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Thanks guys. That's pretty unequivocal! Rest assured, I won't be going there.

This may be repeating something from elsewhere, but I thought it might be worth mentioning in case anyone is in a similar position. I took my wife’s 2021 Octavia IV in for MoT yesterday and the dealer said there was a new software update they needed to do. I said OK to that. The car drove home normally and I parked it by the house. 8pm, the alarm went off. I silenced the alarm with the fob, and got in the car and the dash was flashing like a Christmas tree. Engine would not start. Error messages around ‘put car in P’ alternating with ‘P not available’ and parking brake error. Brake pedal pulsed against my foot when I pressed it, even with engine off. The car basically went mad, so I left it and went indoors. Half an hour later, I went out to check and the car was dead. No dash, no interior lights, no response to key fob. Doors remain unlocked, but rear hatch is locked and can’t be opened. I phoned the dealer this morning, and he tells me that this was the first car they had applied the update to. Immediately they had done it, they got a call from Skoda UK to tell them not to apply the update as it had been found to be faulty. Obviously too late to do anything about it. So we have a dead car, and are waiting for RAC to recover it to the dealer so they can attend to it. Just a heads-up.

Had a conversation with the dealer today and delivery to them by ECM is scheduled for tomorrow morning. Signed lots of pieces of paper and they now propose handover on Friday 28th. That should miss the DVLA Computer crash on 31st. 🤞

The "upgraded" Columbus in the MIB3 FL Superbs is a very bad development compared to older ones. Not simply clever.

Yes it comes in £350 under the £40k at list

The RH probe looks contaminated or damaged - try gently running a screwdriver down the flutes to see which. That is very likely to be the cause of your intermittent issue. If cleaning the probes does not work, it is a very easy DIY job to replace the EV tank. The probe connector looks OK to me.

Arranged delivery today for 7th April 🥳

Formatting the card won't touch the security partition

Thanks a lot, guys! I will try and do all these things, I will be aware of what is happening and also try to drive the car more - of course. Hope the battery is ok. :)

The socket will have a part number on it but... eBay8 Pin Connector Wiring Harness Prewired Plug For Audi Sko...8 pin connector used on many vehicles in the VAG range.

Only one way to find out, get it steamed off so it's spotless, then run it and monitor.

No, just no. Please, no. Halfords are absolutely useless. My girlfriend insisted on Halfords doing hers, and the guy ran the rear cable in the boot seal (so it's pinched when the boot is shut) rather than under the seal or, god forbid, through the wiring grommet/boot. They do not know what they are doing. I honestly wouldn't let them put a dust cap on my wheel. This is not bias, but rather experience (from dropping the wiper arm on a windscreen, cracking it, to some muppet trying to put power through the OBD port on a car with a dead battery, frying something). Your Occy has an airbag in the pillar, and you want that done properly (I.E. routed carefully behind it). I've done quite a few cars, and even went as far on my Octavia to Dremel a small hole in the mirror housing, so there isn't a single cm of cable visible. I promise it isn't that hard! If you'd like, I can spend 15 mins tonight, grab some photos and do you a little step by step of what's needed? The only tools you need are a 50p trim removal tool, some zip ties and a screwdriver. The tools you want to do a proper job are the trim removal tool, some cloth tape, some washers (depending on where you ground it), some electrical tape, Torx bits, etc. Cloth tape is a nice touch as it stops anything rubbing/rattling over time. The goal of a dash cam install is to have something you don't see, hear or think about, until you need it. Hardwiring may sound quite daunting, but if you can replace a fuse and loosen a screw, you're qualified for the job. My Octavia took me a good day or so to do, but that's because I was extremely anal in making it perfect. I recently did a 2024 Ibiza FR and it took about 40 minutes for the front, and about 20 for the rear. You don't need to worry about lane assist - the camera is in the mirror and physically cannot be interfered with. I had the whole mirror/camera housing off when I did mine, and routed the cable behind the camera unit to keep everything tidy. The headliner isn't the most resistant thing, and I'd far rather do it myself, carefully, than have Halfords break it. The only issue you might run into is that you may have DAB interference. I'm 21 and don't remember the last time I used the radio, but YMMV. If you really don't want to do it, you can get companies to install it for you (or even Nextbase IIRC). The 522GW is a good camera. I've tried Amazon ones, Viofo and Nextbase. Currently I use a 622GW, but you only really need a 322GW. I use mine to record track days, so wanted 4K with the extra stabilisation - I don't use the Alexa stuff. I chose Nextbase over Viofo as I can hide the camera completely behind my mirror, whereas the Viofo line are a bit bulkier. The Nextbase app is a bit rubbish, and I've had a wifi card die on my old 322GW, but otherwise I've covered probably 100,000 miles without issue. The Garmin line are also worth a look - I just already had the Nextbase wiring in my car when I upgraded to the 622GW and couldn't be bothered to change it all.

