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Eh?? Evidence please Also as an aside... The experience of colleagues who have switched to heat pumps from gas has not been good... With them citing cold houses and much higher bills added to the high cost of installation

I rather suspect his post was ironic. A significant issue with heat pumps is their maximum attainable outflow temperatures, which will not normally be able to reach the level of a gas or electric boiler. This can cause issues due to radiators now being undersized. Even ground source heat pumps suffer from this unless they use underfloor heating loops.

It's normal and I doubt it's alterable. Won't flatten the battery unless the brake pedal is pushed continuously.

Indeed it could have been ironic but you never can tell given some of the inaccuracies and rubbish he spouts... It could easily be something he believes he has evidence of. Re outflow temps... Yes absolutely... Which is the issue colleagues have experienced necessitating new larger radiators and additional insulation and draught proofing... As well as permanent running of the heat pump... But they still have issues.

Following on from Austin 7 anyone that's been on the forum for a decent length of time will see posts where all sorts of strange electrical gremlins came down to a dodgy battery, usually one that's fairly elderly. (I experienced this myself). Before spending a lot of money I'd check the age of the battery - if it's getting long in the tooth think about replacing it now rather than when it fails (it's probably not that far into the future and in the big picture it's not a lot of money). Even if it turns out that replacing the battery doesn't cure the problem it's one critical thing eliminated and you can proceed with other tests knowing its a good battery.

At lower outdoor temperatures the efficiency of heat pumps is much lower. Sometimes not much more than 100% if it's very cold.

Heat pumps are 300-400% efficient compared to a combi boiler 90-95%, so between 315% and 444% efficiency gain. Currently on Octopus 16M Fixed my gas costs 6.42p/kWh and my electricity costs 24.98p/kWh, so electricity is 389% the cost of gas. This means the running cost benefit of heat pump vs combi boiler is open to question depending on individual appliances. If you take into account paying back the purchase & installation cost of the heat pump even with the substantial grants available (and making good the plumbing to the boiler), the probable additional cost of upgraded radiators (because of the lower water temperature), and the possible cost of adding hot water storage, then it appears to be doubtful whether changing from combi boiler to heat pump is financially viable on an individual basis?

...including any radiator upgrades and, if you had a combi boiler with no hot water tank, any upgrades to the hot water system? Oh any how much, if any, making good of decorations (painting, plastering, etc.)?

How much did the install cost for your heat pump and how much does it cost to run compared to gas central heating?

Yes, I can’t believe the behaviour is by design, I could understand maybe a timer in eco mode where it would turn them off after a period of time from setting off. Not tried the heated rear screen yet to be honest will give it a try and see.

Wasn't COP30 held in Brazil and a large slice of Amazon rainforest cleared to build the conference facilities and accommodation for the many thousands of personal, all of which were flown in on many filthy polluting airplanes? Its a bit hypocritical surely when do that, the rainforest actually digests huge amounts of CO2 which just what we need apparently to combat increasing levels of CO2 and thus help to "save" the planet, but that all gets swept aside and is ignored as nothing is allowed to disrupt the narrative of Net-Zero, but these so-called conferences are actually making it worse? Haven't they ever heard of Zoom so that nobody need to add to their carbon footprint, oh no, it's only us the public who have to make sacrifices.

I’m certain, from my own experience, that we haven’t got the best system. But the USA insurance scheme isn’t the answer. Need follow up mri scans for something like breast cancer - pay it yourself at $3,000 a time the insurance won’t cover it, a friends relative has got this going on now. Maybe they need better insurance but then it comes down to that Alan B’Stard quote “you’re poor, you get ill, you die.” Anyway, back to Electric car truth - I’ve got a 100 mile journey today, will I make it, run out of electricity or explode somewhere 😬 ?

Wasn't particularly thinking of the USA but my wife is German and to her the NHS compared to what she was used to are night and day. And it's actually nothing bad in the US as long as you have proper insurance.

