Leaderboard

In December 2020 we got this: Well, mostly. It didn't look exactly like that. It's had a few minor changes, and a couple of bigger ones. The minor ones are really just to make it a bit different; some are practical improvements and some are nothing more than trivial exercises in vanity. In terms of the way the car has treated us over the past forty eight and a half months it's done its best to be reliable, and bar a couple of very minor glitches (mostly infotainment-related, needless to say), it's succeeded. The first three and a half months of this relationship didn't go quite as well as we both had hoped. The car spent most of that time languishing round the back of the dealership with its discs slowly going rusty while it waited for a new rear diff. The original one made an interesting selection of unpleasant and unexpected noises on the way home from collecting it brand-spankers, and after a bit of a hoo-ha it turned out that the differential had quite a lot of swarf in it. And it sat there for weeks and weeks. I don't know, but I guess Covid had some bearing on all this. What did become clear was that there isn't a warehouse somewhere in an unremarkable town in the middle of Europe full of rear differentials just waiting to be picked off the shelves by a forklift driver wearing a woolly hat and a hi-viz jacket. The dealership were really good throughout. They lent us another Karoq for the duration, and did the best they could to get a new unit. There just weren't any lying around. Skoda UK were good too. I got regular progress reports from them, and they couldn't have been more polite and helpful. I don't know if the email expressing a modicum of disappointment that I sent to the Big Cheese had any bearing on this, but at no point did I get even the faintest whiff that I was being kept at arms length. Anyway, after weeks and weeks (and weeks) of the car not moving at all, it finally moved into the workshop in the February. I know this because I checked its location on the MySkoda app. Sporadically to begin with, but after a while I'm ashamed to say I became unhealthily obsessed with looking to see if it had actually moved. It's sad. Kinda pathetic. I called the dealership for a sitrep. They said they'd fitted the new diff, but a diagnostic showed that the steering wheel's touch sensor had gone west and they couldn't give it back to me with a defective steering wheel. Turns out there isn't a warehouse somewhere in an unremarkable town in the middle of Europe full of replacement steering wheels either. A couple of weeks later, we got it back. New diff, new steering wheel. All washed and ready to go. Because it took such a long time to fix, the possibility of getting a replacement car was briefly mentioned (not by me, I hasten to add), but the snag was there weren't any others in the country with the same specification. And it's not as if we were reduced to using Shanks's pony for months either because of the car they lent us. I don't really subscribe to the notion that one dud component - even a big one like this - makes the car a lemon, so we stuck with it. And I'm chuffed that I did. It's comfortable and quiet and because it's moderately pokey it's quite good fun to drive. You can't really hoon it round country lanes because the centre of gravity is higher than a regular car, but I guess that's what you'd expect. I can't be faffed with brim-to-brim fuel consumption figures entered assiduously on an Excel spreadsheet, so I rely on the app to give me a reasonable approximation of how may miles to the gallon it gets. Over the past four years it's returned about 34mpg. I'm okay with that. I didn't buy it for its economy. I love the seats. They are by far the most comfortable seats of any car we've had. No backache, no sore arse and no sore legs. In terms of build quality - particularly inside - I was a bit spoiled by the Audi A3 8V 2.0TFSI that this car replaced. The inside of that was just lovely. Having said that, nothing has fallen off this car, and there are no rattles. Not a one. It does everything I hoped it would before we bought it. Well, nearly. I've replaced the discs with drilled Brembos all round, along with their Xtra Line pads. This was partly because the original discs did suffer from the car sitting unused for yonks through no fault of its own, and partly because I'd always fancied trying drilled discs to see if they were really style over substance, 'cos they do look spiffy. Verdict is that they do bite a lot harder than the cheddar cheese ones that the car came with. A lot harder. And I got it remapped. Racingline OEM+ stage 1. It's gone from 187bhp to 230, but much more noticeably the torque has gone from 320Nm to 405Nm. And that does make a difference. It pulls really well. Last year I got the transmission control unit remapped as well, again Racingline OEM+. That makes a big difference too. Whereas before the gearbox did its damnedest to get into seventh in as short a time as possible, it doesn't do that any more. It picks its gears in a way which is much more like the way you'd do it yourself if you were driving a manual. And it's much smoother. Even when giving it some beans, you only really know it's doing its thing by watching the rev counter dip. Neither remap was cheap, for sure. Were they worth it? For me, absolutely. No regrets at all. Both remaps were done by the supplying dealer. They just happen to be Racingline dealers too, so it was sort of 'in-house'. There are one or two little things I've done to it which aren't as significant as those, but I think it's better for them. It's all massively subjective, of course. I thought the rear lights (the indicator and reversing light bit) looked a bit naff, so I put a grey Oracal tint on those bits of the lenses as well as swapping the wheezy and slow indicator bulbs for LEDs which snap on and off much more satisfactorily. Didn't do it for extra brightness, just so that they didn't look so last century. The wing mirror repeaters are now Kopacek sweepers, just because I think they look nicer, and the mirror caps are satin silver rather than the standard black ones. Nose badge is a Kopacek black and body colour job instead of the chrome and black original. The wing mounted Sport badges are no more because I thought they looked like things you win at a fairground by shooting tin ducks with a bent air rifle. The boot LED was utterly weedy so got replaced by a brighter pcb with 3 LEDs instead of one, though not the kind that Kopacek supply which you could play five-a-side under and costs a fortune. The door pockets were lined with a kit that someone else (Irfant, if I remember right) had used, and I put an anti-glare matte screen protector on the infotainment screen because it was horrible and shiny and constantly covered in greasy fingerprints. You just can't see them any more. I wish I could do the same with that awful piano black nonsense around the gear shifter and the aircon controls. Piano black is pants. It looks rubbish to begin with, never mind when it's covered in scratches two weeks later. That's it, really. Would I have another one? Not at the moment. This one is the mutt's nuts.

