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Thought I'd get a coffee at the local reservoir after my pre-dawn sojourn and spotted an odd (? leucistic) looking duck🤔

The portable tester is giving the right sort of results. 11.9 is a little low but if it's the original battery it's not too bad. The engine on reading is spot on. That does not mean the battery is taking charge. You will lose nothing by putting the battery on trickle charge overnight.

Tried a few different spots but too cloudy unfortunately. The Moon put in a very brief appearance but not much to see sadly☹️ On the plus side I got to watch the sunrise and listen to the dawn chorus 🐦🙂

No, the different thicknesses are for piston crown to block deck height, since you're not changing anything then you simply need a duplicate of whichever gasket is already fitted.

There must be 1.5 million BEV,s in the UK by now then the other electrified cars and fires of these seem not to be that common. It is like some very sad vloggers are waiting to wet their pants in excitement when there are fatalities, Homes or blocks of homes or car parks or other buildings going on fire. The comments on many Youtube postings about the Government not allowing reports of EV fires is just odd. The UK Government can not organise a pith up on St Patrick day let alone control the media.

Most, but not all, of what nta16 says is good advice. Your battery will certainly suffer in colder weather if you do lots of short journeys with a lot of stuff, like the AC, turned on. You can't stop the car doing what it likes with the power but even with a properly coded battery the car systems are live for many minutes after you turn off the ignition. In fact the car never goes fully to sleep, if it did the My Skoda app could not work. Cars that are not used frequently benefit from being connected to a battery conditioner. This is specifically designed to keep the battery in the optimum state it does this by cycling between charging and discharging (a little bit). The car will certainly not always use the stop start system, mine does not and it's a lot newer than yours. The key checks: Is the battery properly coded to the car? Is the battery the correct size for the car? By size I'm talking about the capacity to hold charge. Is the battery holding a full charge when the vehicle is switched off at the ignition, if so for how long?

Yes, plug in battery checker probably not that accurate, and once door opened car system will have woken up and started drawing some current making also making reading inaccurate as to true battery voltage. But a reading of 11.9 v low and around 40% of full charge.

A tips for those who do this job. Be sure to fill in 2 stages. It is supposed to be 850-900ml in there, but all will not come out during drain. So at least put in 650-750ml. First fill until drips out of fill hole. Probably only 5-600ml will be initial. Then start engine and put in 1.gear let it reach some temp. If on lifter, just let it run. Or take it for a spin. Then top off again. You will probably be able to get another 100-150ml in now. It doesn't do any harm to overfill a bit, since it is a drain hole on top of the diff/transfer box that will shoot out exessive oil if overfilled when warm. A tip for those of you who replaces dmf or bevelbox, when subframe is already down. You can actually fill bevelbox as usual, but also top off by filling through the mentioned vent hole on top. You will be able to get 800-850ml inside the transferbox without driving it then. The vent hole is on top of the pinion gear ish.

It's a timing chain on the CBZA, but some garages will be happy to take your money for changing the belt.

Hello Briskodians, I would like to offer a repair service for some types of electric window motor module as fitted to a few Skoda models, as well as one or two VWs. At this stage it applies only to two specific, exact part numbers fitted to the driver's side front door, as follows: 6Y2959802 Fitted to later Mk1 Fabia, from around October 2004. 6Y1959801 Fitted to Very early Mk2 Fabia and Roomster until end of October 2007; as well as 9N3 Polo and a few Transporters. (And some late 9N Polos I have learned). Private Message me a VIN if you'd like me to check whether your car has this part number fitted. (As described a few posts below, either of the above part numbers + suffix A on the end can also be repaired. Also happy to try with units of the subsequent generation, with part numbers 6Q1959801F, G, H, or J.) Note that both of these are driver's side units, the difference in part numbering is due to the orientation/positioning of the motor module on the panels they mount to. These parts suffer a type of intermittent, progressive failure where they 'sometimes work fine, sometimes don't work at all'. Eventually they just completely stop working. This is what I can fix for you. I will test your faulty unit, confirm the problem, repair it to full working order and post it back to you for £59, total. You'd post it to me - less than 1Kg so can be sent for around £4.25 on a tracked24 service purchased online at Royal Mail. I would aim to turn it round within 2 days of receipt, and send it back tracked24. This is the what the part looks like: Central locking via remote will still work in the absence of the window module, so you will be able to secure the car as normal while it is away. Obviously you'll want to ensure that both front windows are fully shut, as in the absence of the driver's side module the passenger side one will not operate. New units are no longer available from Skoda/VW, and ebay 2nd hand ones with these part numbers tend to go for big bucks. I will charge you just £59 including return postage. Cheers, Pete Edit 30/08/25: To get in touch, please click on my username which will take you to my profile, with contact info.

