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If you're not sure of something, then it's not a silly question.

Anything can develop issues from wading through water, especially if hot prior to doing so. Brakes, Catalytic converter, then alternator, wiring loom, connectors. But as far as a gearbox or a DSG it is not much different from driving very wet roads and getting soaked over many miles. People think they could take a Land Rover or other offroad vehicles and wade deep water if a snorkel fitted to stop the water going through the air intake / air filter. Actually they needed Wading Plugs put in the Gearbox, Axle breathers fitted because putting these under water was a pretty good way of it getting drawn into them.

I had the same. The damper arm was just rattling around inside the bottom of the glovebox. I'm guessing whoever changed the pollen filter last time, couldn't be bothered to refit it. I had mine out yesterday and followed someone else's advice about using some gaffer tape to stop the damper arm from escaping when refitting. 👍

Interesting when they come to check your Karoq (or any other Skoda model) and question why you have VW and Audi parts fitted 🤣

The price of the Electronic alignement Tool kit for doing the Setting up has come done and not the £3,000 or so that they were 2 years ago. Then the Kit for the car can be purchased cheaper now. The time taken might be down by a couple of hours with more experience of doing them. But £450 sounds like a quote for a totally different engine.

Back on 4 wheels, New lift in, godsend. Mx5 took up more time and money than id thought but its in decent shape, justy is broken again but thats nothing new, so got more time to get on this. Subframe back on, driveshafts back on etc. Radpack built up with new rad. Snazzy stud and nut kit installed, and back on 4 wheels. Repaired some more wiring, again. And had it running, not for long but still. Bit long to crank, so further fettling needed. 20250608_212402.mp4 Also fitted an oil pressure sender, a spare from both mx5 and justy parts. Ran it to a gauge in the engine bay testing it out. Oil pressure is strong so good signs there. Will be routed to the 3 gauge thing in the din. Dont know if i mentioned but ive a serviceable set of underbody "cladding" and exhaust tunnel heatshielding from another parts car which will go on in time.

@pinkpanther i believe that canadas wildfires are the cause of the orange moon and skies in some places ,i read summat earlier today .

Hello I have a Amunsen MIB2 with MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0359T SW0359 HW28 PART NUMBER 5Q0 035 874B I have been looking very where to find an update as i believe there is SW 0363 H31 that will work on my system. I have also read that SW 0456 HW41 also works but i am not 100%. is there anyone that has either of these software or hardware they are will to share or has anymore information that could help me please would be much appreciated. I have seen @SashaGrace @pab567 seem to know a lot about this topic. Hope you don't mind me tagging you both. Thank you

Hi everyone, just bought my second Octavia. This time it's a Hybrid vRS and quite a fun car indeed! We also own a vRS Kodiaq so keeping up a trend here! Currently fighting on a daily basis over driving it!!

Hello all, While I am new to this forum I am not new to Skoda ownership. I have owned a number of Favorits, Felicias and Fabias. My latest is a 2013 Fabia Scout estate with the 1.6 Diesel. I was a driving instructor for around 25 years and used both Felicias and Fabias for most of those years. I hope to be able to both learn from this site and contribute to it.

Good for him. I hope it brings you both a lot of great memories 👍

@Lee01 thanks mate. it's my son's first car. He wanted it. He will pay for the repairs and upkeep although I will do most of the work. But that's what dad's are for I guess lol. I think the main reason we did get it was insurance. To add him as a provisional on either one of my cars was well over an additional 2 grand each car. The fabia I can get it insured in his name, fully comprehensive, £90 excess with both my wife and and I as named drivers for £256. Which I still can't believe. He has gone on about having a fabia for years even his pc racing game he is using a fabia 😂 Ultimately that is what he wants so it's his choice. Like it or lump it.

Welcome to the forum @firejinx 👍 The MkI Fabia section has a wealth of knowledge though isn't as busy these days but there's some great helpful people should you have any questions. I had a couple of MkIs myself and tbh, I still regret getting rid of both of them.

Things that always put me off... No service history. No plate visible. Short MOTs. To be honest once you discount these three red flags, anything left is probably ok.

