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I doubt we will see such a long range car. Most people don't need that kind of range so there is no market, unless he manufacturers get into a range war. Such a car will need 120-150kWh batteries that will be too large, too heavy and too expensive. The challenge now is to improve efficiency to real world 4+ miles/kWh which would give a 60kWh battery 250 mile range - plenty for most at 4-5 hours of driving. Improved efficiency allows for smaller (easier to package), lighter (more efficient) and cheaper batteries to make EV more accessible. One thing having an EV has shown me, I don't need more than 250-ish mile range.

I am very new to the ev life but what i do notice in Macmaster videos is He always seems to get up in the morning needing to charge the car? He always seems to charge to 100%? He always shows the car starting to charge and shows it starting then goes away? He always comes back just before 100% and shows the speed of charge then? From other bloggers this is stated as everything not to do.

I'm a bit embarrassed to say that I might have been worrying too much about the fuel gauge reading! Just filled up today and it only took 10 litres of diesel. I thought it might have taken more. Thanks for all your input on the matter.

Self levelling can be put into a mode that allows the resting beam height to be set using either VCDS or OBDeleven or a similar VAG friendly diagnostic tool. When in this mode you adjust the beam using the adjusting screws on the headlamps themselves, and then exit the setting mode to remember the new setting.

I can understand the needing to charge in the morning thing, if he has had a long day the day before, the last thing he wants (I wouldn't anyway) is to add any more to it by charging before getting home, especially when he has a home charger, which is an AC charger so a slow charge and as such will not add that much to a battery that was already low from the previous days trip. The 100% charge is acceptable if as has already been mentioned many times, you need the range that day and he does indeed cover some miles for his blogs. Walking away while charging? What's wrong with that, I think most people would do that unless they take a flask of coffee etc with them. If you want to go and have a pi$$, you have to walk away and leave the car? Anybody who has ever charged any form of a battery already knows that as it gets, fully charger, the speed drops 0ff, only an idiot would think that it always charges that slow speed all the time. I've said it before, and I'll say it again here, who has an ICEv and only ever fills the tank to 80%. Nobody.

What inflator are you using? Like others I had to bring my non-Skoda supplied one over the rear seats (it's an estate) and through the cabin and out through the passenger door, still didn't have much to spare.

It sounds like it had lost oil pressure when the knocking began. Was the oil light illuminated? I think the 15 min of driving with the knocking engine might be the downfall here. Maybe it would have been pertinent to stop and check it out... Did they say what had actually happened? Was there any oil in the engine or was there a big mess under the bonned. Maybe the oil filter came loose or the sump plug fell out. Even an obstical punctured the sump. If it were the oil filter or sump plug you may have recourse on whoever serviced it last. I would investigate that as a priority. I don't think there is much blame on the brand at all. No engine will live long with no oil pressure.

I order an 85 edition at end of December dealer e mailed me yesterday to say it is produced and preparing for transport to uk

I purchased the car a few months back (driving back home, it averaged around 7.5 L/100km), and it was already smoking then. After checking the vehicle at a technical inspection place, it ran way too rich. (too much unburnt fuel exited the exhaust). It also started icing (I believe). The throttle becomes unresponsive, the car starts jerking and eventually dies. After a few minutes of standing, it's fine again. So I took the carb apart completely and put in new gaskets. The idling problem was occurring then as well but mostly when the CO screw was turned out only about 2 turns and the car wouldn't turn off when the idle cutoff valve wire was pulled. The base gasket was in bad condition, but I couldn't find a new one, so I used Victor Reinz gasket maker (which @RicardoM recommended in another forum thread). After fixing the gasket, the engine would shut off when disconnecting the wire. Not the same case when turning in the CO screw (it should cut off fuel). It only died when the idle screw was set so low that it just didn't have enough rpm. Also changed the head gasket (quite new looking) and manifold gasket (pretty rough). Before changing the head gasket, some white residue would collect underneath the oil cap after driving (occasionally) but disappeared after standing still for a night. Oil seemed fine. Dont know what was done previously with the car. Only has 100k km. I haven't driven it much, only a few hundred km, since I want to fix it. Pictures are taken without the air filter on. I also changed the distributor cap, spark plugs and wires and the belt.

