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Any chance you're looking at the auxiliary belt thinking it's the timing belt?

Drove my Mk3 to the car wash (Karcher) today (only a quick coarse cleaning instead of a fine detailing). I was quite happy to get its original Moon white color back. 'cause of bad rainy weather, many miles and a lack of time these last weeks, it had slowly turned into mucky 'beige-ish'...

Taken from my Flickr.

Car passed MOT, grand total of 2819miles between MOT’s Last year I had bang on 2k miles between MOTs 😂

Pretty sure almost all modern engines have covered timing belts. If it is the timing belt then you need it rectified.

12valve dudeee

Don't take anything as gospel in case it sends you down a false path, the guy should know a coolant warning light when he sees one but may have been mistaken, coming on at start up can only be low coolant level, level sender failure or the plug disconnected. You should start by establishing if the battery is charging (after checking and topping up coolant if required) then get the engine up to temperature checking for leaks and overheating.

They do break sometimes, all you can do is be as careful as possible. "Give it a spray and walk away" is the key rule for anything that's a bit seized. I'm a big believer in letting stuff soak overnight where possible. Don't get too hung up playing Top Trumps with what the best spray is, if one's going to work, they're all going to work sooner or later - it's just a question of how much you have to use and how long you let it soak for. Be patient and wiggle the sensor loose rather than going in with bit actions. Once you get a bit of movement on it and there's a gap between the metal and the plastic, get some more spray in and drink some more tea. Try to lift it out with a tool under the sensor against the metal rather that pulling it. @J.R. 's suggestion of giving the surrounding metal a buzz with the air hammer is a great one 👍

Head gasket leak between 3 and 4 seems like one possible explanation, given those numbers. Resulting misfires running fuel down bore walls, spoiling sealing?

Thanks for the help wheels look so much better

All the connections are tight? The expansion tank cap is OK? For sure there is air inside the system, that's a bit normal when you have removed parts etc but it's easy to remove it in our system which has no radiator cap. 1) You make in a repair shop a ''pressure test'' to see if there are any leaks of coolant, if not then 2) Fill the system till the level in the expansion tank is in the middle, run the car slowly in the road at least 20' so the thermostat will open and the coolant level will drop 3) Squeeze the main hose many times, take a towel, grab the cap and turn it loose very slowly 4) You will hear s ''Hssss'' sound, that's good means air from the system is escaping out, when there is no sound screw the cap and turn off the car 5) Let the car cool normally and then check the level, add some one click above the middle between the Min and the Max marks. Air inside the coolant system means temperature rising. No air means higher pressure so you have protection from overheating.

Thank you for the advice, I'll go back to the dealer and post back here how I get on.

Has s/s ever worked since you bought the car?

Go with all season tyres, seem to be less prone to cracking because they can tolerate being used from very cold, although it might simply be the compound is not as brittle on cold days. Your choice might depend on availability in size you require, and price, consider any of the following: Bridgestone Turanza all season 6 Continental all season contact 2 Michelin cross climate 2 Pirelli Cinturato all season SF3 there is also (been around for a while now) Goodyear vector 4 season gen 3 Other Hankook kinergy 4S2. (there is a new one Ion flex climate, but don't know anything about it) Falken Euro all season AS220 Vredestein Quatrac (Or older Quatrac pro plus)

I use Google Maps via Android Auto Not a fan of the native navigation. Plus, you don't get live traffic unless you pay the sub after the first year

If the voltage is really that high then somerhing is SERIOUSLY wrong, the voltage should never be above about 15V!!! Sounds like your alternator regulator is not regulating, get it looked at and fixed ASAP before some serious damage is caused - and be prepared to need a new battery if this one has "boiled".

I wasn’t completely comprehensive as I need to give it a polish and then I’ll ceramic coat it to keep it in good shape for a while…just need to carve out the time to do it. Yesterday was perfect weather - overcast, 6 or 7 degrees, hardly any wind. Have to hope for another unicorn like that

Fixing it was pretty annoying, but getting it on the road for a first car is great Was sat for 2 years and has lived on a bumpy dirt track it's whole life so you can imagine the condition, I had to change lots of parts, in the end i got a new coilover kit and vrs rims, I've got Pictures of it just before it got put on the road,and the drop at the front. took so much work but I'm really happy with the result 🎊

Yeha I absaloutely love them, I'm actually part way through doing a vrs kinda conversion, except I'm not the world's biggest fan of the front bumper, so I'm on the look for some other aftermarket ones. Other than taht the engines are great too, reliable wee things.