Hi, it is trunk organizer. Hliníková přepážka pro plastovou...Hliníková přepážka pro plastovou vanuJednoduchým zasunutím do vylisovaných drážek v plastových okrajích vany vytvoříte oddělené prostory pro převážené předměty.

Off topic of pre orders, but I took delivery of my dealer stock Elroq 85 Edition this morning, so if anyone want's any info please ask, happy to help!

Opened the passenger door and the door pocket caught on the rubber seal…snap! It can go naked for now, it has been repaired before and every original connection point is broken. It looks okay like that and also gives weight savings.

You can see it in use on this review….

Success, I managed to get the offending bolt out with the home made bodge, a long-ish easy-out filed to size, 5.5mm long socket glued on with Araldite and a ratchet, usinng the EGR and the ratchet together provided the force required to get it out, wohoo. If anyone ever needs to borrow the tool let me know, it will go into my box of useful things and is freely available to memebers. Now for finding a replacement bolt.. Alasdair, thanks for the suggestion, wasn't needed in the end. as an aside, can I change the header to add (solved)?

A few other things when I asked what to look for... "If a pre facelift make sure it has not had the "fix" put the vin into the link below, if it says the fix is available it is safe, if it says the fix is not required walk away: https://skoda-recallactions.skoda-auto.com/210/en-GB " "Unless you want a water feature avoid the sunroof models" "Check the touch screen is functioning properly, the original basic Bolero so far seems unaffected but there is a growing failure rate amongst the later infotainment models fitted." Some other things that have just come to my mind. Something that isn't spoken about but does need to be kept logged in your mind if you're going for a 4x4 Yeti. The Angle Drive box which rotates the drive 90 degrees from the front wheels so it can head to the Haldex and Rear Diff. This has its own oil to which Skoda claim "filled for life". When manufactures use the term "filled for life", they normally mean until the warranty is up or about 10 years. That needs changing roughly every 40 to 50 thousand miles. The same goes for the rear diff oil, another "sealed for life" item I believe but needs doing at the same sort of frequency 😀. There is also a great post here for you to have a read of for other things to look for: https://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/threads/older-yetis-with-higher-mileage-things-to-expect.5008/?post_id=55914&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-55914

