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Greeting from north! Both Superbs resting in garage for a while. Outside temperature is about -30C during nights. Older one is 2011 2.0 tdi/dsg/Elegance which I bought new and newer is 2.0 tdi/dsg/4mo L&K with every option available at that time. I should sell the older. It has been standing now one year without usage...

It is hugely important. As an example, my father had an incorrectly coded the battery on his 2011 A3. For the next year, we had random issues - intermittent no horn, wipers, central locking or cruise control. After taking everything apart, we finally figured out it was because the battery had been coded in wrong. First and last time we went to Halfords. The car is smart. Very smart. It needs to know what is happening with the battery!

You can unlock the gateway using ODBEleven.

Yup - you're in good company Zaph. Easy mistake that many of us won't admit to Gaz

If you have steel rims and fit snow chains, the owner's manual says remove the wheel trims before fitting snow chains. So as removing wheel trims from steel rims isn't a modification, I would have thought that removing wheel trims from alloy rims would also not be a modification.

Yep - 'if it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer', was a saying when I was an engineer in the military, although, reality was slightly different! 😄

Maybe ten to twenty pounds rather than £30. 45 kwh is not a common size. There are some cars round the 40 kwh, both my 5 is and also our Mini Cooper E but they are cars for local transportation and when we do journeys of 200, 250, 300, 350 mile round trips we take the Scenic. My Scenic only has a 60/65 kwh battery and the more popular variant has a 87 / 92 kwh battery and now the price is similar to the 60 kwh version i bought 18 months ago. Either Scenic, mid sized somewhere between a hatchback and a SUV, European Car of the Year 2024, could do the 167 miles London to Sheffield and either have about 25% or 45% of the battery left. Cost about £3. On the way home both cars would need a partial top up. In my 60 kwh nominal battery size I would drive about an hour so battery warm to accept a charge and to up about 20 kwh to get me the rest of the way. Cost more like £20 but if I spent a few more thousand and got the 87 / 92 kwh battery, or bought now, just probably would only need about 10 kwh or just under £10, plus the original £3, to complete the journey. Quite a bit less than £30. One choose to cruise at a true 65 or 60 rather than true 70 mph and the efficiency is much better in miles per kwh and less public charging and therefore cost. Still think I am only spending about 3p per mile including my very occasional public charges, like many EV drivers it is high 90% home charging. I do plan A road, bypass etc routes rather than just take the longer motorway routes. Certainly will be doing even more of this if / when pay per mile comes in. Sorry in advance to town and village dwellers if it increases traffic through those places.

As Bruce McLaren was saying ''hit it'' (when something refuse to fit).

If you have ObdEleven It is possible to reset the learned values for the battery (and thus the rSoH) without having to install a new battery (cost approx. €350-500). It is suspected that VW Group does nothing different in the TPI. Instructions for OBD11 Pro: 1. Open the hood and leave the driver's door open 2. Connect the OBD11 dongle to the OBD port in the driver's side footwell + start the software. 3. Select control unit 75 / Telematic 4. Check error code: B1916F2 / Backup Battery critical 5. Live data: If Backup_Battery_rSoH <= 50%, then the SOS message is active on the display and the LED is red. 6. Basic settings: Activate the emergency call battery history reset (press the green checkmark). OBD11 may not provide any confirmation of the reset. Simply go back and complete the remaining steps. 7. Error memory: Delete error B1916F2 (press and hold the trash can icon) 8. Live data: Request Backup_Battery_rSoH: 100% 9. Ignition off / Ignition on (Warning message is now gone and the status is green again) Enyoj ...

Be sure to do a back up before you try anything. Follow instructions carefully. If unsure, ask. And don't use one click apps, well I don't anyway, as they leave no traceable path of anything they change. These things don't perform miracles, but they do unlock features in your car that, although should be unlocked as standard, aren't.

My understanding is that, when the Fabia Mk4 was first marketed in the UK, when ordering a new car there was the option (for about £200) to specify disc rear brakes for Fabia models that had drum rear brakes as part of their standard specification. This had been an inexpensive option for many Skoda models in the past, but it was soon dropped from the Fabia Mk4UK range. This long 2024 forum thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/523468-does-the-15-tsi-have-rear-disc-brakes/ discussed whether Fabia Mk4 cars that had the 1.5litre motor (which, at that time, was only the Monte Carlo model) had disc rear brakes as standard and it was eventually established that this was indeed the case. Nowadays most models (not just Monte Carlo and 130) in the UK Fabia Mk4 range can be specified with either a 1.5litre motor or a 1.0litre motor and the present position is that, if ANY UK-marketed Fabia Mk4 (irrespective of its model) has a 1.5litre motor, then it will have disc rear brakes as part of its standard specification. (As the Mk4 range is relatively new and fitting a drum-to-disc conversion kit would invalidate the Skoda warranty, I doubt anyone will have done this yet.)

