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Its done. Was a piece of cake basic. 1 hour and a half and it was done. Was pretty easy. I totally forgot to take photos during the process.

Solved, it isn't a T40 torx nut it's a T40 Torx plus socket.

If it's anything like other Skodas just take it for a drive and do a full left lock to full right lock and back turn of the steering wheel.

Best case scenario - blocked or loose drain. Worst case scenario - new cassette.

90% chance it is the sunroof. Most likely the drain tubes are loose (they shrink in length over time, and have to be replaced). It is a well know VAG problem.

I think it's all been said. If the clearcoat and the paint are gone then it's about building the layers back up. If it's black or dark grey in the pit of the scratch then you are through to the plastic. So first a good clean and a wipe with alcohol. Then (cocktail stick is good used as a pen) some of the colour in the bottom of the scratch. Let that dry then apply some clearcoat. Build it up in layers slowly and don't do it on a damp day. If you let the last layer go slightly above the surroundings then you can polish it back once it's dry. (and I mean really dry.) If, as has been said, the scratch is white then it might polish out. TBH nowadays I get a mobile company like Chips Away in.

A compromise would be to fit the standard battery and disconnect the BMS module current measuring shunt lead which will disable the stop-start as you have indicated your desire to do, revert to a standard alternator charging profile and avoid the expense of BMS recoding. The battery will last as long as it would on any standard vehicle, arguably longer than a replacement AGM on a stop-start vehicle. It is unrealistic to expect any battery replacement to last as long as the factory fitted (Moll batteries aside) one even if it appears to be the identical make and capacity.

And finally put to bed. Had to cut down the legs to fit it in and noted from a YouTube video to jack it up into the voids in the rubber; but the bolt cap fits and feels pretty good in place so happy with finally sorted. DNFE owners be warned.

Had to get another sump as the one I got was wrong, Rear main seal and oil pickup is done and dusted. Pulled clutch and flywheel off to said seal, Since I loathe removing gearboxes, and have had to do it twice now I've opted to replace it. Was an oe clutch and DMF on it, the hot spots on the plate and flywheel sealed the deal for me, clutch wasn't gone gone but I'm not doing it again. Dmf was fine itself just the hotspots on it and I know you're not meant to reuse them as such. Did have the option of going single mass. Get trade rates thankfully. So only meant it was 20 euro in the difference between a single mass sachs setup and dual mass Luk. I like sachs stuff as it is oe, but LUK is decent enough and keeps the dual mass. Didn't want to deal with the chatter you get with a single mass either. Another car got but won't really effect this, it's not something that's going to consume a lot of money.

I couldn't find a Bosch one to fit in Halfords, after getting an Aerotwin A 864 S for the front, which fits perfectly. I ended up buying a rear blade from eBay which claimed to be Bosch. I picked it up today and it is, indeed, a proper Bosch one. The A 303 H fits perfectly for the rear, and I now have Bosch all round, which gives a much more silent, clean wipe than the ones that were previously fitted. I've included a picture of the box of the A 303 H because the diagram of the blade is different to what you get. I think I noticed someone say in a Kodiaq thread that the A 303 H has been redesigned for 2024 and it doesn't contain the big blob of plastic on the end, as seen in my picture of the box. Well, they are correct and if you buy a current version of this blade, not an old pack, then it will fit the back of your mk4 perfectly. Mine snapped right in place in a second. I just thought it was worth mentioning, because I spent at least an hour googling before I took the plunge on eBay.

We have just had a few days away and I have never seen so many Yeti's This was as we came out of Days Inn Kendal yesterday morning,

You need 1800 fw to fix android auto problem. Link is attached in this topic.

I gave the SD card the same name as I gave the previous one that gave up the ghost. But should I put all my songs in a directory? Good idea which I did immediately and this time the unit said "Reading the SD card" then nothing. So I think you may have pointed me in the right direction. I shall experiment with putting a couple of songs in a folder and seeing if it works. Thanks very much. I'll update the thread with the result.

Not sure what you mean by "barely adequate". Even tiny discs would be able to take the ABS to the point of intervention on a single stop, and braking ability is ultimately determined by the tyres and the road surface. The only difference with larger discs is the ability to cope with multiple stops from high speeds and/or a heavy vehicle (or one towing) without heating up excessively. Maybe you drive down alpine passes in a spirited way ? A full brake service plus a change of pad formulation and possibly higher performance standard sized discs might be an awful lot easier.