I know the reply is late...But after having the differential oil changed at an independent garage in October 2024. Mine started making a slight drone noise between 10 and 14mph as soon as i left the workshop i put it down to tyre noise!! It sounded like it was coming from the rear, the tyres were unevenly worn too...I did initially chase it and had a lead in time to get it back in to be looked at after 2½ weeks time from leaving the workshop. Life got in the way and I never took it back with a view to investigating in April 2025 when she was on the ramps and having an underbody check and video, that they do for cash for me on the side, during my DIY service periods. She never made it to April...in February 2025 she made a lot of noise on a very short trip about 10 miles that sound like a bag of bolts suddenly at mileage 9.5...limped to place where I was going and went to reverse into a space and reverse gear failed, nothing would work and I blocked the road, wouldn't even move in neutral. Recovered home and then recovered to that independent garage later the following week. Initially they said the rear differential had failed...I argued about this as I'd had all oils changed (lifetime rear diff oil...no such thing in my head, haldex oil, DSG oil and lifetime front differential oil) at the same time, as I was having the main engine rear oil seal replaced as that was leaking! I then said I want a second opinion from the actual owner of the garage and all the oils analysed as even though the correct oil had been purchased and supplied i had visions of them putting Haldex oil in there or draining the wrong part and had left it dry. They did that and I paid for analysis, still waiting for them results to come back. I wasnt happy to just replace a £7k rear differential new before labour charges and also they were hard to obtain even if I wanted too. Noone wanted to repair the parts on them (diff specialists) as they couldn't source the parts from TPS or other VAG sources and they weren't cost effective for the parts they could. After listening to me requesting a second opinion the owner and the no.2 man there, went out together to try and replicate the fault and they did numerous times and then said it was coming from the front! From here it was determined the front transfer box had failed i instructed them to open it up, which they did and found that it had started destroying itself...See video link below. https://vv2u.co/jPKSwk It hadn't grenaded like they do on the A3 and S3 and blew a hole in the casing but it was still damaged and not working anymore. They've blamed the draining of the old oil had dislodge something and possibly caused a bearing or a tooth to hit on another bit of metal and destroy itself. Im now looking for a second hand part as we speak and for someone to consider repairing this one at a price for me. By the way I didn't have the leak...just the noise, oil was still in there. G

Provided the seller hasn’t deleted it its always worth looking at the Driving Data history; since start, last refuelling, overall. The avg speed, distance, mpg can give some insight into usage especially when linked to mot mileages. 7 yrs old personally I’d want to see a recent cambelt replacement or get price reduced to cover it. Regular annual oil and filter changes are important.

New (to me) '71 plate iv Sportline Plus.

Hello all, We’re away in France for 3 months and from reading elsewhere on the internet I was lead to believe that due to the sat nav gps locating you, that the lights would auto adjust their kick on on the left. This isn’t the case, and whilst it’s fine most of the time the wagon drivers really don’t like it 😆 Does anybody know how they adjust? There isn’t an option on settings like there seemed to be on the first Karoq. Like i said it’s a 22 plate with matrix lights. Thanks

Hello all. I bought a 2016 SEL 2.0tdi Estate in black, manual shift with 19" wheels when it was 2 years old with around 8k on the clock. It has been the best car I have ever owned in overall terms. Hard to better. Spacious, smooth, ridiculously economical, quick enough in real world motoring, and good to look at. So once it reached just under 50k miles recently I decided that the only thing to replace it was - another nearly new Superb! I have bought a '23 plate L&K hatch 190 tsi, dsg box. As expected, the tech is more up to date, but there are a few things that to me indicate that some costs have been cut along the way since my earlier car. My old car had lovely thick front mats with "Superb" embroidery. The new car doesn't. Just a small point but presumably a money-saver. The old car had cooling air in the glove box as well as the centre console. The new one only has it in the centre console, unless I am missing something. My old car had luggage nets, which I am not sure if they were standard or not, but I miss those. On the tech side, I made the mistake yesterday of turning down the setting on my heated seat whilst sat at some traffic lights. Immediately the navigation map on Apple car player that I was following disappeared and was replaced by a graphic showing how many lights were illuminated on the heated seat. This seems unnecessary to me. On the plus side, both front seats on the L&K are electrically adjustable and seem a bit more comfortable than my old SEL. The DSG gear box changes smoothly up and down , and changes can be made manually very quickly. In traffic I could drive more smoothly with the manual, albeit with more left leg action required! The Canton sound system is definitely a step up, but overall, I feel that the plethora of electronic gizmos such as virtual cockpit are very obvious, but they do not for me , and this is only my opinion of course, represent a step forward, and the 24 model with its "ipad plonked on the dashboard" as made popular by Tesla looks even worse to me. It is still a highly competent car of course. I would love to know what others think.

