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The Salesman of a product should have a duty to establish customer need and sell the appropriate product.

As I posted, and which you seem to have ignored, for the layman (at least all the ones I've spoken to who do not have an engineering background, including 2 of my brothers-in-law who are retired head teachers) they assume a system with a battery and an inverter will supply their home during a power cut - so they won't even think about asking the question. You're making the classic mistake of an "expert", failing to understand the thinking of a "Joe/Joanne Public".

This! With a gateway device to automatically put your home into 'island mode' (i.e. not connected to the outside grid) an AC coupled battery system can provide its own mini-grid at 230V/50Hz. My Givenergy system does this without interruption when a power cut occurs and will allow my solar inverter to power the house and charge the battery. If there is insufficient solar, the battery does the rest.

I would add and make sure the oil is up to temperature before "giving it some beans", my RS4 had an automatic lower rev limit of 4000rpm until the oil reached 80 Celsius when the full 8250rpm became available.

I'm back from Bergen Norway. over 24 hours of driving, over 1200 km. 177 km/Wh, which is 3.53 mi/kWh, lower than expected fo 15-20c perfect EV economy weather, but did have fully loaded car and driven up/down lots of mountain roads. All on Tesla superchargers paying most expensive rates without membership, comes to just under 1000 NOK, which is £75. It all happen to translates to convienent ~10p/mile. Only had to detour and wait 5m for quick top up to return the vehicle above 75% to avoid any penalty. All other charging were done whever we happen to eat/rest. Never used lower 40% of the battery, quite a few times it was well over 95% as the car was charging faster than us eating. Lots of stalls so wasn't blocking anyone. The Volvo EX40 twin motor is overall nice but traditional car, drives well, good one-pedal mapping. I personally didn't get on with it due to being a very traditional car (pilot assist not crystal clear when it's active, traditional driver's door pull and then double latch to access frunk storage, poor interior space with transmission tunnel, unconfigurable thottle delay accessing full power). Speaking of which, Tesla had very recently published their part 4: Tesla’s Master Plan 4: Elon Musk’s Vision For The Future Of Energy & Mobility - Auto Times News It sounds similar to how UK is (IMO rightly) approaching wind and thus free electricity sessions: sustainable abundance In case anyone is interested, previous parts are available here: Master Plans | Tesla Regarding solar inverter. They are mostly grid-tied. You'll need grid-forming inverter and a gateway device to isolate your home to be resilient from power cuts. But one grid-forming inverter could keep multiple grid-tied inverters online. My Tesla Powerwall 3 is able to keep 6 kW V2H and 3 kW solar inverter online and functioning as normal.

With so many lack of communication error codes I'd not take too much notice of any of the other error codes until more diagnostics and information is done and available. I put a link to a good diagnostics chap for general information and examples of how things are so intertwined, his latest video is a good example, knowledge, experience and access to the right information also helps but like everyone he had to learn things for a first time to know them now. BTW nothing wrong with suitable good quality LED bulbs but many buy cheap crap that can cause issues. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=js4XbiFl2Yc

Fair point/question - they are actually Michelin CrossClimate i.e. all season I guess. I have been running at lower pressures than recommended, around 32-34psi, on my recent trip to France I averaged 50-55mpg (much of it 2 adults 2 children plus luggage, 1.5 TSI Estate) mainly motorway driving 65-80mph. Given that good mpg, I'm not inclined to increase the pressure as doubt I'd save much fuel by increasing and prefer less harsh ride and noise. Thanks everyone for the advice

Government has updated the list of cars that get the £1500, or £3750 electric vehicle grant. Both Skoda Enyaq and Elroq are in £1500 category. There is a £37k limit, so more expensive and powerful versions are not eligible

I wonder how many homeowners with solar plus battery are aware of the difference between a grid-tied inverter and a grid-forming inverter? I suspect it's a very small percentage...

Honestly....VAG engines need to be given regular stretching. I know the perceived wisdom is low revs, drive in a conservative manner, but honestly, that does nothing but cause problems on VAG engines. I honestly take my TSI 190 and floor it to get the revs up and work the turbo. This also keep the GPF happy, the EGR happy as well as the injectors. You won't harm the engine (that's what the rev limiter is there for). Only caveat is make sure you have enough oil prior to taking the car out and giving it some poke.

