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EuroKneecap is increasingly obsessed with "controlling injury in a collision" rather than preventing the collision in the first place.

I did indeed, all the same, including in manual mode, though manual mode was a bit more "normal" feeling with less slip between upshifts. Reverse engages without issue or any slip. Yeah it did have 34h5 applied, the repair kit seems to have done the job anyway (assuming what I'm experiencing now isn't another mechatronics issue!) The car is coming up on 100k miles now (about 159k km) I'm going to try someone with VCDS to run a gearbox adaptation

You are right suspecting that it needs the clutch packs replaced, but maybe it needs just a reset of the DQ200 bite point. ? How many miles has it done? Was Service Campaign '34H5' ever carried out since 2017, this was a Software Update as a preventative against the issue you had with pressure and cracking / leaks or failure of the accumulator?

Have you tried the different drive modes? How does it react when reverse is selected?

A couple of shots from a local flower show and a quick visit to Beamish

It looks like £1 to me. 😉

Just wanted to thank @MartiniB - I very nervously took the plunge and had my garage fit the Eibach Pro Springs he listed for the Kodiak. I fitted these because I didn't want to lower the car. Mine doesn't have adaptive ride so I fitted the Bilstein B6s. I cannot recommend this upgrade enough. The car IS firmer - but there is no float, no wallow. The body control is superb, it corners so well. Where I live there a couple of roads that really find cars out. And they really did find out my Superb before. Now, it is genuinely a different story. Thanks - and I am so delighted I did this. J

Forgot to answer your question, yes once there is insufficient charge in the battery the engine will stop because the computers wont like it. "12 volt battery faults are the most common cause of breakdowns" and as your case it's very, very rarely the of the 12v battery (most usually the cause is owner/driver use. abuse and neglect of the battery). - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes

Hi, welcome. Starting the car is only one part of the issue, and not so draining as in past decades but a diesel does take more to start. If the alternator is not topping up the battery then of course the battery will drain. You can reduce the amount the battery drains by reducing the load on the battery with no or reduced use of the starter motor (deactivate start/stop), air-con, blower motor, heated anything, radiator fan (do not get the engine too hot), wipers and lights (where safe), anything you have added to the car, infotainment. You need to fully recharge using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for its use in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instruction booklet. You want to fully recharge the battery after each car use. If activated the start/stop would be the first item to show low battery by not operating when it should, perhaps you may get all sorts of unexpected of messages and/or warning lights and unseen error codes, the computers do not like the battery in a low state of charge and may make you suffer for it. When you have the alternator sorted as suggested get all error codes cleared. I do not know but I would guess if the power steering stops then you are very low and difficulty starting the engine may soon follow. Be careful to check you do not accidently use electric when you do not need to or accidently leave any electric running, Bear in mind the car's computers and alarm system run when the car is parled up so even more reason to fully recharge the battery and use a battery charger maintainer to maintain the charge level. I had an alternator failed whilst on a driving tour weekend and I would have been fine but I forgot to turn off my headlights once we got out of the mist, but this was on a very old car with very, verry little electric load and no computers at all (oh, for such days again).

@robinwa as @petrolcan says, with the note that. once the alternator has been replaced, it might be good to have the mechanic scan the car and cancel every error message recorded, on the basis that the underlying cause of them was probably the alternator fault.

It should keep running just fine. Bear in mind that your ancillary systems wont work as the battery runs down, your power steering will die too as the battery discharges.

Probably smart people with a degree, note books, slide rules and computers came up with them. Now just the computer and AI can do it. They can maybe also bother actually checking the tyre pressures and adjusting them which is more than many drivers do.

The rain finally stopped today so I went for a Sunday drive

I picked up my new Octavia Sportline in Royal Green a few weeks ago. I haven't yet seen another Skoda in this colour, not on the road or at a dealership. Has anyone else got one in this colour or seen another on the road yet?