In my particular case the ECU remap bumped the premium by round about five or six percent. It’s difficult to be more specific because there were other factors involved. The TCU remap didn’t affect it. As far as my fuel consumption goes, the difference is minimal. My semi-educated guess would be if you tootled round like my aunt Wendy you’d likely see a modest increase in mpg because the extra torque gives the engine a somewhat easier time, but there are an awful lot of variables. If I said I tootled round like my aunt Wendy I wouldn’t be telling the truth, and having spent a not inconsiderable amount of money on jammy dodgers I’ve no intention of leaving them in the biscuit tin. It’s not terribly helpful, really. Sorry 🙁

I do. Here you go.

Not in any model that I'm aware of. Certainly not in the Kodiaq and Octavia.

TE 1-968851-3

Then maybe a faulty camera. I have mine also taking power from the rear wiper and plugged in the quad lock and everything is ok. Nothing really different from yours.

Yeah I found it really useful, but took some of it with a pinch of salt because it’s a European spec car which I believe has differences to UK. The bull horn rear headrests for example - Europe gets them but we don’t.

I meant to include a comment about only 1 key too. Definitely ask the seller why there is only one, if it’s a dealer they will have knocked the seller down because of the missing key in order to cover the cost when it’s sold because everyone wants 2 keys.

Unfortunately not...first thing i checked on test drive..i have USB in rearview mirror on my current MG so will miss that very handy feature when i trade her in. Also no 12v socket in front with the Elroq means i have to get a new USB-C to Micro USB cable so my existing dash cam will work.

i had this problem on a suv at the dealer when I was in sales, car had had a small touch in the rear and the tailgate must have misaligned with the lock. Try when is up, to "wiggle it" a little from side to side and see if it locks properly. If not you might need to look into adjusting the latch, although it would be strange to "come loose", is not impossible. I had this happening on a 307SW many years ago ... the rattling waiting for the appointment to the dealer was hideous 😁

You don’t really want ADAS systems powered by a fuse tap, you need a secure connection that cannot be affected by vibration