What's the pressure cap like and what's your cleaning like. Was the "glitter" put in by the shovelful then, how much was in that could work its way up to jam the pressure cap. If there was that much it could jam the pressure cap I would have thought (but don't know) that would be enough to see or scrape out but if you are worried sure the best remedy would be to replace the pressure cap with a good quality new one then you can fit it and forget it - well at least until the cap wears or is faulty or there is another issues that could involve the pressure cap.

Indeed it slows down but the variety of charge rates, which we call the C rate ie ratio of kWs in relation to the kWh capacity of the battery does vary widely. Shortly after commencing charging ie around 10%, my Scenic 60 kwh nominal is charging at over 2 C. Even at 96% SoC it is charging at 0.8 C Some EV barely make 1 or 1.5 C at any point and are down to 0.2 C in the 80s or 90s % so a wide variety of charging rates out there.

Hi, Do you mean this kind of old haunted castled creaking door sound? I've this too for 2 weeks. MY18 TDI190 / 131000km in the clock... Not tried to fix it yet...

For sure they dont want to sell cars, only finance, they want even less to have to repair them but have no choice, so they keep increasing the stupid parts and repair prices up for as long as people are willing (daft enough) to pay them. They must have special training in keeping a straight face. Before VAT when there was purchase tax on new vehicles you could buy all the component parts of a car (purchase tax free) and assemble the vehicle yourself at home for a great saving, I'm not talking about kit cars although that is what created the industry but production vehicles notably the Morris Minor, I also knew people that built MK1 Escorts from a new shell and all new parts cheaper, both got new registrations. If that were to be done with a modern car just buying the gearbox or rear differential on a 4x4 variant plus a pair of matrix headlights would take you way over the price of a new vehicle

On modern cars it can damage the Evaporative Emission Control System (EVAP)

If anyone wants an idea on size, it's probably worth driving an Enyaq. They're built on the same platform, same wheelbase and if you check the sizes, they're pretty well identical in all measurements with the exception of length, where the Enyaq is about 5" longer, which all seems to be in the boot. I had an email from our dealer today to say "the" Elroq will be with them 14th March to 19th March. I suspect that it wasn't our Elroq, rather a demeonstrator for the dealer, but seems strange if they only have it for 5 days. You would have assumed that the Dealers would get a Demonstrator each, rather than having to share 🙃

This time of year, no chance, think it has done about 200 but back in September it was doing 246 miles and still had 30 miles left on the range meter and as I said I have done 12 miles past zero and it did not even come up with the restricted performance until the last mile. All done on Motorways or dual carriageway but cruising mainly around the 60 mph mark. It is very much as I expected and how those you don't drive at or above the NSL as they will see much less than WLTP. The strategy for getting around the WLTP are well known. Get the small ie narrower tyre options, that is 19s 205s and not the 20 inch 235s. Have the rears at around 40 psi, brake using regen rather than sudden and harsh brake pedal usage. Speed has a cube relation to aero drag so settle for a mile a minute average. Look forward to warmer weather when range will be much better, about 15C seems to be the start of the sweet temp. One can help the battery achieve better in range temps ie charge as close to leaving on the journey. When the battery is cool but fully charged be gentle on slowing as regen will not top up a cold battery ie only 10 kws of regen works and not 30 or 40 kws when battery is warm. Proper for the tyres too of course. Stay relaxed and think about the driving process and where best to stop of one needs too considering battery temp, SoC, cost and reliability of public chargers if needed. It can be quite an enjoyable game like chess I find as well as cheap motoring, at least on the running cost if not the monthly PCP etc.