So i got my answer from the vw forum. It turned out to be the led lights in the trunk. It seems, i quote the forum "swapping the bulb out for an LED changes the resistance of the bulb which changes the voltage on the monitoring connection - and so it makes sense that the change results in "boot lid open"." I switched back and forward between the led and normal bulb and the notification would only appear with the ked Bulbs.... So problem solved

All done for info 200 quid for both sides

Its surprising what you can find out using DVLA MOT history check. When we looked for a fabia for our son we found loads in so called good condition and supposedly well maintained. MOT check proved otherwise with underbody rust, weakened rusty sub frames, bald tyres with canvas showing and brake pipes etc covered in underseal which I assume is to hide corosion to name but a few. Avoid any that don't show number plate in advert if buying privately. Theres a reason they don't want you to check up on the car. As your in kent look for local registrations as they will be cleaner due to less salt on roads in winter. Up here in Inverness the winters are death to cars. Sons fabia originally came from I think cornwall and for an 06 plate is pretty spotless underneath where as my 08 plate Octavia is now past MOT due to severe body and subframe rust. Keeping it as a donor car for spares. As long as they have an excellent regular service history mehanicaly should be ok Alasdair

I suppose it's hard to answer without knowing what "reasonable mileage" means to you. Is it 100,000 miles or fewer? 150,000? These cars, at their age, will all likely have what a lot of people would consider 'high' mileage but that doesn't really mean much if you get one with a full (and I mean "lots of services" not "lots of paper") service history and proper maintenance etc. Mine is on 253,000 miles and has just been voted Car of the Year 2025 at the South Wales Car Awards. Admittedly the awards only exist in my house, so there's only one nominee, but it's still deserved I'd say.

Seemed a good choice to do 4 year PCP. No worries about battery, brake fluid etc just hand it back after 3 £99 services. Two tyres which we about £70, front of course which get a bit chewed with the torque and weight. Well less than £300 a month, partly due to subsidies and cheap finance available. Renault 5 40 kwh still the likely replacement bur will evaluate. Maybe lwr them sweat and ve without second car for a few weeks and see what quarter four finance deals and available. With interest rates falling EU and UK plus Renault needing to hit their 2025 EV target of 28% there should be some great deals around.

@New11 Not a case of telling them, you need to get booked in for a diagnosis then from that outcome, is a warranty issue then the approval for the repair.

Not sure what is the best procedure, but if you have the all-in service, definitely good idea to ask them about the code, how this can be diagnosed by Skoda and repaired... Even if they go and say "yes, no problem, we'll replace the part" , you might need to wait few weeks for the part itself, or availability or free slot in their garage...

Thank you kindly. Regarding re-charging the battery, I have started doing this since winter, after the car was unused for some time and I tried to start it (without thinking!), I've got lots of random errors, and even message on the dash "please start the engine manually" (eeeehh?). I have charged the battery, took a car for a drive, and all was fine. But then noticed that every now and then the car starting was a bit more difficult, so when I wasn't using the car for 2-3 weeks, I would charge the battery every now and then. This week was the first time when the car wouldn't start despite being on a fairly long drive. It's a 2018 model, assume the battery is original, so not surprised it is failing...

Mine was looked at under approved used warranty and is also 69 plate. I will keep this updated

Got a rail down both sides on my 2025 SEL, standard seats with 2 hooks on the left rail.

Engine sounds well 👍 Gaz

i had/have this issue with mine also

So data protection is one of my hats as well. the rules around CCTV are actually quite complex and you have to take into account case law and published government guidance as well, just reading the letter of the law is not the whole story. But...long story short. Just like the majority of the law don't take the p!ss and you'll be fine. Longer story... You are perfectly entitled to use CCTV on your premises but you should avoid that CCTV recording video across other peoples properties. Most CCTV systems include software to block out portions of your video feed to avoid that where physical positioning cannot complete the job properly. I do this on my own system. I've told the neightbours and offered to show them that I'm not recording their houses but tbh they don't care. Recording the street is generally considered to be ok, you actually do not have a right to not be recorded in the street but you do have the right to not have your image used for profit or business without consent. Street scenes are generally not considered to be recording individuals unless an individual is the subject of the video. Where that can get more complex is in a less busy street whre there may be a series of identifiable individuals walking past. Should you have a sign up that asys you are recording, technically yes. Although you are unlikely to be prosecuted in any way for not displaying a sign for a domestic system. A sigh is good thing for preventing crime anyway, tbh I recommend a sign even if you have no cctv. I'm considering a fake cameras in a few locations in addition to the real ones. So.. where you do record identifiable individuals (i.e. Ring doorbell) you technically become a Data Controller under UK-GDPR by doing that and you are required under law to process that data in a lawful manner. You could find youself subject to a legal demand for the CCTV footage you hold. Similarly should you think it funny to publish something on YouTube from your camera system you may be subject to legal action if you do this without consent. The police may also request then demand footage from your camera system for the purpose of investigation. Should your video feed been thought to be inappropriate i.e. you failed to stop your cameras recording the teenage daughters bedroom next door either by positioning the camera or by failing to use software option you may be subject to other legal action such as you being a stautory nusance or other anti-stalking legislation. Are you likely to have problems with your CCTV? If you don't take the p!55, no you are very unlikely to have an issue. But be aware that otehr people may have right to the data you are recording and a failure on your part to respond properly might cause you issues.

