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Turns out the alternator voltage regulator was faulty. Taking a graph of the voltage showed brief periods of low voltage under 12,5V that i didn't pick up with just a real time readout. A new 20€ regulator and a few curse words later it seems to be fixed. The car may see half a million kilometers after all...

Morning All, 2025 March registered Kodiaq Sportline PHEV 5 Seat. Just back from a family vacation where I put the Kodiaq PHEV to the test. 2nd July Trip from Glasgow to Newhaven Port England. 2 adults and 3 kids (12, 6 and 3 year old) Roof box filled with clothes at shoes (480l) and the boot filled with all we need for 3 weeks at 2x Eurocamp sites. (4 litre airfryer included for my kids who only eat yellow food) 1/2 tank of fuel + 2x stops to 50kW DC charge. (1st stop Tebay farm shop, 2nd stop M40 South Services) Got to Newhaven and topped up the tank at the local Sainsburys, no local DC fast charges, seems like a loss of revenue for them. Overnight ferry to Dieppe, drove to nearest Total Energies station and fast charged, then on to Eurocamp, east of Paris (Le Chene Gris). Drove in and out of Paris 3 times (Disney). Filled tank before leaving the next day, no local fast charger. Left Paris and headed towards the Vendee for our site at Chateau La Foret, stopped once to fast charge. Only drove small amount at the 2nd site to the local Super U. Filled car and fast charged for journey home. Filled once more in South England and charged twice more on route back to glasgow. Total Distance. 1932 miles Avg Fuel Consumption. 53.7 mpg Avg Energy Consumption. 13.1 m/kWh Space. Comfortable for 5 with all the kids needs in the back seats while still giving us adults plenty of space upfront, I didn't change my driving position, wife stretch out with chair slightly reclined. 5/5 Stars. Purchased the sport seat media holders, expensive for what they are but thankful i bought them, well used. For my last two holidays we have used a VW T6 SWB Transporter Kombi, I was a little worried about fitting it all in the Kodiaq, we did cut back on extras, however not by much and with the added roof box we had no issues. Instead of suitcases we used clear packing cudes, 6 fitted in the box (5 clothes, 1 linnen with towels and trainers in the gaps). We used 2 plastic boxes, 1 for food the other for cleaning products, my wee boy took his balance bike (front wheel removed) and my middle took her foldable skooter, everything was packed around these (including the airfryer) As much as I love french wine, i also love bourbon, so packed 2x 2ltr bottles of Jim Bean and in the "lower boot" under the flap I filled this with pepsi max (48 cans), wife loves gin so remainder space was filled with tonic, kids colouring books and the required 5x hi-vis vests. We also managed on the route home to bring back 57 bottles of wine. All packed so i could still see out of the rear of the car. This is a company car, I chose this (and the tax burden) over another kombi as I missed driving cars. I've got it for 2 years handing it back March 2027 before the tax burden near doubles for PHEV's on my P11D. This car never missed a beat, 1.5l engine is ore than capable, keep it hybrid and charged and it'll run supper efficient, yes it's noisey when pushed hard, but why push it hard, it isn't a SQ5. ACC all the way to France and back, no issues. Used inbuit sat nav over google maps. Happy to answer any questions people may have as I've probably missed something important. Also French charge 0.59 euro per kWh, the English charge 0.89 pounds per kWh. 50kW charge to around 80% then drops down to around 10kW for final 20%. average charge time 45min to full. Salut, David.

A 235 tyre is generally not paired with a 7J wheel. A 7" rim will do from 195 to 225, with the ideal widths being 205 and 215. To run a 235 tyre, you need a minimum of a 7.5J, with 8/8.5J being better suited. Yes, but I'm not sure what the score is with this... A quick search showed most of the 235s on 7J rims were Transporters, so maybe there is a difference there? Either way, VW normally do the lower end of tyre sizes (E.G. a 7.5J with 225).

