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Knockhill Rally event. Starting to get used to the camera, A firmware update seems to have made the focusing less unpredictable Found a panning assist mode too which works best in shutter priority mode. The weakest link was me with remnants of man flu and a sleepless night and it was bloody cold!

Just fully repaired my mk1 fabia Htp 1.2 after 2 years of sitting. It needed quite a bit of work including all new springs, Wishbones, subframe bracket on passenger side, tie rods, both new wings (fenders) and half of the tracking peices. I ended up replacing the springs for coilovers fitted for handling not looks. And ive just turned 17 and got it on the road, took it over 70mph for the first time in it's life, and the old spark plugs blew all the coil packs one by one 😭 all sorted and happy to be here now 👍 Might be seeing alot of cries for help from me hahaha.

If you carry those key pouches around with you, they definitely wear out fairly quickly (I've some reviews suggesting 6 months). If popped on a shelf or something, should be fine. I bought 3 new ones recently, didn't fancy taking a risk for only 8 quid a pack

The key is constantly trying to communicate with the car if the light is flashing. It will run the fob battery down a lot quicker than normal. To eliminate any risks either locate the key well away from the car (e.g. other end of the house) or place the key in a RFID faraday pouch to insulate the signal (faraday's are cheap to buy online).

partslink24.com does it, but not for free. Various short-term subscriptions are available though; £13.20 for 1 day is currently the cheapest option for UK. The parts lists are the same as via the various free ETKA clones, but more up to date. Includes RRP. VIN entry causes the relevant parts for that VIN to appear in normal black font with all the other ones greyed out. Another possibly handy service I've just noticed that they offer is a full list (csv file) of all the parts for a given VIN. Currently offered for £15 for 5 VINs-worth. Appears under the heading "Additional fee-based services" on their subscriptions page and is called "Parts data Lists".

I bought a plug-in Octavia estate via Motorpoint, and was a bit rude about them at the time. As it happens, because there were delays with the payment (probably because of a new person working in their office) the delivery was rushed, and the car had a few niggles. I'm sure they would have sorted them. But, mainly because the Octavia boot space is the biggest selling point for me, I was shocked by the difference the battery made, and asked for the car to be returned. I fully expected to lose the £299 door-to-door delivery charge. I've just had the repayment, and it included everything I paid. So they covered not only the cost of getting it back, but also the cost of getting it to me, without being asked to. That's pretty impressive, I think.

It depends if you have wireless charger or not. For the ones without, there is no LED.

Completely normal, especially with temps at this time of year. It will soon disperse once the lights are on and the headlight heats up.

Glue might be an issue if you ever need to replace the indicator sometime in the future. Have a look at this video and take it all apart to have a look at what's broken and upgrade the indicators to dynamic ones and the puddle lights to led while it's all apart

You need to pay more attention to that space between the front seats! The post-facelift model also has a "P" - next to the gearbox selector, for gearbox-park (pin-locking the transmission) and also a second "P" - next to the "Auto Hold" button, for the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB). So DO NOT press the blue-marked button in the attached picture, but DO press the red-marked one... note: having the Auto-Hold engaged when you stop the car, will automatically apply the EPB also; therefore, if you want to have the EPB-OFF, disengage the Auto-Hold before stopping the car...

I would have a VCDS scan done to ensure that the Haldex controller has not been removed from the "Installation list" That said I'm not sure that any fault codes would be generated from the lack of a propshaft so there would have been no need of such a measure.

Personally I very much doubt it'll be covered by a warranty but costs nothing to ask the provider. I would guess, don't know, the seal would just be pull off and push back on, possibly needing the heel of the hand or small rubber mallet, you might have to raise some plastic trims to tuck in but I don't know. A plastic pry tool would help with this or suitable spatula if you can get it in and out of the kitchen (I keep a couple of old ones in the shed for such jobs). HatBoYHarvey might have a video on this on his YouTube channel for the Mk1 to give you the general idea. - [ ETA: sorry, I was wrong there isn't a video of this ] HTH.

So you have a fwd scout? That is quite extreme lol. I wonder why it is missing, problems with rear differential? Up to 06.06.2016 the part number seems to be 5Q0521101AK and after that 5Q0521101BB. Idk if they are interchangable, but perhaps the numbers and google can give you idea what models share the same shaft, if any.

Thanks for the better pictures! The hex bolts, blobby welds and plastic coating leave me pretty confident this isn't part of a modern Skoda.