Hi, writing this out since nobody replied to my previous posts with any information that would help me and will also possibly clarify some things to others. I went to get my car battery replaced by a mechanic that was recommended to me, supposedly he had equipment necessary to code a new battery for a Škoda Octavia Mk IV. When I met him I told him my concerns and he guaranteed me that he is able to do it. He simply disconnected the old battery and reconnected the new one, without any power supply keeping the car modules powered. He also needed to take out part of the air filter intake assembly for putting in a new battery, then he "coded" the new battery on some red tablet with a proper looking OBD cable. The tablet put out some beeps that would indicate that the coding was not a success but I didn't say anything since I didn't want to be a smart ass. When the car was turned on there were of course 20 warnings but after driving for like 50 meters they all disappeared. When I came home I connected my VCDS only to find out that nothing was coded. I did not want to go back to that mechanic since he obviously didn't know what he is doing. I tried buying a SFD token service (one more shady looking than VAG logins) but it did not work, got scamed for 10€ but whatever. My friend came over later today and he has a CARISTA evo module with a subscription. At first we couldn't change the battery coding, but when he read and deleted all the diagnostic error codes, he was able to change it, and I was able to verify it with my VCDS clone from aliexpress. I am pretty sure a OBD11 would also work for this - random tip, on the OBD11 website, register, put OBD11 with the VAG subscription in the cart, and don't buy it. Wait for an email from them and they will give you a 10% discount. I am now very happy and satisfied. It is very noticable that the engine starts up quicker (like 1/2 second sooner), and with the VCDS I also looked at the analysis of starting behavior, and the starter draws a much higher current, while also creating a smaller voltage drop on the battery. The internal resistance as shown by VCDS is also much lower. Will keep you updated how long the AGM battery will last me. Cost-wise, the 72 Ah AGM battery was 160€ while I could get an EFB battery of similar capacity for 100€. Dealer's garage would charge me around 300€ without them being able to tell me if they will put a cheapo EFB or an AGM battery.

Yeah; I was more commenting that you were catching a "nominally faster car" through that section. On-board footage would help more with technique, but I suspect lots of you were too fast through the RH apex so couldn't make the LH and were late on the throttle for the following straight. I've no footage, but I do remember seeing one guy at the old Ingliston (Royal Highland Showground) circuit trying to be too fast through one corner, running wide and not getting on the power until he was halfway to the next, which then became flat for him where faster drivers (including his teammate) were slower through the first apex but faster to the second turn in point to the extent of needing an audible lift through it but being faster down to the hairpin braking point, maybe 1/3 of the lap distance.

I'd not worry too much about missing the LH apex at those esses; lots of other people were doing that too, and you were definitely taking distance out of that RX-8 through the esses.

There is an individual mode where steering, engine, AC and suspension (assuming you have DCC?) can be configured independently. The car can only be in a single mode at any given time.

I think he means £200 more than the non-edition what’s left in existing stock models

Yes indeed @TanvirK just the one pump sorted all problems. Front, rear and headlight washers all working. I assume it’s the “master” pump (both water and electrical) and sorted everything.

Glorious autumnal colours this afternoon 🍂

Yes those are the warnings. My dealer says driving with those systems out of action could be unsafe. They also say driving a car with those warning lights on would fail the MOT and could invalidate your insurance The dealer also says : "Skoda have told us that the software fix will be released for the UK in week 45. This is week commencing 4th November. We have no fixed date ! They have said that this is a over the air update (the car will update itself) but the dealers will also be able to “push” the fix to the cars."

Hi, only needed to replace the pump located behind the wheel arch. Bit of a faff to replacing it but ultimately sorted the problem.

Hi folks. It's been around 8 years, but I'm back now. With a new ( to me anyway) Skoda Superb. Looking forward to catching up and finding out what's what.

The legal argument is, "the product is not fit for purpose ". If the safety systems are not working it is not fit. If you have a warning light on your dashboard the car is illegal to drive, it will fail an MOT. That is why my dealer has the car, given me a courtesy car since July and won't release it back to me

Its packed and ready to ship tomorrow! I will post pics once it arrives! Thank you all so much!!!

I made a start on the welding today, I worked for about an hour and hilariously have only managed to sort out THIS much of the welding. But the front right, is that much less likely to fall off, so I can't complain. Now I've broken the fear of touching the car with plasma I can get on with sorting out the rest of it. I can't leave this post without the result though, can I. so ok, here it is I wonder if that will do.

Are you sure about that? I have a feeling that all diesel Yetis had Diesel Particulate Filters.

