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@major-eyeswater - Well, MOT Manual Section 3.2 does not mention any need for a window regulator to be operational.

Excess oil can be sucked out using a Sealey hand vacuum pump. The ideal would be to do an oil and filter change.

I'll encourage someone else to flesh out that statement. Never owned a vehicle with a DPF myself.

More likely to be fuel contamination into the oil, unfortunately, due to interrupted/incomplete regens.

The V11ZW VED reminder turned up in the post this morning. Its £0 until next renewal.

But this change is retrospective. My VED on the ID.4 was set at £0 when registered and has been for the past three years, from April 2025 I'll now be charged £195. Our little Citigo VED was £20 from the get go and has not been changed when new VED rates come in. Which makes this VED change retrospective in that it affects vehicles built before the change was introduced. As to @lol-lol's question, I believe it will be from the renewal date, as we purchase 6 or 12 months VED in advance. I'll let you know when I renew at the end of the month!

Unfortunately modern diesels with DPF and EGR require regular long distance journeys. They are incompatible with short journeys and annual mileages less than 10,000 miles per year. Previously I had a 2.0L TDI VW Touran. My daily commute was 80 miles per day, so 400 miles per week, 20,000 miles per year. All was fine to 90,000 miles then I retired - annual mileage dropped to 3,000 with short 2-3 mile journeys. EGR valve blocked and replaced at 96,000 miles, EGR blocked and replaced again at 102,000 miles. £700 every 6000 miles ment a change to a petrol 2.0L TSI Karoq.

In my 2020 SE-L, the boot light has three LEDs in the side which light the boot and two in the end which are the torch part and these don't come on when I open the boot. If I take the light out and use it as a torch, the torch part turns off automatically when I put the torch back in the holder.

It depends on the model year. I bought my SE-L in 2020 - ordered January but delivered June because of Covid - and it came with the torch (left hand side of the boot) and 12 volt socket (right hand side). However, the torch was discontinued in the next model year (from about Sept 2020), probably to reduce costs or because of supply difficulties or both (Covid again).

Ah sorry wasn't clear, so they've refunded me the excess I've paid which was £75 to get the windscreen replaced. What they should have done really, was the guy who turned up last March. He should have said it wasn't repairable, and I had to pay the excess for a replacement. When I found out the repair wouldn't pass an MOT purely specifically because of its location, I messaged the autoglass warranty team asking why repair it, if it's going to fail based on the location of the chip. But to save the hassle, I just rang them up asking to simply pay the 75 and get the job booked in. Their warranty team then rang me just yesterday on the back of my message sent last week, could see my replacement booking for Friday, and decided to say give us a call once done and we'll look to refund you...... Whether that's the full or not don't know, either way they surprisingly want to resolve

Now I have disturbing images of all those kilted Scotsmen constantly bent over by the roadside adjusting their tyre pressures 🤮

I check and adjust pressures mostly between October and March as the variations are more pronounced than during the summer. I feel running at low pressures causes more wear and adversely affects road holding.

Thank you for your replies. I'm going to ask them where it was documented as I never saw this on the form anywhere. May well have missed it though. They made it sound as though the vehicle was already available in the spec I wanted but just needed delivering. I never had any extras added either just the 1 litre SE edition scala and they told me they had every colour available to order for Feb delivery. If it is on the form then I'm in trouble but like a couple of you said already, I don't know how they'd go about getting the money from me unless they took me to court!

I released the wheel trim without removing the wheel. Was about 9 screws and a bit of jiggery pokery to get it to drop down to get hands in Didn't even have to jack up car

Clearing data and cache worked perfectly, thanks both.

You can apply that argument to all VED changes, the VED on my ICE Octavia is way more than when it was first registered in 2016. The VED on my previous Audi more than doubled in the 10 years I owned it! Perhaps I chose the wrong word when I said "retrospective", what I meant was that it doesn't cancel the existing VED registration (for £0) for EVs on 1st April 2025, and like all VED changes it applies from the time of next VED renewal.

Same here, only runs continuously while the rear washer is active (and a few seconds after).

Mine is intermittent.

Where is that £1500 cancellation fee documented? I'd have a word with your local Trading Standards people and get some advice from them. It may be that having a car built to your spec and then cancelling does incur a penalty, I don't know.