I keep receipts and have a spreadsheet detailing what I've done, when, at what mileage (usually) and how much it cost.

Hi all, I'm running a 2015 Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0 TDI (184hp model) that has Revo Panel airfilter and air scoop, Darkside Developments Downpipe and been remapped to approx. 227hp / 480Nm. Under full-throttle acceleration in 4th to 6th gear, particularly above 190 km/h, I sometimes get an intermittent P0234 – Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition). I’ve logged the car using VCDS during high-speed pulls. Boost specified and actual track very closely (targeting ~2849 hPa at peak), with no spikes beyond requested. However, I noticed charge air temperatures (IAT post-turbo) climbing from ~96°C up to 148°C during sustained WOT — which I suspect is triggering a protective overboost flag due to thermal stress, not actual overboost. MAF values are healthy, and the VNT actuator is responding properly. This only occurs at high speeds under sustained load. Has anyone experienced similar behavior with high IATs triggering overboost codes on a remapped TDI? Would a better Charge Cooler pipe resolve this? or should I look into ECU compensation maps? Here is some logs i did in VCDS and also asked Ai to do a little graph. Appreciate any insights. LOG-01-IDE00021_&11.CSV.xlsx

PM

I went to change the pollen filter on mine, and i discovered the damper was removed already, so i didnt have to worry about it, 2 minute job. Not really bothered about the damper so will just leave as is.

yes saw this, mentioned it above. Wonder if anyone else has seen it on their new Kodiaq

Well, medley, I can only agree with you.

I actually did the gearbox oil change alone and it was pretty easy, i just used the filter as a filling hole instead of getting the tools for the filling. It took a while to finish but it was worth it

Ok, I’ve used google to search the forum more comprehensively (yes, I’m incompetent) and compiled the list of parts. I’ve also confirmed Cars Equipment were happy to post the module overseas for me. I will update this thread again after install. Parts required: Wheel: 5E3419093AM VKJ (other parts also apply for the wheel) Airbag: 5E3880201D IZY (wheel dependent, yet to confirm this via test) Clockspring: 5Q0953569C (based on search, tbc at fitting) Kufatec Heated steering wheel retrofit loom: 43696-1 (for cars without heated steering wheel) LIN bus adapter options: https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/radio-adapter-can-bus-decoder-22/canbus-adapter-reduction-for-steering-wheel-2/ https://skoda-acc.com/Skoda-steering-wheel-buttons-adapter-Full-S0001F https://battle-giver-65e.notion.site/Steering-wheel-module-18eb3eb13c27800e91d8f7cf3f5b1e67

We spotted a colourful Moon on the way home from feeding the birds this evening...

Number 1 - 2017 - Grey SEL 2.0 Diesel Number 2 - 2020 - Red SEL 2.0 Diesel Number 3 - 2023 - Blue SEL 2.0 Petrol I love ‘em

For similar reason I keep a full paper service history and place it in the car when I sell it or trade it in.

Good morning. I just drove 70 km here in the morning, more than 50 km being in highway, and I went up to 130's. Nothing :-)) So, this was a one time burning off the clogs/residues. I am relieved. Have a wonderful weekend. God bless you @Skodaudi

That is what will change.

