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Most members of this site are not representative of the car driving population of the UK, which you seem to keep forgetting. Most UK residents do not have solar on their homes, and even less have solar with batteries. A significant proportion do not have driveways so cannot be sure of parking within a cable reach of their home. Taking all these factors into account there is a large percentage who will be dependent on public chargers, so the cost and UK wide availability of public EV charging is what is limiting EV take up.

The energy requirements in the UK, gas, electricity, fuels for transportation etc is for industry, commerce as much as domestic accommodations. For water & sewage and upcoming is all the electricity Data Centres will require. These Small Nuclear Modular plants that are getting so much public money need building PDQ. There is a lot of steel needing imported, and the technical staff will be needing to come from someplace & into the UK to be building stuff, including erecting pylons. What a shambles the UK is really as far as energy security and training / apprenticeships and people skilled in the jobs needing done. Oil & Gas offshore workers and car workers seem not to be transitioning into jobs that pay less than they have grown used to.

@lol-lol when is it going to sink in with you that more than half the drivers of vehicles do not or will not have Home charging available & will always require public / shared charging which presently can be 10 times more expensive then 'Cheap tariff' home charging. & maybe half the passenger vehicles on the roads are not Company / works vehicles.

11 years is really good going for a battery and was clearly at the end of its life. Mine failed at about 7 when it just started the car one morning at -2°C. I went straight away for a replacement new one from a nearby ATS. It seemed expensive but then it was a big battery for a diesel auto with stop-start. It's been first class. 🤞🏻

This picture is bonkers - how on earth they suggest DQ381 is the only one that can do double the miles. It just makes VAG look shady like they’re looking for replacement costs because there is no logic to it on any of the basic info. Even the DQ500 needs 40k changes and that’s meant to be for higher power right?!

Well, being a tech idiot, I got our lovely local garage to order a battery and come out the 150 metres & fit it. Good job they did, because I was just about to wreck the nearside front door handle trying to get to a non-existent real lock. Turns out that (against what I had been told) the real lock is where it ought to be - in the driver's side under the little clip-on cover. Then of course we still couldn't open the passenger door to undo the bonnet lever... but it's just about possible to open it with the door shut. Just. New battery installed, and everything sprang back to life. Phew.

Same here. Battery was failing and eventually dash lit up with loads of clicking. If you battery is in good condition then I would start with cleaning terminals and then check earths for corosion/damage. If its a bad earth/earths then the connection may be heating up when trying to start and eventually making contact hence it staring after 15mins. You could try another battery to rule it out. Alasdair

Battery degradation is usually a slow process - sulphation, plate material loss, etc - but can gradually build up to the point where a sudden failure occurs, especially with a sudden change in ambient temperatures.

Many, apparently random, fault indications is a very common sign that the battery voltage is too low.

You need a device such as VCDS to put the brakes into ‘service position’ before you change them.

I had to recharge or jump-start my battery several times over a period of four months before the mechanics officially declared it dead. Each time they connected their diagnostic tool, the battery appeared to be within normal limits. However, I had just come from a Focus 4, which was a heavy battery consumer (apparently due to a telemetry module that was too talkative and drained it, a fault never acknowledged by Ford). So I knew what a low battery was and its symptoms.

Early MIB3 units could only do wireless CarPlay and wired Android Auto. MiB3 unit since then can do wireless BOTH CarPlay and Android Auto. MIB2 and MIB2.5 units can never do wireless - hence they need dongles like AAWireless or OttoCast.

Batterys do die. Typically, 7-8 years on an original Skoda battery is fairly good going. I hope a 096 AFM rated at 70Ah battery will fix things for you. Don't forget to code in the battery!

The fact that fuse 22 is sometimes a source of 12V, but also sometimes a 0V connection will be unexpected by anyone without access to the circuit diagrams.

Wind has hit 24 GWs production and that records is being broken almost every month with all the new turbines coming on line. More and more solar with solar farms and hone generation is happening More battery storage sites are being built and home storage continues to grow. UK does need projects lije the Great Glen Hydro project and tidal schemes in the Bristol Channel and Western Isles, Orkney etc for a good reliable source of power as well as more country to country interconnectors. Some on this site are already largely self reliant for powet most of the year, it is this depth of winter that id tge only hard bit between i can generate some power here near the winter solstice if ther is a bit of sun shine then download the rest i need from the cheap wind and nuclear base load where energy companies can still make a profit at 7p a kwh and hopefully that will near half in April. When retired I might give Octopus Agile a go and get more of the free stuff. We are all waiting to see these new solar panels with double the efficiency and in combo with yet more wind, some tidal and pump storage no gas or oil will be needed hardly ever and UK can be net zero for carbon.