I agree the correct term is immigrant but I use the term ex-pat on this forum as it is what most Brits are familiar with. Funny how 'immigrant' is a perjorative term in the UK for many. The guy is completely reliable btw. I've only been in France since 10th and I'm already totally p*ssed off with the bureaucracy. Spent hours manipulating files to send to ANTs today. Everything must be under 1Mb. Had to buy some s/w

Easy use cameras if you get one of the point and shoot one and instant results, replaceable batteries or rechargeable, maybe a lead needed to plug into another device if no Bluetooth but as long as not to many settings just child's play. Like EV,s really, which is much like an Electric Kart or even a dodgem. No electricity no go. Added complexity maybe rather than just kept simple.

Quite, the possibilities with a digital camera far exceed those that you can do with a film camera right from just clicking the shutter you have more options and then even more after post editing in less time and better results than you'll ever get with a normal consumer film camera

Welcome to the forum. Confused by Central Scotland being cold and dark and you getting a Graphite Grey car. But at least you never got a white one so that it gets lost in Snow drifts.

Says the same for me. So the Škoda Website can't decode Škoda VIN's, but numerous 3rd party websites can....

Well obliviously something is wrong. A litre of oil in a month is excessive consumption. Assuming you dont drive 10000 miles in a month. 184hp 2.0 tdi can use any VAG 507 specified oil.

Race blue!

Just spoke to my dealer they confirmed my vehicle is currently in status 20, which a quick google suggests it is within the production phase.

Update.......... During the frosty weather the selection of first gear became so difficult I had to do something about it. I guessed it must be something to do with the oil becoming too thick during the night in the cold temperatures, because the gearchanges became easier after a few miles of driving. After doing some research I found a German brand of oil which was developed for VW gearboxes like this one so I bought a litre of it and arranged for my local garage to change the oil again. The garage advised me not to buy more than one litre because it would be enough even though the capacity is meant to be 1.1 litres. The transmission code shown on the boot floor sticker is QAE I'm pleased to report that the gearbox is now changing gears much more smoothly and so far I haven't been locked out of first gear like I was before. The oil that I bought is this one and it cost £21.95 Liqui Moly - Top Tec MTF 5300 70W-75W - Fully Synth. Transmission Gear Oil - 1L I should also mention that the garage said the filler bolt was so difficult to undo that there was a real chance of breaking the filler, so they had to remove the reverse sensor switch and fill the gearbox through that instead. I hope this helps someone else in the same position as we were almost considering selling the car at one point but using this oil has made it pleasant to drive again.

May be ignition switch. If the lights come on then it could be the part of the switch that starts car has failed. Read on here someone with same problem. Mechanic by passed starter section of switch with button till he got a new one. Alasdair

Possibly an optical illusion.

Hi, I am sure, as to bee seen on the attached picture 3 components has "cracked" and are lost from their position. Cheramic capacitors may be sensitive and can easily be damaged without any dramatic force. The job to solder 3 capacitors are very easy, but i need to know new the values. Reading the datasheet for the ATMEL IC gives a hint, but not exact values. Do anyone have the schematics and/or BOM for this PCB? @J.R. Where are the RFID capsule located?

