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I finally took the plunge last week and ordered a Cupra Born via salary sacrifice at work. Hoping it will arrive around the end of May (it was a pre configured one that they had a good deal on). It's to replace my wife's Polo GTI but will mostly be driven by me. Plan is to do all my short journeys (15k commuting miles per year) and as many other short journeys as possible on the Cupra and keep the Skoda for our longer trips. I tried to be very pessimistic about the numbers and in a worse case scenario it might not save me that much money but I'm hopeful that if all goes well and I can get most of the charging done for free at work then it could save quite a chunk as well as leaving me with less to worry about (insurance, maintenance etc). And of course I get a brand new and what looks like a nice car (and a free home charger thrown in for good measure).

Tonight's sunset (& 🌛)..........

No, just the people who choose to use them. Seemingly not much chance of that. My final words will be to answer one of your questions: Because I checked the manufacturers date code which is stamped on every new tyre.

As far as part worn , used etc I give away tyres from every new car I get. I take off the rubbish tyres that the car comes with and sometimes within days and sometimes a week or 3 all season are fitted. The tyres coming off are left with the fitter to sell or give away. These are branded OME tyres and Summer tyres, well all seasons really standard UK fit not great in adverse weather conditions often even though like for like replacements might cost twice the price of a nice safe All year round in the UK including the winter tyres. I have over the years swapped tyres that are take offs for tyres that were take offs from other new or nearly new cars. Things are not black or white or the same for everyone. Being a regular customer at tyre fitting places that are local businesses for local people and being generous to the Christmas party or Tea tin can make a difference.

^^^ this. Electricity bought and paid for at chargers or home often much more than the cars electric use driving might show. Charging losses, different charging in cold conditions compared to hotter weather, heating car while sitting in charging or pre-heating while plugged in.

Out with old red, in with the new blue!😁

What we need is a thorough public investigation into the profit levels on EVs, since it seems the RRP is "flexible" which suggests possibly excessive profit margins leading to prices that are high enough to discourage the switch from ICE to EV for many less well off drivers.

Last 6 tyres for 3 different cars that I've bought have been part worns. Mostly less than 3 years old and most looked barely driven on, with 7mm tread. Lots of cars getting scrapped just after new tyres were fitted, for reasons nothing to do with the tyres.

Hi everybody. Owned this little beauty for about 9 months. Upgraded to an Amundsen, fitted H&R springs and a wheel refurb so far.

Seen this afternoon in Maresfield, East Sussex: Bit lopsided and with a dodgy 'zorst, otherwise looked in quite nice nick 😎 Gaz

Its usually the driver that runs out of ability before the tyre does ,as the police tell you in bad conditions slow down.

I would still get a new bottle. The fact that there is oxidsation in the coolant tank also probably means you need a coolant flush.

Same happened with my Zoe. RRP, £34k before subsidies ended and I was getting about 6k off from Renault central and local dealer which pretty sure the car dropped by a couple of K when grants of 2.5k stopped. But then there are always several variables, mainly the rate of exchange Euro to pound and interest rates bot in Euroland and UK. Interest rates dropping and their should be some good deals in q2 and q3 this year, already seeing loans rates at 3.9% down from 5% a few days ago.

Indeed, there's quite a lot of other losses that is not "driving efficiency". For example in summer, I can see cabin overheat protection take off up to 4% a day. This is not counted in driving efficiency. My data is all energy that went into the battery, there may still be a few % of charging loss. But it is certainly more accurate than just looking at what the car records during driving. Energy at point of dispense is the true measurement if we want to get true costs. That's why I had been super pessimistic in my numbers.

I just log my charging versus miles from odometer, like I did for ICE. Basically I measure everything going into the car, so it includes costs for pre-heating, heating, data, app control, charging losses, heat losses etc. My miles per kWh is often lower than those claimed by others who just use the car stats. For instance I just reset my long term trip which was measuring winter consumption... according to that the car did 3.2 miles/kWh over 5400 miles.... my spreadsheet says its more like 2.7 based on kWh charged.

There should have been an investigation when overnight the UK government dropped the grants for EV,s and BMW knocked many thousands £ off i3,s. The kidoligy with giving nice handouts was £5,000 grants and £3,500 grants so that people were buying over priced vehicles.

Amazing! You are telling me I should buy tyres on credit now, given I have had no income since the confinement I have a feeling I know what the answer would be were I to seek credit. I would happily buy and use good used brake discs from a breakers yard but they would cost more than new here. The people making their living through the resale of part worn tyres and their tens of thousands of customers disprove that. Try being a little less judgemental of others.