Coming up to two years with my 20 plate Karoq 2.0 TSI 4x4. Had none of the problems others have mentioned. Best car I have ever had by a long, long way. Miles better than the Octavia 1.8 L&K and Yeti 1.2 Elegance that I had. As other have done swapped to Bosch Wipers immediately and changed to Cross Climate 2 tyres before I bought the car. It's comfortable, quick, reasonably fuel efficient for a 2.0 4x4, sticks to the road like glue and I am lucky enough to have lots of extra options on the car (heated windscreen, heated steering wheel, heated rear seats, Canton Speakers, Columbus Head Unit, Leather Seats, digital dash). If only I had not kerb all four alloys within the last six months. Never touch a kerb in the Octavia and Yeti! Ho hum...

I will try that. Thanks. I would probably have done that earlier, but I need a pedal pusher and don't have one until tomorrow. Will post any results and methods in case anyone is following this thread.

I used to get some weird messages about why S/S wasn't working on a Superb 3 that I used to have. Not much help, more for entertainment. 😀

According to VAG website, your engine is EA288, DFGA. All images I see have the cam belt covered. A strong probability that your belt cover was not refitted during the recent replacement - very suspicious if they didn't mention its absence during the work.

Alright, I've checked the system has no leaks now, pressure testing it currently and it seems to keep pressure, had a little leak at the coolant hose to the thermostat housing, changed the hose clamp and it seems to seal now. Will try starting soon after having waited for a bit with pressure to see if it goes down or leaks somewhere.

Is the car actually burning it? If your going through 1.5litr every 1000 mile I reckon it would be smoking like a chimney. If its not bad check the engine undertray for oil. It can collect there and then drop onto road when driving. A compression test is a good idea and use the correct oil. Alasdair

Thanks for the input! yes i can do a compression test.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/361134-oil-spray-jets-squirters-14-tsi-tfsi-132-136-kw-twincharger/page/8 I asked a Mod to move the thread to the Fabia Mk2 section. This below was posted by me.

During the first hour after you make a post if you click on the ellipsis (...) top right on the post you get an edit option.

I have a cut off air chisel bit which I use to shock all around the area in conjunction with a diesel acetone mix, it has worked most times so far, if you can get a tiny bit of movement without the plastic shearing which is very hard to feel, then with a lot of patience and back and forth they can usually be removed intact. On the subject of prevention, I have used various coppa-slip pretenders aerosols plus also spray white grease which I have used on wheel bolts, wheel hub centre locations, the 5 point linkage adjusters on my tractor and without fail the next time they are removed there is no trace of the product or lubrication, they are not seized but you would never know they had been treated. Are they just coloured washable grease? My decades old tin of Comma Copper grease remains visible and lubricating.

I apologize for the brevity - after all it was an "oldish" post - and I clarify after reading the useful link, stabilizer hitches are not allowed at my latitudes. For these it makes sense not to grease, since they work in a particular way, similar to my bike-carrier (Italian-made), and also my junk-carrier (UK made) do not recomment a greased ball for the same reason, and in that case, I tend to wipe clean so the clamps have greater grip on the ball. But for all other purposes, both for my small >750kg and the larger car-hauling twin axle, I do use grease. Just on the basis of protection against wear and rust is sufficient. These are expensive things to replace, and extremely dangerous if they were to fail. Yes, greasing stuff might sound antiquated, but it is part of the normal prevention of friction wear between metals. With me, at the question why they don' do it, most answer they do not want to have dirty pants .... About the "hole", I was thinking to make a plastic cover with some velcro, it is enough out of sight so it would not be ugly, and it can be easily popped out when needed. While would not be a totally enclosed result, I guess would be enough to minimize dirt ingress in the tow-hole (lke the way this sounds!). I tend to regularly spray everything that gets in the way of the elements ... I guess I am also antiquated myself 😜

Thanks for the input, im replacing ALL bolts, nuts etc just to be sure, I have a burner ready, done this to some BMWs before so i have the patience needed :) /rob

1) There's a good chance this is electrical, but in the driver's door, not the passenger door. Continuity check the wiring through the driver's door bellows. 2) The cupholder is common with the Elegance and Lauren and Klemens trim levels. It may also be on at least some late Ambiante models. 3) That may well well be a dead wiper motor, or wiring through the LH boot hinge. 4) Leave the boot trim until you get the wiper motor fixed.

It is because newer bolt is 10.9 and older 8.8 strenght..

I see today that the 0% PCP with £3500 deposit contribution has been dropped. Latest deals are 0% Interest but with no deposit contribution or 6.5% Interest with £3000 deposit contribution. Obviously selling enough cars not to need the really sweet deals. They've also pulled the deposit contribution on the Enyaq 0% deal as well.