Temperature plays a huge role in the behaviour of tyre compounds. An all-season/winter tyre will be a firmer compound that provides a bit less grip, but maintains this grip throughout a wide range of temperatures. A UHP/summer tyre will be a softer compound that provides more grip, but maintains this grip within a much narrower, and warmer, spread of temperatures. In the cold, this softer compound hardens up, reducing grip, ride quality, etc. If you're not interested in performance (dare I say that in a 1.6 Superb I'd hope you aren't!) then some all season tyres will offer better grip in colder weather and better NVH (unless they have a very grippy tread pattern). UHP tyres also wear much faster and in general offer less efficiency (and more grip). I live on the south coast of England, and run UHP summer tyres all year round. It's icy for about two days a year here, and on those days I just take it easy. OP lives in Kent, not somewhere with proper winters - and besides, I've driven in foot-deep snow with Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S on, without real issue. Heck, I've even been in a track prepped Clio RS in the ice running semi-slicks - not the best experience mind. It's a 1.6 Superb not a tuned M3 and OP isn't driving through snow drifts, or 45°C deserts. Do get a brand (rather than some Linglongs) but for your use, anything from Michelin, Bridgestone, Pirelli, Conti, Falken, Avon, Goodyear, Hankoo or Yoko will do. Black Circles is a good place to compare prices. Your location, car and driving style doesn't warrant anything special with regard to specific winter or summer tyres.

Hi, I bought 2021 Skoda Octavia mk4 one month ago with ambition package and swing infotainment system. I was wondering if someone who knew better would plese tell me what is the latest infotainment update. I currently have 1805.

I'm not sure to be honest as I'm not familiar with the mk4... My guess is that removing fuses will disable things but maybe create more warnings.

Yeah I think there's a lot of contamination on the right. Try cleaning it. But there is some on the left as well. If it comes back. You'll have to go looking for the source contamination. The tanks leak in the recess where the connector plugs in. Best to remove connector when hot to check. Spray some soapy water, check for bubbling. The electrical connectors have ring seals in them. So once plugged in if you introduce pressurised water or steam, it gets pushed into the cable strands and along the cable.. the cable sheath acts as a pipe.

Not all come with a mode button. Mine doesn't. :) There's the trouble of deleting it, but there's also the trouble of installing one. :D It would be nice if there's a chance of having the driving modes in the menu anyway - I think @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits has a solution for it - IIRC, they offer them in the SWAP codes list...

Talk about cutting it fine 🙂

From what I understand, tuning the engines wasn't the issue - it just put more strain on sometimes flawed components that were already weak. HIPERFLO is some serious stuff, proper race juice.

I have had 6 of them, bought as rejected cars returned to Skoda or accident damaged. Repaired and sold. I ran one on the road and had one for the 1/4 mile sprints and hill climbs. I still have a rolling shell but sold the tuned engine and DSG. Car will be rebuilt to be a sleeper sometime. PS. Remaps were fine. Not the REVO map though. I ran stage 2 and 230 bhp. Blueprinted. Built by a great engine builder in Dundee that was a Hillman Imp race driver. He knew how to do potential crap engines to not eat them selves. Hiperflo 250 102 Ron petrol. Road car standard engine, stage 1 and running on Tesco momentum. DSG with clutches from Australia and software. Denso plugs. Put the original engine in it to sell. It was 1 of the first 50 into UK 2010. Still on the road someplace. A few of the early demonstrators were owned by members here. They were not allowed sh!,te.

If only everything in life was as reliable as a Volkswagen! At least, that’s the one where she doesn’t drop the keys down the drain

Surely / Shirley it should. But surely what has gone before may have happened. Or I would not have mentioned it. If only everything in life was as reliable as a Golf. They could go into limp mode , misfire with a sooted plug and no fault code logged. PS. Most of the time or all the time? Tell that to thief that had 1.4 TSI Twinchargers. They liked Cylinder Deactivation even before VW introduced the concept..