The transponder needed to turn on the "ignition" is passive so will work even with no battery in the key, the battery in the key is only needed for remote locking/unlocking.

Did you read it properly before signing?

Is it built as to your order, and is it ready for importing to the UK? ? How are they going to get the £1,250 from you, are they intending taking you to court?

If u want the facelift chrome strip, u will also need:- - facelift inner and outer taillights - centre chrome strip trim - facelift rear camera - facelift boot handle I wanted the chrome strip, but it was too expensive of an exercise, so I improvised and made my own chrome strip, using an L-shaped chrome strip trim from AliExpress. It's been years since I did - still going strong and holding up well.

Took upon me the job to help a colleague. Car was towed to my garage today and started immediately. I must say, have done 3 cars now with 4x4 both manual and dsg gearbox. But this is first time replacing a clutch on a MK3 octavia tdi. And what a nice development from Skoda when it comes to easy accessability to mounts, bolts and nuts. Really, it is just wonderful to work on this 150hp tdi with 4x4 compared to a MK 2 4x4. Especially around the bevelbox and the bracket to the engine block. No need to f...around with oil return pipe, take out drive axle flange, dpf or any of that s...t. Saved me at least one maybe two hours. I spent 2 hours today and gearbox is ready to be dropped. Work steps were as follows: - Wheels off - Drop subframe with steering rack, used subframe guiding pins in order to not have to do an 4-wheel alignment - Drive axle out (i took both sides) since I like to have as much room as possible. But one really need to disassemble the inner knuckle. But space is nice. - Mark up and disconnect propshaft tie it up. Remove all lower bolts (2 I think it was) except 2 right and left side bolts from gearbox to engine - Next was to remove air filterbox, battery and tray to get access to starter, mounts and shiftercables. - Then I used a engine beam to support gearbox. I hoisted the engine a bit up to loosen the mount and bracket just to check alignment on the beam. All good, and tomorrow is a walk in the park with, starter, shiftercables and shifter. Finally disconnect wires and remove gearbox mounts etc. And voila, gearbox ready to be dropped on a gearbox lifter. I calculated approx a total of 7 hours for the job, but I do believe that I will be done in maybe 5hours now. Thank you VAG engineers for making a diy mechanic life easier compared to work on MK 2 tdi 4x4 manual gearbox.

Hello, I want to retrofit virtual cockpit into my 2022 skoda scala 1.0 TSI. I know I would need to buy and mount display unit 654920790A with fiber cable, but something else? Is it enough with proper coding? Would the display fit the current meters frame? Is the meters unit locked with car vin? Can I unlock old unit and new unit with obd11? Thanks for help me to figure it out!

I am on the original pads all round as I have only completed 24,600 miles since new in 2019. I was surpeised as I would expect to change front pads 1st but they are only 10-12% worn I am very light on brakes and would normally expect to achieve 50-60,000 mile on a set of pads. That has always been the case over many cars in my 55 years of driving.

Oh good, Ive seen this many times on the Vectra C side of things. Just replacing fuses that test and look perfect but that are many years old has cured a lot of issues. Maybe down to the fact these are all ran off computer module centres and not old fashing fuse and relay boxes. In fact my current Vectra VXR Ive had for 9 years now so maybe I should change the 2 or 3 normal trouble causing fuses in the BCM 😁👍

... and yet the warning indicator shown in the posted image is NOT the GPF one.

I second that, I’ve never had rear pads replaced before 110,000 miles, front pads normally last 60k to 70k miles.

Thanks all, I have Logged out and back in again, deleted the app and reinstalled and today is the first time that it's come back online for just a short while since the 27th of January. So I'm just assuming that is problems their end with the app, I will keep a check on it and let you know how it goes if the problem persists I certainly won't be renewing it in April as it would be just a waste of money. Thank Again

Is it the whole gear knob you need then as usually that comes as a whole assembly. Do you have a picture of the part you need?

Damn auto-correct - you are right of course.