Be aware though that some faraday pouches don’t last. I bought two when I got my Mk4 with KESSY (March 2021); the pouch I use is now completely ineffective. I assume over the time it has developed a few cracks which permit the signal to pass through. Other pouch is fine. A replacement is on order…

Fish Brothers, Skoda parts direct - https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/product/skoda-fabia-hatch-2014-2021-pollen-filter-cover/ ETA: part number Fish Bros give - Part number: 6R2819422

Rainy morning kitchen window sparrowhawk.

Last week I retrofitted a VC to my Superb 2.0 tdi MY18. Because the info on this subject is scattered all over this and other forums I decided to bundle it into a how-to. First of all a big thank you to RomanB, langers2k, Richie2019 and Camarao69 for the help with coding and with finding the correct parts. Before you start, make sure your car is able to do the retrofit. As I understand it, you will need a Mib 2.5 and also the correct gateway to be able to have a map display in the VC. If the part number of your gateway starts with 3Q0 it should work. Maybe also with other part numbers, but you will have to check. You can check the part number of your gateway with VCDS. What about Amundsen? I have read that with certain types of Amundsen it should also be able to show maps on VC. But coding is a bit different. And, as I don’t have Amundsen, I can’t really tell. I ordered the VC on ali: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001320853346.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 This VC comes with the optical MOST cable you will need for display of maps on the VC. Before you order, send the seller a message and ask for a discount. Also ask for him to declare a lower value (+/- 100 dollar) to customs. I paid around 60 euro import tax based on this value. If you have the CANTON sound system, you will need a Most splitter. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001590588805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 Or https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33003652246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dysj90l (about the MOST splitters: I ordered both, but you will only need one of them. The first link looked like the better quality item, but it had 2 male connectors and 1 female. What you need is 1 male and 2 female connectors. The VC came with a spare female connector, so I used this spare connector to convert the splitter into 1 male and 2 female. It’s easy, just mind the arrows on the connector. They depict the data stream direction. The item from the second link is ready to be installed and does not need to changed. However just eyeballing it, it did not look as good as the one in the first link.) Vag audio removal tools: You need 4 pieces. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001502327510.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61f03aa8VhZ892&algo_pvid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254&algo_expid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254-0&btsid=0bb0624716157231348261767efc60&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Trim removal tools: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32963954415.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.477d61553u3Dn4&algo_pvid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc&algo_expid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc-0&btsid=0bb0623d16157232258103800e5d6b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ And a Vas5054a for pairing the keys to the cluster via remote coding. Links to a Vas5054a come and go. They don’t work for long. Look on ali and read the reviews. Disregard complaints about the software as you will not need to install it. Often there are choices in quality. Choose the best one available. Bluetooth is not necessary, I just used a usb cable. And you will also need a windows laptop. I also ordered a screen protector for the mib 2.5 and for the VC. Just to protect them while do the installation: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32931529165.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p and https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001805982326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p And of course you will also need a VCDS-cable or a similar device. Wait until the parts arrive and, in the meantime, find an online coding service for pairing the keys to new cluster, remove component protection and to set the odometer to the correct setting. I used: Vag retrofit and Coding. Telegram: https://t.me/vagretrofit Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vagretrofitcoding/ Cost: 75 euro for 2 keys and 100 euro for 3 keys. Maybe there are cheaper/better alternatives, but this worked for me. The VAS 5054a comes with software. You do not have to install this software for use with a online coding service. You will only need to install TeamViewer. Before you start tinkering: Make an autoscan with VCDS and save the log to your computer. This saved my ass, because after the online coding of the VC, my sunroof lost it’s coding. With the autoscan available it was easy to fix. I also made screenshots from every byte of my old cluster, using the long coding helper (example, of just one byte, below) With this, it’s easier to setup the VC. See the service manual how to unclip the various trim parts. There is a certain sequence in releasing the clips. Before I used the online coding service, I installed the MOST cable. It was a pain. The wires behind the Mib unit in the glovebox were too short. So I needed to dismount the entire glovebox to get access.I connected the MOST splitter to the existing MOST cable and the new MOST cable. Removed the Mib headunit and old cluster to pull the new MOST cable in place. If you don’t have CANTON there may be a protective cover over the MOST connector on the Mib. After you have pulled the MOST cable into position, reconnect your Mib headunit. It needs to be connected while the online coding is being done. This it to remove component protection. Also reconnect your old cluster. You will need it connected at the start of online coding. I also tested my audio, just to be sure it was working after the MOST splitter install. A video which gives an idea how to remove the cluster: (the screws are behind the left and right trim parts. Not under the center one) A picture from pulling the cable: After all this you can start with the online coding process. Have all you keys readily available. It took 2 full hours in my case. When you install the VC, make sure to remove the grey protector in the MOST connector on the VC: After the online coding you can start your car, but your dash will light up with faults because of the lack of coding. Coding the cluster: I now took all my screenshots of the long coding from my old cluster to code the VC. Just one note: Leave Byte 0 bit 1 unchecked. It will give an ‘’entry out of range” error message if you try to code it. After you coded everything in, the error messages will disappear. Just take caution with your fuel gauge and make sure it is accurate so you don’t run out of fuel. My fuel gauge tends to read fuller than with the old cluster so I don’t trust it yet and may change the coding on it. Coding 5F (mib): Long coding: Uncheck byte 22 bit 0: Make sure MOST is on (for non CANTON cars) Byte 19 bit 5 Adaptation (5F): For imaging through MOST: - ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF - ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On - ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On - ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 - ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On - ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On For the Virtual Cockpit menu on the MIB: - IDE11524-ENG137043-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45, Activated - IDE11524-ENG137044-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45_msg_bus, Comfort data bus - ENG122227-ENG142087-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142088-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_clamp_15_off, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142089-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_over_threshold_high, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142090-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_standstill, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142091-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_after_disclaimer, Not Activated Now restart the MIB. (hold power button until it reboots) You now have the normal dial VC: If you want to have the carbon look: 17 – instrument, adaptation: - IDE12467-Tubes illustration, Variant 3 - IDE02489-Display depiction, Variant 1 or 3 (can’t remember which one) If you want to change the end value of your speedometer because of reasons: 17 – instrument, adaptation: IDE13094-Tachometer end value. I used setting Variant 1 for 280kmph. Might be different for MPH. Trim Piece I needed I new trim piece which is now on order. As I understood the partnumber you need can be easily obtained. Note the partnumber on the white label of your old trim piece. In my case 3V0 857 053 N77. N77 is the colour code for my trim piece. To obtain the part nr for the new trim piece just add an ‘A’ after 053. So in my case: 3V0 857 053A N77 is the part nr for the new trim piece. There is also the possibility to fit new MFSW buttons with a VIEW button. - 3V0 919 719 E (manual) - 3V0 919 719 F (DSG) - 3V0 919 719 G (manual + heated) - 3V0 919 719 H (DSG + heated) I've been told that DSG versions work in manual cars and that heated versions work without heated wheels. I did not fit these buttons yet so I do not know if these part numbers are fully correct. If there are any omissions or errors please do tell. Also feel free to add more adaptations.