It most definitely will NOT brake!! Trust me, I know, whilst doing 80 km/h towards a car already stopped at the lights!! ACC relies on a moving reference target (in the same direction and lane as u r travelling in) to determine if it needs to slow down. A stationary object (car stopped at the traffic lights) will NOT tell the ACC on ur car to slow down gracefully. Instead it will scream "BRAKE!" at u, and then hit the stationary car/object that was stopped at the lights....if u don't react on time jumping on ur brakes!! Manoeuvre Assist (available from MY18 onwards) will actually stop u from hitting something, but only works at below a certain speed, i.e. parking speeds. It won't stop u when travelling at normal speeds on the roads.

I can't understand why it wouldn't go into gear with a burnt out clutch, if the friction material is gone there is no drive through to the gearbox hence won't go up hill so there is nothing to stop it going into gear. In 49 years as a mechanic the last 33 my own business I have towed in many cars with a burnt out clutch and not seen one that wouldn't go into gear. incidentally I have have just part exed my 1.2 tsi Rapid Sport which I bought at one year old with 4.5k on it, it now has just over 120k on it with the original clutch.

I've had a dig about and found a good guide on YouTube to CAN bus faults which I thought was worth sharing. The OP stated that the battery had already been checked but I noticed that the first recommendation on this video was to do just that, so it's clear there can be a link as some of you have said. @Rheumy Agreed, problem is it is difficult to know what is and isn't related in this case. All the rear lighting is off the body control module so I can't see why there would be a connection to any CAN bus issue with those errors. So maybe an intermittent bad earth - perhaps another issue of wire breakages in the tailgate grommet? I happened to spot another familiar error code in there - the B116229 gear selector one and I bet I know what that is 😄

Hello, my name is Elliott. I am into many things, mostly computers and electronics, as well as cars, particularly eastern bloc vehicles like Trabants etc as well as EVs. I am 21, I just finished studying Physics at University but I only passed my driving test in January. My nan does not drive anymore, so she is giving me her red 2007 Fabia 1 1.2 HTP 12V (the BME engine from what I gather?). It has sat on the drive for a few years and developed a few problems, some of which you'll probably see me asking about on here. So I thought it would be a good idea to join the forum. Hopefully I can keep the car going for a while - my nan has had the car since 2010, so we know its history and the problems it has had in the past, so I'd rather keep it going if I can even if it might become a bit more economic to replace it, as long as it is not anything too severe. Also looks like my dad's next company car is going to end up being an Enyaq lol. He also used to have a Felicia with the VW SDI engine he modified to run on straight vegetable oil for a few years that he used to commute to London every day, but sadly that had some problems and was scrapped circa 2010. There was a Favorit estate sitting rusting away very near where I live in Brampton, cambs until only a year or so ago, but when I checked recently it has gone - seems like owners moved out or died. I wonder if anyone on the forum bought it, as there aren't many left. I hope it didn't get scrapped, though it probably did! Looking forward to talking to people about Skodas!

Yes I am aware of the nature of the transmission. The double acting clutch mechanism and the dual gearbox input shafts. The main dealer would likely be prohibitively expensive hence I was looking for an independent. My area is sparsely populated but even Hull has no one fixing DSG transmission.

I had a good dent in my front wing which was taken out by a firm called axi-dent. www.axi-dent.co.uk The technician did a brilliant job after about 45 min of tapping and tapping, at the finish the dent was gone, no sign at all. They only remove dents and do not do any painting. Might be worth a call.

Yes works on both speeds

arrived from CZ today, fits perfectly, €30 all in, thanks!

Taxed & tested and just waiting to put the personal plates on. Insured from tomorrow on my Reg number. It is not a Long Range i have.

Blimey 60mpg for 1.5 TSI is very impressive - I have something to aim for 😄 I will think about increasing those pressures...

Usually around 15 mins for the cycle to complete.