Surely though, if the misfire was mild enough to not log a fault code, it would be just the EPC light and not limp mode? EPC doesn't always equal limp home (although it does most of the time).

+1 for this. If you're in limp mode, or have been, there will definitely be at least one DTC logged. Some codes go away by themselves (e.g. alarm activation stage 1), but codes logged into the ECU shouldn't, until cleared. I read misfire codes on my previous car from six years before I bought it. BTW, if you clear a DTC without rectifying a fault, this can sometimes cause a problem to 'go away'. The car will see the problem reading as the new baseline, meaning everything is fine in its world. Unlikely in this case, but just be careful clearing things if your reader doesn't have a history feature (like OBD11, etc).

That reads like it's going into limp mode. Get the fault codes read.

No personal experience but several trusted recommendations - it’s the way I plan to sell mine!

Welcome to the forum. Were the 3 spark plugs out and inspected and the gap checked before given the OK? How many miles has the car done and when were the spark plugs replaced? A failing spark plug can cause the premature failure of an ignition coil.

Hi, welcome. There are a lot of this things that can be or feel like a misfire. You really need to have a scan tool report and perhaps live data to start a diagnosis on these cars with complicated and intwined computer systems but very often the results can take you to the old basics of the ancient technology that an internal combustion engine is. If there is a suspected misfire caused by a coil pack then to check and confirm this isn't difficult, same for spark plug. There could be a coincidence of faulty coil and/or plug and other issue(s) causing the problem but just fitting parts until you hit on the cause isn't usually the most productive way of diagnosis and generally parts and labour costs make an escalating process like this disproportionately expensive. ECP in a 2019 might (or might not) relate to a throttle body issue, does your local garage specialise in VWs, even if not there might be trade information on this available on the databases they have available. If the car is a three-cylinder then having one out of three spark plugs play up will be noticeable, when were they last changed?. A service nowadays is basically just an engine oil and filter change and a look for more chargeable work which isn't even a service of the engine let alone a service for the whole car and the much more important components and systems on the car so forget how many miles or the time to the next service for this issue. Some Briskoda members offer to use their scan tools to at least give reports that will show errors codes that exist, perhaps clear them, perhaps get live data, start of diagnosis, most for beer tokens, a few are professionals so different renumeration. Have a look at the link at bottom of this post to a post in the link for the list and map of these Briskoda members to see if there might be someone suitable able to help you. If you want to you could add to your 'Author's stats' your car's engine and gearbox details as Colour Edition is more about trim level rather than mechanical. HTH. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

Best get it plugged in and read to see if any fault codes logged. Misfired maybe. EPC light on. Have the spark plugs been replaced yet?

Hi, you need to use the Skoda card, as it has a security partition on it. Make sure you copy the existing files to you computer before you format the card. Good Luck

You need to take out a subscription for the Skoda Connect service if you have a in-build SIM and the SOS/Information button in the car and that can be purchased through your MySkoda portal (use a regular computer to access that service). Unfortuntely, you get the remote locking and monitoring as part of that functionality. It does kind of work and I can assure you that it doesn't drain the battery.

That's all you need to know about Halfords. I would echo that, but also warn you that Viofo don't shutdown properly like a NextBase camera. This resulted in a Terminal 15 staying high error message due to the current draw when the car was switched off. I disconnected all that gubbins and the error went away.

yeah he seems to have an mib1. My car originaly came with an amundsen mib1, same small screen but with satnav and dab. You likely won't have carplay on this. you can add a box to have carplay but it is quite pricey, i think in the 200 euros range. downside is when you are on carplay or android auto you can't acces anything else on the systeme. The chinese head units havec been discussed number of times, short story, you get what you pay for. great screen, sound and satnav but extremely poor call quality and hit or miss acces ti car parameters. If you are ok with these drawback then get on, but as personnal experience with several units, save your money and go for a mib upgrade. Yes it is expensive but you have perfect systeme intergration.

The Daily Express would have warned you of Snowmaggedon if there was a hint of even a child spilling a Frosty Drink down your way. EDIT. THEY HAVE, YOU WILL ALL FREEZE, & IN THE NORTH POWER WILL NEED RATIONED SO ENGLAND OR HEATHROW CAN FUNCTION.

