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Now has a PASS. 😀 Currently on the ramps at the local tyre place getting alignment checked, as there were some inner shoulder tyre advisories. Sawtoothing at the rear, I think, and just inner shoulder wear at front. Looks like they're adjusting toe settings, oxy torch waving about.

13 hours and one more sleep and I get to pick up my new baby 😁👍

Thanks for your responses, Gammy and Warrior. I am running the correct pressures as detailed in the handbook. Time to get the crowbar out and test the bushes then.

I know where the dongle that the VW dealer's workshop left in my wife's 2015 Polo went after we collected that car after its first service - at least I think that I know where it is - and it isn't in the car, nor did I take up the AA's offer of a similar dongle. Edit:- just to make it clear, that VW workshop just left the box etc on the passenger seat, so they didn't feel the need to force it on us, just supply it as probably requested by VW.

My Superb has had the 'mapping loading’ message since new in December 2024. Sent months being promised an update. Went in for the ACC stick replacement in July and they kept it for 4 days to do all the software updates. Maps now appear in the virtual cockpit and ACC works perfectly. Hope you have similar luck.

Finally all back together with new discs and pads and all the correct handbrake cable clips. Tried bleeding the brakes, but just cant get a firm firm pedal. It goes straight to the floor once the cars started. Im sure I don't need to bleed the abs pump as I never let the system run dry. Im hoping I don't need to replace the master cylinder. I suspect the rounded brake pipe nut is letting in air. I run out of time to investigate. I'll worry about it when I'm back from my hols!

Finally cover for the aircon unit tidies it up Next project also arrived

Be careful, a lot of fixings VAG uses are so-called 'stretch bolts' and are supposed to be used once only - this is commonly for things like cylinder head bolts, but it would be a good idea to check.

GPG antenna is in the shark fin on the roof in the rear. ACC applies brakes according to the sat nav data, you can turn it off completely in the ACC settings so you will not get surprised while driving.

I have copied my music on a USB stick and inserted it into the USB port on my 2024 Kodiaq. It works great, but when I switch to radio, then back to the USB stick, music starts from the top again. I have been listening to the first 20 songs for ever now! :-) Pressing "shuffle" does not work. It just keeps repeating the same song as if I pressed "loop" instead. Software developers didn't pay attention!

Thanks for the info. I will try again. I, sort of, gave up before.

New here, my 2004 octavia started having issues, came over here to try and find a solution for it before sending to a mechanic.

Amazing work & true dedication to the project.👍

Not quite. Think the one you are looking at does compression and leak down tests as well. It should do the job though. It comes with both 12mm and 14mm spark plug inserts. I got mine for a very old Ford industrial engine in my forklift. I found if I removed all plugs I got a faster cranking speed and better results. All you need is an aproximate reading to see if there is good compression on all cylinders. Alasdair

Has the rubber come from inside the HT leads cap. Jut wondering if its snapped off inside because its stuck somehow to plugs and broken when you removed them. If it has then a long thin screw driver might be able to loosen them from around plugs and remove before removing plugs from engine. I got a cheap compression tester off Amazon. A cheap one will do and doesnt need to be too accurate. All you want is to make sure that the three pistons are aprox equal and arent all very low This is similar to the one I got for around £15 Alasdair

I caught a short video, a technician was trying to find a battery drain and had located a specific item i.e. a radio taking current. He was using an infra red scanner when besides the radio there was an even bigger hotspot plugged into the ODB. This item is fitted by some insurance companies to monitor driving skills and can result in lower premiums. But it is constantly looking for data and the power consumption goes up even when the car is not in use. I apologise if I have not quite got this right but I thought it might give a pointer to someone trying to trace a battery drain.

Had similar noise on my mk2 octavia. Weird almost high pitch rattle but only at certain low revs. Eventually tracked it down to the heat shield above exhaust under car that had dropped as the fixing push on securing washers were rotten. Reckon at certain revs it hit resonant frequency and rattled. Used some cable connector strips to screw onto fixings stubs to wedge it up again.

Asking Administrators to move this discussion.