Thin coated gardening wire or strimmer cable. It does block up from time to time.

I agree with earlier postings that probably the biggest threat to Skoda is the Skoda Auto itself. The doctrine of mandated removal of manual gearboxes from all lineups is now bearing fruit given the numerous premature failures of DSG boxes and the need for much more frequent maintenance/fluid and filter change for DSGs than for manual gearboxes. Same goes for 4x4 Haldex that I have never needed in nearly half a million miles of driving... In addition, cutting fuel tanks everywhere except top of the range (Superb) resulted in a situation where e.g. I can afford any Skoda in any trim in the range, but won't buy it chiefly because the Mk4 Superb only comes with DSG box and is too too long to fit in garages at at least 2 locations I frequently use. At this point, the ill fitting (Kodiak) instrument panel in Mk4 Superb dashboard eclipsed only by its software gremlins probably are worth mentioning. The rest of the Skoda lineup has either way too small fuel tank or a DSG box. Another off-putting feature for me is that the headlamps suitable to drive in the UK and abroad for long periods of time at night seem to be now a £1500+ add-on, when just a few years ago they were a standard feature of most models in the range (halogen and HID projector headlamps with a lever inside). And to make things worse, on e.g. Karoq you have to make a "logical" choice between either having matrix headlamps (Sportline only), or having Varioflex seats, but not both. That's on nearly new ex demo cars, because Skoda killed manual gearbox on new Karoqs... At the end of the day, we probably could live with a well-made and quiet Fabia sized car nowadays, provided it had ~130bhp diesel, manual gearbox, 50l+ fuel tank and headlamps that go to true flat beam for Europe, no need even for matrix high beam. Mk1 /Mk2 Octavia and a Yeti fitted the bill perfectly, so did Fabia vRS except 45l fuel tank. Even the 105bhp Roomster, although underpowered, had Varioflex seats and continues to astonish with its practicality (and a 64l fuel tank for diesel cars, after ventectomy). Right now, I see nothing in the Skoda range that can replace my 2 ageing cars. The numerous electric trolleys introduced into the Skoda range are a complete non starter for me, given that last year, e.g. on my vRS, I did 80% of annual mileage in 10x overnight ~1000mile trips. Petrol/hybrids are also a non starter for me, given petrol/diesel price differential in Europe (probably £8k+ in additional petrol over diesel fuel costs over lifetime of the car) and the inevitable loss of range on autobahn with the thimble fuel tanks present on current Skoda models (except the Superb).

I've got a downpipe itch. Had the itch for a while now, but tis high time I take action. It's the last of my "improved efficiency" journey, removing the factory downpipe restriction. Problem is APR don't do Stg 2, hence I can't get a downpipe unless I change tuners. Given I already have APR TCU, IE Intercooler and Racingline intake, I'm currently researching the following potential options:- Get IE downpipe and switch to IE Stg 2 ECU Get IE downpipe and switch to Galano ECU tune Talking to my Euro specialist, about pricing & options. Should complement nicely my existing RPM Performance Resonator Delete pipe. Will see....

Just recently took delivery of our 2.0 TSI Kodiaq. It may be early to say but so far it's been averaging about 35 mpg. Mixed use, local driving, B-roads and some motorway. I find it positive as I expected worse. Of course, a very heavy foot or constant city traffic would make for lower mpg. The powertrain is very smooth and relaxing to drive. This is exactly why I picked this engine. I'm in mainland Europe and diesels are heavily taxed these days. We only drive locally combined with 3-4 longer (500 miles or more) family holidays a year. Didn't do any towing, but assuming it will cope fine with it if you take the lower mpg as a tradeoff. Like you said, heavy foot with a TDI will do even worse with a TSI.

The brake lights and the side lights are the same bulb on later models. The intensity is changed electronically using pulse width modulation. I suggest you check for fault codes. It may also be that the car has shut off the car brake lights for protection against a fault in the unit that creates the brake light supply to your trailer brake lights. Take look in the boot on the left-hand side for water ingress and corrosion of the connections made to the earth stud. Also look at the wiring to the trailer socket for shorts.

