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Ballcocks! A mate of mine taxied a Superb with Stop/Start in urban traffic and the battery lasted 3 years before the Stop/Start ceased to operate.

I've had 2 Octavias with start/stop, first one was on original battery when sold at 7 years old and second one is still on original battery at 8 years old - start/stop worked/works correctly on both.

I've owned 4 cars with stop/start, done ~60k miles in each over a 4 year period and never had one battery fail....

^^^^ rubbish on killing new batteries in 12 months. There will be plenty here that do not just switch off stop start when they start a trip and have batteries lasting the period of the Manufacturers Warranty on the car.

Perfectly normal and very common. If you search, you'll find plenty of threads about it on here. Gaz

The rear seat base is fixed in the MK3 Octavia.

I thought this was going to be such a pain to fix but it turned out it’s a 1 min job. I’ve followed the step from 10:55 from this YouTube clip. Removed the silver facia and the vent. Grab the switch and pushed it back into the position. Et voila !

Using Tesla for a few pence cheaper than the Council chargers just down the car park and without the often hassle of the chargers cutting out and charging a minimum £1 then when working being very slow. Lovely day but cold. Getting 3.7 miles to a kWh. Next charge in 90 miles and on cheaper council chargers if working, but they can be busy. A fast turn around of Tesla's charging.

I emailed the MD of Cariad. He replied saying his firm was NOT involved with the Superb software

I didn't replace the whole thing - just the sides bits, as shown in my pic. Removing the whole thing is a different story, and definitely not a 5 min job. My factory shifter is still in good condition. I only changed it cause I fancied a change, but OEM+ To remove, using trim removal tools - pop off the top DSG plate, then pop the sides off, one by one. Once off, the new sides simply click into place.

I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a VCDS module/cable from one of Ross Tech's UK distributors, having debated for some time about buying a used one from a certain online auction site. I had the engine light come up on the dash last week which was the push I needed to justify buying it. On plugging the cable in and running an auto-scan, it came back with a fault on the glow plug on cylinder 1. I then bought a set of 3 plugs and made ready to get them changed. I decided to take the car out for a short run to get her warmed up. I fired her up, only to find that the infernal dash warning light went off. Cleared the fault code, ran the auto scan again, no fault found. So, with a bit of time on my hands, I thought I'd take a look at making some adaptions as listed in the sticky on VCDS options. I haven't gone mad, but now have the following coded; 1. Disabled Stop/Start as it drove me nuts every time it kicked in. 2. Changed the throttle response to the Audi setting. I know some folks have reported they didn't notice too much of a change with this, but I feel it has definitely improved things. 3. Added Quantity to refuel on the dot matrix. 4. Enabled the "off road" display on the head unit-more for a bit of fun than anything. 5. I had wanted to get the fan switch to show the fan speed in auto setting, but drew a blank on that as the bit that needs enabling isn't present and requires changing in the long code as far as I am aware and probably a step ahead of where I'm at in learning how to use VCDS so it'll have to wait. I may enable the rear lights to come on as DRL's when I get 5 minutes but for now, I'm happy with the changes and I'll wait to see if the engine light comes back on!

Hi Guys Just thought I'd post this incase anyone else has it , I have had a knocking noise at the rear of my 2013 fabia that sounded like the shocks were loose or something loose around that area on both sides . I have had the boot empty inc spare wheel,rear wheel liners out to check shocks ,new exhaust rubbers blah blah blah . Anyway I was sat in the back seat last night while on the move and had my arm accross the rear seats as the noise started and its the bloody back seats rattling on the fold down clips/catches .. I have been chasing this for 2 years on and off lol . Think im gonna adjust the steel brackets that the seats latch to(big hammer) or get some sticky felt pads or similar to dampen them ... Hope this saves someones sanity ;-). Dave.

There is Government support available for this sector. For example all of the above companies have secured funding from the Automotive Transformation Fund, operated by the UK Advanced Propulsion Centre. The fund aims to establish a competitive and sustainable UK supply chain with a share of up to £1 billion of funding. However, the market for these industries remains highly competitive globally with other countries also seeking to support a domestic supply chain.15 https://researchbriefings.files.parliament.uk/documents/CDP-2024-0080/CDP-2024-0080.pdf

12 months ago

Thanks for the answers. I googled it just after I had posted and realised that it is about directional tyre that must be installed according to the rotation arrow.

