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There are those that have no idea what it is like to be working and earning and just keeping their head above water & nit get in debt. They really need to think on about how people are going to put more towards a pension or income after they stop working or are going to get around.

When braking from about 65mph the car starting shaking and over a couple of weeks, it got worse. Below about 40mph it was fine. So I booked in to have it checked, and I took the car round for about 8:30 am, describing what was happening. Less than 2 hour later, I got a phone call from the workshop. I was dreading the worst - a big bill was probably looming. BUT - the call was to say the car was ready and there was no charge! I had had new discs and pads in January this year at 105,000 miles and there was 12 month warranty. (Current mileage about 117,000 miles) So new discs and pads were fitted and the old ones were being sent back for examination and a hopefully a refund. The new pads and discs are fine. So a big round of applause for Discount VW/Audi of Hoylake.

You really do have no idea whatsoever how many people live do you... You are clearly well off and typify the well off socialist... One without a clue, but with a lot to say about stuff they have no experience of...

It's not cynical, it's borderline fraud. Allowing Companies to pay people with Company paid for cars, when one is not needed for business use. To save NI contributions, but the Government benefit from BIK taxes based on a non decreasing value of a company asset, that does reduce in value. It is a controlling measure of the wealthy that they have convinced the middle earner to support to keep their own taxation levels relatively low.

@lol-lol Your influence on the actions of any political party or Government is zero though.

'The Downside'. was / is having to contract to receive less salary / wages. A different contract signed up. Those that can just get by on what they did or do get Gross / Net, they are the ones that are in the Social Divide of those with not only enough income but more than enough that they do not need to have it into their bank every month.

Needs changing by/when they separate/debond. Did mine at 7+ years and 76K miles, and only advise that year. Are there many speed humps near you? No, but can be cheaper if you are paying someone else to change them. I just change both bushes myself. Do you mean low Speed not low revs? Might be drop link noise not suspension arms. Not had to do mine yet. Car now 9+ years and 93K miles. I would use the 5W-30 C3 oil over the 0W-20 C5 oil any day. The 5W-30 C3 oil has better/lower wear characteristics compared to the 0W-20 C5 oil. I can give you the details if you want. Thanks. AG Falco

You have nothing to lose by clearing that fault, if it returns it will get logged again anyway - and repeat until your warranty is LIVE - why not. It might just turn out to be a "ghost" fault or a fuel pressure sensor fault - there will be one on the high pressure fuel rail.

I’m not trawling through pages of bickering again, but… ffs stop the personal insults and keep it between the topic rails so mods don’t need to be told to start banging yer virtual skulls together.. again 👍🏻 It’s meant to discuss the realities of living with an EV… try and keep it there?

No such thing as bad weather just the wrong clothing....

Good god. If she's driving less than a mile to work she should be walking or biking. To do otherwise is downright lazy unless she has a disability that prevents walking.

As I put on here, at least that I've seen or can remember the later Fabias than my wife's don't seem as prone to as many suspension noises and issues. If you have found a good garage stick with them, we found one that unfortunately we've only been using for the last couple of years, they don't work on cars through their lunchtime time or open weekends - imagine trying to explain that to someone under 40 (50?) years of age. When we first went there I mention about if the dampers needed replacing they know all about VW dampers and said they always used better. A 2019 car, particularly from a German marque like VW, will have even more (over) complex and entwined computer systems than a 2015 (thankfully not as bad as later years) so even more important to keep your 12v battery in a good state of charge (which can often mean using an appropriate battery charger maintainer or more frequent changes of expensive battery (and 'coding') and to avoid unnecessary warning lights, messages, issues and problem, visits to the garage or auto-electrician. Plenty of threads and posts about issues from battery in low state of charge and how to avoid this in this forum and others (many from me). As you have the 3-cylinder even more important to do timely spark plug changes or the engine, as well as of course as required engine air filter changes. But of course that only deals with the servicing and maintenance of the relatively unimportant engine. Much more important are brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) safety electrics (reflective number plates). Good luck, if you have a good garage I would suggest you consider their advice on matters.

