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Had a trip to Marwell Zoo today, came across this Village Weaver in the aviary…

Thanks a lot for your thoughts, Carlodiesel! I took the car to the authorized Skoda service partner in my country. You were right in suspecting the timing chain was fitted incorrectly. It turns out that it was the main issue! Spark plugs were another problem and the mechanic replaced them as well. The car has significantly improved. It doesn't stall, or heat up. One problem still remaining is the engine power. When there's a slight elevation, it feels like trying to run in a dream - the power's just not there. The mechanic said that there's a part in the turbocharger that needs replacing since the previous mechanic welded a sensitive piece. It seems like once that is fixed, the car should be back to normal. Thanks again for your help!

Might be a worn EGR valve rather than a sticking one. A sticking one ought to generate a specific code saying 'position mismatch' or similar, since there is position feedback from a potentiometer in the top part. EGR valves on petrol engines tend to burn off any local carbon build-up cos they run very hot. As said in that linked thread, it's only generally the TB end of the metal pipe that gets occluded, where temperatures are much lower. No cooler on these, @Alasdair1 other than the long steel pipe. There's a little pipe on the side of the EGR that equalises the pressure above the valve, with a tiddly little air filter on the end of the short flexible pipe. It might be worth pulling that filter off, and seeing how much suck there is on that pipe when the engine is idling (EGR should be shut below 1500rpm). It is expected that there should be a bit of air entry here, due to the clearances round the valve stem and wear on the valve seat, but if it seems like a really strong suck, that air is probably leaking through to the intake manifold and potentially confusing the engine ECU. If EGR valve is thought to be original, it may be time to replace, genuine Pierburg recommended over the many cheap chinesium offerings.

More vapourware. Not even a complete interior. VAG and their trailing of models not even off the drawing board is annoying,

Sadly there are reports of a child having died & another injured when a BMW electric car has struck them after crashing through a fence and onto a sports / rugby pitch. The story will be coming out about what happened and why. That the car is an EV and is powerful and fast accelerating and did not come from a Public road but from a car park has been said in the news. Time will tell if that has anything to do with it. I do hope that the Vloggers where ever they are in the world wait for for the Why, Where, How etc to come out. BBC article says a man arrested at the scene on suspicion of causing death by dangerous driving.

Fab, to be honest it's just uk road ready now :) Moving to the Yeti projects area ;) Edit: No I'm not, as something isn't letting me. Will sort later...

Just an update on the issue. Finally managed to receive a quote for this. Parts cost roughly £430. Labour cost £630. All excl. VAT. The mechanic suggested getting timing chain kit from Gates which is apparently a good brand for this engine.

A good rule of thumb is not to let a "could" be leveraged into a £1500 bill that doesn't fix the problem. This, a 1000 times this. ☝ You cannot solve a problem you do not fully understand. But you can milk an unwary customer of a lot of money by iteratively trying to fix a problem you don't understand. As George says, get a proper diagnosis of the problem.

That’s why I kept my 85 edition to under 40k, going to miss the matrix lights and the electric tailgate, but have a workaround “shut the boot dear”

If only I’d got the whole reflection 🙄

They will know then how many are no longer working of those there were last year and how many are out of order at any time. Today it was the Vauxhall boss i heard first saying 40% of homes have no driveways and that is 60% in urban areas. That nonsense needs to be knocked on the head. Is that even the percentage of buildings without a driveway. They are really just picking numbers any numbers. The dude from Vauxhall said 40 BEV models from Stallantis and ones with over 400 miles range. Super bl00dy dooper.

Now over 75,000 public chargers, increasing by about 20k added in the last year.... https://mailchi.mp/zap-map/newsletter-6th-march-4929769?e=85ad54930f

I used to have a 2.0TDi and now have the 2.0 TSi, I haven't driven the 1.5TSi. The 2.0TDi was good but I find the 2.0TSi absolutely brilliant. OK the mpg is about 30 round town and 40-45 on a motorway which is obviously less than the diesel but it is fun and the acceleration is great. I retrofitted a towbar on the diesel and have a factory fitted towbar on the 2.0TSi. The retrofitted one was fine but if you are towing be careful with the oil temperatures. On the diesel, and I was only using the towbar as a cycle rack carrier, the oil temperature would get up to 113 degrees or more on a hot day. On the 2.0TSi, because the towbar is factory fitted and it includes an enhanced cooling system, the temperature never exceeds 99 degrees.