I bought and recoded the same replacement battery for my 2015 Fabia 3 last year. Change 59 to 65 and 1111111111 to 1111111112. Leave EFB and JCB unchanged.

-> next 2026-2027 cross compatible on: Skoda Columbus (Mib2H), Seat Navi Plus (Mib2H), VW Discover Pro (Mib2H), Audi MMI Navigation Plus (Mib2H) Porsche PCM4.0 (Mib2H) # ECE 14.6 GB Version: V03.959.823.HL 430 ECE 2026 DevVersion: P430_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT_Q1.25 VW portal: - Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/HIGH2_P430_EU_202545.zip Files inside: 2025.03.31 Downloadable: 2025.11.05 Published: 2025.11.-- # Rest of World 16 GB Version: V03.959.822.HM 433 ROW 2026 DevVersion: P433_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT_Q1.25 VW portal: - Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/HIGH2_P433_ROW_202545.zip Files inside: 2024.05.16 Downloadable: 2025.11.05 Published: 2025.11.-- ======= coverage ======= # EU Albania*, Andorra, Austria, Belarus*, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina*, Bulgaria*, Croatia, Cyprus*, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia*, Finland, France, Germany, Gibraltar, Great Britain, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo*, Latvia*, Liechtenstein, Lithuania*, Luxembourg, Malta, Moldova*, Monaco, Montenegro*, Netherlands, Northern Macedonia*, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania*, Russia*, San Marino, Serbia*, Slovakia, Slovenia*, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey*, Ukraine*, Vatican City * partially # ROW Argentina*, Australia, Bahrain, Botswana*, Brazil*, Brunei*, Chile*, Indonesia*, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lesotho*, Malaysia, Mexico*, Mozambique*, Namibia*, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines*, Qatar, Reunion*, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Swaziland*, Thailand*, Turkey*, United Arab Emirates * partially ======= instruction ======= 1. download 7z/zip archive from direct link 2. extract content to SD Card or USB 3. insert memory device into slot of Columbus 4. start of update usually is offered automatically, manually can be found under Navi-> Settings !!! note for MAC users -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/452002-direct-download-links-for-ece-20182019-maps/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5095042 couple of potential questions are answered in previous posts: Columbus Maps 2025/2026 Columbus Maps 2025 Columbus Maps 2024/2025 Columbus Maps 2024 Columbus Maps 2023/2024 Columbus Maps 2023 Columbus Maps 2022/2023 Columbus Maps 2022 Columbus Maps 2021/2022 Columbus Maps 2021 Columbus Maps 2020/2021 Columbus Maps 2020 monthly POI's collection files downloading from X-o-m-k-a's blog

Hello everyone! I was trying to code remote controls on a key that I bought, but it showed on [46] central convenience, adaption, the first option that is not available. So I scanned faulty codes on the [46] and all these popped up. Unfortunately I can't send the logs, as I cleared the codes, but they pop up slowly again as I drive it more. Could this be a CCM problem? Or is it something else?

Had my mk4 superb estate for a little while now and this morning was the first time I needed to use the heated mirrors to clear condensation, after waiting for a few mins I found they had not de-misted at all so cleared them manually. (Previous car was a MK3 Octavia in which the mirrors would clear within a minute. ) I then left them on for my 20min journey to work to see if they would kick in, on arrival I checked both mirrors with my hand and they were still stone cold. Was about to ring the dealer to book in for a warranty repair but thought I’d have a play around on the infotainment first to see if there was a setting that I missed. I found nothing relating to heated mirrors specifically but after much searching I found that changing the climate setting on my custom drive mode profile from “eco” to “normal” both mirrors fired up and got warm quickly. Is this “normal” behaviour on other peoples cars? Seems odd that Eco mode would prevent them heating completely?! As far I know the car is on the latest software (built June 2025).