Yes there are Haldex service options as well as DSG service options. DSG (DQ381 which you’ll have) is 80k miles. It used to be 40k miles for the pre facelift DQ250 (6speed) but this has been changed for the 7speed. There doesn’t seem to be any sensible rationale discussed on here as being a good reason for change and so most people proactively stick to the 40k limit. It’s up to you however. Personally, if you’re approaching 37/38k miles I’d get it done but it’s your choice. Haldex used to be every 3 years but this was shortened to 2 years (well my Dealer always emailed me about it every other year) so that will be due at the same time. There are mileage alternatives which I’m not sure about but mine has done on average 12k miles between those and has always looked like it needed it. Now - the official service manual includes changing the oil but doesn’t include time for removing the pump and cleaning a filtering gauze which is attached to the end of it. Without cleaning, it will still flow oil slowly and contaminate the fresh oil quicker. Advice has always been to look for a local VAG specialist and check they will do that for you. Mine did and took before and after pics.

Hi all, so after delaying and delaying I finally bit the bullet and booked my car in for a Cambelt change and water pump too. The garage I have been using recently, a sole trader, informed me he did not have the special tool required to do it. I found another garage and after visiting and speaking to them, booked it in. I was quoted just over £1000, which I know I would have to spend at some point due to the mileage and age meaning a belt change would be immanent. Done in a day, no issues. And all the problems I had been having are no more. I have left it for a good few weeks incase it did reoccur but so far so good. I am now very confident that my suspicions of it being to do with the electronic shroud part of the water pump was correct. Lets hope I haven’t just jinked it 🤞🏻🙏🏻 Thanks all for you help.

Evening, Can you please put your post into a translation tool please? The primary language for all posts on the forum is English and it upsets the mods and staff having to delete non English messages 😉😂

Got them from Skodaparts.com about £32 delivered hopefully last and assured genuine from them.

Think the R5 is more than the Scenic because I have the son on it. It went down from the ZE50 Zoe, 135 hp, to the 120 hp R5 even though the R5 is just as quick accelerating and handles so much better, think it is a bit less than £600 but son still in his twenties so adds a bit. His Mini insurance is lower with me on it then without. He's insurance went down massively going from the 145 hp to the 182 hp Mini Cooper E. Many factors at play here. Insurance went up big time after Covid and then reigned in earlier this year thankfully. The Scenic is in the low four hundreds I think with just ne on it. A few groups less than the more common 220 hp Scenic as mine is "only" 170 hp but it is actually almost as quick as torque is quite close and mine is lighter. I have got hit with higher cost as j was paying monthly and therefore interest as I choose to put more in to pension that pay outright for xar insurance. This year coming I will just pay the insurance outright upon renewal and save all that interest cost. Worcestershire is on tge low side for insurance loading compared to many places abd my mileage has come right down ie 8k for R5 and 10k for Scenic compared to 25k when j was rushing around trying to prepare companies for BREXIT. Sure my insurance will be less in 2026 due to things like paying all upfront. With LV and the seem to give us public servants and ex public servants along with Boundless ie was CSMA, and been pleased with the except for the post Covid spike but it seems to less this year than was year before. Not heard of it spiking again.

A Sandero is not that cheap now, and a Sandero Stepway is not. I have been looking at Petrol Automatics, new or nearly new,. They are better in and out for me than a Clio. It is a car to replace the Suzuki SX4 i want. Reliable petrol automatic, economic. It might be a Suzuki Swift i get.

Hmm, I'm not so sure about that. I think you will find that ICE cars will be on sale at least up to 2040 now following reports that the EU are just about to announce this groundbreaking news. This will put immense pressure on the UK to follow suit as well. Net zero is beginning to look a bit dubious after all, fancy that. Many key players were absent from COP29, which failed to issue any new rules, and was also accused of being massively anti-green in itself. Remember when this is confirmed where you heard it first, right here. As to the VAG group's poor attempts at EVs, with ID3 and ID4 being the ones you mentioned, you are aware, I hope, that Ford's range of EVs are largely VAG products, I hope?

It cost me £60 for 350 miles using public charging these past few days. Still £45 pending from BP Pulse for the £22 it coat me at Edinburgh Airport 36 hours ago. 61 pence a kWh. Other tariffs 65 & 70 pence a kWh. Running a Diesel can be much cheaper. 350 miles & 50 mpg, 7 gallons. x £6.60 = £46.20

On my Octavia Mk2 all the interior lights are on a single fuse so I would suggest removing that fuse as being a easier option.