Appreciate it

The 'Drop test' (usually called high rate discharge test) your garage mentioned will be good enough for a reasonable condition assessment - but needs to be done on a fully charged battery to be accurate.

Most Fabia III's have an EFB type battery fitted. If you now have an AGM type battery it would have needed to be coded to the car when fitted. Your Carista might be able to do it. Different batteries need different charging algorithms applied by coding the battery to the car. Thanks. AG Falco

If your car has automatic idle stop and the original battery was EFB (likely) your battery management needs to be adapted (coded) to the new battery. When fitted with a smart alternator, the BMS will control the alternator to charge the battery to around 75% - the remaining capacity will be via energy recuperative charging.

No for sales threads unless you're a FREEDOM (paid member). I'll leave this message here.

I wouldn't worry too much. The fabia has smart charging and doesn't charge the battery to 100%. Could be that.

@Graham Butcher If you have a 80 kWh usable battery and choose to charge on a 50 kWh max charger putting out less than that then getting 60 kWh of charge can easily take 90 minutes or more. 27.2 kWh took me 42 minutes charge time, that was charging to 93%.

If you purchase a directional tyre, it will become either left or right...depending which way you fit it to the rim. Once fitted to a rim, a directional tyre will be either a left tyre or right tyre...it can't be both. So if you purchase a directional tyre that has been fitted to a rim so that it has become a left tyre, you would have to remove it from the rim and fit it the other way for it to become a right tyre, ie. a directional tyre can be either left or right but not both...depending which way it is fitted to a rim.

It would not surprise me if farm chemicals mixed with mud and animal "output" was as corrosive as salted roads.

I don’t think there is a way to fold the seats up. I have a 4x4 too and I can’t do it either

I am thinking the Renault 4 will be the more useful car though I gather it might be more expensive R5 which is reverse logic. I think the 40 kwh LFP versions should sell well but dealers will push to the 50 kwh lithium I suspect. Be interesting to see prices and whether R4 is a good repayment for my Zoe.

I'd take a guess at using 'Dynamic' - which I'd think will reduce assistance as vehicle speed increases. I know almost everyone does it to an extent - but it's not especially good to wind on wheel lock while the vehicle is stationary.

Hello! This per-capita doesn't tell the story you want, so you choose a different number. Let's look at your number because your number is bigger, therefore worse. It's the definition of moving the goal post: https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moving_the_goalposts Of course total country emission will be bigger for a 21 times bigger country by population, 39 times bigger by land mass (using Google data). By simply comparing absolute total emission of a nation, are you also expecting numbers from Vatican to be comparable and useful here? Fact of the matter is, your initial post was done by manipulating the graph to get your favourable numbers. I showed the default graph with widely recognised comparable numbers (CO2 per capita). Carbon tax should be a thing. Too long humans have been digging up previously stored carbon and emit without consequences. There are real consequences widely recognised by scientific consensus. I think every single bit of emission need to be accounted and built into price of goods and services. Also, the fossil fuel industry talks big about carbon capture. Here's a perfect way to fund it right now.

The first link is a complete wheel AND tyre set, so it comes with directional tyres which must be fitted on the correct side.

My original AGM failed within 1 year - symptom was non-functioning stop/start, dealer eventually diagnosed faulty alternator and replaced both under warranty. The replacement EFB is still showing at least 85% health on test after 8 years and I always use idle stop apart from stops of less than around 10 secs.

I'd start with a deep load test on the battery. Here in the UK most places will do this for free conditional on you buying the new battery from them if needed.

1.3 = 340 mm at 2.37 kg 1.6 = 362 mm at 3.52 Kg The 1.6 spring is only 22 mm longer yet weights another 1.15 kg, the 1.6 spring must be heavier duty or different material than the 1.3 or the figures are wrong.