Agreed the for the EV's this will be a certainty. However, we were discussing it for ICE. So it will be adopted for EV's and then the new Hydrogen vehicles (this is where the ongoing R&D is) Depending on how long this takes to come in, it remains to be seen if it is applied retrospectively to older ICE. It will probably not be cost-effective for a dwindling market of a multitude of very different systems that may or may not be workable for this. The thing is we talk about it for 5 or so years whilst the car companies and Tier 1's look at the feasibility. Then 5 years to design it in, so you are looking like a decade minimum. Once the automotive companies have a solution, then the government does the law (as written for them by the industry and the Civil Service) and it comes in, usually with a couple of years public warning. BTW last time I asked, fully autonomous cars on UK roads were still a few decades off, but that was from the Head of Functional Safety from a well known UK/EU brand in a 1 to 1 chat over coffee. Marketing and corporate may say otherwise... BTW, I know about automotive software, firmware and electronics. I know F all about mechanics and changing a wheel or fitting petrol is my limit :-)

Nobody said insurance wasnt going to be an issue just mot ,anyone with half a brain knows insurance will be more difficult ,but its all doable it just costs alot more money and finding the right one ,plenty of highly modded cars on road and fully legal.

If you have the original documentation than you may find you have the Certificate of Conformity. (CE Mark cert). The year and month of manufacture are also stated on this.

Just to point out that as far as I know, SE L has always needed the cost upgrade for dynamic front indicators. It has been the Monte Carlo trim that got them as standard.

The 10th letter of the VIN gives the Model Year - L for 2020, M for 2021.

Hi sorry I haven't replied, so with a lot of searching I found it in privacy settings and services see below. Touch wood not had anything since Thanks again

Had to get another sump as the one I got was wrong, Rear main seal and oil pickup is done and dusted. Pulled clutch and flywheel off to said seal, Since I loathe removing gearboxes, and have had to do it twice now I've opted to replace it. Was an oe clutch and DMF on it, the hot spots on the plate and flywheel sealed the deal for me, clutch wasn't gone gone but I'm not doing it again. Dmf was fine itself just the hotspots on it and I know you're not meant to reuse them as such. Did have the option of going single mass. Get trade rates thankfully. So only meant it was 20 euro in the difference between a single mass sachs setup and dual mass Luk. I like sachs stuff as it is oe, but LUK is decent enough and keeps the dual mass. Didn't want to deal with the chatter you get with a single mass either. Another car got but won't really effect this, it's not something that's going to consume a lot of money.

Never ending pain. Timing belt and water pump done. Little drama here, water pump was poor so well I changed it, no clue when it was last changed so atleast I'll be starting from "now". Building all back up. I even took some time to paint up the tinware, it won't last but I tried. So last thing to do, just about was the oil pickup tube. Pulled out the lower gearbox bolts, soaked in oil, odd. Cracked the sump taking it off, typical. Also damaged the rear main seal, if it wasn't leaking before it is now, so needs replaced, which means box off... Again... On the bright side, This engine looks spotless, I'm about 80% sure it's either been refreshed or it's a much lower mileage unit than the vrs was (given the rust on the outside, I'm leaning towards being the original vrs lump was stripped and rebuilt at some point.). Especially how clean the head looked, this is quite the fresh engine atleast. Have a new pickup tube here, though it's not blocked, there is scuzz stuck into the corner so ultimately glad I'm replacing it. Considering I bought this with a blown turbo, it's well I had a look. Been amassing parts to do the rear main seal, and fix what I've broke. -New gearbox bolts from darkside. -New sump -RMS on the way -Rear main seal tool -Solid shifter bracket bushes -New metal coolant pipe on route (not related) -Magnetic sump bung (see blown turbo) Put one of those in the monte on its most recent service (November?) anyway, it's soon due for another so we'll see how much **** it's picked up. Clutch alignment tool I've to get, atleast I'll have it. All things considered, parts are silly cheap so I'm not too worried. And atleast I'm not paying for my own labor.

hello, can you help me? I put the VRS image (coding cluster) but doesn't appear the numbers... please, help me

From the reviews it seems to be quite good for the money, however lacks DSP. In theory that is not an issues, as you have sort-of DSP in the infotaiment. I went with Axton with DSP, which was slightly more expensive than Focal. It sounds really, really good, however it might be developing some issue. Since some time it's giving high pitch noise on morning start-up, which is coming from the amp itself, not the speakers. So am not really sure if i should recommend it or not