I put 40k on an SKF one when I had my octavia, without issue if that's any help. They're easy to change, but you will need the right socket and a decent impact gun.

Not yet, will let you know.

I notice that the picture you are showing is a 4 stud wheel bearing, as your car is a 1.6 it should be a 3 stud bearing, my car is a 1.6 and that is a 3 stud, I fitted a Febi on not had any problems.

Interesting, My 2.0 tai 190 has very soft rear springs when loaded it’s not good. Just checked and label on the springs is jq0511115 AJ, coil 11.8mm in diameter , so weight 2. So no wonder it’s soggy. It’s a 2021 with 21k, so thanks for your info and I will be getting some AL springs. ie + 10%. Ian

To quickly and easily identify the issue you could purchase a stand alone GPS antenna with a Fakra (?) connector and connect this to your head unit. Bypassing the roof mounted unit.

Then you need to update your profile information as it says you have a 2006 Fabia.

you've not found my video coming back up the M1 only to find they closed the A1 and I had to turn back at Cockburnspath and head back to Berwick and go inland to get back to Livingston? In an EV , th e shorter range Enyaq

I bought a set of those orange interior trim tools off eBay for a fiver. Our boot lock release needed replacing (quite easy really) earlier this year. From memory you just press in from the 'forward' edge first when refitting and work your way out. It should snap back into place when you tap it with the side of your fist.

I’ve owned/driven both the 1.0 110 and 1.5 148 hp Kamiqs and the difference is negligible. Yes, the 1.5 picks up quicker but that’s where the differences end. The 1.0 110 hp is brilliant on motorways and hills, and it’s a complete red herring when people say it isn’t. Brilliant engine,

An expansion tank allows the coolant to do what it says, expand when hot. As long as it returns to the same level when cold it isn't anything to worry about.

Change of heart, I can't bring myself to scrap the old girl, I'd rather get an MOT and sell it to someone who can get a few more years out of it. Parts for the MOT came to £300 with labour likely to be £500+, a sale in the current climate should cover my costs and help towards something else.

I just replaced mine. Mechanic friend said go for Febi,NKor Apec or blueprint and avoid the unknown or cheaper brands. Their garage stopped fitting a lot of the cheaper brands due to the fact they don't last. Been using company Parts in Motion. A lot cheaper than Eurocarparts and my local motorfactors and so far have had next day delivery. I had to buy a set of triple sqare splined sockets to do the job and also a new ABS sensor as I managed to snap mine. https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/search?keyword=wheel+bearing&virtuemart_category_id=0 . Need to do my sons fabia as well but its a push out and press fit so waiting for the tool off amazon. The bearings were half the price from Parts in motion. On my old 08 octavia there are two options. One with 3 bolts and one with 4. Check before ordering Alasdair

Sorry just thought it relevant if someone wanted a decent range and a lower ved than an ev 😉

Update. Contacted Skoda Customer Care. The case handler tried very hard but kept hitting brick walls. I asked them to escalate to their manager and after contacting both my local Skoda dealer and the dealer I bought the car from, Skoda UK authorised the warranty claim. So although it took a while a successful outcome in the end.

My calendar says "It's Autumn". Has your regular filling station maybe started supplying "Winter diesel" early (relative to weather)?

Thanks for checking when you got the car. I knew I wasn't imagining the change in comfort.

Glorious again this afternoon.........

Macduff across from Doune Parrish Church. The church also gets lit up.

No, the ACC has control of the brakes, and so will control the speed of the car down a hill by applying those brakes, even if there is no other traffic around.

This only happened to me yesterday. 2016 190tdi. I parked the car in the garage and after a while I heard the fan running, thought it was a regen but odd that it started after car was switched off. It kept going so I realized it wasn't a regen as that normally results in a smell. Anytime I opened the drivers door the fan stopped. Once the door was closed for 20/30 seconds it came back on. The fan kept running so I parked the car outside and then it stopped. Later that evening I switched on the ignition and the low battery warning triangle flashed up. I turned the ignition off and on again and no warning. Car started fine today and no issues. Battery has never given any problems either. Maybe the relay is thinking about dying! Interesting to find this post👍