Good thought, thanks Lee 👍 I started looking - rims are currently 17". There was an indication 16" are possible without changing brakes, found some rims, but when I try to match them with tyres I get a no: I did find a comment on a Polo owners site that 16" affects the drivability in a negative way. Mrs G said she liked the idea of an ix35/Tucson, but those in her price range are all 2.0 TDI's, which she doesn't want. She also surprised me by saying she doesn't want a Mini - 20 years ago she really wanted one, now it's a no-no. Her current Polo replaced a Mazda 3, which btw is still going strong. Mrs G asked what our Daughter's Fiancé's car is, as she likes it, just not the colour (white). It's a Mazda 3 🤷‍♂️ Gaz

I went to Dumfries this morning and met 4 or 5 car transporters heading towards Cairnryan for the Belfast Ferry. Unfortunately, we were going in opposite directions so it wasn't easy to see what they had on board. I know that some had Audi badges and I would have thought they'd share the ferry from Emden with VW and Skoda to Port of Tyne, storage at Port of Tyne and possibly transport to Belfast. Who knows. Just trying to cheer you up!!

Well done, that's good, but it is early days yet but if it's sorted, or even if not, you have only gained by doing very easy, simple and clean hands of recharging the battery and if it's a repair even better all jobs are best when, easy simple and clean-hands. Many jobs on a car that are serving, maintenance and even repairs boil down to clean and lubricate, engine oil & filter changes, electronic cleaning with clearing error codes or resetting computer stuff. We'll look on the bright side and say that's the end of that unless you report back with a reoccurrence, whether that happens or not I think you've picked up on how important the state of battery charge and health is/can be on these modern VWs with their very complex and intertwined computer systems and programs.

Just been out for a drive after putting the battery back in all seems ok thank you everyone for the advice!

It's not possible to upgarde to 03xx without patching the unit first, e.g. via MIB STD2 Toolbox. You may lose Android/Auto if you have a software patch installed now.

They hook into the silver bar of the load cover

Update from my dealer Good Afternoon Mr Henson, Our team has made contact with Skoda for an update. They have told us that there is a software update and that it is currently in testing. We have been advised not to do any updates until we get further instructions. I will keep monitoring the situation and let you know as I know more.

Got it done. Wasn't too bad once I got the old one out. With the window taped up, I disconnected the motor and unscrewed the panel it was connected to. This allowed enough movement to access the cables and snip them. All pretty straightforward after that. It's working fine, although my part also cost only 30 quid so it may not last very long. But now it's been done it will be easier next time.

I'll take a photo later when the battery check takes place, but the other info... It's a manual, petrol version and it's the SE-L trim model.

That is going to be a VERY dead battery causing all kinds of errors on the CANBUS network. Do a CCA test on the battery. Replace if its 20% below capacity.

Update: I listed on eBay for £12500 was getting offers of £5k! At that point I took it off sale and part ex it. Now a proud owner of a Tesla M3P The Skoda is for sale here https://www.anchorcars.co.uk/used/cars/skoda/superb/2-0-tsi-sportline-hatchback-5dr-petrol-dsg-4wd-eur-4539

The Racingline TCU remap is what they call a 'dynamic' remap. The details are here. Tyres are Bridgestone Turanza All Season 6s. They are 245/40 19s. It's the alternative size for this car. The ones it came with were 225/45 Bridgestone Duelers. The wider section ones it has now do give the rims quite a bit more protection. I'm not convinced I'm making any real sacrifice in ride comfort with them on. It isn't a cushy ride for sure, but I wasn't expecting it to be.

Most recent ones from my two. Milestone moment on the Fabia. This is a 62-plate. My mum bought it with 15,000 on the clock. This was taken a few days ago: Meanwhile, hit this a few weeks ago on the Superb III - a July 2023 car, I bought it in May last year with 5,000 on the clock:

Thanks for the information guys. Going to check with a volt meter later today as well. If the battery does end up being around 11.9, do you think that's a valid reason for me to take it back to them and get them to replace it (as it's appearing to affect stop/start), as I'm less than 3 months into the 1 year warranty.