Driving my car back to the dealer for a return with £20 part-worn Linglong's was an eye-opening experience. I don't think I crossed 55mph the entire time, and driving through the soaking wet countryside (thanks M25 closure) was actually quite unpleasant. Without wishing to come across poorly - if you can't afford new tyres, I don't think you can afford to run a/the car. They are a safety critical item and if a part-worn tyre fails, it is not just your own life that you are putting at risk. I look at it this way - you don't buy part-worn clutches, wipers or brakes, do you? Part-worn tyres often have "lots of life left in them", but so do part-worn brake discs, pads and every other consumable on a car. Ultimately, you might find some part-worn tyres that are in great condition! I have personally sold a couple surplus tyres that had nothing wrong with them - but, you might not be so lucky. Those four tyres are the one thing between you and the road. You don't see part-used parachutes, lifeboats or helmets! Do you really want to gamble your life by saving £40 per corner? I know I don't.

Front console bushes and antiroll bar bushes. Google and search images ... do not spray anywhere near brakes or if windy where over spray will carry. Including inside surface of brake disc.

I need dirty D for long distance airport transfer work and 2019 onwards, nice car though

I don’t know how I missed that, apologies! I had it set to “estate” on AutoTrader, so I didn’t check. Mind you though, the hatch is no cheaper so the comparison still stands. @travs I bought a vRS hatch after finding out it really was a hatch! The only reason I can see for getting the estate is adults in the back (barely any difference IIRC) and roof rails. I’m a mountain biker so sometimes regret not getting a car with rails, but aside from that the hatch is as practical as the estate.

SatNavWorld are offering OEM SKODA SD Card 2025 for MIB2 Amundsen SatNav 5LO 051 236 DS at £48.99 with free shipping (Dealer £150.99). Comprehensive UK and all Europe coverage. I bought from them in September last year, just before deciding to sell my Yeti. Next day delivery, worked straight out of the (little) box. (Just too lazy to do the usual back-up, download, format, unzip, copy etc)

For someone (you) that joined the forum when I (Occy) was six years old, I (Occy) rather hoped for something more constructive (from you). I apologise - I see your location now. I should have been less eloquent and more straightforward in my humour.

Yea I thought it should have lasted longer to be honest but never had a stop start before so just put it down to the extra wear of that to be honest Its the topdon artidiag600s with free updates to be honest I haven't long had it so only plugged it in to check faults really it has showed the faults each time and cleared them when pressed to clear but other than that I haven't done anymore with it I just got it to use on other vehicles really as I have vcds for my skodas

Some Skoda approved used car warranty is 2 years when bought with finance. That was not relevant. It was the correct service schedule I was giving 3 years / 30,000 miles. Unlike Volvo for Haldex and 2 years / 20,000 miles. Also that a Full Main Dealer Service history does not mean serviced to recommendations, guidelines or schedule. T&C in warranty says Recommendation.

Parts can fail at any time an any mileage, TBH what you have described does not sound like the typical VAG rear diff failure whatsoever, it sounds exactly like a garage that cannot diagnose, keeps fitting more and more expensive parts and finally gives a really high quote hoping you will go elsewhere. For the second point no, if there were no apparent faults then they cannot be expected to identify future ones. You certainly have leverage on the final point, I hope you have not settled the bills yet. Did they by any chance service the Haldex before the problem started?

I used to do this for years, but now as a Vicar and not having the time to do the work, I farm it out to someone who has the tools and time. I have a Triumph Speed Triple as a backup vehicle, so am able to get about while the car is being sorted.

They did those because they needed to but really an efficient TDI was the answer. There is a place near me with 6 sitting outside looking very sorry for themself. Look ideal for a conversion to an EV. It is very rare i see ones on the road.

Memories. Sometimes a lovely story but missing the passage of time. The year 2000 was 25 years ago and 1975 50 years ago. There were new cars on sh!te tyres right through the past 5 decades and Michelin manufactured plenty in France or Dundee. Bridgestone horror shows have been getting fitted to small or large 4,X4,s for decades and still are.

Remembered I got this from Breezy_pete. It shows what I mean re grooved bolt. I couldnt work it out until I saw the pic. Was looking at the head not the surface.