I have retired from being a mechanic of to many years, however I remember the sludge, black death, that would build up in CVH engines in the Ford cars unless they ran very hot and travelled many miles each day, along with using the very best oil and changing the oil before the suggested service interval I rebuilt many an engine and was never a great lover of engine flush, although I do understand that it was used to break down the type of carbon/oil deposit you are seeing with your engine i personally would recomend Valvoline restore and protect or a similar product to gently break down the sludge i would maybe change the oil and filter every two or three thousand miles for the next three oil services I have no links with Valvoline but wish such a product had been around in the 1980s and 1990s Hope this helps you

We've been here recently... Crankshaft Sensor 2.5V - Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007) - BRISKODA

Download link sent in PM. You will need to re-install maps after upgrade.

I actually found this in a recent post here - Instead of taking right front wheel out to access the crankshaft pulley nut and use a wrench to rotate the crankshaft, we can just jack up the right front side of the car till the wheel is up in the air, engage 5th speed and rotate the wheel by hand to rotate the crankshaft. So it's not a method to 'reach the overlap', it's an easier method to rotate the crankshaft.

Almost certainly the easiest way would be to remove the spark plugs and rotate engine using the alternator / Aux. belt.

Hi! Owner of a white Skoda Yeti 2.0 TDi 4x4 L&K 2014 and a grey Skoda Octavia 2019. love them ❤️

I think there's a later type with a hall effect crank sensor which has 5V supply, but I think this one is probably a variable reluctance type where 2.5V may well be correct.

Sure I saw a post about a low mileage VW engine where the oil pump belt had snapped. No idea what engine it was, hence thought I would ask.

It’s the same pedals for the vRS, GTI, S3, R, Cupra, Formentor, T-Roc R, Macan, 718, S4, etc, etc Basically, any nice VAG car (excluding really nice stuff) uses the same metal pedals. Rather interestingly, they come standard on budget cars like the vRS and Cupra, but not on a Macan GTS, for example.

Ah no, sorry. Just normal cranking with a healthy battery :)

Thanks. I'll give it a go. The battery good though and spins the engine like mad.

I also have never seen any reference to this drive belt failing. I know, never say never! ☹️

If its cranking and no codes and no tacho movement then it may be a bad connection/cable to crank sensor or perhaps either the crank or cam sensor you replaced is faulty. Check wiring for continuity and connection from the crank sensor first as I have read they can fail/wiring probs and not create code. Alasdair

@lol-lol I get your point about there being more trailers, but the point there is you just don't see many tractor units from the companies I listed hauling other people's trailers. Yes, I have seen the odd one or two here or there of, say, Turner's tractors hauling trailers with other names on them, but very few, so I think it is reasonable to assume that the majority of the HGVs listed as registered in the UK are for complete units, not just tractors with trailers making up the majority. Don't forget that a trailer has no power unit, so it is NOT registered, and from what I have seen and learnt from my time when I was a truck driver for a number of years, there will be significantly more trailers than trucks. When trucks arrive at a warehouse/factory, etc., with a trailer full for that customer, it is highly likely the driver will back the trailer to a loading bay and drop it, then pick another trailer, either empty or maybe full of new products produced at the factory, etc., and then transport them to their destination. And then that process starts all over again and again. When a truck is not moving, it is not earning, and with many transport companies, especially those with regular contracts moving stuff between factories and distribution centres, etc., it will very much be a 24/7 operation with drivers on shift patterns and changing over when a truck rolls into one of those centres. Anyone who watched the TV series about Eddie Stobart truckers will have seen that in operation. Now with a diesel, maybe 20 to 30 minutes of refuelling, and then that tractor could leave the complex with a fresh driver at the wheel and a new trailer attached. A 22 or 25 kW charger would stick in the battery in a short time. What, 10 or 15 miles of range? They will have to go with the largest chargers available, and that is where your massive load on the grid will come from. Don't forget that currently the grid struggles at times, and we only have currently a low percentage of electric cars on the road, and at times those with V2G capability are selling some of their cars' power back to the grid to help out. When you start getting HGV trucks demanding chargers of 350 kW and higher to keep trucks moving as much as possible, the grid will severely stretched. You say yourself that you was disappointed to see chargers at Exeter and Baldock were only 350 kW and hopeful of seeing 500 kW and even 1 MW arriving in the 12 months. So that will make matters even worse, not better.