Open the sun roof and check for the drain holes. There are 4. 2 at the front and 2 at the back. You can run clean water down the side that is not leaking and you will see it run out just behind the front wheel well. On the leaking side take the A-pillar trim off - it just pulls off - and have a look for the pipe running down there. Also the drain pipes shrink over time and yours might have slipped out because of this. You can the cassette out. This is a big job. One person - cannot remember where I saw this - used boot sealant to fix it. The cassette leak is between the plastic and metal joint.

The brakes on my 1.2 are perfectly up to the job so rather than 'upgrading' I'd suggest you find out why yours are so poor, I've not heard of it being a thing? What do other 1.2 owners think?

These sort of jobs are not so much difficult as perhaps difficult to get someone that has, or allowed, the time and inclination, in them or not knocked out of them, to do the job properly and thoroughly, if you have the necessary equipment you would possibly do a better job than many professionals as you would (hopefully) allow sufficient time and care about doing the job properly and thoroughly. If any filters need changing as part of the service or just needed then they should be changed. The correct oil(s) need to be used (possibly to allow for VW past mistakes and/or compromises) they doesn't necessarily mean the bottles have to have VW labels. TVS Engineering DQ380 / DQ381 DSG (0DE / 0GC) general info - https://tvsengineering.com/en/dsg-gearbox/dq380-dq381/ @Ootohere may know more about DQ381 VWŠkoda serving.

I don't know if it's any help, but my GTI (DQ250) is coming up for its 40k service. Although it now goes to a trusted indy for servicing, I'll be taking it to VW for the DSG. It just seems to make sense (to me at least). Gaz

They do still offer it in other models, just not Karoq. When it was dropped they thinned down the drivetrain configurations quite a lot - quick look back says 12 versions dropped. VW Group have been increasing dropping manuals recently.

Bad advice, all our vehicles for the last 2.5 decades have had a base and clear paint finish, if you want to touch in a light scratch then it should be with clear lacquer followed by polishing. If the scratch appears white against a dark paint colour its a sure fire sign its a lacquer coat scratch. The clear coat is very hard and very deep, it takes a hell of a lot of flatting and polishing to go through it, filling scratches with lacquer and then flatting & polishing down flush with the surrounding lacquer is desirable to maintain the thickness. Filling a clear coat scratch with body coloured touch up paint stands out a mile!

Hi djmartzian Thanks for this information and I will take a look and keep you all updated on my progress. Regards Bennie

Cheers! Will try wafting my size tens around then. As for is it fitted, the software has the ‘easy open’ option and I have ticked that. It’s our first new car in 22 years so all the software options are new to us. The build sheet lists electric boot.

Have it booked in at Skoda for the DSG oil service next week. They quoted £250, does this seem about right?

It depends how deep the scratch is but best to start with a body paint and see if you can cover the scratch so it doesn't show, Straight (original style) T-Cut is a bit harsh to start with and more generally a restorer / renovator. You always try the least abrasive first and only use more abrasive as required. Clean and dry around the scratch, put a fingertip of liquid polish on to a clean microfibre cloth and with one-finger rub the polish into the scratch area back and forth in line with the scratch using a medium pressure, stopping as the polish begins to thin and dry. Allow the polish to haze, this shouldn't take very long, buff out with a second clean microfibre cloth and inspect the result, repeats as many times as required. If after a number of times you don't seem to be getting anywhere then try with the T-Cut but with more caution as it's harsher, if you get the scratch out with T-Cut you will still need a gentle polish. If the scratch is too deep and wide then touch-up paint is required and you may need to apply the paint with a wooden toothpick for narrow scratch and blunt the end for wider scratch as the brushes you get in the cans are normally too wide unless you are good at pinstriping or painting generally. HTH.

Take a look at teh rear wiper gromet between the wiper spindle and the glass - that's where our Kodiaq was leaaking - between the gromet and the glass.

I think you have to leave the error code in as they won't believe you or your scan tool or read out.