Hi there, Although no obvious corncerns have been identified I did as follows: Upon inspection the PVC valve located on top of engine allowed some air to pass in both directions(when blowed into the hose) £14 new valve Engine oil level was approx 0.5l above top of dipstick max notch, (believe oil could splash by contact with piston causing higher hc emissions ) 1 l of oil has been drained to be on safe side, now dipstick shows half level Some cataclean added to 1/4 tank Precat oxygen sensor replaced to be on safe side, £25 for non original As the car doesnt come with engine temp gauge I wasnt sure the tester performed the test on warm engine...prior to retest I drove the car for few miles on low gears to ensure everything is warm As a result the emissions have passed with perfect results as shown, hope that helps anyone in same situation

you dont need any tool to reset service interval.. othervise OBD 11 ot VCDS.

OP was asking about Front Assist - not ACC. He has located Front Assist data regarding engagement speeds.

Hi, Hoping this is the right place / topic to ask. I'm about to receive my new Superb 4 L&K TDI 193 CP. I'm a bit surprised by the DOT of the tyres (dealer sent me pictures with the tyres): they were made in week 2 of 2025 (DOT is: 0225) whereas the car has been produced in week 33. Is it normal for the tyres to be that "aged" compared to the rest of the car? P.S. The tyres are: Good Year Eagle F1 R19

Yes there's an extra cable to run. You specifically need a 6R0035501D which I got from cars-equipment (https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/roof-antenna-8/oem-6r0035501d-vw-skoda-roof-shark/ - took weeks to arrive IIRC), most of the sharkfin aerials don't have DAB. You'd need to run DAB and GPS wires down through the headlining and then behind the glove box which is a fair bit more work than windscreen mount aerial.

Morning all New member here, I recently purchased a 2016 Scout for my wife but I'm secretly longing for it. Just thought I'd say hello. George

Hi, George, welcome.

I have templates that I bought a few months ago and I never had time to install the rails. I bought used templates in the UK for £60 incl delivery to London, and used rails in Poland for 25 pounds plus a set of screws at Skoda Direct for £20 or so. I plan to install it all next week or in a week aftwr because I am still on holiday. I can to sell the templates for £60.

I am not sure whether it is the acc or front assist which operates on circumstances like this. As @JR RS said i do not think that acc or front assist cannot prevent a crash in that situation. But, I saw another info in the forum which says emergency brake is operational up to 60 kmph while approaching to a stationary object and automatically operates and bu brakes. Which safety assistant is responsible in this situation, i am not sure. Also the speed values are very different for systems to operate.

Used the resources on here as guest for the last three years as a Karoq owner, getting a new Enyaq so thought it was time to contribute a bit more.

I don’t think that’s a thing anymore. If anything it’ll be coded to the ecu and just work. Issues might come in if someone was to replace it later for one from another car. Then it might need coding in.

My similar engine idles at 1000 rpm if the engine has not been run for a few days or in cold weather. It does that if it sees the battery voltage indicates a recharge needed.

Very true - and a nice little earner for them. But in this case where the part is over a grand fitted, and it is to resolve a single failing switch within - which was evidently not fit for purpose in the first place - that isn't exactly doing the brand any good, and scrapping an entire selector isn't environmentally friendly either. What VW Group should have done of course is make a variant of the switch kit for the Fabia. After all, they evidently went to the trouble of making a variant specifically for the Skoda Kodiaq (that is part 5Q0 713 128 B). But what do we know 😄

Good idea - I have put them in the guides section. Yes, I was doing this with my phone so it was a bit of a challenge and a mix of views.

My panels to batteries feeds my seperate circuit and not connected to the Grid for export to. It has been getting challenging as to where to put all the kwhs generated in PM period for use in the evenings. Notice some degradation. In one of my batteries, ie a L ion one, other one of my bigger batteries, LFP, seems to be standing up better. Mega bargains for solar generators seem to occur not until Black Friday - Cyber Monday. Will be looking out for one with a 3 to 4 kW output and around 4 kWh storage or bigger but one with trolley wheels and will take with me when I move house.

Safety always comes first in the order of things so if any critical system develops a fault it will limit performance to persuade you to stop asap. Many other systems will come out in sympathy (and warning lights and codes) when they also don't get the constant messages they expect from their neighbours. It could be something as simple as a fuse or more involved like a break in the wiring or faulty controller. Good luck and fingers crossed for you! @Yorkshiremidge's video link is a good description of how interconnected these systems are on modern cars even if you don't particularly understand the testing procedures. Personally I'm glad I retired years ago!

