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Same problem on my car, the antenna was bad, it's a known problem that it takes in water and then makes the GPS all wild, soon after the SOS-button goes red also.

Aaand we have a winner... Congratulations that man! Yes it's a totally base model fiat Tipo in dark blue with a few dings and a fair few scratches that has clearly had quite a hard life over the years (it looks to be an early pre face-lift model) but from a distance looks pretty good and to give it its due it drives well. To be honest though it's perfect for the rough greek roads and if it gets another couple of scratches I doubt anybody will be too concerned. Rather perversely though it has been fitted with an aftermarket all singing and all dancing Huawei based head unit complete with sat nav. The latter is totally unfathomable though and doesn't seem able to find anywhere we need it to as its set up to use English but can't recognise the English versions of Greek placenames... Which means it's useless as we don't know greek and it doesn't have a Greek keyboard. Halelluia for sygic and Google maps though as I discovered yesterday that it also has android auto! Pictures can follow tomorrow when / if it stops raining. Ps the spare wheelwell is also a miniature swimming pool but I'm not sure if that was due to the hire place washing it before we collected it or the torrential rain we've been having

Disastra

As the engine warms up combustion is easier, hence longer glow plug function on colder days.

In the first instance, your radar possibly mistakenly identified the bridge abutments as a bend in the road ahead. In the second, I'd suggest it was operating correctly, as, although only a minor one, there was actually a junction there. Possibly not an issue on motorways due to more open space to either side and no cross-junctions - but maybe your radar is a little oversensitive.

Tried this today, and it works on models with the automatic tailgate option. This will enable the automatic boot closing from the interior button and the remote keyfob. Go to Controller 6D - Trunk Electric 16 - Security Access - enter 12345 10 - Adaptations Change as per the below screenshots

I recall that there is a setting in the GPS menu that allows the number of satellites being tracked to be displayed on the screen - this sub-menu location may vary depending on the system installed, but I will check my Amundsen MIB2 system tomorrow morning. This satellite display would likely give an indication if there is a problem with the antenna.

I believe if one scrolls back a few yrs of this thread to circa 2018/19 I got a Tipo in Northern Italy when we went to Venice. It was grand. Drive grand. Felt grand. Was kitted grand. Fit the at the time 3 of us and the bags and baby crap. I do see the very very odd one around from time to time but they are a rare vehicle this far up Northern Europe. Edit - page 1! The first round of this thread 😆

I believe your compressor is a clutchless design, which has variable displacement controlled by a proportional solenoid valve. This has been the case from day one of Fabia production, back in the previous millenium. A small proportion of refrigerant circulates all time the engine is running, even when the A/C system is switched off. So the need to run it regularly to keep things lubed etc has no basis in reality. It's also not true that refrigerant will need to be removed and replaced for a pressure sensor change; there's a valve under the sensor that prevents significant loss during such a change. @Evolution13 is likely to have info about recommended spark plugs on a CTHE. I could tell you the suggested OE part number, but I doubt you'll be buying genuine Skoda items.

Nope... I wish given the torrential rain and road, - sorry, track - up to the villa we're in...

When you push the button the vehicle is effectively at 2nd click if you had a Key. The warning is what i would expect if i was doing that. Ignition is on and you are draining the battery. There is no accessory mode. Push to start cars infotainment systems usually come on if you press the on button on that. usually with a warning "This will shut down in 30 minutes" or similar.

Mine is a mk4.5 and to clarify. I get in, push the start button without the brake depressed -- engine off. After 20 seconds I see the battery warning message on the dash "12 V battery is being discharged. Please start the engine.". The amber battery warning light then displays on the dash. If I go the vehicle menu in the infotainment the reports section is highlighted amber and contains the aforementioned warning. Push the start button with the brake depressed -- engine on. Warning clears from all aforementioned locations. My query at the start of this thread was wether this is normal or not. In my previous mk3.5 Superb I would get a similar warning but only if I had been the car -- engine off -- with the infotainment etc running for quite some time. Maybe over an hour. Edit: If this is normal behaviour and is purely intended to be a reminder of sorts then it seems overly keen. It presents as a more serious warning in every sense and is not consistent with previous vehicles -- primarily Skodas -- I've owned and the other Skoda we currently own. Anyway, it's going in on Monday to get replaced. We'll see what happens then.

And you’re Hungarian too 😄🤝

Ours is a 2017, 4x4 15, DSG 7 seater and it can tow. If you have a single sheet of A4 paper with the car, called an EU Certificate of Conformity, that will tell you beyond all question. Field 18.3 is the maximum weight of braked trailer it can tow. Field 18.4 is the maximum weight of unbaked trailer it can tow.

Which will mean less time in the warmup phase for ICE, and hence could lead to lower emission figures without any actual change to the engine mechanics or fuelling strategy - so will make ICE appear better during the test without any effect on the real world figures!