Officially, you need to get the turbo and actuator replaced at the same time. I think this is to match the mechanism with the turbo. However, the fault you report comes down to the actuator failing - probably due to lack of use. This is the weird thing with VAG products - you have to use them like ya stole them! Lots of turbo actuator use - plus I also recommend putting in a tank of Super Unleaded to help the performance of the engine. If you take the actuator apart, clean it up, lubricate the motor, then it can be recovered. As @Warrior193 stated, you can get actuator rebuild kits - in fact, a quick check shows that VW do a rebuild kit -

The time for a funeral pyre is if it FAILS the MoT, not after it PASSES :)

I'd not think it a good idea to have anything permanently plugged into the OBD port anyway it risks off-board computer programs buggering up the onboard ones and they already have enough potential to do that for themselves - as well as the possibly battery drain. Unless things have improved recently there's also the possibility of incorrect information being collected by the insurance information the car industries don't always use the best hard or software available, VW certainly have had a few ups and downs.

Sounds like sloppy design - but who would expect any better from insurance companies as they are just looking after their own interests.

3Q0035466A or 81A035223. No changes in wiring required. You will also need either to slightly rework or replace installation frame for the amplifier (new one part number is 3Q0907390).

Thanks so so much for all your help , much appreciated!!

Just wanted to thank you again for all the help with those screenshots...I am an expert on Developer Options now...!!

Very broody sky about 40 minutes after sunset up Beachy Head tonight. Proper windy too: Gaz

5Q0035874C and 5E0919605M is a nice set. Component protection in 5Q0035874C can be disabled in HMI (there is an error in diagnostics but the unit works normally). Component protection in CANTON amplifier must be removed online. USB for CarPlay is 5Q0035726E or 5Q0035726J.

Fitted the cruise control stalk today. It now has the mode button to toggle between the original speed limiter and the new cruise control. Everything was very straight forward except for me discovering that after fitting the new switch I had no wipers! After a short expletive moment I realised it was because I had the bonnet open and the wipers won't work unless it's closed. 😅 I have it booked in to a local indie here in Cornwall for enabling the CC which I can't do with my VCDS as it needs a live link to Skoda. They were very helpful on the phone unlike the dealer. They have quoted £75 + VAT. I used a second hand switch (£69) from ebay which @lewiswal47 kindly sent me a link to. I was very impressed with the careful packaging and the new-like quality of the part. For info - I used part number 6C0953501P. I could have used (if one was available) 6C0 953 513 F even though mine does have the MFA display. This is because mine has steering wheel controls so doesn't need the extra button on the RH stalk. It may be that a switch with MFA controls on the RH stalk button wouldn't have conflicted with the steering wheel controls but I like it as close to original as possible. My only difference now on the new stalk is the small mode button under the LH stalk and the word 'Mode' above it. If I had used 6C0 953 513 F it would also have needed a new slip ring and a bracket. Important- It seems that there are differences internally in the way the main beam in the switches work. It is possible to open up the switch and swap parts but if you want to avoid this, a general rule of thumb seems to be to look at the left hand stalk for a tiny +1. If this exists, only use a switch with the same symbol present. If your current switch has no little +1 don't buy a switch with it unless you don't mind a bit of extra faffing.

So to avoid damage to the original LED i changed to a brighter LED with the correct resistor ... tests look amazing.. First Pic original Skoda.. second with new LED..

I have the Mini for another year or longer. RAC insurance was crazy. NCB used on other cars. They wanted £1,000 with Ageas. Confused.com allow for driving other cars and no claims like the Mobility car. £450 with Ageas. Breakdown, windscreen legal cover etc. New brake pads getting fitted and fluid being done, filter and the MOT as that was due in October. It is 80 kW CCS / DC charging.

I bought a 2021 MG5 Exclusive (Estate) in White that has done 33,525 miles. Not a Long Range just a 52.5 kWh / 48.8 kWh usable. Max charging 80 kW CCS but only a maximum 6.6 kW AC (Not 11 kW) Tyres are fine for now but once i see what range i get All Season will be going on, & a tow bar for bike rack or trailer.

Close but no cigar, as they say. Both headlights aim too low and too far to the right; which is a bit odd. They'll adjust those prior to retest. OSR wheel bearing rough. Bought a spare for the wheel bearing a while back, but was in one of those quandries "is the noise definitely coming from the right?" Neither of us could tell for sure from sitting in the back seat while being driven. Wish I'd done a bit more investigation, with hindsight. Will get into that this afternoon, in the first rain for ages...😆 Could have been a lot worse, I think.

Please only put in genuine Bosch or OEM VAG parts for coil packs. Ebay parts....dodgy as f**k. You should be paying a minimum of £40 per coil pack, and they should be replaced in packs of 4.