While I don't like to take sides J.R. has the cure more correct IMHO. The problem is we are typing on keyboards not looking at the scratch i.r.l. White showing up could be: The primer showing Paint transfer Damage only to the clearcoat. Frankly impossible to say from reading what is written. OH yes, our Chips Away bloke is good but it is true the standard does vary a lot. As it does with "detailers". To many car cleaners claim to be "detailers" now!

Yes it is all to do with this. On the plus side Skoda seem to be the only part of VAG group to be facing up to the issue of 3G (and 2G) switch-off. On the minus side there will either be no cure or the cure is not yet developed. At least that's what I got from the "2G / 3G Sunset" article. Part of the problem is that VAG rely on intermediaries to ensure the data connectivity rather than contracting directly with the actual Mobile Network Operators. Their use of MVNO's is a weakness as I have mentioned before. Before anything can happen the car needs to connect onto an MVO's network, then a contact with the MVNO's data centre has to be established. This data centre has to talk to the VAG data centre which in turn has to talk to the Google data centre. Then the data is fed back to you. Now I'm sure there are data cashes in the chain but it's still flakey if there is a data centre problem (as there was clearly yesterday). Then you need to factor in the network loading. If there is no 2G and 3G due to the switch off then everybody is on 4G or higher. In these circumstances MNO's will prioritize their direct contract paying customers and those who connect on an MVNO's bulk plan (cheap) will be second best. Sadly VAG did not see fit to allow their cars to connect via their customers mobile phones preferring the e-SIM method (although legislation about the SOS call might play a part in the decision). This is why so many people use Android Auto or Apple Car Play.

I'm being pleasantly surprised by my dealer every time I check - last weekend was "definitely by the end of March", and yesterday it was "it's in the country, so probably next week" ! I suspect it was on the same shipment as the demonstrators doing the rounds. (I ordered towards the end of December).

@mark_irl You are absolutely correct this is a very well known design fault with Fabia's, Polo's & Ibiza's of this generation & there is a TPI to rectify it. VW should be issuing a recall instead of charging customers for a TPI. I have exactly the same spec Fabia as you just the hatchback version & had exactly the same issue at very similar mileage all as described in your original post. This generation of engine was manufactured in VW's South African factory & basically they were putting the cam bolts in without loctite hence why over time they work themselves free & the first escaping bolt starts hitting the cam cover - if one removes itself completely it will very likely go into the cambelt causing damage I'd rather not even think about! In my case the dealer was good immediately switching the car off, advising they may need it for up to 6 weeks dependent on damage & parts required. What then happened was a TPI was oddly immediately available & fitted as quickly as possible & I was back driving it 10 days later. After some discount the final invoice was approx £950 which I had no option but to pay as I needed the car back. It did resolve it & thankfully no issues in the 6 months since. However I felt very strongly this should be a recall so took it up with VW directly (which was another long story) I eventually agreed on approx 70% goodwill payment not the numerous offers of service packages that include very little in the T&C's. This really, really should be a recall - I just hope this assists someone in the future.

The measurements fit with the tyre calculator, the 4" space above the emergency spare to the top of the toolkit does suggest that it's worth a try with a full size wheel/tyre. Maybe temporarily swap the space saver with one of your own wheels so you can try it before spending the cash?