Had a look at a pretty good video for the Autophix OM126P, it showed it for American IM readiness, looks like you get a lot for around £30 and nicely designed, one vid had you get free lifetime updates I don't know if that applies to UK or not, freeze frame and live data will be useful. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsfvtdCTukk Usual advice with code reader make sure it is fully updated before you plug it in. The limits might be that this is a generic code but the vehicle has also registered an issue by throwing up a couple of warning lights. P003A - "What Does the Engine Code P003A Mean? Character "P" in the first position of Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) represents the powertrain system (engine and transmission), "0" in the second position means that this is a generic OBD-II (OBD2) DTC. "0" in the third character position in a DTC indicates that the fuel and air metering and auxiliary emission controls is experiencing a malfunction. The last two characters "3A" is DTC number. OBD2 Diagnostic Trouble Code P003A means that Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control 'A' Position Exceeded Learning Limit has been detected. How Serious Is the Code P003A? This issue is critical and can lead to damages in your car. Please clear it first, drive your car for a couple of days. If the issue reappears, Carly recommends to fix your car to resolve this issue." - https://www.mycarly.com/obd-codes/p003a-turbochargersupercharger-boost-control-'a'-position-exceeded-learning-limit/ Have you driven the car and put it under a bit of load say going up a hill or pushing the turbo with higher revs in a gear higher than you should be in to see if it's under performing? Car running well being a VW always makes me think of potentially computer brain-farts and perhaps electric, wires, connectors etc.. Did you delete the error code after the old off-'n'-on-agen failed? A higher level scan tool might give more info and detail. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCDvnHKM6m0 The alternator can't do much if the car's not running, 70% /12.35v isn't low (particularly if you go with the 12.4v / 80% but why not fully charge the battery to 100% with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for the car in the Owner's Manual and for the battery charger maintainer and recharge at a lower rate (of amps) over a longer time as possible. When the car has an issue(s) it's best to have the battery in the best state of charge possibly, particularly if the issue involves computer, electrics, engine starting as this can help with diagnostics and repairs whereas a low state of charge can hinder diagnostics and repairs. (I know you know this, put for other readers.) ETA: IIRC(?) throttle body issues were generally with 2019 cars

It was an over the air update from about 2 weeks ago. They have not done any updates this week whilst they had the car

A driver / vlogger that has shown elsewhere that he knows how to drive economically over long distances in various vehicles including diesels.

Scan tool is Autophix OM126P. Can do live data. 1 x DTC logged (twice) is P003A - turbocharger boost control A position exceeded learning limit. No other DTCs logged. I haven't cleared the fault yet, as it is in for a diagnostic check on Friday. No recent work under hood, apart from usual oil and fluid checks since oil service last June. Battery is original EFB and standing voltage is a little over 70% (12.35V) vehicle has not done much running since Christmas - although I wouldn't expect the smart alternator to maintain charge level much higher than it is.

Ordered 10th December, 85 with advance package. Still not had a build date

It would seem that charger throttling is real and it all depends on the size of the incoming supply, the number of cars and their SOC, being charged at the time and depending on where the charger is and the total local demand in the area at the time which may cause a slight volt drop, i.e. is it summer with low power demand, or is it winter and in the middle of a deep freeze like it was recently and the local houses are all running on electric heating. I have seen many videos saying the same thing, including I seem to recall Dave Takes it On says it is a real thing and also a whistleblower at Grid Serve said the same thing. As a matter of interest, at the first charge point, Ionity in Leeds, they only have 6 chargers and at Porsche South Lakes, they only have 3 chargers. I only watched at this point the 1st video as I find I can't watch him for too long and that one was 53 mins long, the 2nd one is 39 mins long.

It is just the strange clicking noise, dont know where its coming from, but I guess it is not normal as the other windows act normally...

My update in the beginning of December seems to have sorted out the problems. The car is permanently online, Skoda have a server in Germany, the cars talk t that. There are updates on line but this update is very large affecting various safety systems and has to be done at the dealers. I have had no problems with doors. Mysoftware version is 2460 it was one of the the first cars apparently, the software update doesn't seem to alter the software version number Hope that helps

Is yours just a reader or fuller scan tool? Have you done the driver/owner checks yet? Any work done on the car recently, or elbows in engine bay? Without codes and better still live data there are so many possibilities. Might even be something as simple as a quick spray of GT85 around the throttle pedal. I'll take it that it is fully and properly serviced and maintained in a timely manner - and that the battery is in a good state of charge. 😄 There been a few threads on 2018s but not these two lights IIRC(?) more issues with 2019 cars IIRC(?). See what tomorrow brings. Good luck. I know these things have to be sorted ASAP as a distress call from the Boss means immediate attention and attendance usually at most inconvenient times but saying so only makes matters worse. 🫠

I can recommend both. Which is no help at all. When the weather is bad, ie the winter months, we use the rubber mats. Especially as we have to pick up grandchild from school and she is a mud magnet. When the weather is dryer IE the summer we use the carpet mats. On the whole, we don't keep swapping it is rubber in the winter, carpet in the summer.