The Skoda parts catalogue shows that 6U0411105D is the standard front spring for the 1.3 petrol Felicia and 6U0411105E is the standard front spring for the 1.6 petrol Felicia. The Skoda parts catalogue lists a heavy-duty front spring with OEM part number 6U0411105D for the Felicia 1.3 petrol. This appears to be one weight range higher than the standard Felicia 1.3 petrol front spring, so could be used instead and shouldn't increase the unladen ride height...going by the below KYB RA2955 listing on autodoc. As well as KYB RA2955, Kilen 23107 and Lesjofors 4085708 should also match OEM part number 6U0411105D. Often, it's best not to purchase a spring that's sold to replace more than one OEM part number such as KYB RA2057. KYB RA2057 is sold to replace both 6U0411105E and 6U7411105B, and these are two different springs...so KYB RA2057 can't match both of these springs. I suspect it matches 6U0411105E but not 6U7411105B, due to its length of 362mm. However, if you do need a 6U0411105E front spring for a Felicia 1.6 petrol, it would be better to purchase Kilen 23103 or Lesjofors 4085703 because both of these front springs are only sold to replace 6U0411105E and no other OEM part number...so should both be an exact match to this OEM part number. KYB RA2955 heavy-duty front spring for 1.3 petrol Felicia (matches 6U7411105B) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6u7411105b?supplier[]=253&supplier[]=85&supplier[]=37

Replaced cylinder 1 glow plug as it was showing a light. Was well due. Came out easily considering it's most likely original. Might just replace the other 3, can't imagine they're far behind.

Well done if you have cracked it, I assume you have tried slowing down as if approaching a junction or roundabout in 3rd or 4th gear, dipped the clutch to change down with no engine cutting out.

I agree. Petrol stations used to be terrible for accuracy but they do seem to have improved a little. When I was in the trade I used to take the opportunity to use my MOT place's air line while my customer's cars where in their yard. (I used to always help them out with lifting, pushing dead cars, opinions and sharing special tools etc). I once found their air pump 9 psi high when I checked it later. To be fair they were quite ashamed and told me later on investigation they had found the needle on the gauge bent! Who can really say that their gauge uncalibrated gauge is true? I have a favoured gauge which has appeared honest over the years but I can only judge it against others that seem trustworthy and occasional TPMS reports as Ooopnorth says. 😊

Most people don't check their pressures often enough. Some garages, to compensate put them to the eco / full load / high speed pressures. I often hear ' but they were checked at the last MOT ' 😉 Thanks. AG Falco

I had a similar issue on a mk2 Octavia hatchback, where even the emergency release did not work. I used the estate emergency release instead, which is above that on the hatchback and uses a screwdriver directly on the release mechanism. Having freed the hatchback and checked the solenoid was working fine, it was still not opening without the estate emergency release. Further investigation revealed the the lever from the solenoid to the release catch was no longer aligned, it had moved forward so as to miss the release mechanism. With a screwdriver I pushed the lever rearwards at the fulcrum. That fixed the issue.

Thank you for your advice. So is this switch meant to be fitted from the front ?

The OP is in Ukraine so might want increased ride height rather than lowered ride height. Perhaps look at fitting over-size tyres to increase the ride height. If 165/70R13 are currently fitted, consider 175/70R13, 155/80R13, 185/70R13, and 165/80R13. Outside diameter of tyre 165/70R13 561.2mm 175/70R13 575.2mm (2.5% bigger outside diameter compared to 165/70R13) 155/80R13 578.2mm (3.0% bigger outside diameter compared to 165/70R13) 185/70R13 589.2mm (5.0% bigger outside diameter compared to 165/70R13) 165/80R13 594.2mm (5.9% bigger outside diameter compared to 165/70R13) Increase in ride height compared to 165/70R13 175/70R13 7mm 155/80R13 8.5mm 185/70R13 14mm 165/80R13 16.5mm If 175/60R14 are currently fitted, consider 165/65R14, 185/60R14, 175/65R14, 165/70R14, and 185/65R14. Outside diameter of tyre 175/60R14 565.6mm 165/65R14 570.1mm (0.8% bigger outside diameter compared to 175/60R14) 185/60R14 577.6mm (2.1% bigger outside diameter compared to 175/60R14) 175/65R14 583.1mm (3.1% bigger outside diameter compared to 175/60R14) 165/70R14 586.6mm (3.7% bigger outside diameter compared to 175/60R14) 185/65R14 596.1mm (5.4% bigger outside diameter compared to 175/60R14) Increase in ride height compared to 175/60R14 165/65R14 2.25mm 185/60R14 6mm 175/65R14 8.75mm 165/70R14 10.5mm 185/65R14 15.25mm Out of the above oversize tyres, I would probably go for 175/65R14 fitted to 5Jx14 ET35 4/100 57.1 steel rims from the Citigo although the standard 14" Felicia rims could also be used. Notice that the below 14" steel rim from the Citigo is very lightweight at under 6kg. Vredestein Quatrac 5 175/65R14 82T (Euro label D C 69dB) (3PMSF) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m137b0s7975p134030/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac5_Vredestein_Quatrac_5_175_65_R14_82T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_D_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB Alcar 6795 5Jx14 ET35 4/100 57.1 steel rim (from Citigo) (5.98kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=185473867710468708&rimCode=ALCAR6795 Skoda Citigo wheel trims for 5Jx14 ET35 steel rim 1ST071454C (1169CZK is about £38.43 for a set of four) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-indus-14/p/1ST071454C