A year odd after it hit 37K it's back!

Check that other fuse first, might save you any such work.

Nice one, cheers. I believe the relays are difficult to get to due to their location (as you posted above), which could explain why this bodge has been carried out in the first place. Saves the cost and effort of swapping the relay, at the penalty of losing the rear washer. But passes an MOT...

Yep. Wild guess that the relay has malfunctioned, and the subsequent bodgery has caused the observed behaviours and faults. Please also check fuse 31 (7.5 Amp rated), which feeds the coil of the washer relay (amongst other things),

45% in the UK, or the EU / Europe. Personally i think that is total rubbish as far as people able to park their car / van at their home. Time will tell just how things go. One thing is pretty certain and that is the UK not having Energy Security be that for liquid fuels & gas requiring importation and also electricity into the UK. England might be decades before it can generate it's own needs.

The green/white wire marked B622 on left of previous diagram, can be either floating (not connected to anything), 12V or 0V depending on stalk control position. Its origin is shown in the previous page of the diagram.

I think this is the diagram then, with the rectangular box containing 8 coming from fuse 22. So there's a relay involved. V59 is the washer pump. Guessing the green violet wire is the one that's been replaced by a switched 12V from the G65 loom section.

[nothing 4F*] 4K3 Central locking w/ radio remote control, interior controls and SAFELOCK 4KC Side and rear windows in heat-insulating glass 4L2 Breakaway interior rearview mirror, dimming 4LC Controls for radio and telephone 6K2 Forward collision warning incl. autonomous emergency braking, without adaptive cruise control 6KJ Radiator grille with chrome molding

Yes, low pressure fault is probably just pointing to low refrigerant level. See my last reply regarding PR codes, above please.

There needs to be more that 10 times as many built and on the roads be that by 2035 or 2040 & there is the issue that the vehicle manufacturers are very much aware of. That and people wanting to own them.

OBD11 or Carista would be cheaper

Just a thought on tracing the problem. Our Indy pulled the rocker cover and ran up the engine, at which point we could clearly hear the misfire as a result of the worn cam lobe. I thought I'd be able to see the wear on the lobe but it was not possible, and only verified when the camshaft was off and miked up.

I have to take it in where they have the gear to do that.

Batteries can fail two different ways. Either by low cranking ability( the battery will have loads of reserve capacity) or low reserve capacity( the battery will have loads of cranking ability) If it’s the latter testers might give the battery a clean bill of health. The problem arises when you sit in the car listening to the radio for 15 mins and it won’t start.

Norway, also the home of Trolls is keeping it's Lithium & cobalt for future generations. Cornwall just needs to be getting on with it then. Or maybe a better idea is waiting until the value is much higher.

Had exactly the same rattle in my boot on my 2024 1.5 SE L Karoq, stripped the rear end and could not find anything. Then found this post moved the bump stops out 2 sections and fixed no more rattles !

Hi, at 06:00 I drove to Bridgwater from 6 miles the other side of Minehead yesterday morning it was around 7* and pouring with rain, I was following a Hinckley point bus most of the way, if anyone knows this road they will understand the avg speed as it is pretty windy, the results are below, I’m more than happy with the mpg we’ve been getting since we bought it new, it’s a mk4 Skoda Fabia 95 TSI SE Comfort , cheers Paul

It could! In any case, on mine it looked like a Christmas tree. And when I started it up, it made lots of clicking noises.

Agree with what @Warrior193 states above Your video shows these multiple errors as the voltage is too low for the modules to communicate effectively

You may need to remove the undertray first - but any wiring connection or earth-strap connected to engine or ancillaries (starter motor, alternator) - especially heavy-current connections. Also suggest testing battery voltage while engine is being cranked-over.