It. Could be worthwhile going for a longer drive to see whether the stop/start kicks in when the battery gets to a decent level. If it does kick in, then the battery is falling. Good luck.

We’d a similar issue on a Kodiaq less than a year after the mechtronic was replaced under warranty, additionally it wouldn’t engage gear. Call to AA brought a man in a van who was a bit of a Skoda nut (he’s on here somewhere) who found a raft of faults in the log, very few of which related to the actual faults but the stand out seemed to be the things that flagged low battery voltage. Next up a battery check and bingo! £150 and a new battery later and alls been well since.

Weird if the fan spins right after start-up. I take it the car was cold? Sudden drop feels like G62 gives faulty readings? Or perhaps the charge air cooler pump turned on. Or thermostat opening and staying open. When you disconnect G83 ecu might have to assume that coolant needs cooling and spins the fan just to be sure the car does not overheat. Have you tried disconnecting G62?

Your (second) set of voltage readings seem fine. Bear in mind that the static volt reading just after the engine has been running will display a (slightly) higher value than it truly is. Measuring the voltage from the positive pole to the earth point may identify a different voltage, meaning your earth strap or contact has become suboptimal. Your ECU is reporting a high drain, which in turn will not allow stopstart to operate. The tedious part of the analysis is now identifying which part of the car is responsible - is the heated windscreen really off when you switch it off, for example? A scan may or may not help here. Good luck

@travs My MOT is Friday too as everyone’s happy on a Friday, another extra on making it pass Tbh nothing wrong with my car and only driven it about 3k miles since last MOT 🤪

I sincerely believe you. I had a 'Metal Black' Audi A3 Sportback Mk2 15 years ago... No black/dark car anymore, ever! It's so disappointing to spend hours making an intensive clean and then discover it's full of swirls once it catches a sun beam... 😱

It's the wrong thread. It ain't "The Superb III picture thread"... 😁 BTW Nice job!

It's been a while, but did have to scrub older towballs clean once in a while to remove the rust, before re-greasing. Yeap, I am one of those who love a greased ball ... 😜 Many pants and hands I got greased over time, but oh well, part of the job. If the rust is minimal, scotchbrite is enough. Obviously keeping the ball greased lowers the chance of rust, but from time to time it should be cleaned up, as grease tends to attract dirt which is abrasive as well. So, clean the ball to a shine, the grease again. Sounds like a sex education commercial lol If the towball did not come with a protection - mine in the Superb did not - any cheap rubber cap is sufficient, cost is minimal, and does not bother when it is stowed. As for the mechanism, the Superb is the first retractable I own, all my others are or were fixed. I move the mechanism in and out once every few weeks, especially now in the ugly weather, and just spray it liberally with WD40.

Me too. But more so that it hadn’t been done in such a long time. Although MOT Friday so bonus if that helps. Carpro Retyre cleaning the tyres Plenty of Iron Fallout to get rid of Carpro’s Lift to pre wash, Reset to clean up, IronX to get rid of the iron, TarX to get rid of the tar spots. Finished article; Carpro Hydro2 being my LSP of choice. Will do for now.

Really glad that neither my Polo nor A4 feature that 'orrible 4°C thing.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is the engine really running cold - has the actual engine temperature been checked independently? What is the oil temperature reading? (if you have Maxidot display)

I know this post is late, and that there are other threads on this subject, but I felt that I had to add my comments to this thread. I’m not a fan of the aero covers either, and yesterday I took the plunge and removed them. My car is less than two months old, and has covered about 800 miles; even so, the wheel rims were filthy with brake dust. Anyway, I cleaned them, and have fitted a set of centre caps and bolt covers. The wheels look much better now! The aero covers will be buried somewhere in the garage …. For what it’s worth, I bought the above parts from an EU supplier - skoda-parts.com. They were more expensive than some of the offerings on eBay, but I wanted to be sure that they were genuine Skoda/OEM parts. Part numbers were: Wheel hub centre caps (set of 4): 5E0 601 151 FOD Bolt covers in metallic dark grey (16, plus 4 for locking nuts) plus extraction tool: 000 071 215 HTH

Farina Fettler'/s House ruins, South Australia.

Got my car a couple of months ago and was told that my cars records could be accessed online.(bought from a dealership in the UK) I've logged into Skoda Connect and now when I come to putting in my VIN number. It gives a warning saying "Your vehicle is not equipped with both "Škoda Connect" and "SmartLink+ features" Also tried the App with the same result. I have an Octavia 66 plate. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Joe

An old set of Wolfrace wheels that I recently had refurbished on my track day car. Actually about 5kg lighter per wheel.