Thanks all checked the battery and its showing 50% charge so taking it out and giving it a full charge now.

Charges 12V battery when HV is charged, supplies power to 12V system from HV when ignition is on. When ignition is off, no amount of power in HV saves you from flat 12V. When I had issues with 12V that was my question why the hell HV can't charge 12V on its own. Later I learned that many, if not all EVs have the same issue.

Here is a pic of the vent hole that can be used to top off the bevelbox/angle gear/transfer box (same part different names) if subframe is down. It is not possible to reach that vent hole when subframe is mounted. Not at least with my hands. I used a small tube connected to a 200ml big syringe

As I have always said that not all Vloggers are leeches or Rodneys, Mguy does check the facts, as does John Caddogan and so far as I have seen do most of the Vloggers but sometimes in the rush to be the first with the news, they don't always get hold of the truth but do normally put out corrections when they discover the truth. He does get a statement from the LFB where they say that a Journalist was incorrectly told in the first instance that the car was an EV, which is what they were told when called to attend the fire. LFB said that had it been an EV then there was no way that they could have put the fire in such a short period of time. Heathrow tunnel fire was NOT an EV or hybrid | MGUY News 14 March 2025

Sorry, just to explain a bit more here as I don't think I explained correctly. I was going to attach an external battery charger to the battery to try to fully charge it to see if that makes the stop/start any more efficient. So I guess I should have said "can this be done without disconnecting the battery" then (if I had to disconnect the battery) "what effect would this have on the car. I am not sure of the age of the battery, as I bought the car 2nd hand (it's a 69-plate Kamiq). I attached one of those cigarette lighter port battery checkers in this morning before starting the car (I know they are not that accurate but a starting point...) The values returned were:- Engine off = 11.9 Engine on after a few seconds = 14.3 Thanks!

Thanks AG Falco but my mate has got VCDS so gonna do it tomorrow for me. I'll be back if there's any problems though 🙂

Well done. I have a few bits and pieces created kicking about. Have a cheap socket set that gets welded and abused for exactly the same reasons. Best bit I bought was a flexi extension bar for those nuts and bolts that you cant quite get to

Hi, for ambient light you need to use the Pin3 from the original connector, it's the Blue/Gray cable.

You'lL know when you find a good one because you've looked at a few now. We are on Yeti number number EIGHT and nothing major has gone wrong with any of them yet ! Service record and rust bubbles on lower doors. That's All you need to worry about.

Very likely that there is a problem with either the battery or, possibly, the alternator charge rate - my money would be on failing battery. Battery disconnection is highly improbable to improve the issue - but will not affect any settings, there will likely be several transient faults indicated when the battery is reconnected, which will all clear after a short drive and turning the steering from lock to lock. Do you do a lot of short runs? How old is the battery?

I bought rubber floor and boot mats for my new Superb from the site below (linked to the car dealer) - the discount they had on last month made it cheaper than my local dealer. A reasonable selection of Superb IV accessories, and they also answered my queries very quickly. I'll definitely buy from them again the next time they are discounting. https://www.caffynscarparts.com/

I claim no expertise in matters relating to electrickery, but it is not clear (to me) from what you have said what purpose it will serve to disconnect the battery. My first thought about your issue was that it might be a problem with the battery or with the alternator or its charging regime - and that, I assume, is what you are seeking to check. Disconnecting the battery does open up the possibility of various ancillaries losing their settings and needing to be re-set. There is nothing to stop you from just charging the battery without disconnecting it, if that is simply what you are seeking to test.

If you do that the hooks can slid along the rail. I hook the straps over two hooks and seperate them so the straps are tensioned and the bag doesn't fall off

Our 2016 L&K 280 has ventilated seats at the front, AC cooled glove box and centre console, remote release rear seats and a TV tuner. It’s now covered 51k and has been absolutely reliable with the exception of the NSR wheel speed sensor failing three years ago, a split in the AC condenser, the usual water pump failure and a new battery which I needed two years ago. Servicing costs are nuts due to the complexity of the 4X4 system, but I really don’t care as I have no intention of parting with the car. It’s the most comfortable car I have owned, now the quietest car I’ve owned and by far and away, the fastest car I’ve ever owned or had as an allocated company car.. and I’ve had Escort, Sierra and Granada Cosworths, Fiat Coupe Turbos, Nissan 200SX and ‘00’s of other so-called high performance cars. I really do think the 280/272 Superb will become collector Q cars in the true sense of the moniker, especially given the insane levels of tune the EA888 engines can achieve. But even with a stock vehicle, the acceleration, handling and grip are excellent for “normal” drivers. I love it! 👍🏻

I meant to include a comment about only 1 key too. Definitely ask the seller why there is only one, if it’s a dealer they will have knocked the seller down because of the missing key in order to cover the cost when it’s sold because everyone wants 2 keys.