There are lots of very good second hand EVs around now and for quite small money. Also increasingly cheap monthly payments on new as the subsidies feed through and for people who need lowish monthly payments abd very low running costs meaning lowish monthly outgoings are options out there. Putting 60 or 70 pounds of diesel or petrol two or three times a month is expensive when although the PCP etc might be a bit higher when one looks at the all in cost EVs are looking better and better as months go by. 2026 will be a pivotal year I reckon as ICE vehicle running costs leap upwards with the rises in fuel duty but EV cost continue to fall with electicity cost coming down and ever cheaper vehicles due to cheaper batteries, more cars getting the full £3750 grant and the Expensive Car Supplement getting pushed much higher.

The lower track control arm rear bushes can easily end up tearing as well as de-bonding due to potholes and maybe speed bumps. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI ended up with a single torn rear mounting bush before it was 3 years old - VW replaced that under warranty, when I found that the other side's rear mounting was tearing a year or so ago, I just replaced the bonded mountings on both sides - because I had the tools to do that and the arms were still otherwise okay, the original bonded mounting that I removed was obviously torn, the already replaced one was badly deformed, ie the centre steel sleeve had separated from the rubber material and had deformed the rubber so that there was now an elliptical hole in the centre.

I "retired" the EFB battery in my wife's 2015 VW Polo yesterday, really it was not (yet) causing me any big problems, but, as I have a 12V DC digital voltmeter thing plugged into the 12V DC Power socket, I could see that it was taking a very long journey before the indicated voltage was dropping down from 14.89V, so, as I had prepared for an early failure back in maybe late 2022, I considered that I'd be very silly if I waited until I had a problem with the original 59Ah EFB, and going by the chatter on many VW Group owners forums, it sounded a lot like that original EFB was slightly undersized and also not going to last much beyond the 7 year mark. So a few years ago, I bought a 70Ah AGM battery and have kept it "topped up" every 3 months while it was waiting to get used. For that car, annoyingly, I also needed to replace the battery tray and the thermal blanket, so now everything has been fitted to the car along with coding the battery management system to suit that change. I have never ever been in the situation where I felt that the battery capacity was really a bit low for that car and the way that we use it, so based on that experience, I'm sure that I've just wasted the extra money buying the next size up battery, tray and thermal blanket. Changing from EFB to AGM was also, for me unnecessary, but it has now been done! That was just my experiences nothing more.

Yes but that is only part of it, they are not pushing EV mandate to remove NOX, it is only a tiny fraction of what it was in the 60s and 70s and is constantly going down all the time with new technology being built into ICE cars all the time. It is CO2 that is behind the EV drive and Net Zero. Also as has been pointed out already, not everyone is in your priveliged position, many can only afford bangers for transportation, so an ICE would be their car of choice.

The Kodiaq MK2 owner's manual lists 215/65R17 6.5Jx17 ET38 wheels for snow chains. 17" wheels will clear the brake calipers on 340x30mm front and 310x22mm rear brake discs. Technical data and specifications (Kodiaq MK2)Permitted rim and tyre combinations for mounting snow chains: Rim dimensions Tyre dimensions 6.5J×17 ET38 215/65R17 Only use snow chains with links no larger than 13 mm, including locks.

Every ICE car is horrendous for emissions in the first mile or so ie as the Cat gets up to temperature. Tests show those emissions are up to 6 or 7 times worse than the lab test emmissions results. On top of that a car with some tens of thousands of miles on the clock, leaking piston rings and it will ve even worse. EVs don't really change their emissions through their lifetime. The new UK EV government grant system rewards local biulding of battery packs and this is why the UK government is rewarding BMW MINI Leipzig factory, Nissan at Sunderland and Renault's Northern France ElectriCity site for their green production techniques clustering battery and car production together. I have had horror stories with second hand out of warranty ICE cars, simple thermostat problem costing hundreds of pounds, no thank you. EV simplicity and reliability. Worth putting up with the less range for all the benefits of massively lower running costs, fast warm ups, instant acceleration etc.

Thanks for your considered and detailed reply. We’ve just moved house (and counties!) so finding my feet with a new garage.

Thanks nta16. Fortunately I haven’t had the shock absorber misting advisory yet… but from your experience it sounds as though I should not be surprised if I do. Reading more of other threads on here, sounds like the 0w20 might be something to bring emissions down so I won’t query the oil my new garage has chosen to use and trust that they know better than me!