Thank you. Your diagnosis was 100% correct.

If you are only changing 2 then there is usual problem of mixing all season and summer, will behave differently in cold weather. Having said that, if there are old budget tyres, not going to be greatest grip anyway. Your comment about you like your driving seems to conflict with the idea of budget tyres, as budget tyres either do not last as long, or do not grip as well (simple economics, if cut costs, can't afford expensive compounds that are grippier and are more wear resistant). I would be inclined to move to all season tyres, as I wouldn't recommend lively driving on winding country roads, in cold and/or wet weather on budget summer tyres.

I have never seen this newest shaped models before. I would like one.

Skoda can’t do it - we can 😅

Thanks to all for this discussion. We went for a nice long test drive (an hour with both of us taking turns) in the VRS. Fell in love and now very happy VRS owners! Looking forward to many adventures. Now to go find a Faraday box/pouch to keep it safe from keyless robbers

Thanks for clarifying. I find it sad that so many blindly equate price with value. Maybe they don't realise they're risking destroyed fuel pumps or turbos, even catastrophic engine failure in the long term. Despite any skepticism around manufacturers specifications, there's a scientific reason they mandate minimum octane fuels and would rightly void a warranty claim if they saw evidence of incorrect fuel being used. It's also another reason to be very cautious when buying a used car, no matter how pretty it might look on the outside, you just don't know what abuse it's been subjected to, such as the regular use of incorrect fuel.

Just purchased a 2017 2.0 TDI DSG 180,000 KM looking forward to getting to know this model with members help after reluctantly having to retire my 2005 1.9 PD AVF AUTO @ 480396km hopefully this will prove as reliable!

Something that annoyed me since I had my superb was the chrome peeling on the passenger door handle. Part from tps is £110 spent ages looking for a breaker that would just sell me the handle and not a full door card and finally a local breaker agreed today 😂

Update: I contacted an electronics specialist who repaired the broken cable. Then I reconnected it and it works again. Total cost 35€ - could have been cheaper, but I wanted to get it fixed today. Really happy now

Exactly. I told Admiral that I was not playing that game.

Sounds like Admiral were ripping you off at £700 if they were prepared to match the £400 Aviva price. Out of principle I would not have renewed with Admiral. Good price for your age & location. My policy is that any supplier gets just one chance to quote me & give me their best price. Anyone who comes back with a subsequent lower price when told I'm cancelling, I'm not renewing or not accepting their quote, doesn't get my business. It's the only way to keep them on their toes - at least in my mind.

A bit more time spent removing evidence of smokers...not sure it's helped any, but can't be making things any worse... Removed the long piece of trim along the dash above the infotainment screen, removed Columbus screen, removed front side, and dashboard air vents, rear air vent, cleaned front window door rubbers more thoroughly and got into the gape between the door card and internal window seal... The only parts I've not been able to remove were the big centre air vent, and the air vent/speaker cover on top of the dash; any suggestions on how to remove those greatfully received! I had a go, and things felt a bit 'snappy'! The amount of ash, dirty dust and the odd piece of unburnt tobacco that was hidden away was surprising, and really shows it gets in everywhere... That rag was clean before I started. To be fair, the really grubby mark was from the outer window door rubber, but the rest is from the interior window rubbers and air vents! The top of the screen, which you can't get to without it being removed was grim; this photo was taken after I cleaned it. I've been down a rabbit hole this weekend, investigating best cleaning practices, and there have been a few suggestions that cleaning the interior when it's hot is best as the smells are apparent and the material pores are open. With a little luck, the second Airvidox kit is arriving tomorrow, so I'll let the car get hot during the day, and clean the panels and seats tomorrow evening before dropping the bomb. The nuclear option after all this is an ozone generator... Let's see what happens over the next few days. Cheers, Nick

Giving an update on this in case it helps someone in the future. I originally went to the garage expecting to have the crankshaft position sensor replaced. The mechanic I spoke to wasn’t entirely convinced that simply swapping the sensor would solve the issue. Interestingly, he also owns a Superb himself (a slightly newer model, but same generation) and had experienced similar problems. He suspected that the root cause might be damaged wiring, which he said is a common VAG issue on this platform. I left the car with them, and after two full days of diagnostics and inspection, they confirmed that the problem was indeed wiring-related. They found and replaced four damaged wires: One going to the crankshaft sensor Three others near the ECU, which were also causing communication issues They fully diagnosed the ECU, replaced the damaged wires, and ultimately decided to replace the crankshaft sensor as well, since it may have been affected by the faulty wiring or at risk of future failure. TL;DR If you're having intermittent jerks, limp mode, long cranks, or random engine shutoffs, especially if glow plug lights or other systems flash up, don’t overlook the possibility of damaged wiring, especially near the crankshaft sensor or ECU harness. On this generation of Superb, it's more common than you'd expect. Hope this helps someone! Feel free to reach out if you’re facing a similar issue.