I have sent you a message with my email address as I know that you said you couldn't send any yet due to not having enough posts, but you should be able to receive messages, have a look.

Hi , my typing could be better Thank you for your reply

You have to patch swdownload. After patching it still may require to modify metainfo2.txt file.

Hi I'm hoping that diagnostic will tell me where is this issue or at least narrow it to something like connector, wire,sensor any thing that can be checked Will update you when problem will be sorted

235/60R17 7Jx17 ET40 wheels will fit the Kodiaq MK1. The Kodiaq MK1 uses 235/55R18 and 235/50R19 on 7J rims. As you can see in the ETRTO chart below, the standard rim width for a 235/60R17 tyre is 7.0"...hence it's highlighted in bold. ETRTO approved rim widths for passenger car tyres 235/60R17 6.5-7.0-8.5 235/55R18 6.5-7.5-8.5 235/50R19 6.5-7.5-8.5 235/45R20 7.5-8.0-9.0

More here https://www.skoda-media.de/press/detail/4481/

I had these faults when I picked the car up a year ago. I returned it, picked up a hire car which Skoda paid for. Took 5 months for Skoda to rewrite the software. Check you have the updated software, it is to do with the camera. My problem now is the interior light has a mind of it's own coming and off when it wants. No solution yet.

Are the 235's OK on the 7J x 17 rims though? I think 7.5 is fine but not 7. @Carlston will know the score.

215*0.65 = 139.75 235* 0.6 = 141. Ok, the rolling radius is fine. 7*25.4 = 177.8 177.8/215 = 0.82 177.8/235 = 0.75 Well, the aspect width looks ok to me too.

As far as I can remember from other threads, the part number corresponds to the initial firmware of the unit. Sometimes it gets changed up with updates. And just to mention it briefly, it seems that 19855 is no longer the latest MIB3 firmware. I’ve read in Capra forums about OTAs to 1988.

Imagine having a miinor bump and the other driver saying "Not much damage, just a cracked headlight. 50 Quid should sort it ...." 😲

I suppose he finally managed to convert his SuperB in a spaceship and is currently out of range of the low orbit internet ... 🙂

Thank you for help Going for diagnostic shortly then I will know what is wrong Talk to the mechanic about that issue. He quickly stated that issue can be battery As I chang orginal on to new one in January (not enough power on new one ) I will update post when issue will be resolved

Although (as OccyVRS highlighted above) LED headlamps can be expected to have a long lifespan, they are not guaranteed to be immortal nor to be immune to accidental damage. On a just-in-case basis, it might be educational to ask your Skoda dealership what the cost of a replacement headlamp currently is for your car. (An online advert for a single LED matrix headlamp for a Skoda Octavia Mk 4 quotes a price of 1191€)

Those 5 ADAS issues you list I also had when my cruise control failed. The dealer replaced the cruise control stalk and updated the software in June this year and all problems fixed. In addition I have the map view in front of driver which had been promised since I bought the car, December 2024, and an extra icon on the main screen to view the energy flow. Hope tou get as lucky as I have been.

No new cars that I can see in any make/model (at least except large SUVs / pickup trucks). In used/ex demo ones probably yes, as I have named Karoq Sportline 2.0TDI 150bhp manual (but then no Varioflex which is immensely useful), or if I decide to live with a durable auto box, an Audi S4 Avant 3.0TDI tiptronic (though for a thirsty engine fuel tank borderline at 58l). Did not look at other makes (used) too closely (yet) as I have always maintained my own cars, so switching away from VAG cars would require new tools / OBD interface / manuals etc.