cold or broken solder joints on the micro switches of the tailgate lock

Skoda approved wheel sizes (for Scala) 195/65R15 6Jx15 ET35 (winter tyre size, ie. approved by Skoda for snow chains) (only available as a steel rim) 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 (winter tyre size, ie. approved by Skoda for snow chains) (both steel and alloy rims are available in the 6Jx16 ET35 specification) 205/55R16 6Jx16 ET38 (only alloy rims come with the ET38 offset) 205/55R16 6Jx16 ET40 (only steel rims come with the ET40 offset) 205/50R17 6.5Jx17 ET40 (alloy rims only) 205/45R18 7Jx18 ET39 (alloy rims only) Interesting non-standard 15" wheel option 205/60R15 6Jx15 ET38 (this specification rim is from the Fabia MK3) (steel and alloy rims are available in the 6Jx15 ET38 specification. 6Jx15 ET38 alloy rims (from Fabia MK3) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3AFabia%2BIII%2B%25282014%252B%2529%3ArimDiameter%3A15%2522&text=# The most sensible option is probaby the standard 205/55R16 6Jx16 ET38/ET40. 205/55R16 is the most common car tyre size in Europe. The higher 60 profile (more sidewall height) 205/60R15 is a standard tyre size on the Octavia MK1, but is more expensive than 205/55R16 and less common. In general with all other things being equal, the more sidewall height the better the ride. 15" rims will clear the front brake calipers on all Scalas. For example, Skoda approves 195/65R15 6Jx15 ET35 (winter tyre size that can be used with snow chains) for all Scalas. Sidewall height 205/50R17 102.50mm 205/55R16 112.75mm (10% more sidewall height compared to 205/50R17) 205/60R15 123.00mm (20% more sidewall height compared to 205/50R17) Outside diameter of tyres 205/60R15 627.0mm (non-standard tyre size) 205/55R16 631.9mm 195/65R15 634.5mm 205/50R17 636.8mm 195/60R16 640.4mm 205/45R18 641.7mm

Great you've got it fixed, thanks for reporting back.

It appears your battery is low/not being charged sufficiently, I'm replacing my car battery as I'm seeing a few issues and a couple of non start's in these long cold winter nights

Hyper Green vRS on 21’s you say?

All you can do is: Check the setting if you have any control to tell the car if it's loaded or not. Park on a flat surface and mark the position of the dipped beams on a wall. Then turn on main beam and mark those positions. You should be able to see the dipped beam is clearly dipped. If you think the dip is misaligned or not working then it's a trip to the dealer. Note: LED lights are causing a lot of complaints from those who still don't have LED's

Sadly No. ODB11 and other devices don’t have access to safety mandated systems currently. I don’t think that they ever will. It’s a legal requirement to have the systems, and my understanding is that Thay have to be available every time you switch the car on. That way if you have an accident after disabling a system that could otherwise be avoided by the car. Your choice makes you liable for a traffic offence.

There is specific DSG oil you have to use for the service and there is also a filter that should be replaced. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjxAQsePR7Q

I do have few Lin converters in EU, almost twice cheaper then from cars-equipment

Yes, Battery, short run to fuse, then into the car then into a fuse block (which will be hidden passenger side of car) to split into 2 cables for 2 small amps under seats.

People, more ordinary drivers, will want to drive them as the running costs fall well below that of ICE cars. This is achieved by ICE car fuel rising faster than inflation, pension and wage inflation m, whilst EVs just gets cheaper abd cheaper to buy, PCP etc and cheaper to rub with cheaper energy costs. Octopus just confirmed that £150, average, reduction in energy costs will be passed to customers with fixed deals too and if on the unit cost, rather than standing charge as initially mentioned then EV users could see their energy costs dmdrop by £300 a year plus, pretty much negating the 3p a mile upcoming charge. We need to see Nissan to do well at Washington Sunderland but also JLR to pivot to EVs which they say they are doing. Hopefully Toyota at Burniston too. Whilst the EU, it appears, will drop the 2030- 2035 ICE ban the CO2 targets, and penalties are looking like being so stringent ie low CO2, that the ICE hybrids will be more like the BMW i3 with range extender or one of the Fiats tgat also had about a 600cc twin cylinder engine, maybe it might be a single cylinder engine of about 250-350 Cc and by then petrol will be about £2 a litre by extrapolation ? Certainly will give engineers a challenge to make vehicles with CO2 of say 75 gm/ km, then 50, the. 25, then 10 or less, in Real World conditions too not just in a lab. Possible but difficult.

I don't understand either, why only D250 and DQ500 need to have oil filter replaced, while all others don't. Do other ones have no filter? I've seen several 'how to' on YT to replace DSG oil on DG381, and as far as I can remember, they replaced the oil filter too. The principe, is very similar to DQ250, except there are 2 drain holes.