Hi Pete, Just a reply to say a MASSIVE thank you!. From the quick reply to my post to getting me sorted, the lightning fast turnaround and getting the part fixed and sent back the very next day. I got the part installed this morning and after 9 months I have working windows again! Such an invaluable service and so very glad I found this great place and your good self. Thank you so very much and appreciate all the help Pete.

Can’t recall whether I ever posted an update. In case not, after 4 months of emails and telephone calls, the dealer I bought the car from has paid me for what it cost to replace all 4 tyres and a wheel alignment - around £1100. The general manager at the dealer told me the cost was being shared with Skoda UK. I have to say that I am quite surprised and it was definitely more difficult for them that they had to give me cash rather than fit new tyres through their network. But I had to get them done as the rears were an MOT failure and after 4 more months they would have blown out. One thing that helped I think is that I posted on the FB group Skoda EV Lounge which is run by Skoda. On there you will see that a lot of Scandinavian customers have been compensated. The more customers who complain the more likely Skoda will correct the problem at source. If not the dealers need to check alignment as part of their PDI. Although the PDI that my dealer did was a joke. Good luck to all those with the problem. Not all Enyaqs have the problem. Nothing to do with Bridgestones btw. Message me if anyone wants my Skoda case number.

Hi, had this happen to me recently too, and found an easy way to get the cover off etc - and design that is not exactly true to the ‘Simply Clever’ slogan. Firstly it’s far too easy for luggage to knock this cover up and out of position, with button stuck permanently up. Three things happen inside: 1. the hook (A) that holds the back of the cover down has jumped off its catch 2. the back of the cover rises and the peg (B) has jumped up onto a ledge (C), so it can’t be pushed down again 3. this puts forward pressure on the button, making it stiff. But also edges (D + E) catch on each other, which stops the button going down, either when the seat is clicked back into the upright position, or by being directly pressed. Removing the cover: Release the two long front clips (F) by pulling the seat foam back on the outer side of the cover (G) to see the bottom of the clip (H), and pull it gently outwards with a hooked tool (mine is an old bike spoke) to jump off its step. Repeat on the other side (with headrest removed), and the cover comes off upwards. Preventing it happening again: Before replacing the cover, make two simple design changes. File a chamfer to the bottom of the peg (I) so that it will go past the guide ledge without catching on it. Also, file chamfers onto the edges (D+E) so that they do not catch when the button is pressed down with some forward pressure. (Sorry, forgot to take a photo after filing done). Replacing the cover: Offer the cover into the seat vertically. The peg (B) should go past its guide ledge (C) without catching on it. The two front clips will click on, and the back hook (A) will latch when the back of the cover is pressed down into place. Tuck foam in all round as needed. Done. If luggage knocks the cover up in future, it should just push back again to re-engage the hook (A). Hope this helps someone.

With an older Fabia, it might not make economic sense to spend about £1,000 on a set of four new alloy rims and tyres. Most Fabia MK2 models, except 1.4TSI 180PS/1.9TDI 105PS/1.6TDI 105PS/1.2TSI 105PS use the smaller 256x22mm front brake discs rather than the bigger 288x25mm front brake discs...so 14" wheels can be used with these smaller front brake disc models, while the bigger front brake disc models need at least 15" wheels to clear the front brake calipers. The Fabia MK2 6Jx14 rims use 185/60R14 as standard...although slightly oversize 185/65R14 or 195/60R14 can be used if it doesn't invalidate the insurance. Alcar 7250 6Jx14 ET37 5/100 57.1 steel rim https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=183884523652523108&rimCode=ALCAR7250 Sada poklic Tucanus 14" | Oficiá...Sada poklic Tucanus 14Pro rozměr ráfku: 6,0J x 14