I’d give Apple Music a try too as the audio quality is higher than Spotify

I will message you later, I think I can help. 🙂

It'll be interesting what other people's opinions are, but I think sometimes you can think far too much about buying a car and end up putting far too much pressure on your own shoulders. Alana and I was in the same position as you @Vfr400boy in that we were looking for a Yeti and we too had never spent so much money on a car before. The reality is, providing it's got a good MOT history, comes back clean on a online checking site and the Yeti ticks the boxes that you have set, you've completed all you can do from the comfort of your home. Once you get to looking at the car, unless you want to roll around on your back under the car, you're somewhat limited as to what you can check. What you can check are... Car sales place... Do your background on the company. Do they have a new name every year? Have they been trading long? Is it 2 signs on a portacabin and 1 computer in an office that could disappear in an hour if they wanted to be? From looking at their stock you should get a rough idea if they buy blindly from an auction and don't have a clue what they actually own. Or if they somewhat hand pick their cars. Walkaround of the car... Are the tyres in good shape with reasonable tread? What make of tyres does it have on? A good brand probably shows the previous owner probably had a bit of care and money for the car than someone that sticks the cheapest brand of tyre on which could mean it's only had work done on it when it's had to have had rather than on a routinely basis. Does the suspension look to be in good condition with no leaks on the legs? If you stash some tissue you in your pocket, give the oil a quick dip to check the level and to make sure it doesn't come out white and creamy. Is the coolant a nice pink colour and hasn't been mixed? Stick your head under the front of the car and check for any leaks. Be careful of stoney surfaces that cars can be sold on as this can hide the signs of leaks. Have a really close look at all the panels and bumpers, do they look straight and do the bumpers line up. Or has it had a dink in its life that's been patched over? Check the cills of the car to make sure they haven't had a cill to high kerb interface. Check that the number plates front and back have the same maker on the bottom of them. If one has a different name at the bottom compared to the other, question in your mind, why would only 1 be replaced? Give a good check all over for any rust patches that might need work doing. Look for condensation in any of the lights which could indicate a duff seal or maybe that they have had a minor bump and they have a little crack somewhere. If you buy a cheap OBD2 bluetooth dongle, plug it into the OBD2 port of the car, download an app light Torque Lite and do a scan of the ECU to see if there are any codes on the ECU which could indicate trouble. Have a little check for the exhaust condition and security. That's a walkaround of the car done, onto the mechanicals... Does it start up prompt or is it a bit slow and lazy which could indicate and new battery or starter motor might be needed. Make sure the bonnet is raised before starting it so you can listen for any strange noises or rattles when it's started from cold. If the engine is close to or at running temperature when you get to it, wonder why they have chosen to show you the car warm/hot. Turn the steering from lock-to-lock, any strange sounds and does it turn nicely? Check for smoke out the exhaust. Anything other than condensation, walk away. Give it a rev to check it revs nicely and isn't stuttery or has a misfire. Check the controls in the car all work as they should. Turn on the air con to make sure it works and hasn't got pump issues. Press on the brake, does it go firm and hold its firmness or does the pedal slowly head to the floor? Put it in gear with the handbrake on and slowly lift the clutch. Is the handbrake in good condition and holds the car? Also, does the car pull and revs die? Or do the revs start to die and then start to recover which could indicate clutch slip? Take it for a drive... Does the car pick up well when you give it maximum throttle? Listen for any rumbles, knock's, whines or just anything out of the ordinary. Do the brakes bring the car to a prompt stop? Is there any pulsing felt under the brake pedal? This could be a sign of a warped disc. If you can find a bit of road, try and brake hard and sharp enough to activate the ABS. With ABS pumps not often being used on cars, you'll be surprised how often this can flag a warning when used because something has gone dicky in the ABS system. Try and give the car a little zig-zag to move the weight of the car from side-to-side to make sure there are no suspension or wheel bearing issues. Try and get a feel for the gearbox to make sure it slots into each gear nicely. Put the heating on, does it warm up nice and quickly and get to a good temperature? Paperwork... Does it come with any or did the 3rd owners dog eat it all? If it does come with paperwork, have a good flick through to make sure what's in it tally's up with what's been advertised. Is the paperwork in date order or is it all over the place? This gives a good indication as to what type of person owned it previously. Does it come with a single key or 2? Go with a list on your phone of jobs that have meant to be done and maybe note how often so you can see what you have or haven't got to play catch-up with on the maintenance. Coolant changes, did it have a water pump when done? Timing belt. Oil and filters changed. Brake fluid. The biggest winner for Alana and I was the next 2 following items... Does the sales person leave you to look at the car or do they hover over you like a bad smell? Do they trust you enough to take it for a drive on your own with a set of plates on the car? I have gone into far more detail than even I expected to with this post. Even though it looks like a wall of text, it's not actually that much when you're looking at a car and most of it I'm sure you're already well aware of. 😁

They are the 20" yeah.

I wonder would the mirror USB be enough to power both? It should be easy enough to route through the roof or floor trim. I installed a reverse camera on my previous mkIII and it was pretty easy to route the cables from the dash through the trim along the bottom with the right tools, get yourself a cable/wire puller thingy which makes it so much easier.

Ahhh but there's only the two of us....

@Lee Thanks. I did see guys back and fore into the garden months back and full harnessed up / rope access type gear and a contractor. My son is in Rope Access and i looked but never paid attention, i thought '3 fellers' From Ireland....

@Ootohere that red tag is I strongly suspect a 'D' marking - decayed, do not climb so hence the scaffolding. No hoist access either. The two labels at the bottom means it's been inspected at least twice so Openreach will be aware but probably can't do much about it without the land owner granting access for their equipment Ideally that pole will need changing out but looks like difficult access for the poling wagon with it's mechanical augur and pole arm.

Bingo.

The oil check procedure is designed for checking the level when you're out on a run so the engine will be hot. Typically. stop for fuel, refuel, check oil. So hot, with engine stopped for a few mins. In practice I find the level to be pretty similar when checking stone cold. The dipstick does take a good tug.