@fr1nklyn 1. True, sensors will gone no matter what. 2. After 2020 new sensors used 3. Change both sensors ofc 4. https://getriebeshop24.de/products/hydraulikdrucksensor-satz-kupplungspositionssensor-inkl-dichtun Don't use crap Asian sensors!!! 5. Yes, after sensor swap Basic settings have to be done!

It was pretty obvious that with the (forced) move to EVs then any Government would have to make good the shortfall in revenue by, at some date, making EVs pay VED - so to not expect to have to pay VED on an EV is very naive.

First post so be gentle. I've just bought a Kamiq SE-L and it does not have a torch, it has a 12V socket.

When you say it conked out, describe in detail what happens. Eg, does it splutter, does the temp go up, does it crank over afterwards? Is the engine light on? Is it the fuel cap sealing too tightly/breather blocked. When it conks out, try opening the fuel cap. Need more details?

I am relaxed, my car gets taxed at the end of February for 12 months. I expect it will £0 and I'll pay the new rate in Feb 2026. But I'll let you know if it is pro-rata. The timing is purely based on when the car was registered.

mine is working ok . Is your car connected to the internet . Mine lost connection once had to log out of services on the MIB unit in settings ( internet connection ) hard reset and log back which restored my services .

Mine's working ok - if you haven't, I would suggest logging out and back in again, then deleting the app and reinstalling it. Its not a great app - updates do make it flaky from time to time, but mine's ok (on an iphone15 - not sure if android version)

That is at the bottom of the cup holder. If the battery was very weak it might have been detected that close to the cup holder. The instructions on unlocking the car when the battery is dead tell you to put the key in the cup holder to start the engine.

It depends on the map. Mine seems pretty mild in ECO and Drive, but quite frisky in Sport mode. Throttle response has a lot to do with how it feels too. Talk to your tuner and tell them what you want and they'll tweak the map to suit your needs. If they can't, you're possibly buying an "off-the-shelf" map from a retailer masquerading as a tuner.

Charge the battery via the accessory socket then unlock the doors using the remote. The key should have opened the drivers door, I can't explain why it didn't but whats important to you is to get them both open. You can actually open the bonnet without opening the door beside the release lever, it takes a lot of bending though and I would charge the battery if I had the time to avoid the possibility of breaking it although many have opened it that way without breakage.

Another great bit of work - looks like a factory job. Do you have 10 colours on your LEDs? Earlier ones had 3 I think but not sure where yours sits on that.

Not sure, tbh. I was under the impression it just changes the throttle/gearbox to sport (and the stupid noise maker in the vRS)… but I may be wrong. In any case, surely if you’re tapping into sport it’s so you can mash the throttle, which would override the ACC anyway? Glad the tip helped and you’ve found some way to make it work (better) for you.

I don't believe so. A common complaint.

Thanks for your comments guys. My car has been on Skoda Allin package for the last three years and supposedly had new spark plugs and filters last year but I always find that my MPG is down after it has been serviced and gets back to normal after a few weeks and that happened again last year. I find if I do a long run of 250 miles it seems to sort it out. I have never before noticed a drop of more than a mile or two in winter, but I have never managed to achieve the 62 mpg that some people publish either. I have to admit that ( senior moment ) I hadn't considered the brake issue even though my rear pads are almost shot but my fronts are only 10% worn. I am thinking it is probably the electronic parking brake issue that I have seen many people complain about. I have never noticed any issue with it coming on and off and not detected any drag but the wear would certainly point to it. Cheers guys.

I don't believe that the missing fuse was the problem. I've never used the lighter sockets in the 6 years I've owned the car and never noticed the missing fuse before. I plug the CTEK charger into the boot socket and that comes off a different fuse. Ross Tech Wiki http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00927 for fault code 00927 (terminal 30) says that possible causes are "electrical path issues". It also notes that possible symptoms include exterior lights inoperative. I did check the lights which were all working hence my working on both fuses boxes as the possible weak link in the electrical path - accepting that no wires were broken. I think the cause was a bad contact on a fuse, not sure which one, and cleaning the contacts restored the electrical path. Either way, the door locks and windows are working again and I have lots of fault codes to delete - sometime. I may even try to get the tear drop function to work on the front wipers.

This might be worth a watch, as it sheds some light on the impact of engine oil on the GPF. Nice animations, too.