Did a bit of a "Shifty" business today on Gandalf 😁 It now matches the look n feel of the steering wheel and seats. Less than 5 mins to swap it over. Sourced from AliExpress. Nothing wrong with old, nor was it worn out. Was just time for a change. Left pair = new perforated ones Right pair = factory original ones Fitted...

I really worry when I hear how infrequently some drivers physically check tyre pressures - and all fluid levels!

Very happy with my 72 plate VRs specced with all I wanted(winter pack, rev cam, etc) but it would take a bit to encourage me into the facelift… seeing the standard list price means options will easily push it over the luxury bracket, I just don’t think it’s that level of car

3 bar fuel system on your car, current part number of filter including pressure regulator is 6Q0 201 051H. You could change them every 20 miles if you were completely insane. Very little chance that there's anything wrong/degraded with the one you have on there, unless it has done huge mileage or been erroneously replaced with a 4-bar rated one. The other risk associated with changing is that you'll damage a seal on one of the bits of pipework. Really, unless it's the wrong rating (examine the ends, it's usually stamped somewhere), there's almost no chance whatsoever that replacement will improve anything.

Excellent work, good for another 200k km !

I've had 99.8% perfectly reliable car, the only issue I had was the infotainment system which kept freezing and restarting at random. That was resolved by installing 1941 software and was fine until a couple of updates arrived but as I had an issue with the virtual pedal, they updated all of the software and it was all good until they replaced a module and apparently did the wrong flashing on it, it has been absolutely perfect since. I've had no mechanical or engine issues whatsoever the performance of the car is spot on. But if you were to ask me would I have another one, then with a heavy heart I'd say no. Because I'm now very much solo and I don't need an Octavia sized car anymore. I need something VW Golf sized (Fabia) but they don't do anything RS in that so I'll be moving on. If you are a family man and you need a larger car for kids and dogs, then I'd suggest that you look for a MY23 car NOT a First Edition one. If you're doing loads of miles then consider a diesel rather than the hybrid as there do seem to be issues with them, the petrol version is excellent and on a good run I can achieve 42-45 mpg with it on runs to Nottinghamshire or West Somerset, South Coast.

@Frizz - U definitely do not have a pre-facelift Superb. Based on the 1st image, u have a Facelift Superb. The 2nd image is the headlight ballast - no point sharing that. No point following the coding @MartiniB shares, or shared as that applies to the pre-facelift Superb. This is the facelift Superb headlight.

Hi AMACk, From all the posts I have read on this topic nothing conclusive has been found out and all the dealerships find nothing wrong In my experience with my 23 plate I find the engine is not as tolerant as other engines/cars I have driven and cuts out when in a too higher gear when the revs are low. Mine cut out today when I was in 3rd and maybe I should have been in 2nd, other cars/engines it would have been fine, that's the best way I can describe it with my experience with this engine. All the best, let me know what you think

Good afternoon, my first post in a very very long time. Sadly the Audi failed it's MOT in September 2023, a couple of simple things and one major thing that put the car off the road. I had every intention of sorting it using secondhand parts, and had a workshop lined up to fit the required parts, BUT after months of searching I threw in the towel, that and I moved house from Dorset and my new house was miles away and i had knowhere to store it off road. The car sat with my old neighbour for several months, disappearing in the grass and brambles. I visited, got the car out and it still ran great, so put it up for sale. Car was collected 1 week later, and is now located in Solihull, the buyer is assesing with a view to putting it back on the road. They also paid a decent sum for a transporter to drive from Birmingham to Dorset and back again with the car. So this is the last post of mine regarding the Audi.