I thought other Octavia owners might have had this problem, but couldn't find anything posted. So here's how I fixed it. The black plastic lowest portion of the rear bumper popped out from being connected to the body-coloured part immediately above, as a result of a light contact with a low barrier when parking. After levering up the tabs, so that they would engage with the slots in the coloured bit, no amount of pushing or thumping on the black bit would get them to re-engage, as the coloured plastic just deflected backwards. I thought I was going to have to take the bumper off, as access to the back of the coloured plastic is hampered by the steel reinforcing strut in the bumper. I managed to do if without by placing a suitable length of stout wood pressed tightly against the black plastic and secured to the ground behind the car, and then rotating an L-shaped steel bar from under the car against the back of the coloured plastic (just under the strut) as each tab position. It gave a very satisfying click when it re-engaged! Hope that helps someone (and it's a reminder to me, in case I ever need to do it again 😁)

I think a bit part of the change in activity comes down to a couple of things . Firstly “social media” so fb groups are “easier” to join and more “modern” than old style bulletin boards. Esp for younger folk who have grown up on fb etc. Secondly, less and less folk are willing or able to work on their own cars so are less likely to look for help or guides on sorting issues themselves that they aren’t finding owners forums anymore. And thirdly, compared to when the forum started, so many more people have their new cars on lease or pcp or even second hand models bought from dealers on finance that then offer service plans and extended warranties into the deal that again - have a problem? Ring the dealer not turn to Google for a diy solution. The above being said, Brisky is still a relatively active forum, compared to some of the others around the net this place is like a London Underground stop at 845am. There is also still a nice steady flow of new members joining to counteract the number of members who sign off one day and don’t come back for… years… 😉

You misunderstood my comment. I'm sure the behaviour you describe is alarming. I was simply saying you shouldn't need the car to tell you the speed limit, can't you turn that part off?

For clarity, that's for air source heat pumps - but effectively, ground source isn't an option for the majority.

In better news it is looking like the Somerset EV battery factory is less than a year away. Due to make half a million batteries a tear, employ thousands of people and help EV production in the UK. Great for SW England which does not have the highest of average wages compared to much of the UK.

What a beauty!

In recent years he has been a big EV advocate. Working with Robert Llewelyn quite bit. Lung cancer horrible way to go. Sorrow for him and family.

And now back towards some sort of normal programming, I don't know if anyone is aware but news coming in that Quentin Willson has died.

Just to add some clarity here, I believe that @lol-lol meant 24,000 btu and not but.

I am looking at a single unit, 24,000 but, 7 kw just for part of downstairs where I work from.cost is £750 and I will fit myself. At the other end of the scale is my brothers house that has heat pump heating. It wax a new biuld so all part of the complete house. Underfloor heating as well as radiator.i got him on Octopus Cosy Tariff so we shared the intro bonus. Big house with a very large lounge combined with kitchen.not perfect as the far part of the room with the patio doors not az warm as it could be but economically. Under flooring heating downstairs. The tech is moving rapidly.

These work on a loop system. So the rear works off the front loom. A break or corrosion on the wire will cause issues. The above states there is a short to ground, so there must be a break somewhere. I would remove the front door card and inspect the whole loom for continuity. Very common, so look at the blocks, and wires going through the door frames and the B pillar with the connector blocks connect together. Example of what happened to mine (extreme)

Gas is a dirty fuel, at least compared to renewable electricity which is thankfully increasingly a larger if not biggest part of our energy consumption. Their is excise duty of gas, think it is about 23p per kg, but gas used for heating is currently exempt from this excise tax. Also, even despite the Russian military action against Ukraine, is still very cheap compared to electricity. I pay 5.71p per jwh for my gas and even my quite cheap night time electricity GO rate is 8.5p per kwh gas is still significantly cheaper and perhaps both the excise duty exception for gas for heating needs phasing out as well as incremental increase on vat for gas should be introduced. To have carrot as well as stick even more incentives for heat pumps. Heat Pumps are magical and can even reverse climate change compared to gas use which is pushing us ever closing to all those bad climate change out comings. Hope the Chancellor does these measures both to affect public choices, help energy transition and raise more revenue for the services we need.

Multiple seemingly unrelated electrical faults often indicate a common cause. This might be things that share a common 12 volt feed. If you imagine the electrical system from the battery positive connector as a tree trunk dividing into branches and then smaller branches you will get the idea. The closer to the battery positive the fault lies, the more things are affected simultaneously. Of equal importance are the earth returns, which is fundamentally the same as the positive supply but working backwards. Slightly more complicated by the use of the metal car body for part of the path. In this case, the closer to the battery negative the fault lies, the more things are affected. I suggest you look again at electrical connections, starting from each of the battery connectors and working outwards. In my experience, earths are more prone to faults than the positive side, due to them being more exposed to weather. Of especial importance is any earth strap from the engine/gearbox to the body. These can sometimes corrode internally within the crimps and look OK but have higher than acceptable resistance. Just cleaning the ends isn't enough, replacement is best. Bear in mind that starter motor current is much larger than for any other electrical item, so it's the first to expose weakness anywhere. Connections in this circuit must have resistance of no more than a couple of thousandths of an ohm. Testing this is way beyond the capabilities of ordinary meters, so just because something "buzzes through" it doesn't mean it's good enough. BCMs and ECUs are designed with a certain amount of protection from faults, so there is a good chance they are OK and the fault is elsewhere. If this is beyond what you are comfortable with, I suggest a specialist auto electrician which someone has personally recommended. Franchised dealers are often out of their depth when logical faultfinding is called for.

Hi all - would like to post my experience resolving an issue with the ski hatch on my MK4 Octavia SE Tech Bought the vehicle second-hand from a car supermarket. Found when I got it home that the ski hatch was inoperable. A small issue, but annoying. It was a slightly different issue to what has already been posted on the forum, so I felt a duty to share my findings. I would like to preface this with I have no idea if this is the correct method, but thought it would be useful to have the photos uploaded for others to see the inner workings. I will describe my steps below for reference, but I think the most important part of the post are the photos (which I could not find whilst researching before doing this). I have also attached some close up photos of some of the parts in case anyone wants to attempt a 3d model for printing. I do not have the time to do this unfortunately. I do not recommend following these steps, but I have described what I took below to try and help someone who might have a similar issue. This is not a tutorial First, I attempted to push harder on the ski hatch handle on both sides. This did nothing. I could see initially that the locking bars on each side had extended far beyond their intended ranges and the handle on the boot side was pushed in and stuck in a fully open position. Coincidentally, the interior side handle fell off, exposing the inner workings of the ski hatch. With the help of an uncomfortable amount of force and a screwdriver, I managed to slide the internal mechanism down, retracting the locking arms on both sides. With the ski hatch now open, the handle was still inoperative. I removed it from the vehicle with the two bolts which were now exposed and was able to inspect properly. For the same reason, I removed the arm rest part, which was possible by removing two bolts on either side. I was unable to remove the bottom cushion, but found this was unnecessary. Using plastic trim removal tools, I managed to separate both sides of the plastic ski-hatch, breaking almost every single one of the clips at the sides 🥲. It is clear this was not meant to be dismantled by someone inexperienced (like me!) There were some particularly difficult clips to undo on the upper and lower surfaces - some large, angled spencer-wells managed to undo these. There were more clips under the bottom cushion which I found were easier to disengage by angling the plastic and pushing. With the internal side of the ski hatch removed, it was now possible to see this issue - I have tried to illustrate this below. After putting these into position, and placing the original spring back on one of the locking arms, the handle was now able to move freely. I lubricated all moving parts with a silicone grease. The internal handle was placed back into position (the crescent shaped plastic supports pop back in. I added some adhesive to prevent them falling out again as it seems to be a common issue) along with its spring (see photos). After function was confirmed, I closed it back up with some silicone to try and make up for the broken clips (whilst still being possible to dismantle if it breaks again). It has been 3 days and all seems well. I am being fairly gentle with it, but it is not something I use frequently. Thanks for reading - if you have any questions or if I have posted this in the wrong section, please let me know. It is my first proper post.