The Octavia is my first car with the tiny shifter thing. To be honest I've found it quick and very intuitive to use and don't have any issues with it. The P being at the top is just where you'd shift an old style lever to.

As some of us will remember, there never used to be any confusion when most automatics (except for a couple of quirky exceptions) had a proper shift lever on the floor, or on the column: Park. Reverse, Neutral, Drive, Low (sometimes 1,2 instead of Low) which controlled the transmission. Then you had an actual hand brake which acted on the rear brakes. End of story. Nothing fundamental has changed except that now we have a bunch of buttons instead of levers. Until now it had never occurred to me that anyone would/could confuse P on the shifter 'button' with P on the e Brake 'button'...

Just measure the diameter of your disks using a tape measure. Thanks. AG Falco

Ukraine not in the EU but in Europe, Ireland in the EU and Europe but not the UK. Models change for different markets.

@Ulsinus Further to @Dean above, the headlights are semi-sealed, not fully sealed. The advice is sound, if the lights are halogen units. If they're plasma discharge or LED, they never get that hot, and condensation is an ongoing thing.

Would you like to offer your services to Skoda to write the next edition of the handbook? That is totally understandable- and has made me realise I've been pressing the wrong button for 4 months now! It's impossible to identify which P button is which from the photos in the book. Thanks very much.

In auction for friday 12.30

Welcome. You have to go check the tyres with a tyre pressure gauge to see which of the 4 is lower than when set and the TPMS was set. Only 4 to do, it could be the first you check or 2nd, 3rd or the 4th. But then you will know the pressures you are running. ? Have you checked the pressures and set since getting the car and reset the TPMS?

I can't help with sculling blades but am willing to attest to the fact that you can get 1.8m skis in an Octy Estate behind the front seats. Or you can also get 4"x4" x 8' fence posts in if you skimmy them in over the front seat, or you can also fit in 50 x 6' x 3" fence posts or a dining table and 4 chairs + 2 carvers. Add a top box and trailer and the sky's the limit!! In fact it's a standing joke in my house that the answer to any question on how to get x taken to y is 'put it in the Octavia' LOL!