Finally did the RARB upgrade and I'm super happy with the results. Went for a whitelines bar, and the difference is night and day. Most obvious on sharp turns and roundabouts, but generally feels more planted and consistent.

@zom414 Where in the UK are you. PM me, if you are local to me. Thanks. AG Falco

feel free to update as soon as possible, the previous version you had was one of the oldest 😉👍

An update, there is no such settings on the newer standard LED Karoqs. But they don’t have the kick up to the left in the same way halogen lamps did. I’ve had thhis confirmed by both Skoda and a good local independent. This matters to us as we’ll be moving to France soon and would like to keep our car.

I was there last Saturday. Well, visiting friends right by there. And ones up Woodside Ave.

Hello! I build turbo and intercooler on my fabia 1.2htp.. Is it someone out there who have a ecu map or something that can work with this setup? Runs about 0.5-0.7 bar turbo boost. It goes in limp mode when its goes too high on rpm... Its totally home build😆

Hi, I have a Fabia 2 with the 51kw engine too, you can get oil supply from the oil pressure sensor because it has a threaded design and you can put a pipe between the pressure sensor and the block. If you have any questions let me know.

Then be smart and disconnect the current sensing shunt lead to revert to a standard battery charging profile.

EV Skoda Enyaq a recent acquisition. On-line manual a pain to investigate. Is there a PDF of the full manual available?

It's best to start with four matching new tyres and rotate them so that they wear out together. You might want to choose the two innings method, the three innings method, or the four innings method. I prefer the three innings method. Notice that with the three innings method, the second innings lasts twice as long as the first and third innings. However, with all three methods all the tyres will be on the front and back for 20,000 miles. The below examples assume that the tyres will last 40,000 miles. With the two innings method, the tread depths will be more mismatched at some points than the other methods. I prefer the three innings method to the four innings method because the tread depths are just as closely matched, but you only need to rotate the tyres twice rather than three times. Notice that with the three innings method, the second innings lasts twice as long as the first and third innings. Two innings method First innings Drive 20,000 miles Second innings Drive 20,000 miles Three innings method First innings Drive 10,000 miles Second innings Drive 20,000 miles Third innings Drive 10,000 miles Four innings method First innings Drive 10,000 miles Second innings Drive 10,000 miles Third innings Drive 10,000 miles Fourth innings Drive 10,000 miles

Apologies for the delay - managed to get Covid and then got hospitalised! How-to for 7 seater spacesaver installation, (car originally equipped with can of slime and a compressor), if it's of any use to anyone. Lift out the rearmost floor panel. Flip up the two side covers and lift out the "modesty curtain" Lift out the separator board Pull the tabs to release the Row 3 seat base. You don't have to do this next bit, but it makes access a bit easier. I popped the gas struts off their bottom mountings to allow the seat base to lift higher. Then tied the seat base to the head rest bars to keep it up out of the way. Pull out the carpet and take out the foam tray for the compressor and tyre repair "slime". This exposes the wheel recess and captive nuts for the steel retaining bar that goes over the front edge of the spacesaver tyre. Tighten the 4 screws to secure the steel retaining bar to the captive nuts. It should look like this, with the top of the retaining bar just under the leading edge of the seat. Fit the curved bit of carpet. It's a bit fiddly, it goes AHEAD of the steel retaining bar and then the ears at each side face backwards. Peel off the backing and glue down the two side pieces of carpet. Fit the spare wheel with the yellow speed warning labels facing DOWNWARDS and push the plastic retaining screw down into the slotted steel pressing on the floor of the car below the centre hole in the wheel then turn it 90 degrees to lock it. Fit the new foam tray just behind the wheel. Secure the tray with the two Torx-headed plastic push nuts. There are studs already in the steel floor to accept them. DO NOT over-tighten! The jack handle goes in first, under the jack. I wasn't quite sure where all the other bits go, but I think it's like this: Fit the new piece of rear carpet over the tool tray. Fold the forward edge up at right angles and push the Fir tree clips into the holes already in the rearmost round bar forming the Row 3 seat base.