Within that diagnostic fee - the first hour - they should be able to do the work to do the CP removal.

5Q0121407AA

Thanks for your feedback. I try to document myself to this future operation as much as I can :) Fyi : eventually find out I have an MQ100 gearbox (gearbox UDB, gearbox diff. MQ100 don't know what these all mean but googling a bit helped)

As regards the 'only one key' , a recent thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512721-karoq-replacement-key-options/#comment-5914815 said Hello, I recently bought a Karoq with only one key . Would like a second . Dealer is quoting £393 .

Missed the chance for a photo (was travelling on the motorway), but that's the Fabia ticked over 98,000 miles now. I will make sure there's a photo of it hitting 100k!

@Ootohere can you post a pic of the pole they say they need scaffolding for and any markings on the pole itself if you have time. I'm interested in any markings carved into it, round white tags nailed onto it, a red D marking or a yellow and white A1024 notice. It's strange as an ex BT pole climber they say they need scaffolding to work on it.

I don't have a new car. I have a standard 2017 2ltr petrol Kodiaq full-fruit and a 2017 1.4ltr Octavia Wagon 7DSG. If I get any more issues with the mechatronic system on the Kodiaq (had a few replacements in the last 18mths, although I don't think it's actually what's been causing my issues) I'll probably move it on and get something else. I'd like a Enroq but a bit pricey for me and doesn't have as much as my old Kodiaq (go figure!!). The new Kodiaq is good, but have been considering PHEV vehicles as well. I'd like to have the EV for commuting to work, with the ICE for long trips (which I do regularly)

I suspect there may be one or more software updates to be done. As a SEL FE from 2020 it will probably have had similar faults to mine - and I went through similar emotions to you. My suggestion is to book the car in and let the dealer do their thing with the diagnostics - and point them at s/ware dates too. There are known faults with fixes. Down side is any warranty may not cover the updates, but if it’s a know fault then there’s a good argument that Škoda should pay not you.

Not the best photo. The TCMU connector block is right in the way. But if you search some you tube videos for the change you'll see what it is like at the balance shaft end! It is captive until you release the pulley. And you need a right angle pneumatic wrench of similar I think.

The car is amazing! It offers a lot of space and room for its size. The boot is probably the largest in its class. We got the Monte Carlo Plus 1.5 TSI and additionally ordered ACC, Active Line Assist, and the Winter Pack Premium. Our entertainment system is BOLERO without navigation, as we only use Waze or Sygic. My everyday car is the SUPERB III Estate / Sportline. My wife is the primary driver of the Fabia :-) but for me, the car is brilliant – dynamic, quiet, the seats are very comfortable, the headlights are excellent, and it’s truly a pleasure to drive. So far, I haven’t found any drawbacks... except that the glovebox no longer has cooling.

Sorry, why don’t you just put the music in your phone, and use CarPlay. It will work perfectly. My old Subaru had a 30pin to hardwired input and my wife still has an iPod nano plugged into a media port in the glovebox of her Polo GTI. In the end you can only resist the march of progress so much. Get Apple Music or Spotify and excellent wireless CarPlay system. Or if you have a large amount of hand curated tracks, put them on your iPhone.

There is no doubt that it is a little noisier than our previous model. This is particularly noticeable on automatic cruise control. When the car accelerates, engine noise is quite obvious but in manual control it is not too bad and the car keeps up well in busy traffic. Fuel economy is better and my car washer says it is easier to clean with fewer gaps and voids. We do like it.

I believe rockbox will display as mass storage which the car should read - although at that stage you may as well just put it on a cheap USB stick and save the cycles on the ageing iPods battery.

First wash for Gandalf for 2025. Scrubs up well after almost 8 yrs 😁

On my 21 car, the adjustment isn't in settings. It is in Vehicle, then settings, then lights. If you do find it there and change the setting, don't just select and then go back to menu as the setting will not change. You must go back until you are on the menu screen.

Took her with 175k 2012 cave. Some minor fixing needed such as changing spark plugs etc. A rare find in the UAE.

the problem was the fan module. It was sticking on sometime when activated either through temp sensor or when performing a regen. Whole new unit was needed. Hope it helps anyone with a similar issue