Check the vaaccum hoses to servo. My sons had cracked and his brakes were really poor. He said that not a lot happened when he braked. I taped up the pipes on a temp basis and made a big improvement. It could also be sticky pistons/calipers

Hi all, Apologies for the thread revival, didn't think a new thread for the same car made sense. It's been a little over a year since we got the Superb down to England and started this whole odyssey. So here's a (not) wild thing: Rear rubber mats! This has been on the back burner for ages, and decided time to order them along with other stuff from Skoda Parts. This was 3V0 061 551 in particular. I also ordered a seal for the oil pan, 06K 103 649 J and an o-ring for the oil level sensor, 038 103 196 B. This is for the future, as part of additional moments of madness. That came up to €74.60 which at the time of ordering came to £62.34. I miss pre-Brexit... To complete the madness: Wheels. The original plan this year was to just do a stage 1 and leave the wheels and other bits for later, but with the front left wheel looking like it's losing air slowly, and a tyre place not identifying the tyre as the cause, leaves me to believe the corrosion on the wheels is probably the cause. So decided why not, just splurge and deal with the consequences later. Came to a total of £660.24, taking two weeks to arrive. These are Bola FLE's in 17x7.5 with ET40. I think if my homework is correct, this will leave the wheels a 2 couple of millimetres inward, so ideally ET38 would have been bang on, but these wheels only go as far as ET40. I guess I could get spacers, but the point of these wheels and this size was weight. The original wheels will be offloaded, so I'll probably put them up for sale once removed to save some space. With no tyres on: They weigh 7.6kg, so roughly as per website statements (I saw 7.4kg mentioned, presumably with different offsets and so less metal). Any lighter and it'll start becoming really exotic and thus really expensive (Magnesium? Carbon Fibre?). There will be more updates over the next few months, how far I go though depends whether the credit card burns out. I mean, tyres are the next thing right? Maintenance: £2370.22 Upgrades: £2366.10 (+£722.58) Miscellaneous: £820.07

Update: I made a patent to seal better the hood with the oval shape gasket of the engine bay. I took a sheet of soft self-adhesive insulation, put it above that gasket and closed the hood so this will create a mark of it's shape. then i took inside the hose and cut it. Then i went outside the road where the car was parked and i install it around the ''lips'' of the hood which bring fresh air inside the factory sponge air cabin filter. Yes i know doesn’t look very good but i won't go to a car-show. My main concern is that the gasket will touch that soft material and with the one-click of pressure will make a better ''sealing'' situation than before so no fumes from the engine can ''penetrate'' inside and then to the cabin. PS: That insulation material can stand high temperatures with no problem.

You maybe need to deal with another Authorised Repairer and get the Master Tech and Dealer Principal made aware of the issues you have. Also contact the place where the staff told you a 2 year warranty only. Dealer Principle there needs to discuss training of management and various departments.

It should have been named as a project, 'the VW has no I D A if this is EVer coming!' VW Group / Skoda need in PARTNERS that can sort out the Tech of EV,s and PHEV,s that people have bought and taken away and find that they are left stranded because the setting of charging can be 'Not fit for purpose' and Dealerships appear clueless and always promising a fix is coming.

The OP,s threads / posts on the car are about a manual.

If there's no 4G coverage where you happen to be driving it will revert back to 3G, but if there's no 3G it will revert back to 2G data - which even in its "fastest" form of EDGE is still hundreds or thousands of times slower than 4G.

Just a thought. Do the hazards work ok? Alasdair

Good morning John, is this Fabia a TSI? DSG or manual?

Pretty sure you don't need to change the steering wheel... Pop the airbag out and just change the buttons. It's what I did when I fitted a VC to my Octavia 😉 I used 3V0 919 719 E if it helps!

Manufacturers warranty in the UK 3 years from first registered. That will be the same as when the first MOT is due. So warranty to March 2026. Exclusions in T&C,s on the after first 6 months / 6,000 miles. You can read the Warranty on a Skoda UK website. ? What or where are you finding conflicting information? Reading and understanding the Warranty and what is and what is not covered is quite important.

I had my car delivered mid Jan and it has the Bridgestone Potenza S005 on (UK)

Amazon light switch = rubbish Sort of. I fitted it and it was backlit white, like a Golf. So that was no good. I also noticed that the rear window lock button wouldn’t light up when pressed. “Funny” I thought, “is it a duff switch?” So anyway, it being Amazon, you can just put stuff in an envelope and take it down the local shop and it goes back and before it’s even been picked up, they’ve sent the money back. So that’s £7.70 back in the bank but then we have the “what do we do to replace the switch?” conundrum. I found a genuine one, brand new in the box, from eBay. It also had an eBay March 2025 20% off discount code, so in the end it was £42 odd. Now after fitting it, I noticed that the rear window lock didn’t work… That sort of ties in with the new door modules I fitted last week and never even considered that it could be an issue. I did a bit of reading and thought the parameters were all going to have to be calculated and updated. After a short bit of experimental long coding fiddling in VCDS, it worked. Thanks be to god and his holy mother. Don’t ask me what I did l, all I know is it’s done. The other thing I did last week but never took a photo. Bonnet struts defo feel like the basic b1tch modification but it’s so much better than having to use the prop. These were also off Amazon and were about £20 Lastly I got a bit of carpet but I haven’t taken a picture of it yet so you’re not to know anything. Costs this post Window switch return: -£7.70 Proper brand new window switch: £42.39 (was >£52 before discount) Pair of bonnet struts: £22.02 Total cost so far: £844.05

Just collected (Saturday) mine came with Goodyear Eagle F1 Super Sport as well (UK model). Others have reported Bridgestone Potenza

I think Skoda and the treasuryhave done a deal 😭😭

I can’t agree with that. Scratches in clear don’t show as a colour; they just diffuse the light more than marring but the underlying colour coat still shows through. It doesn’t diffuse the light to the point of creating another colour. If there’s a definite colour that’s a loss of base coat and it’s the primer (in this case, plastic primer on the mirror caps) showing. Never heard of not putting graphite grey on white plastic primer either.

In a similar light, I give you three hundreds.

My summary is this: You read it damaged cars. You read the lawsuit was dismissed. You’re still not sure. Tbh - this is a classic first-impression syndrome where it’s hard to get rid of that niggling “what-if”. Perfectly understandable but tbh there’s too many other products on the market to force your hand. If there’s enough of an effect risk to make you hesitate, then just buy normal screen wash and use the rain-x products you’re happy with. I had a look through the Safety Data Sheet and didn’t see anything contentious. Has an alcohol which will be the solvent to clear contaminants and an organic hydrocarbon which will either be the hydrophobic coating or the solvent-carrier for the hydrophobic coating.

For anyone that wants to follow mine and Alana's journey with our Skoda Yeti, I've posted a thread over in the Yeti section which you can find here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530881-scott-and-alanas-yeti-4x4-modifications-and-adventures/ I was looking for a more general section to post the thread in as it might (or might not be 😁) of interest to others out there that are not Yeti owners. But I didn't want to get told off on my first day here so played it safe 😄. If a moderator or admin knows of a better place that the thread could reside, feel free to move it 👍.

Two things are important about whether a spare will fit: 1) The outside diameter of the tyre when inflated - an emergency spare should be within a few % of a normal tyre, so this is less likely to be a problem. 2) The width of the tyre - normally an emergency spare is much narrower than a full size tyre, so would likely cause the boot floor not to fit. Wheel diameter is less important - a 19" with an ultra low profile tyre can have the same overall diameter as an 18" with a low profile tyre...

It is dq381, 120k km fluid only change by skoda service book. External filter change is like 10 min job and oem filter cost cca. 30€, so CHANGE IT. Change it sooner like every 50-60k km it is not too expenisve

Update - Well, after advising the car was not as expected and requesting a refund of my refundable deposit I was met with two options; 1) £150 discount and pay for the car in full, then when going to collect if I did not want it they’d refund me in full (er, no.). 2) £99 refund as they completed works I requested incurring costs, and to my deadlines (I didn’t request any work to be completed nor provide any deadlines). I emailed the dealer a statement of fact detailing events, and today I’ve been advised I’ll be receiving a full refund of my deposit. Not a pleasant experience. Once again, thank you to everyone who responded to me here.

Hi Guys, Yes, I solved it, but I didn't post any solution because no one answered me anyway. I assumed that my car was the one and only :)) I went to the dealership and changed some sensors (in vain), the Camshaft and the crankshaft, glow plugs, etc... Of course, I paid for the investigation hours + tester (in vain) and sensors (in vain), glow plugs (in vain). I went to 2 more different VAG mechanics, who tried to do all kinds of tests (in vain), but none of this, solved the problem. My father (who is not a mechanic nor specialist) saw how the car was doing (he has a 2016 Passat) and took the battery from the Passat and put it in my Skoda and vice versa. I went with the Skoda for tests, and it didn't reproduce anymore. I went with the Passat, and the problem was reproduced in the same way on the Passat. My father's explanation (who is not a specialist or mechanic) was that the battery was no longer able to support the current when starting when it was warm. I have replaced the battery since the end of September, and I don't have any issues like that :) I hope you guys will solve the issue in the same way.