Yes. That's generally true also. One of the reasons why you can get a lot of water contamination in oil on short trip vehicles.

Apart from the towbar not retracting, were the warnings being activated before it went in for repair? If not, they broke the connection socket in their attempt to fix it - and they would be responsible for repair to connector.

That sounds like a pretty poor response from the garage. They may not want the work but the pins and wires in those plugs and sockets can be removed and replaced and I'd bet you could get a new plug or even a second hand one from eBay or AliExpress. Doing so would allow you to transfer the wiring over to a replacement which would allow it to be reconnected potentially solving your problem.

Yes, had a new 12v battery and that seems to have solved it. It got to a point where it was happening weekly, I even had to think about how I was parking to make sure the bonnet was accessible for jumping so I took it to my local Skoda dealer and told them to hold onto it till its sorted. They had it for about a month and observed the 12v was ok one minute then the voltage suddenly would drop causing all the error codes, not possible to start and ending with the battery going dead. They finally decided to try a new 12v battery. Strangely the old one still passed Skodas performance test so the garage didnt want to do it under warranty, it became an argument between them and the lease company. In the end Skoda fleet services said they would cover it, it was £ 300 so was even tempted to pay it myself while they were messing around! I had to wait for 2 years to get the car after order so the garage suspected it was most likely parked up waiting for parts and the 12v battery was mismanaged meaning it was defective when I got it, could possibly be the same reason with a lot of them from this time. Skoda had terrible production issues due to covid, wiring harnesses from ukraine and I heard a fire at the Czech production plant! Anyway 6 months on and I have more confidence in the car again, I have had the low 12v battery warning a couple of times but I think that's fairly normal and it quickly disappears when running.

Cheers. We definitely have winter temps through Dec to Feb even where we are; but I was thinking we’re through the worst of it here. Will research the lambing snow thing to see if it’s relevant to the climate as far down here and we get a cold snap too

Dying 12V battery gives all the possible errors indeed. Not too rare all of them except for 12V battery discharging. I never had a full array of errors popping up, but had some exotic ones like electric drive error or gearbox error, and it was due to 12V battery, too.

Forgiven 😄

Obviously the All Season / Winter / Wet Weather / Summer tyre dates might well be a location location location thing and many around much of the UK might never have on Winters, or might keep them on all year if you are in and around the Cairngorms and are not going to ruin them even if the weather gets into the high 20,s Degree C. Odd frosty mornings and sunlight can be anytime, and cold frosty nights or even freezing water on roads at night might be something that happens, not that means that people are going to bother if the have on High Performance Summer tyres, they might just drive with care / caution. Maybe Lambing Snows coming for April in the North East of Scotland this year.

I usually swap last weekend in October until the last weekend in March. I'm in North Germany where winters/ all seasons are mandatory but IMO just go by the weather wherever you happent to be. When I lived on the UK south coast I might change back in something like mid or even early March.

According to the party line from the garage the recall and the damage are unconnected and to be fair, if a crownwheel bolt really did come loose causing the breakdown it is indeed nothing to do with the service campaign. "You welded my daughters car and now she is pregnant!" - yes I really did hear that one once! @UndertheRadar asks the very pertinent question.

I think you need to take your car to a VAG specialist. Driving it until it gets worse when there is already a mechanical noise is not good. So - suspension components were replaced. Are they genuine OEM hardware or third party?

I see Skoda Uk are offering 20% off service plans. Offer located in the infotainment system

Have you checked whether there is a Cocharger host near you? Might be handy.

Yep, in a modern car the electronics which are "always on" (or at least on for ages after you turn off the ignition) have controls to try to protect the battery. These controls will progressively turn off electrical systems in the car so that you have the best chance of starting the engine.

Hi Dave, I think this maybe the car I looked at last week, I was expecting it to be an ex-demo and was surprissed when I found out it had been returned. Anyway I decided not to proceed, more because the car wasn't for me. I did order a new hatch though from the dealer. Just wondering if you found out anything further? If you do proceed I hope all is good as it looked liek a nice car. Dave

Thanks very much I persevered and tried again. I had looked to see if the phone was set to share contacts but hadn't previously selected the specific vehicle that it was linked to. Clicked on the tab and "hey presto" I am now able to make calls connected by the "very useful" Laura! Thanks very much again.