The new emmisson standard is going to test ICE cars at higher temperature, specifically at 35C rather than just 30C, temperatures we are seeing in the UK increasingly like we did here in Worcestcestershire a few weeks ago and similar in SE England. With Euro 7 the test us to include brake dust but this is just another area EVs will win hands down due to their regenerative braking. The only area EVs owners might be worried is tyre particles but, as we have shown with examples, EVs are not, in general, the super heavy weights painted in the bias media. Also a test for engines, and batteries, at high mileages. Yet another win for EVs. Whilst ICE vehicles will have leaking piston rings etc the EV motor etc just keep on knocking out similar power with no pollution from the power plant. As with the conditions of the EV grants if the battery falls to below 80 % capacity that is poor but even then the EV is usable and clean and not belching out massive pollution way outside its parameters like ICE would be. Fix might be relatively simple replacing the below par cell or pack.

I thought even ulez was only euro 4 for petrol and euro 6 for diesel. So no need to sell euro 5 petrol (post 2006) Euro 4 emissions standards (petrol)CO: 1.0g/km THC: 0.10g/km NOx: 0.08g/km Euro 4 Diesel target was half of the co2 allowed for petrol but 3 x Nox

Nope but probably equally as bad?

I rarely use the second key fob (stored in a faraday pouch), but after replacing the battery in the one I normally use I continued to get the dashboard warning. Tried several different batteries, no difference. Out of desperation I tried the second key, got the warning so changed that one too. All fine with both keys! Two years or so later, same thing. Change the battery in the primary key, still got the warning. Changed it in the pretty much unused second key as well, all fine. BTW, I always use Panasonic CR2023 batteries. From my experience they last longer than other brands.

If you remove some of the air ducting between front of car and airbox, you may have enough view downwards to see the reverse light switch on the front face of gearbox, low down, and particularly the wiring exiting from its connector. Not sure. Might have to ease the odd coolant hose aside. Might be able to spot a broken, dangling wire that way, rather than having to get under the car.

I’ve just got the cam belt and tensioner replaced - and a new “fan belt” fitted to my wife’s August 2015 BW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT that cost me roughly £550 in labour. I only did that as I had considered that 10 years was an okay time to replace these parts. The guy at the desk said “that’s it for the next 5 years” - that was at a VAG Indie workshop, I said that it will be a lot later than 5 years before I get the cam belt kit replaced next! The car seems absolutely fine after that work, though it does now smell of “older lady’s perfume” as some cleaning/beautifying stuff was sprayed over all the black plastics! So I’ll need to clean that junk off!

Can you measure the battery voltage when you are actually suffering from the heavy steering to see if it drops under load from the power steering? The power steering should be fully functional even at 12 V.

I don’t think my 18 month old battery is the best. My tester keeps telling me to replace along with a reading of 58- 70% SOH ( depending on battery mood and temps) Everytime i go into diagnostics with the obd11 I’m welcomed with a lot of communication errors that keep returning . I also have seen a “ low voltage “ one. I do a lot of miles so the battery shouldn’t be low. The interesting part is if i didn’t have a tester or an obd11 i woild never know about the issue. Start stop works flawlessly, car cranks nicely and no errors ever on the dash.

Let's refresh memories, "covered car park fire safety guidance for EV" was the report: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517208-car-park-fires-transporters-ships-any-fires-any-evs-involved-or-not-thread-were-they-the-cause-just-there-and-so-made-fighting-the-fire-harder/page/6/#findComment-5804476 The data on page 21 came from Thatcham Research and MIAFTR. " Thatcham Research, the UK motor insurers’ research centre, used the data from the Motor Insurance Anti-Fraud and Theft Register (MIAFTR) and their own data to categorise fire claims by vehicle fuel type, excluding claims relating to theft as they could be due to arson. " First, this number did not come from fire departments. Second, previously you talked about Thatcham Research, where it supported your views, you claimed they were very reputable. The number that kept being quoted is because that's the only stat available. Until you've got more reputable stats, casting doubt on reputable figures seems to have arterial motive.

Stop start not working is one sign of a dead battery. Lots of Random comms/module errors is another that the voltage is going out of spec, which is often the battery.

Nope. I am using steering normally without lots of turning

Checked the battery voltage and it shows 13.5 volt after start the car and around 12 when the car is turned off.

The Kodiaq is available in both 5 and 7 seat models, mine just happens to be a dedicated 5 seat, it is however as far as I can see, identical in size on Mk1 version like mine. When I was looking for replacement for the Superb, I tried a 7 seat version for size and there was no way of fitting my family of 6ft 4" sons in it for anything longer than a quick run into town shopping. The boot size was also poor as the extra 2 seat eat away at the space and in order to fit 7 people in it, the middle row have been moved forward. The 5 seat model does not have that problem, it is on a par with the Superb for passenger space, but because you are sitting more upright, the overall length could be and has been shortened so it is smaller overall footprint on the road. I'm not even to comment on the rest of your reply as I'm perfectly sure that time will clearly show that many of the claims being made to convince us of climate change is simply not true., so let time show us who was right.