@SteveTheElder There's someone on eBay who offers a VIN decoding service. Costs around £2.60. You send him your VIN and he'll send you back a PDF containing everything about your car.... including the build date, and all the options present on the car. It had been posted on this forum a while ago.I did it just because I was interested to know more details on my car. Link to eBay

Production date 16 Sep 2020 Online manual instructions/conditions to enable OTA set : No OTA shown as available for my VIN in my country : No Hardware Version: H56 Device part number: 5E3035816J Current Infotainment version: 1941 OTA Updates currently being received for: Infotainment: No Maps: Yes Apps: Yes So.... H and J are non-OTA. ISTR that the device part number was not what it said (a part number) but was a combination of software and hardware. I could be wrong. My car has gone C -G - J and 1664 - 1668 - 1806 - 1896 - 1941. With a replacement steering wheel after the dealer tried say it wasn't that. Exactly as much fun as it sounds.

See below... @SiWaiting I have Columbus Agree. For my car... Online manual instructions/conditions to enable OTA set : Yes OTA shown as available for my VIN in my country : Yes (screenshot below) - the only difference that I can see from @JamesK car Hardware Version: H56 Device part number: 5E3035816H Current Infotainment version: 1941 OTA Updates currently being received for: Infotainment: No Maps: Yes Apps: Yes

Got the same low oil pressure issue with my Seat Leon 1p1 CBZB engine and found this lovely forum while google-digging. Sharing some details: 03C 115 561 H - VW part number for oil filter MANN-FILTER W 712/94 - Original OEM manufacturer filter https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue/search-results/product.html/w712/94_mann-filter.html Bosch part: Part number: F 026 407 183 Trade number: P7183 https://www.boschaftermarket.com/gb/en/parts/-/Details_of_Oil_filter_spin-on_box_for_vehicle_Seat_Leon_1.2_TSI_2010_-_2012_77kW_CBZB/pi/categories/Filters/products/F026407183/vi/vehicle/ARNoLpf/ If you open oil filter details in Bosch catalog by the link below, then click on filter image - image gallery will appear and surprisingly it contains both old (silver) and new (black) filters: It seems the old one Bosh filter is MANN-FILTER W 712/94 while new one (per shape, construction and printing style) seems a PURFLUX LS391A https://www.purfluxgroupcatalog.com/catalogues/FO/scripts/cat_fich_filtre.php?zone=FR&catalogue=PFX&lang=GB&ref_filtre=LS391A Difference is that MANN filter has more soft, more thick and removable rubber valve at the top of plastic part, while PURFLUX has more rigid and thin layer of rubber hardly mounted (glued?) on plastic part. Also metal spring under the plastic in MANN filter is 2 times bigger and more strong. Seems the root cause of low oil pressure is: Rubber valve construction & because of that valve difference using recommended by PURFLUX fitting procedure (ie tight till rubber sealing touches the gasket and then additionally rotate to 270 degrees) results that thick and rigid valve rubber just got damaged by the edge of oil channel. Workaround (if you unfortunately got Purflux-style filter): Just remove plastic valve, spring (under the valve) and rubber sealing ring from your new PURFLUX-style filter and replace them by the parts from your old MANN-style filter - the mount is the same and parts appears to be compatible. Also I would recommend to put an oil on valve rubber as well as on sealing prior to fitting a filter so that it will better slide on oil channel edge during the final tightening. Works good for me (but next time I'll order MANN's one ;) ). PS: apologies for my non-native English.

Thanks! It's been a while since I fitted those chrome covers. I think the accelerator one was the wrong shape, and wouldn't fit over the existing pedal. I keep meaning to do something about it but it gets pushed far back up the priority list 😂

There's only a couple of percent difference between the circumference of the specified tyres on 17, 18 & 19" rims. My understanding of the TPMS is that when you set it, that's the RPM it uses to measure deviance from. It's possible to lose a little pressure, reset the TPMS & it will happily carry on using the new value as the default. So I suspect you could in theory have slightly different circumferences on all four wheels & it wouldn't care. Although I wouldn't be happy with running mismatched sizes, simply because your insurance company could regard the wrong tyres as an undeclared modification in the event of a claim. So what sizes have you ended up with?