I think they are suppose to look like gold ! Did not like that feature at all so was glad to see not on the Scenic which is fundamentally LWB Megane. I thought first you meant yellow piping in the car which did surprise me with the Scenic thought it sort of works better with the red paint than some of the other body colours. With the Megane I thought the body versus glass area looked a bit wrong but that is personal choice. The Google and screens are great, stalks maybe too much. With the gear selector on a stalk, indicators, wipers, audio and regen down and up means 6 stalks !!

Got it in August ‘24. don’t often have passengers in but it could’ve been done since then, but I dunno, it feels like it’s a bit of a weakness to have been damaged. it was approved used from a Parks Škoda dealer in Dumfries

@J.R. Is it you or me that needs to wear their specs or get new ones? I did not notice in the Mk3 Section so a car older the 3 years as far as The Manufacturers Paint Warranty, unless on an extended. I thought i was looking at the roof of the car.

@ian3 How long have you had the car before noticing the cut? If it was there during the inspection during the Pre-sales but noticed or not noticed it was maybe not going to get replaced anyway. If it was not noticed by you when buying the can then maybe damaged since. ? Which Dealership Group sold it to you, Arnold Clark?

Part shows 2 /2017 in the dots, a locating raised part and the wings that keep the clamping clips with the cover, or should do.

There is no progress bar. Just wait for a while. After some time you can check in Setting -> System information the nav db version

Having got my Satnav reloaded and working again (thanks to Romeo26222's post on 6th Feb with a link to the re-install download file), I've also been able to successfully (I think) install the November maps update from the Skoda update portal. I downloaded and unzipped the file to a USB-C drive, put it in the car's USB-C slot - I didn't do anything else, no tinkering with engineering menu, nothing - and a couple hours later the map database version shown in system info is updated. The blurb on the update portal says it can take a while and suggests to leave the USB stick with the map updates inserted. My question is, how do I know when its complete? There's no progress bar, or "updating" or "updates complete" message anywhere, so how do I know when its finished and its safe to take that USB stick out? Is it finished as soon as the map version number is updated? Thanks.

Don't recognise it myself but it looks aftermarket to me, clamp for a mudflap or part of a towbar perhaps. Google Lens comes up with a few suggestions, including a Volvo oil cooler. How big is it? Are the bolts welded to the plate? A better lit photo on a white background would help.

Why would that be an issue? If the engine is at working temperature, there is nothing to worry about. Revving the engine for a short period of time will not do any harm to the engine.

I have. And I have Canton subwoofer in the tire. But still. Surprised that there are different options for the tool organizer when having a spare tire in the trunk. This is how mine looks.

Maybe a loose fixture somewhere. The ticking didn't sound all that regular to me so more like a loose cam cover clip than the belt itself. Maybe a loose tool or something sitting around the engine. I've found a few sockets and spanners in car engine bays before. Left from previous works.

I thought there were Škoda marking on the windows but with second thoughts I'm doubting myself, might be a false memory, too dark and cold to look outside now. By 5 years old you'd want to see on top of the annual "services" which are little more than engine oil and filter changes and look-see for any chargeable work which not even a proper engine service let alone whole car service, brake fluid change, spark plugs, cabin filter!, I'd like to see engine air filter elements changed at least with spark plugs but more often personally, air-con service if someone else is paying for it. If it was like it when you bought the car then the tyre should have been changed or condition noted on some report, depends how bad it is of course and if it was ever seen or tyres even checked in reality. Tyres are best changed in pairs of two (front or rear) or set of four or five. Unlike the engine relatively, tyres are one of the important parts/components on the car they effect the braking (the most important system on a car), steering and suspension systems, safety electrics (lights, horn. blower, wipers, etc.), windows and mirrors (and reflective number plates) (see and be seen) all more important than the engine (and transmission). No problem, see if the following can help, I reduced the size of the image or perhaps you can reduce it in camera's setting before taking the photos, having hi-res images is good for close up zooming but you don't always so much detail as 10mb or a lot less. I have also cropped the photo and added circles before rum4mo posted and said about your missing catches, good job the muck was holding it up. Orange circle is for what I guess to be some sort of locating slot I've never noticed before.

Agreed, and what about all the other warzones and the nuclear weapons that are stock piled around the globe?

