could perhaps feel a mild temperature change in the air leaving the vents, as heat propagates through conduction to the heater matrix. One easily assumes that there are no temperature changes, as it takes a very long time for heat to reach the heater matrix, and any effect, however minor, to be felt.

Sorry for the delay, the post got missed. J179 Glow Plug Control Unit also known as a Relay Sits in the E box in engine bay Pay attention to the part ordering, as you can see, it was dropped on 01/04/2017 for part number 04L 907 282 B