Suspension ordered and arrived waiting to be booked in. Went with Bilstein B16 Damptronic adjustable coilovers as it was cheaper than what I could find getting a set of B6s and Eibach springs. They lower 30mm-50mm (current arch gap looks to be c.60mm so halving that will be more than enough) so got to research top mounts (might as well replace them) but I think @MartiniB has some comprehensive ideas around that. Superb bearings and Arteon Top Mounts look to be the ones...

Thanks. Annoying that it is the full delivery pipe at £150ish. For now to get it back on the road I have used some high spec 8mm fuel hose with proper clamps to just replace the short perforated section, and the hose actually looks better quality than what was previously fitted. It is only about a 4" section between the end of the stainless pipe and the fuel pump itself. I will make efforts to find the PR code for this car, thank you. The guide I had found wasn't particularly accurate, no need to remove the high pressure fuel pump. It was a really easy job, couple of hours max and that was taking my time. I think had the injectors needed removing and resealing it would have taken an awful lot longer. I now have all the bits to do that plus the tool kit, more items for the 'stock room' :)

So So much gloss! Looking good still. What's next lined up?

@SiWaiting I have Columbus in my car. It's the SE L First Edition model, so it was standard for that model. @inspectorman Build date for my car was 20/7/2020... which, based on the information you found puts it at the start of the period where they were fitting parts that were not suitable for OTA updates. Back then was the Covid/lockdown times, so they may argue there was a shortage of suitable parts...?

Looking good Ryan. What’s happened to your chrome loud pedal cover ?

@SiWaiting as requested

u should try doing a Search or having a look in the Superb Guides section - u'll b surprised wat u find. How-to Guide for MIB Firmware Update - Skoda Superb Guides - BRISKODA

I am sorry if I am causing any confusion. Primarily I would like to understand at a more fundamental level how the ABS/ESP system integrates wheel rotation speed(s) and what the tolerances are. This would help in making a more informed decision. After buying my Karoq recently through a Skoda main dealer I have discovered that they fitted two new tyres to the rear wheels but of a different size to the existing fronts. I am pondering whether (a) I should go back and make a fuss about the mismatched tyres, and (b) at the very least -- a situation can arise whereby if I have a puncture and need to put on the spare wheel which is of yet a different rim/tyre size with different rolling radius/circumference, what will happen to my ABS system when it is faced with three different measurements of road speed?

Most dealers will probably entertain the idea, although they get enough returns through leasing. Something like your 2024 vRS would probably go down a treat, as they’re always looking for cars like that - that’s the same condition I got mine. I’d be tempted to look toward Meadens in Brockenhurst/Bournemouth though - I wasn’t very impressed with Richmond. It may also be worth looking at some better regarded performance used dealers - they tend to be nice to deal with. Evolve come to mind.

Hello all, I mailed @MartinB about this issue of corrupt downloads of the latest Columbus 2025/2026 maps (i.e. had he had any joy in using the files from the CDN from Škoda). I tried downloading multiple times, but each time the file showed me as corrupt on both the unzip tools in Linux and also in Windows. No joy. Turns out that those standard unzip tools only looked at the header files and determined that the header information was corrupt and then stopped working. Using my Linux (7z x) 7z decompression tool, I determined that the zip file itself was fine; it was just the header file information was corrupt. I managed to decompress the compressed file and move it onto an SD card and then update the maps as per usual.