@Ootohereit is still today very disturbing just how many people who really cannot grasp the concepts that Jeyem is talking about when he makes these videos. He like me, can see that EV's are the perfect solution for some people and that there are many millions of people who would like to switch from fossil fuelled cars to electric for all the right reasons but they are unable to do so for literally many reasons. People need to take on board the many points that are raised in the videos that he makes and they need to fully understand that this is not all about them, but about how can everyone get to be able to enjoy the warm smug feeling that these people seem to have instead of creating even more social divides between them and these who simply are unable to get themselves into an EV. It strikes me that a lot people start to hear what he and others say and then instantly shut their ears because they do not want to hear the simple truths. Jayemm also talks about the ULEZ in London and how these are being rolled out to other places as well all of which just adds further pressure on people who for those myriad of other reasons are not driving an EV already.

My NZ car also has the light. I learnt that spec can be very different for each market. For example I have KESSY on all 4 doors but have read complaints from some they only have it on the front.

@Crasher can probably advise, I have seen estimated prices of £1500 posted on two separate VAG websites. One site was VW Audi Forum (VWAF). Try googling EA888 camchain replacement price.

To test if any door is not actually locking when it should, try locking with the fob - then check each door and trunk.

Long story, Happy Fish Friday. My SKY Broadband is pathetic and always has been. I was paying £38 a month and getting nothing like the speed i should have. In January it went up to £43. This had me looking to switch, or get cheaper & each time i tried accepting Renewals cheaper the application failed. When i did get to speak to someone at SKY i got an upgrade to Full Fibre and a low price. This was on 10th January. Change over 14th February, new router here by the 31st January. Before the 31st Router Arrived. BT Outreach guy knocked the door saying was putting the cable to the back of house ready for 4th. On the 1st BT Outreach message me appointment back to 14th March. This week the pavements are dug up for Fiber Broadband and pipes run to edge of gardens. Weeks away or months from that FIBRE BROADBAND. So i am paying £43 still and crap speed and just the lower price would be fine. ....................................................... I GOT THROUGH TO SKY today. I got the perfect call handler unlike the one 2 weeks ago. ' Computer says just wait'. £20 Credited to my Account today. Compensation is £6 a day for every day late from the original 4th February. £42 a week to be paid to my account until the Fibre Broadband is on in my house. It can take for ever as far as i am concerned. LARRY. Happy as. PS. She told me today the Cable going into the house at the rear is Pole Work, but requires scaffolding to the rear of house to be connected. Even if so and it is the 14th March that is about 38 days at £6. £228 plus the £20 gesture today. EDIT PPS. As i found out today, The pavements are dug up and new repaired poorly for VIRGIN Full Fibre Broadband.

Ah so it looks like it's not part of the UK spec but is standard in the European spec....... If i'm honest it doesn't bother me it not working as i like it being dark down in that location and the thought of the LED reflecting back up from my phone screen is something that would just annoy me.

. "On second day of ownership several warning lights appeared. Contacted dealer who wanted the car returned. Having read this thread I decided to wait and see if it cleared. After a short run and a restart it was all back to normal. I have seen the odd "front collision" symbol at start up but it soon goes - frosty morning...perhaps. " . . By the way, if there's frost on the car, you need to clean two areas to avoid warnings: Completely clear the glass section in front of the camera at the top of the windshield. AND the most important, clean the opening of the camera on the radar box in the center of the grille. If both are cleaned, there will be no warnings on a frosty morning.

Stunning 👌

did change mine just now, looks much better IMHO.

I mis-read the first one 🫢 From 1 April 2025, electric vehicles will need to pay for VED – road tax. Announced by the Government in the 2022 Autumn Budget, Chancellor Jeremy Hunt stated: “To make our motoring tax system fairer I’ve decided that electric vehicles will no longer be exempt from Vehicle Excise Duty (VED).” The changes are as follows: New zero-emission cars registered on or after 1 April 2025 will be liable to pay the lowest first-year rate of VED (which applies to vehicles with CO2 emissions 1 to 50g/km) currently £10 a year. From the second year of registration onwards, they will move to the standard rate, currently £180 a year Zero emission cars first registered between 1 April 2017 and 31 March 2025 will also pay the standard rate The Expensive Car Supplement exemption for electric vehicles is due to end in 2025. New zero emission cars registered on or after 1 April 2025 will therefore be liable for the Expensive Car Supplement. The Expensive Car Supplement currently applies to cars with a list price exceeding £40,000 for five years Zero and low emission cars first registered between 1 March 2001 and 30 March 2017 currently in Band A will move to the Band B rate, currently £20 a year Zero-emission vans will move to the rate for petrol and diesel light goods vehicles, currently £290 a year for most vans Zero-emission motorcycles and tricycles will move to the rate for the smallest engine size, currently £22 a year Rates for Alternative Fuel Vehicles and hybrids will also be equalised https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/electric-cars/running/electric-car-road-tax-guide-do-i-need-to-pay/