Next up now, is to start doing this youself, and use saved money to buy yourself some more tools 😆 All my saved money is spent on new tools and gadgets to fix my own car more efficiently and that equals more savings. And behold, more tools 🤣🤣 But yeah, I do also car works for other people in home garage/workshop I must admit. Its a hobby and it is a great way to learn even more.

hi friend you have enabled via obd eleven 1.AM radio disable? (enable) 2.30 colors of ambient lights 3.comfort seats? 4. the menu of locking? (door locking while engine is running) check these out and reload 330 Firmware.then reinstall the patch and make sure the vcrn code is correct

Next time you are walking past a row of cars take a look at what's fitted. New cars have the factory Michelin or Continental. Older cars have mismatched no-name tyres with old scuffed sidewalls and mostly low on air. These are the tyres that will be hitting the motorway, loaded with family in the summer. Definitely it was hard to buy a poor tyre in the 90's and early 2000's. It was either a decent make or you had remoulds like Goldline which were terrible to drive on. Now most cars are fitted with the absolute cheapest tyres and on top of that they are not maintained.

Hard to say, wheel bearings are funny old things that can make all manner of noises. A drumming noise that changes with road speed is a fair indication, jack the front end up and give the front wheels a spin, see if one feels rougher than the other. Go in prepared for a fight with tight fastenings. It's going to happen. If you haven't got an impact wrench and can't borrow one, it's well worth looking at hiring one for the weekend, or the less scrupulous amongst us might be tempted to buy one, use it and take it back.

If it's not a mistake you have got to wonder what is up with someone that thought those tyres were suitable for sale, even for off-toad mud-plugging sports use.

I did a run to Gloucester again this morning and I had no warnings appear... The screwdriver scraping might have done the job.

Okay looks like LED lights i installed in the boot two weeks back is causing issue. Strangely It was all okay for 2 weeks. I reverted to OEM lights now. Thanks everyone for helping me narrow down the issue.

Have you by any chance changed the boot lights from normal bulbs to LED and left an interior light switched on? This situation causes my car to repeatedly switch off then wake up again. It's fine with all interior lights switched off.

Every two years. So biennial it turns out. Thanks for educating me.

That might be for the whole bit....worth having a look on Kopacek to see if they sell the badge seperately (the kind of thing they would have)

It's very good, compatible with both Intelligent Octopus Go and OVO charge anytime. My neighbour has it, very compact and easy to hide behind a potted plant. Only possible negative is that it doesn't use WIFI, it has built-in SIM that may need small monthly payment after some years.

Excellent, £1k saved there. What charge point do they install? Can you say "scummy price tactics"? electrive.comVauxhall cuts EV prices in UK in response to tax changes...Vauxhall has announced that all of its electric cars are now priced under £40,000, following the introduction of the UK government's changes to the ExpensiveThis isn't the first time, when government cut EV grant way back around 2017, EV RRP prices magically dropped by same amount. As I keep saying, we don't need more government grants for vehicle themselves. Car manufacturer crying for government grants are only self serving so they can have higher asking price at expense of tax payer.

I did do this myself at one point (point 6 at the top) and mentioned it at the most recent garage, but they didn't seem to think it was relevant. I could try it again. I neglected to reply to your question about lane assist, which my car doesn't have.

Found it! Go to car and on the page where you can spin the car round, spin it so it shows the side. Press “opening and closing” and a menu opens up with all the settings for locking and unlocking. All working now!

+1 Check battery If still not working may be the connector/cable

A follow up to this post. A few quid on eBay prise tools and on the first nice day I had some free time, happy to report a quick success. The interior panel around the rear seatbelt came away without damage, four (or five?) screws out of the side panel gave me access to the cables and sure enough there's the culprit. A loose cable with a white plug on the end. I'm guessing it was missed in the factory, either that or someone's been in here previously and failed to put it back correctly. Anyway, plugged in, powers on and back together in about 25 min. Thanks again for the suggestions especially to SimonB68. 👍🏻

Definitely looks better and matches the black badges at the rear. Should have been standard on Sportline.

There was 14.5V at the alternator output using the alternator body as the earth. There was still 14.5V at the +ve terminal on the battery, using the alt. as earth, but when I moved the earth lead to the -ve post, it was down to 12V. In the end, I found that the earth lead from the engine to the body was high resistance on the engine connection! I cleaned it up and now have 14v+ across the battery. I have learned rather late that a charging fault is not always the alternator or the battery! Thanks for your help. I now have a spare good alternator.

If they're 185/60/14's, the price difference between a budget and a brand name tyre is that little that there's no point putting cheap ones on. We put a set of Toyos on dad's because they were that cheap, there was no reason not to.

Those looking good but they are coaxial as i know the original one is component. Isn't that way can make things to sound worst? Where is the handle to open the car there is tweeter, on the bottom corner the one which is broke is count as midbass?