Posting this in the hopes it helps somebody else as I could find very little across the whole internet about this one. My 2016 Octavia Scout 2.0 tdi DSG 184, CUNA variant, suddenly started just randomly cutting out whilst driving, just for a second then would carry on. Honestly would feel like you had hit something as it went with a bit a bang every time. Sometimes it would completely stall and need to be restarted. Bearing in mind I'm not a mechanic, first thought is that it was a DSG issue jumping gears. Probably overdue a transmission fluid change so had that done. no change, drives smoother though. Next, when chatting with a mechanic friend, he suggested timing belt may be stretched and slightly out. Now thia was overdue by quite a way, so had that done. No change but less stress as I knew it needed doing. Now there were no codes at all showing on either obd or vcds from the start of this saga. Even drove it to replicate the symptom with vcds recording a log. After more searching, I came across one solitary post that suggested cam and crank sensors. With the kind help one member on here on another thread about warm start issues, who posted a picture of the cam sensor location, I changed the cam sensor myself as this was the easiest and cheapest option to start with. No change. Next was the crank sensor with the help of Haynes. Not fortunately this isn't buried within the gearbox housing as my mechanic suggested it might be. It is at the front bottom of the engine, just behind the oil filter housing. Bit of a faff to change, lying in the road but managed it. I'm now about 700miles in, with no repeat of the cutting out issues, faith and trust in the car are restored and all is good. Hopefully, this may help somebody else experiencing the same issues as t'interweb is sparse for info on this one :-)

Hmm its odd that they allow you to write an arbitrary set of 10, but don't say what they mean / do. Is it possible to pull any of these down, and use the MIB sound dataset editor on them? It all feels a bit too undefined for me to try and push one in the hope that it works. It sure as anything wouldn't read the dataset for me from my 2024 Octavia, so I'd be really hesitant to have it try and write.

A) I was on about OE not OEM - with import fees. B) If they need coding and the dealer won't do it, that'll be a job for ODIS, which will probably be £1250+ with postage and import to Mauritius. A simple DCC controller (like APR) can be over £1000. Stuff like this is a lot more expensive for those outside of Europe/US/etc

A dealer near me wouldn't even install power fold mirrors as it 'wasn't a Skoda approved repair'. Not sure if they were telling the truth, or just couldn't be arsed. Anything is possible, with the right amount of money. All joking aside, to fit DCC you're probably better off selling the car and getting one with DCC - I can't imagine it will be any less than thousands of dollars, and it's not like (I assume) you have a stream of breakers, etc.

https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0CYBWX4X1/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A2GMNASO1UB595&psc=1

Life. Beyond the confines of Briskoda, people live vast and colourful existences. Hopefully he is simply having too much fun, away travelling or something - if not, then wishing him well with whatever he has going on. When I first joined @J.R. was very active. Less so now. Life happens! He'll be back if and when he wants to be.

120,000 km Service done for Gandalf! This time round, the Major Service also included the DSG Service and Brake Fluid flush. Also had the front suspension lower control arm bushings re-greased.

Does this engine have the electronically controlled water pump that restricts flow until warmed up? - oh and goes wrong!

That was one of the first things I did many many years ago - opened up the blocked second air intake opening behind the grille. Many people would think opening up blocked bit on the top of the air intake was sufficient, or getting an aftermarket air-intake with both inlets open would do the trick - but both would yield no gains on the Superb unless the blocked air intake behind the grille was opened up.

undoubtedly the greatest threat to Skoda is Skoda themselves. My first was 13 years ago and the customer experience was a revelation, dealers who were interested, honest and had a real “ can do” approach. The cars were well built, reliable and durable, OK not perfect, but were excellent value. My faith in VW group product was derived from 60k miles a year for nearly 20 years, during which the VW, Audi and Skoda cars stood up to the punishment far better than the Vauxhall, Volvo and BMW models we ran. We’re now faced with unsound engineering, substandard materials and above all, an attitude from dealers and Skoda customer service that is very much “can’t do”. My current Kodiaq has been troublesome, I could live with that, but an expectation of the dealer network that they’d be willing to resolve issues is hopelessly misplaced and after more than 20years of almost continuous VW group ownership, this will be the last. The need for something with at least 2000kg towing capacity limits choice of Japanese product so something Korean is now on the cards.