Plenty of options over and above the standard ones, although what is your specific concern? If the brakes don't create enough stopping power, then if you can get the ABS to kick in on a dry road, then the brakes work enough, as the tyres are losing traction. If its a case of fading under heavy braking, then pads can solve some of it, but you may also want to change your brake fluid and/or change the flexible brake pipes for braided versions. It may also be worth to replace the discs for cross-drilled and/or grooved version which will also aid colling for repeated heavier braking. For pads, look at Pagid, Ferodo, VBT (VagBremTechnik) for their products. For discs, look at the above, brands and also MTech also do versions which they add a coating to so the non-contact parts stay black rather than rusting to orange. ATE make ceramic pads which are lower dust so the wheels look cleaner for longer. Is your model a FWD or AWD car?

Got under the car to chuck some new bits on. First is a set of brackets which tighten up the propshaft bearing alignment. The original bolts go into slots rather than exact holes which allows for some movement to, argue RacingLine, ease production-line assembly but results in unnecessary stresses in the prop, bushes and bearings. I’m no engineer and while it no doubt doesn’t make much difference to the majority of cars, if driven harder, more exact alignment sounds like a worthwhile exercise to me. And for the cost of a takeaway and 4 13mm bolts: easy. Next was the final chapter to my Dogbone insert saga - a rogue OE component change for one of very limited engine codes meant the classic inserts wouldn’t fit. Powerflex’s versions are only partially affect by the changes so I could trim it down and utilise it. Can feel a tiny more of a sensation when idling but otherwise, really not much to report. I did note that they come in 4 colours for different stiffness - red (for diesels) -> yellow(for petrols) -> purple(for harder driving petrols, track diesels) -> black (track and racing). Being yellow, it’s pretty soft and just its presence in the mount is enough to reduce movement.

Kopacek

Tailgate window seal?

I was told I bought the last 1.0 DSG (SE Tech) to be delivered to UK, that was at the end of July 2019. Agree with most comments, a very nice car (if not perfect - what car is?) with plenty enough performance for me and CAR magazine noted it was the quietest of all the Karoqs they drove - engine is very quiet. From what some people have said in the past, it may not be any more economical than the 1.5, but it still has impressively low petrol consumption. I aim to keep mine as long as reliability holds out / petrol remains readily available / it remains viable in cities as regards emissions / or I'm still able to keep driving into increasing old age.

I'm getting worried that when they say they're working on a fix they actually don't know what the root cause is. From what i see they're focused on their new models and since Aug 2024 till now there's no fix. When you need your car urgently you can never be sure it will start. So I believe every onwer experiencing this issue should request a fix in their local services.

In case anyone was wondering what it looks like. I prefer the badged logo personally.

Thank you man! The battery was the issue Curious is that the dealership and 2 different mechanics didn't find the issue, but of course, I paid for the diagnose and what they changed (Camshaft and the crankshaft, glow plugs, etc). My father (who is not a mechanic nor specialist) saw how the car was doing (he has a 2016 Passat) and took the battery from the Passat and put it in my Skoda and vice versa. I went with the Skoda for tests, and it didn't reproduce anymore. I went with the Passat, and the problem was reproduced in the same way on the Passat. For the 1st error, Heated Steering wheel, I still receive this error, but the Heated Steering wheel is working very well. I understand from another topic that this is a common issue. I want to change the Steering wheel to a Heated one with gear shift paddles, but I don't know if I only need to change the Steering wheel and code some stuff or if I need to replace some other stuff. if someone know? Thank you!

Resolved Removed the RH boot carpet and found the sound insulation material which is bonded to the back of the carpet had come loose and was blocking the vent. Removed that section and its now back to normal!

Flew over this morning - looked for a moment like it was taking our neighbours chimney pot with it!

Back from a ski trip in our French Alps, I made a quick clean (Karcher only at the local car wash) to my Estate this morning, before removing the roof box. I took this pic, 'cause I find this black & white combo has a bit of star wars Storm troopers… 😁 Still 1200-ish km to drive before the 135000km overhaul. Plan is to : - Change engine oil + filter - Change fuel filter (every 45000km instead of 90000 as recommended) - Change Haldex oil and clean gauge (every 45000km too, since easier than the 3 years to remind for me. Also allows an earlier replacement due to my annual mileage). - Swap winter / summer wheels. Then it will need a deep inside and outside cleaning to be ready for sale...

Finally, after a 6 month wait, yesterday the big day arrived. I collected my new Race Blue Hatchback in the sunshine. I've taken off the Aero Covers as I prefer the look without. Quick question how do i get the Oil Dip Stick out to check the oil level.I don't want to break it but it seems held on by some clips and won't release.