It sounds like the CAN system is not functioning at all. One thing that can go wrong is a fault on another controller (ECU) on the system or an item linked to a controller which can cause the CAN system to go down by broadcasting garbage. It's interesting that you have so many right rear bulb codes. I think I would remove the right lamp holder to take it out of the equation. You may come across some corrosion or dampness there. If you can get access to VCDS you can see the status of the CAN connection for each controller (engine, air bags, ABS etc). Assuming you have enough communication at the time to make diagnostics possible which doesn't look very hopeful!

There are loads of ECUs in a modern car - and to reduce wiring, they communicate with each other using a data circuit called the CAN bus. i.e. they are actually messaging each other. I'm looking at all those errors and the common thread is CAN bus issues all over the place - so I think it's probably the CAN bus wiring itself (intermittent break, short etc.). If you consider the CAN bus as the car equivalent of a your spinal cord, you can begin to understand what sort of chaos a fault on it is going to cause - and I think that is exactly what you are seeing. It could be a simple wiring fix, but finding the fault might take the garage a bit of time.

Hi, welcome. So many things to check that might throw this up, proper diagnostics required, and being intermittent is a PITA so you might have to throw in wiggle, hot, cold, water/damp tests. Certainly start at the battery and main power and earth connections and leads, then you might test fuses, relays, ignition/start buttons, modules, wires, connections, etc.. Then the computer systems are complex and intertwined so if there is a second or more contributing problems it could be back loading from lots of sources. The CAN bus can be off from the starting point and/or or points playing it up. You've not put which (part)year your car is or if it's DSG and or KESSY (light or to me full nuisance), IIRC the CJZD is the 1.2 TSI with extra turbo(?). Intermittent or not for electrical stuff on a car I don't know I'd (not that I know or can do much) always start at the very basics, that are often missed by even the knowledgeable and experienced, from battery posts on, are the terminal posts clean, and terminal post clamps clean (inside and out) and securely fitted, then main battery leads and their connections, check battery state of charge and condition - then plug in the scan tool to see what it has. Let us know how you get on if you're lucky you might get someone good at diagnostics and find it's something quite straightforward and easy fix despite it looking so dramatic. See this chap who gets similar with other cars/vans and how he solves them. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354

Amazing work & true dedication to the project.👍

I'm fairly sure that's a MIB2 system which I believe didn't support Wireless Android auto. Even if it did, in my experience with my MY21 Karoq with an early MIB3 system, wireless AA was pretty ropey! My current MY24 system is much better! As @Rbz5416 says , to get wireless , you would likely need an adaptor

@jimharston23 Are you actually running 'Winter tyres' all year as in Snow tyres or are they 'All Season / All Weather tyres? 3PMSF What tyres are them. Brand / name. Re the advice about Winter and tyre pressures and increasing. Same stuff for a couple of decades, and this is not Winter or winter temps and All Season / Summer bias tyres are not as Winter Tyres well. The plus 0.2 bar or the likes are Cold Temp settings, as in set at the temp that day or weather not the same as if a freezing ground temp at night and maybe 15*oC air or road temp day time. (Not set in a heated / warmer garage.) Head for thinking and feet for dancing. & location location location. 'The nights are drawing in' After a heat wave English Bank Holiday Monday comes maybe a rainy week and a few cold nights Oop north. Even frost before September.

Just to finish off, it was an ABS wheel speed sensor. Apparently when they fail they set off the other warning lights as well. Thanks for all of the advice above.

How many hours for such an amazing result ? 👏 Errr... I think there may be 1 or 2 small fly droppings on the inner side of your garage door... 🤣

after a couple of weeks behind the wheel, some more personal observations it feels more dynamic from the get go then the previous model, there is obviously a small power hike, but the gearbox in normal mode just feels quicker, throttle response in normal feels quicker. so it feels like it always just wants to go..it feels fast all of the time, it feels like its just ready to go at it straight away. and anybody else whos got velvet red...it looks amazing when the sun catches it, its got a flake in it that really pops, like a little golden sheen

Strangely the issue stopped happening. I believe there was air in the system after the water pump change. Whenever the coolant system got up to temperature and pressurised the level in expansion tank would drop as that air got compressed. It would surge up again when cap was removed but never quite to the same level. I think eventually the system managed to "self-bleed" the air but it took 10,000s of km to do so.

This is coming from front control arms. This thing cracks: