Leaderboard

Just 3 days in to owning my old but gold (65 plate, 123,000miles) Superb having had a Fabia for the last 4 years. Replaced number plates today as they were a bit faded. Looks much smarter now. Also ordered a new DSG shift knob top as the chrome is peeling. And a start stop memory module. Both off Ali express. Will install DSG selector switch at the same time as installing these when they arrive. Only seen the fault pop up once but not since, but will fit the switch anyway. Future plans is a bumper protector from kopacek to cover up some damaged paintwork, and also need to refit my dashcam. Otherwise plan is the keep it as is, change fluids regularly and see how many miles I can put on her.

I would leave it until it starts playing up or acting differently

EA888.3 - NGK ILFER7C8EG EA888.4 - NGK SILFER8C7ES

Clutches rarely fail without some warning beforehand. Often once they show the first sign of slipping you might get another 10K out of it if you are careful

thanks; if anyone interested go to You Tube >> Scottish Car Clan videos, the presenter highlights the way the industry is going and how in time this will mean cars will become uneconomic to repair much quicker than previously, especially given the restrictive practices which push you towards main dealers (and costs) who have the software. It is seems planned obsolescence is on the rise - hardly enviromentally friendly. Cars are now mobile computers and its even more complex and expensive if you go electric or hybrid.

No, just do it when it fails. It will probably last a while longer yet I would do this

I wouldn’t rely on anything chat recommends…

Success!! I managed to get it done with the assistance of my daughter. Thank you very much for all your help. My next step is to work out why the car won’t allow me to become the primary user, but that’s for another day. Thanks again 👍

Just to confuse things, my 2023 Mfr, 24 plate, SE L also has an additional immobilizer/tracker. It is a Meta Trak S5-VTS which was fitted by the dealer as it was their demo car. Apparent Johnson's do this with all their demo cars, so I assume they get a good trade discount. This version with a fob requires the fob (as well as the car key) to be in the car to start it. When I bought the car, they deregistered it. Though, I also called Meta Trak to confirm the change of ownership. They also gate be a price for reactivating, but a Škoda 1.5 petrol, manual SE L is not exactly a target. So I declined. Especially as mentioned the car has an alarm, immobilizer and the phone app is a tracker.

PM sent

OK, 2nd attempt for BSD installation Used radars with index G The result (from the OBD11 perspective) Because the radars are used, they are already encoded and can be seen here: Next step, removing Component Protection... the most crucial step.

Yeah, Sod's Law usually applies. 2016 is a better year than my wife's 2015 I think so hopefully preventative maintenance and regular timely full whole car servicing should help prolong stuff and find sooner what might fail, plenty of threads and posts here on the usual stuff. In some bits the Skoda brand cars are better than the VW brand cars and visa-versa. German car marques generally dropped off end of last century or start of this century but I've never been a fan and favoured the Japanese if I wanted engineering high quality. Good luck.

Do 17" rims actually fit with the vRS discs?

Show us how you installed the stripe on the big trim.. maybe you have a pic?

Thanks, yeah I've done a fair few little maintenance jobs already and have a copy of the owner's manual PDF (and saved links to the workshop manuals etc). I came across that video when looking into how to get the stalks off to retrofit cruise control, this was before we noticed the rear washer issue and I saw your post when searching. So I may end up swapping the stalks for new (old) ones anyway. Cheers.

With my wife's 2015 it wasn't corrosion but the VW grease either run or not done right on assembly, I'm not sure what number fuse it is on my wife's car but I put a photo up, if you have not already seen it here's the notes I made for the work (you can click on link directly below). - If the battery is the original then someone has looked after it so it might be worth continuing to look after it to get even more reliable useful life out of it as these batteries aren't cheap and you enter the world (and debate) of 'coding' the new battery too. As the car is new to you it might be a good idea to fully charge the battery to full (car's happy at about 80%) with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owners Manual' and for the charger. The £15 Lidl or Aldi ones are fine for the job but you can spend £70, £80, £120+ on more fancy and more fashionable ones if you prefer. As you have a 2016 car, and a VW product at that, you will have a few things perhaps to do on the car, plus its a 9 year old car, so a good read of the 'Owner's Manual' can sometimes help to avoid some unnecessary visits to a garage, mechanic, auto-electrician. If you don't have the paper printed version of the 'Owner's Manual' then there's a VWŠkoda site for free pdf downloads. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Good luck, let us know how you get on.

First Skoda 2014 Superb. High miler but so far absolutely delighted! Family members have Skodas should have got one years ago Based in Derby used to do all my own repairs, things have moved on in the last 30 yrs 😂😬😬…..

I’ll get over to have a look 👍 Cheers

Go with what suits your use, comfort and safety, grip / traction rather than fuel use reduction. You know how the car is loaded or not and driven, and where. You can adjust the pressures to suit the weather. Summer in the UK is 2 seasons away.

Opening the fuel tank on a petrol car is quite dangerous, and should only be done if absolutely essential. You are wise to not dare.

Hi All, Thanks for your answers. Indeed, I saw on YouTube people with the very same engine, 1.0 MPI / 60 hp / code CHYE, changing it in a VW Up! On my Fabia, I could not locate it at all. I bought one from the part catalog because I wanted to change it, as every time I buy a second hand car, I like to give it a deep full maintenance. If it is integrated in the full pump, I won't dare to access it ...

VW Group / Skoda recommended CASTROL for many years. Nothing special in the way of oil. Dealerships used QUANTUM, just the same performance in the way of an oil, and now it is Quantum from Fuchs. The Oil to the specification might be cheaper in the price you pay. It is not crap though if to the correct spec.

And if you have some time berofe cold start + electric this kind of hose heaters are common at vag engines here. At superb installation place just close to aux water pump under engibe. About one hour and coolant +40c if its not colder than -15.

ok cheers all... i'll hang on. I use the car for european hols and didn't want it packing up then.

You would only really do it as a precaution if you had the gearbox off for some other reason.

thankyou, it is interesting that it was the independent who mentioned the problem with post 2023 cars

My Fabia mk4 is in extended warranty plan with “free” services that expires at late 2026. Until then all 3 until now lubricant services done at official Skoda dealer. I didn’t want to mess things up so i didn’t intervene at all and let them doing the changes with the Castrol 0w-20 they use (that’s they claim on the invoice). From the next change on (which will be at 10 months from now and around 35-37K km from new), i will be free to use any independent technician and any oil i will choose. Until then i have to decide if it will be a 0w-30, a 5w-30, or a 5w-40

@LeGonz i haven't tested that case. err is reported only in OBD scanners, nothing on the dashboard/multimedia screens

Not experienced this myself but it could be the automatic humidity control. On my car the a/c comes on when the max air to screen button is pressed and the humidity is high. To reduce the humidity in the cabin, the a/c is used to produce cold air to condense out the water vapour to liquid water. The dryer air is then heated to the set temperature before going to the cabin/windows. On days where moisture has "misted up" the windows, manually switching on the a/c and a higher fan speed (without adjusting the air temperature) will very quickly demist the windows.

For comparison, the 1.5 tsi engine somehow warms up to a working temperature of about 90°C at an outside temperature of about 5°C at about 5km. The engine oil warms up later, reaching a temperature above 50°C is reached between about 10km, after about 25km the oil warms up to close to 90°C. This data can be seen on the Instruments cluster: The next step could be to somehow check the inlet and outlet temperatures of the coolant from the car cabin, in the case of hot pipes, the causes could be in the cabin. Then only the causes in the cabin remain, such as sensors, the other is the engine flaps for temperature regulation, control electronics,.... A long time ago I had an experience with the cabin temperature regulation, it worked once, the other time it didn't, with the air conditioning on it started blowing hot, when heating it started blowing cold at some point which would mean a breath of fresh air, hot or cooled. When connecting the vcds diagnostics, I found an error for the flap motor in the car's cabin. For anything more specific, better diagnostics would be needed, sensor temperatures, values and positions of the flap motors,... Certain sensors are also visible in the climate menu on Information Electr., which can be accessed by clicking on "menu" on the climate module. Some basic diagnostic steps can be done using these menus. This picture shows the connections that heat the cabin, if everything is ok one should be hot, the other slightly cooled. The hose connection should be located around the turbine.

20% discount code on Tanya Batteries eBay store (and a few other places) until 2nd December, if anyone else is needing a battery. They don't appear to have put their eBay prices up to skim the discount like a lot of sellers do.

As suggested already the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) brand of tow bars for Skoda at the factory during production or at Skoda dealers is the German manufacturer Westfalia. Westfalia-Automotive | The Original Towbar Inventor Since 1932 You may find you can use the above link to find a supplier in the UK I think the real problem isn't the stockist or supplier, it's the fact that 2023-24 saw Skoda implement SFD on the kamiq . Have a look at this link: VCDS: What is SFD protection? - VAG Coding i bet the main dealer hasn't received the training or equipment to fit the tow bar electronics Just my thoughts, hope this helps you get a straight answer and get your tow bar sorted

Weather was much improved today (and a very bright Moon) 😎

This is my style but i prefer that grill cover also. These wont get that hot that you have to be worry about. Under +10 to +5 just use it. I think these are clever, if yo put heat on, example 20-21c deg inside it wont took all engine heat inside. If you use high blow and high temp that will slow down engine temp. I use allways temp 21-22C deg at winter and we have normal winter here -10 to -20 weeks and months.

Might sound like a daft question but are people driving around with the heating on full or even half full because if so, that'll be why the car's taking time to get up to temperature. The cabin heater is drawing what little heat it can from the coolant that's flowing and therefore the engine will take a lot longer to get up to temperature. Winter/ colder months I always have the heater off for a while (with the heated seats on) until it gets to temperature. In my 1.6TDi Rapid just now it was 6C outside and after five or six kilometers at 60 and 50 Kph it was nice and warm and I swithed the heating on.

Many thanks for that and the other helpful comments. I did speak to one seemingly well informed attendant who said the VAGroup for post 2023 cars has had problems in house coding towbars in so who knows its all a bit confusing but I cant sit waiting indefinitely so wiil get something sorted. (and notify my insurers) Tks again

Similar philosophy with me. Although I have already gone to a higher viscosity oil at the first two services. See above. The dealer did ask questions but happily fitted the oil I requested. I try to buy cars new and then keep them a long time. Oil change every year or sooner if the mileage limit comes first. No oil consumption in my petrol engines . The Diesel will go down a little, although I have never needed to top it up between services. I started to use fully synthetic Mobil F1 oil back in the 80's. Had one Big main dealer at a first service tell me that the Mobil F1 oil I supplied was the wrong oil for the car. They had marked this on the invoice so I had to bring in printed evidence before they reprinted the invoice. Thanks. AG Falco

Oil change even at the lower mileage always makes a noticeable difference. DSG oil was changed at something like 26-27k the first time and then yesterday again at 52k. DSG oil was slightly brown but not bad. Oil change has made a very noticeable difference in smoothness and changes even at the low service interval. It’s due plugs again next year and I think I’ll replace all the coils as a precautionary measure to avoid even a slight miss, at the same time. Can’t do any harm, except to my wallet.

Good to know - you can't go wrong with changing oil more frequently tbh. I've never bothered as we only do about 6/7k a year (March 2021 so over 4.5 years old and just below 30k miles) but given the servicing is done in Sept and the MOT in March, I'll start dialling in an oil change at MOT as well.

Check the tracking and check the suspension. IMHO Octavia's are known for breaking springs (I've had several go on me). Check the springs and the dampers. Please note that the Scout suspension is unique so make sure you have the correct parts for any that you replace.

System update 1989 downloaded OTA (1.5 gb, esim, < 30 min) and installed (< 30 min) + Factory reset. No problems (yet). Solution to no system updates OTA (despite the manual associated with your VIN saying it is a supported function as well as it being one of the available Skoda Connect services for your VIN according to skoda-auto.com, and despite you having fulfilled all the requirements necessary to activate the service as described in the manual): make Skoda update the firmware of your car's OCU to (at least) version 0144.

Thanks All, for your replies. I actually wrote to Thatcham this morning (support.thatcham.com [in internet address bar] -> General Enquiries -> Other) and received a reply: Good Afternoon Nick , I can confirm that your vehicle (reg.) has a Thatcham Approved Category 1 Alarm and Immobiliser, fitted as standard by the manufacturer. Just as mumpsim says! Can't believe it was so difficult to find. Also, to note, insurance company auto-filled "category 2" online when I was completing the form so it appears their system didn't collect the correct information from the Thatcham database. Another concern was that Skoda showroom where I bought the car had no idea. Crazy! Anyway, will now complete insurance process. Hope this post proves useful to others in the future. Best wishes, Nick

If you are using the Skoda App then you also have a tracker built in. That also helps with reducing the premiums, as long as you continue to pay the annual subscription after the free period runs out.

The insurance company has full access to the Thatcham database, all they need to know is that its fitted with the OE Alarm system and not an after market system.

As we've had a hosepipe ban for a few weeks now, and for the foreseeable future, the car's been neglected, and not been washed for ages...ttok it to the local car wash earlier, then finished it off giving a wipedown with Poorboys QD, tyres dressed with Chemical Guys tyre dressing, and plastics renovated with Nanolex trim rejuvenator. A couple of days ago, I used the Gtechniq 2-stage polish and water repellant treatment on the sides and rear window (mine's not got a rear wiper, so was getting fed up with the constantly dirty window!). Even in anonymous "Uber" spec, it's quite a handsome wagon when it's clean...not that I'm biased at all 😅 Have a great weekend all!

Hi Everyone, new here to the forum. Kinda fresh owner of a 2020 Superb IV. Some people might curse me for it, but it was red and I had it wrapped in "Gloss Auratium Green". I wanted a unique car, something green in the line of the Nardo Grey color but not Nardo Grey ;) In my opinion it worked out really well, love how different the car looks during the day versus evening / dusk. Funny how opinions on the color of my car are quite hefty. People either love it or hate it. I've been looking to get some other winter alloys. Any good tips on what OEM rims would look good? Love the current combination of black and chrome on the wheels. I thought the 19 inch Cursa wheels with black/chrome would look good but can't find any examples of Superbs with those rims. (https://originele-velgen.com/originele-skoda-kodiaq-ns7-cursa-565601025ap-ha7-lichtmetalen-velgen-19inch/)

51 Found