I'm thinking of going down route of fitting just the towbar, and leaving the electrics for now, because I've checked and there is no factory fitted towbar prep. It is a westfalia towbar I've seen for sale anyhow, so good to know.

Ah, that's a good point. I bought an estate in the end 😁

We made an appointment with our dealer on 21st December to go into the showroom on 27th Decemer to order our Elroq. Things didn't quite pan out like that and we finally ordered on the 7th January. The point though, is that the 0% PCP Deal with £3500 deposit contribution was showing on-line prior to the 21st December or we wouldn't have moved when we did. We've had no documentation from Skoda Finance to date, but I'm sure if there was an issue, they'd have told us. We did have contract information from Skoda UK confirming the order on 10th January and the same day, again from Skoda UK, an invitation to spin the wheel and win free miles, with a confirmation on 11th January, that we had wone 2000 miles. Hope that helps

I ordered end of December. Told April. Now have build date in February, so April still estimated for delivery. At the time of ordering the PCP deal wasn’t 0%, but also the dealer wasn’t able to get the finance sorted because the model didn’t exist at the time. So now I see the PCP deal is better, can anyone who’s ordered tell me if you’ve got finance deal documents yet? Also the free miles offer …. I haven’t had an email from Skoda about that - is this something the dealer has to sort too? thx for help

Nope.

Finally plucked up courage to order. 85 Edition, Velvet Red Metallic with Maxx pack. Dealer was hopefull we could get it before 1st April to avoid the Expensive Vehicle Supplement for year 2 - 6, although no guarantee.

Almost ordered. Wanted 85 Edition, Suite, 20" wheels and Maxx. Had an appointment with the sales guy at the local retailer, but he didn't turn up as his wife had a baby the night before so can forgive him for that. Decided then to wait until they're in the showroom as I fancied Timiano Green but wanted to be sure before I ordered.

Was there any discount on the RRP?

The youtube videos made by ross-tech that Nige linked in his post above do a much better job of explaining everything than mere words or pictures can.

Engine: Racingline Stage 1 remap (self flashing tool) with TCU flash for the increased torque. Quoted as moving to 400bhp and 520NM (applicable to all engines with Continental turbo and end results irrespective of manufacturer's original state of tune). I haven't had it Dyno'd to prove, but I'm fine with those figures for now. What should help with the top end is the R600 induction kit and Forge turbo inlet pipe to speed up airflow - RL state that consistently gives 20bhp at the top-end so, I'm in the 400-420bhp ballpark. Brakes: Mtec drilled and grooved discs all round with ATE Ceramic pads. Standard sizes, just looks better and should stand up to any heavier braking should the need arise. Still bedding in and have noticed the DV-to-induction pipe has a broken clip so is being pushed off with high pressure/more open throttle. It makes the car sound like it has a dump valve at the mo (technically it is dumping to atmosphere so it effectively is). Not keen on that so no driving in anger until that's sorted as well as brakes having done a few more miles. Dirty Engine Bay:

Good stuff @varooom. 🙂 Not sure how else to add this other than an attachment, but feel free to incorporate the contents explicitly if you know a good way. It covers all sorts, but crucially how to work with the 'numbers in rectangular boxes' which frequently fox newcomers to the CFDs (current flow diagrams). CFD explanations.pdf One more thing; for anyone wondering about the seemingly misplaced laughter (L0L) in some of varooom's examples, that's a code meaning Left Hand Drive. L0R is the equivalent for RHD. 😁