If you were someone who had a house that was 100% electric?

Not 20%, start eith raising just by just 1% and then 1% more each year to nudge people in to moving to heat pumps. Winter fuel allowance should increase accordingly.

Yes it's built into the base.

First impression Dozerman, is the battery fully charged?. Test standing voltage. Should be 12v plus, normally 12.8+ With the engine running, it should go up to 14.5V If you can do the test come back & tell us the results. How old is the battery?

It's probably about closing the "spark gap" https://www.lowcarbonhub.org/p/spark-gap/ But I personally think closing the spark gap should be about re-structure wholesale electricity bidding backend, ensure electricity price isn't tied to gas price, rather than making an essential energy source unaffordable.

Many thanks to all who replied

It has to be a coincidence - Stop/Start has no connection to physical operation of clutch - just the engine restart switch when clutch pedal is pressed. I'd suggest another check of the master and slave cylinders. Next time this fault occurs stay calm and try pumping the clutch pedal to see if that allows gears to be engaged. You say the clutch has been checked mechanically twice - was the gearbox actually removed for these checks?

Took delivery of my new 2025 Kodiaq vRS around a month ago now. Love it! Its got quite a few optional extras on it, as it was originally ordered for one of the staff, but while he was on holiday I asked if I could buy it instead before he had it 😆

The faint fuel light may be due to the cluster connector being loose or corosion. My old 1.9tdi had weird faint warning lights like ABS and DPF. I dont have a DPF so removed cluster and cleaned contacts and replaced. Cured the faint lights. If the column is all loose maybe someone has had the cluster out and not seated it properly. Disconnect battery before removing cluster as imobilizer can stick on. Check the connectors for the column switches and also see if any earths are coroded. Alasdair

Can you please give us more info. Saying it stalls after starting is pretty open ended. maybe describe EXACTLY what happens so we can have half a chance at figuring out the go Does it do it when in P What about in N What about R Is it only when you put it in Drive? Is your foot on the brake? What happens if you don't have your foot on the brake (and handbrake released of course)?

Just installed a 12v USB C and A socket replacing the 12v Cig lighter socket. Was able to reuse the connections to the car, removing the existing and then soldering the new wires from the adaptor and making good. Just tested and all works fine, had to trim a little the back of the unit where the new socket went as the lock ring catch along with trimming down the lock ring also. Also didn't destroy the old one getting it out, there are 2 tabs which you need to press in to get the inner metal socket out from the plastic surround and then you can remove the plastic surround, as this is held in by the metal socket.

Everything works, locks, windows. Sometimes the rear right lock doesn't work and I have to close it manually. The windows sometimes go up and down when I try to lower them, but I am pretty sure it's because of the main window buttons

Fitted today, bling gone!

Hiya, i own an edition 100. Was it just the front badges you were after?

These are all individual letters, not one badge as such. I lost the 'i' off mine when cleaning it but managed to get it glued back on.

The twin USB socket got delivered today. I ended up breaking the plastic on the old 12V socket to remove it from the tray. It was probably a 30 minute job in total if you exclude the 2+ hrs I wasted trying to remove the old 12V socket without damaging it 🤣 @JR RS Did you manage to get the plastic nut in behind the new socket to secure it? The one I had was obstructed so wouldn't spin. The hole in the tray isn't a full circle, it has a flat section, which makes the new socket secure enough without the nut as you have to force it in.

Hi, I recommend that you look at that video https://youtu.be/eTmsq1znWzY