Unusual to see an NGK fail like that. Champion and others YES. I would get another set and monitor it. Chances are it won't happen again. Hopefully its just the plug and not the coil pack etc. You could always take it back to where you got the plugs or contact NGK they might send you some for free? Alasdair

Thanks for all the responses. Sent the car to my dealer for investigation. The battery was fine. The problem was traced to a faulty speed sensor on one of the wheels! Everything back to normal now.

Unlucky...

This above is one of the most bothering things on modern cars ... most components are as crappy as they can happily get away with, but some reason it seems to be a consensus among the industry that certain connectors must be made with a overengineed approach that makes easy work an impossibile task! Either they seem glued in place, or the locking tab is positioned OPPOSITE of the side you are reaching (this one happens to be one my favs), or the locking tab is unclear why in some is "push inwards then pull" in another ones is "pull outwards and pull out" ... may the designers be cursed forever! My absolute preferred one, the locking in between the two connectors end being SO strong that the tab that holds the assy in place slips out or breaks, therefore the entire combo gets to hang loose somewhere ... if you are VERY lucky they fall more into some innard where extra sweating and a balanced alternating lithany and cursing seems the only way to get around .... I used to think whoever designed these things was an imbecil. Now I just think is someone who models in a CAD with minimal training and motivation, zero engineering motivation (for various reasons, be cost cutting, ecology, etc.), and especially who has never turned a scredriver in his/hers/its (now we got 'X' genders also) miserable life, considers getting hands dirty an abominable relic of the past, but especially, thinks that just because is a "newer" approach, is always "better". I wish them a failure in whatever crap they drive in the middle of a stormy rainy cold night, where they can learn the true extent of their actions .... 😝

Clean MOT sheet for this one. Not bad considering it's been abused. Staring down the barrel of 100,000 miles now, and in the best shape I think it has been in for a long time.

I believe the xenon bulbs are just one thing, and bi-xenons use shutters to control the light and flip between dipped and full beam. We’re reaching the edge of my knowledge now though! 🙂

That looks like the one I used on my old Roomster 1.9 PD engine. I wrote a guide on that task in the Roomster Guides area. That's the correct one for your engine is it ? I only had a cheap one and never had any issues. You only actually need the crankshaft locking bit, the bit with the wide black rectangular geared curve on it. The top camshaft lock pin a 6mm drill bit will suffice too. Similar with the aux belt tensioner.

Never ending pain. Timing belt and water pump done. Little drama here, water pump was poor so well I changed it, no clue when it was last changed so atleast I'll be starting from "now". Building all back up. I even took some time to paint up the tinware, it won't last but I tried. So last thing to do, just about was the oil pickup tube. Pulled out the lower gearbox bolts, soaked in oil, odd. Cracked the sump taking it off, typical. Also damaged the rear main seal, if it wasn't leaking before it is now, so needs replaced, which means box off... Again... On the bright side, This engine looks spotless, I'm about 80% sure it's either been refreshed or it's a much lower mileage unit than the vrs was (given the rust on the outside, I'm leaning towards being the original vrs lump was stripped and rebuilt at some point.). Especially how clean the head looked, this is quite the fresh engine atleast. Have a new pickup tube here, though it's not blocked, there is scuzz stuck into the corner so ultimately glad I'm replacing it. Considering I bought this with a blown turbo, it's well I had a look. Been amassing parts to do the rear main seal, and fix what I've broke. -New gearbox bolts from darkside. -New sump -RMS on the way -Rear main seal tool -Solid shifter bracket bushes -New metal coolant pipe on route (not related) -Magnetic sump bung (see blown turbo) Put one of those in the monte on its most recent service (November?) anyway, it's soon due for another so we'll see how much **** it's picked up. Clutch alignment tool I've to get, atleast I'll have it. All things considered, parts are silly cheap so I'm not too worried. And atleast I'm not paying for my own labor.

It'll be just fine for topping up, oil doesn't separate into anything, it stays as oil for millions of years before we dig it out of the ground.

Go to 'vehicle' 'settings' 'units' and then you have a drop down menu. I do this often, even on the go, I like to measure in km/l, but all my friends here reason in l/100km, and of course when I have to disclose to you my exploits in fuel consumption, I switch to MPG UK ... 🤪

As Richard Thompson sang in Red Molly - “red and black my favourite colour scheme”