To answer your thread title - my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 needed it's front dampers changing at 6 years old, 41k-miles MoT, the Dealership resourced and fitted dampers lasted 11 months! until the next MoT and were reported as "leaking" which the Dealership and subsequent garage call "misting" and only an Advisory rather than Fail since. I hope the change of dampers would stop the clonking noise from the underside - it didn't. Other Fabia Mk3 owners with cars of a similar age have tried to get rid of sounds from the underside by changing many parts but the sound remains, others have been more lucky. I can't remember seeing many posts here about this with 2019 Fabias though. The clonk on my wife's car is very loud when it's verry cold, I don't drive the car often so although I know the sound and it really annoys me last winter it really surprised me when it was very cold, it got less loud as the weather and car had warmed for the return journey. My wife has the radio on, I generally don't. So it depends on what the MoT tester might have told you about his advisory because I've obviously had my wife's Fabia suspension checked for safety and wear every check and no concerns. Loads of posts and threads on Briskoda about the 1.0 TSI (3-cylinder) engine and debate about using 0w-20 or 5w-30 oil my take is always use the best quality oil you can and worry less about the multigrade ("weight") numbers, some Dealerships, garages and mechanics may not even use what they list on their invoices anyway.

Salary sacrifice is not designed for the employee to buy a car. The scheme is set up to benefit the employer They can effectively pay lower wages, pretend the car is part of those wages, claim the costs of the car against business expense and the government can take tax from the lower wage off the employee. Employee does not end up owning a car.

I refer to my original posting re heated mirrors. I'm pleased to report I've solved the issue. I normaly drive in Eco mode, so I tried to apply a bit of Czech logic. Eco is about saving, so why not battery saving. The mirror heaters don't work when in Eco mode - they do work perfectly in all other modes - Doh !!!

WOW OKEY BRO thank you i will take a look! but i want to take 12v from doors, do you know where to get it?

We don't know it yet. My Ottocast is fully packed, it's basically an Android mini computer. Mini Cube seems to be wireless dongle for AA only. Could work like any other. Let us know, when arrives.

Hi, Sorry only remembered about this message now! From what I remember kufatec who I got the loom from had wiring instructions with the loom. The biggest difference you’ll face is rather than a CECM with many plugs you’ll have a BCM with three large plugs from memory. I think I may have access to diagrams but would need to check and see. The VRS models have plenty changes between 2007-2013. If you can find a set with the heated elements already in them it’s more than half the battle won. Wiring is more About routing the cabling and patching it into the correct places. I got my loom from Kufatec. The diagrams I think are available at elsawin but I do vaguely remember a pdf being available after purchasing the Kufatec loom. From what I remember there are two earth pig tails, a 30 amp supply, 15 amp switched ignition, CECM/BCM signal wire connection, and 4 Cables going to the climate control unit (control left and right seats, regulator etc.

belated update: yes that is the Lambda Sensor. Need to remove the air pipes, and the throttle body (requires M10 spline/triple square socket) - No need to disconnect D type connector as enough cable length to just move TB out of the way. Then using a crows-foot type o2 socket, it came out easily.

It's needs to b the "high" version tail light - both inner & outter lights, which has a different wiring harness for the dynamic sweeping of the indicator. Then yes, u need to code/enable it.

Bit of an update. The nearside reversing light wasn't working again and the 'Check Reversing Light' message was displayed along with the Triangle - what I now refer to as the 'Bermuda Triangle'. A quick tap on the light unit and the reversing light comes back on. So light of replies received I decided to remove the light unit and examine the bulbs and contacts. First though a few hints and tips regarding the cluster removal. The light unit is held by two Torx head screws on one side, on the other, outer, side where the unit meets the rear wing its a push fit over two studs, a plastic trim removal blade is required to prise the unit off the studs. The cable that plugs into the socket on the backplate backplate does not have enough slack to allow the plug to be removed so the backplate has to be unclipped. There are 4 or 5 clips that all have to be released. Being plastic care has to be taken not to snap them off. I found pressing the backplate onto the unit body by each clip would reduce the pressure on the clip which made it easier to release, work round each clip in turn and its released. There are two small bulbs that are outside the backplate, they both twist 90 degrees to release and pull out. The plug on the cable can be released by pressing the side by the red plastic which will release the clip. The contacts were not corroded, the only thing I did notice was that the reversing bulb was not as securely held as all the other bulbs. After removing and refitting the bulb a number of times I come to the conclusion that it needed to be inserted firmly and twisted into position until it located in an indent to hold the little pins on the body of the bulb. Doing this the bulb seemed secure. Put it all back together and everything is now working as it should - it remains to be seen for how long though......I smeared some Silicone grease over each of the clips on the backplate and their mating points on the light body - it makes it easier to slide on and off.