Found a few interesting new graph for my data from about 2.5 years driving the MY LR AWD: But keep in mind there is lower number of samples for -5, 0 and 30c. 35c is 0% so I've cropped out that column. Also an interesting short vs long trip consumption (efficiency) comparison, I've not looked through source code to see what count as short and what is long: Basically, looks like it is telling me ideal conditions are at around 30-50 mph in 10-30c. At 0c and driving at 70mph (when range actually matters), there is a 25% reduction in range compared to at 30c. At normal winter temperature of 5c around here, 70mph, there is 18% reduction in range compared to at 30c. This is fuelly plot of all my fuel ups with 2.0 TDI Skoda Octavia. Data are not as detailed as from Tesla, but we can see there is around 20% reduction in efficiency between winter (5-10c around here) and summer. I think people unfairly talk about EV poor winter efficiency, often forgetting diesel suffer more efficiency losses.

1.4 and 1.5 has belt. I have ovned 1.4 Superb and it is poweful enough if you don't need to pull a trailer.

@m2004 google for "MIB STD2 Toolbox"

@Graham Butcher Look in the Mk3 Fabia section. the likes of 'high RPM'. threads. 1.0 TSI,s with a GPF and cold starts, cold morning, morning icy / snowy maybe. Drivers concerned that they need to use brakes to hold the car back as they set off and try going slow and the car is running away with them. Newer Technology, can catch people out, as 'Coasting' does with some. & that acts differently with different generation / models of vehicles.

Battery is like the engine, it takes time to warm up. The BMS controls parameters so that the battery is well looked after, doesn't operate outside its comfort range. Just like modern ICE car ECU controls the engine parameters to reduce damage by hard acceleration from cold start. EV can certainly have additional components to scavenge those excess braking energy. But it comes back to cost, weight and efficiency. Basic engineering design decisions (I'm sure Graham knows too well as he keep saying he's an engineer). Why add weight and cost when it's a very temporary effect that can solved by software, plus daily driving charged to 80% wouldn't feel its effect? Alternatively, some of Audi's EV have been programmed to charge to lower true SoC, but show 100% to the user. Benefits are sufficient regen always available and faster rapid charging at higher SoC. But downsides are user inaccessible battery capacity, excess weight and more difficult to measure degradation. Certain cars does. One of software updates in Tesla blends in the brakes when re-gen capability is reduced. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/new-icon-on-touchscreen-limited-regen-braking-icon.284694/ Of course, legacy manufacturer will be stuck in their old ways of wanting people to buy new cars. I'm researching Megane's software system, people having to beg dealers to get bug fix updates pushed to their car is just crazy. Pretty much all EV, even the very basic Leaf and Zoe over 10 years ago, have displays showing regen and drive power capability on the dash. Nothing unexpected will happen and the blame can only be on the driver for not observing instruments.

Agreed! Polo GTI's a re a bit 'niche' though - you'd be better off comparing prices of a non-GTI...

It is the windscreen seal, common problem with the Felicia, lots of threads on here about it, including one somewhere on how to solve it with sealant.

The Skoda WRC resurgence was marked by the participation of rally legends Colin McRae and Nicky Grist in 2005. Driving the Skoda Fabia WRC, their involvement brought renewed attention and credibility to the team. McRae's skill and Grist's co-driving expertise highlighted the car's potential and boosted Skoda's profile in the World Rally Championship.

If Skoda can't guarantee a fix or diagnose the issue correctly, I'd take it to an independent gearbox/dsg specialist, go from there. I had my gearbox linkage replaced on a different make of vehicle, symptoms were I couldn't remove my key from the ignition after placing my lever in park. Other than that my car ran perfectly well. Was also an auto, torque converter type.