No worries. I don't know the why's and wherefores of it. Probably accountants. They're mostly aesthetic anyway IMO with minimal sound suppression.

Can't report much on the battery on the vRS as we've only just collected it however we handed back our Tesla M3 after 4 years and 70k miles and it had only lost 30 miles in range. Our new vRS is giving roughly 3.1 miles/KWh but the car is still learning our driving style. We charged it up last night and a full charge is showing as giving 329miles. WRT to quality, the interior on the vRS is lovely. Lots of alcantara and the seats are super comfy. Ride quality is excellent however when the car is initially turned on it starts in ECO mode which makes the throttle not so responsive and the suspension quite wallowy. We have now set Individual mode to Sport on the suspension, Sport on the drive train and normal on the steering and this makes the car sublime to drive. To compare electric to petrol to diesel depends on where you charge it. If you charge at home the cost is significantly cheaper than dinosaur juice. Out and about is another matter with some energy suppliers charging an extortionate amount to charge up. If it's a company car then who cares? Just expense the costs and you'll brag to your mates in the pub that the car only costs you £20 a month BIK. We love the car. It's our first Skoda and I can say I'm very impressed by the build quality and functionality (we have 3 other cars in our household, Hyundai, Kia and Porsche). The Skoda app isn't quite as good as Tesla's but they are pretty much in a league of their own but the Skoda has old skool buttons that are great. The ADAS systems are a PITA but there is a shortcut physical button that takes you to the ADAS page and you untick 2 boxes and the systems are off. Hope it helps a little.

I have a Sealey 'memory protector' that plugs into a car's OBD port and is intended to save transitory settings (time/date etc.) when a starter-battery is disconnected. I used this when I replaced my 2021 Hyundai i20's battery, but this wasn't really necessary and I my primary interest was whether or not the Sealey product worked as I anticipated.. In the "12V vehicle battery" section of the Fabia Mk 4 Owner's Manual is the following advice: Recommendations when the vehicle is stationary for more than three weeks Disconnect the negative terminal of the 12V battery. So - as you are only going to clean your Fabia's battery terminals (and if you are prepared to reset the time and window settings afterwards) - disconnecting and reconnecting the battery should be problem-free.

I did a shock change this morning and had same problem with seized pinch bolt, smacking it with a hammer didn't do anything ended up heating up with blow torch and using impact driver on the torx end manage it get it free.

The LED DRL tube is burnt at the end where it sits on the circuit board. That's why it's yellow. It's whole headlight replacement unfortunately. Otherwise, if ur feeling brave, i.e. u open up (dismantle) the headlights completely, u can then source the DRL tube and DRL circuit board from AliExpress and replace the burnt components. I haven't done it, but these pics r from others who have. The second pic, left one, shows a burnt LED.

...every time I think I know better than Waze I get it wrong... 😁😁😁 I learned this quickly as I was planying with it at the beginning!! Now, is not impossible to "make it better", but this depends on how well you know the tricks of the roads you are going through ... if you know a few shortcuts or a couple of tricks - some of them not really allowed by the road code - you can significantly make some better time. But in short, Navi are indeed getting better, but sometimes the keen eye of the "lookout" is still unbeatable ...

Hello, welcome to the forum. Not completely definitive, but if your load plate has a total train weight substantially higher than the actual vehicle weight, yes it can.

No, I don't know how it's supposed to work in the MIB. I haven't seen it work on any FL model either

PDF files only. If you download everything to your local device then you only need to pay once.

Image of said 'wire of doom' with typical failure point arrowed: @LandK, as with rear door carrier leaks, this is one of those mk1 Fabia problem areas that's more of a 'when' than an 'if'.

Oh yes it does! ..... and it has done so for me at least once. Scared me half to death but avoided a rear end with a hidden post in my blind spot. When reversing it is automatic and in a narrow lane, as soon as you slow to a crawl the parking sensors turn on and it is active in scenarios like "Karock" mentioned. Agreed it is not the radar but it has the protection none-the-less. The OP did not mention whether it was his parking sensors that kicked in or the front radar. My guess is that it might have been the parking sensors "Automatic Emergency Braking" feature - well just as likely as the radar option which it could also have been (as well as some others if you paid for certain other features. Page 222 and 223 in my manual:

Just be aware that in the event of an accident, your insurance company could take the view that an accident was 'preventable' if the front assist had been active - they might consider apportioning some fault to you if the system was deactivated.

I would keep them on to be honest. The occasional phantom inclident (if caused by a leaf/crisp packet) is worth it for the things it might well save you from if it is off. It stopped me forwarding into my garage door some time ago and also stopped me reversing into a low wall. If it keeps happening then it is faulty and may need repairing.

Yes. When i came back from France the car thought it was still there for 2 days. It sometimes thinks i’m going across fields. It can stop the acc from working too. It’s intermittent and because there are no fault codes the dealer isn’t interested.