I've contacted Skoka. Apparently, the red icon is a musical note or station indicator. But why they colour it red for warning/danger is anyone's guess! Cheers Nigel

Just had stiffen Engine and Gearbox mounts install along with TTS Aluminimum LCA's, the front end has certainly livened up now! 😁 Also a ground wiring kit to replace the individual wires on the coilpack bolt.

I like that garage.... a total mess!!! I am ahead of you - I've got a thin line where you can cross from one end to another ... some sort of 'Maginot Line' surrounded by ... minefields of junk 😁 I have started efforts to clean up, though - I have the ambitious plan to make the area usable for a car again, enter a small EV there and be able to charge it on home electricity.... someday! By then perhaps we will be already on hydrogen 🤣

All check your e-mails. @VLADO1106 in AMundsen maps are stored on SD, there are NOT loaded into any internal memory, so just inserting SD with unpacked maps should be enough. @WesternWalrus @Mriggs yes, it's possible to upgrade ANY MIB STD2 ZR unit, both with and without NAV, running at least 02xx software, to 0480. It's NOT possible to upgrade units with 01xx firmware to 0480 (or any other than 01xx). The key is MIB STD2 TOOLBOX. Units with OEM sat nav (Amundsen) can be done from SD. Units without OEM SAT NAV (Bolero) must be soldered (not possible to make it from SD). In both Amundsen and Bolero it's required to turn developer mode ON with some diagnostics / programming tools like VCDS, OBD Eleven, Vag Can Pro, ODIS, VC Tool. And one more comment - units 5Q0035819x, 565035819, 565035820 and 5Q0035820x (x - any letter A, B or C) do NOT support SmartLink. Units 5Q0035819 and 5Q0035820 support MIrrorLink only which is obsolete and abandoned.

If Economy is a concern yes. Performance wise they are close (Midrange 320NM vs 350NM) but economy wise the 190 was designed for economy with the earlier Gen3B version running the Budack Cycle and the later Gen4 version higher compression.

So i can install toolbox and after thart i can install MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T over MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T?

A quick update to let you all know how this ended. We fitted a new wiper motor on Saturday and everything now works as it should. A bit of a so and so to change as you've got to undo the detachable part of the bulkhead to get enough clearance to remove the motor. We didn't undo it completely as it's covered in wires, pipes and sound deadening. We just removed the upper bolts and lent on it a bit to get some clearance. We still had to strip the linkage off in situ and extract it in bits, then assemble the new one inside the scuttle, but we got it done in the end and the wipers now work perfectly. I suspect the wiper motor is one of the first things that's bolted to the car when it's built. Last bit of useful info; the bolts holding the bulkhead in are T30. not T25 as per a you tube video of someone with a similar problem. Don't want to risk rounding them off and making the job even more difficult, Many thanks to you all for the help and support.

Good morning - this is my current firmware. I am now getting error code '01555 - Check Software Version Management', which I try to reset, but it immediately comes back on next scan. Any suggestions or updated firmware, greatly appreciated

Just an update for anyone tackling this. I upgraded my Blackvue dash cam for a new model, unfortunately the new camera needed both ignition +ve and perm +ve connections, so out with the old cable and in with the new. Two piggy back fuses. Ignition +ve - Fuse 47 (Rear Window Wiper) Permanent +ve - Fuse 40 (12-volt Power Outlets) Hope this helps someone.

This is my take, feel free to correct any mistakes or misunderstandings I've made I couldn't find anything Europe EA888 Gen 3b specific but I did find "eSelf-Study Program 920243" for NAR EA888 Gen3 engines which is where the below pictures etc are from. In regards to the "oil circuit", ignoring the usual pressure valves, the only obvious change in oil distribution I can see is for piston cooling using 18 and 19: Which are activated as per this schema suggesting it's only for fuel economy rather than decreased warm-up time: The coolant circuit is a completely different beast and that definitely changes flow paths depending on temperature. There are too many modes to explain in detail but as @flybynite mentioned, it does use the "oil cooler in reverse" to warm up the oil: This doesn't mean reversing the oil or coolant flow as @J.R. understood it. Rather that the "oil cooler" heat exchange direction is reversed to normal so it's being used as an "oil heater". The fluid flow direction through the "oil cooler" haven't actually changed, just the function

Yes both sockets need fuses. The supplied one is for the dashcam, and you put the one you remove from the fusebox #34 in the empty piggyback slot to power the original circuit.