I haven't seen any reference of maintenance / replacement for this oil pump belt - I believe it is a 'For Life' item. Clearly, failure of this belt would result in complete loss of oil pressure and any such pressure warning should be acted on by immediately shutting down the engine and arranging recovery.

After some shipping delays for the part, and a 2 week holiday of my own, I've finally fitted the replacement hose. The original part attached to the car was a bit different, being made of a short clamped flexible hose portion, whereas the new part is one single part for the whole thing. The trickiest part was breaking the single-use clips off the old part, plus also getting the new part to push in to the back wall of the engine compartment which needed a bit of grease first. The brakes certainly seem to actually have an effect with much less effort on the pedal itself, so I assume that's a good sign. Didn't notice any difference in engine idle which I saw some others mention. I've not tried it on the road yet as my car's blocked in by my parents' at the moment, but I might need to get used to the brakes again now. Thanks for everyone's help.

@joek666 find s good independent DSG specialist. The one I used strip and rebuild them, upgrade components for racing etc, they see a lot of DSG gearboxes and I feel have a much better understanding of them than a lot the dealers who aren’t in a position to strip and rebuild DSG boxes.

Glad ypu got it sorted mate.

I've not seen inside the boot of a PHEV, but my understanding is that the space normally occupied by a spare wheel instead contains the hybrid battery. In other words, there is no dedicated well for a spare wheel (spacesaver or otherwise) to sit. The designer's intention in cars like these would be that you phone your breakdown service provider (AA, RAC, Green Flag etc.) and borrow a wheel for the remainder of your journey. This might happen once every 50,000 miles (80,000 km) on average. If you're desperate to have a spare wheel to be used in the event of getting a puncture, you'd need to carry it in the boot, and perhaps make something yourself to hold it securely and cleanly. The discussion above is about which spacesaver wheel and tyre would fit in the limited space under the boot's floor of "regular" (not PHEV) Superbs. If you were to carry a spare wheel in your boot, you wouldn't have this limitation, you could carry a full-size wheel and tyre if you wished. Hope that helps @Badelhas

Thanks @travs , you answered my next question! Not that the rears need replacing yet, but good to know this too. Cheers, Nick

You should have rejected the car and got them to order you another.

Vibrations in the cabinet also knock on putting to r. My recommendation to you if you want to replace those put only the original ones.

Only the 280bhp has 340mm vented fronts and 310mm vented rears. All the others have 312mm vented fronts and solid 300mm rears. If you have Electronic parking brake you need something like OBD11 or VCDS to put the rears into service mode and then you push the caliper piston back, don’t wind it. Winding can mess up the mechanism and the caliper then needs a full strip down to reset it. Not guaranteed but def official advice on that one. Only when completely finished do you then take out of service mode before applying handbrake (although please check all that bit in case I’ve misremembered etc).

I will have to look into this. I have MIB1 and also OBDeleven Pro, so hopefully will be able to do it.

If you’re not sure what was done, give the garage a visit and they will reset the light. It’s straightforward to do yourself, but if you don’t know what’s been done, as above, it’s best to return to the garage.

That is correct, however there is a bit more to it than that. The profile of a tyre is in relation to the width - so a 225/35 will be much lower profile than a 285/35. It’s a percentage of the width. This is important as most people are tempted to make more than one change when swapping wheels. For example, they’ll go from a 7.5J wheel paired with a 225/40R18 to an 8.5J with a 245/35R19. This would result in a 2.8% increase in diameter, compared with the 0.3% increase of going to a 225/35R19 on the same wheel. This is why it’s important to stick to the recommended setups above. If running a setup such as the 245 profile above, you’d find that the speedo would read 70mph at 71mph, rather than 68mph at 70mph. This isn’t a huge deal, but you don’t want to stray too far from “default” setups - it’ll upset the ABS system (TPMS, TC, ESP, etc).

On non-VRS I have managed to reach it through the part of the bumper where exhaust pipe is located, there is some space to get in. But i have thin hands, not sure everyone could do this.

Still has brolly but I might have to buy matching one for passenger princess

I went to my local independant Skoda authorised garage in the finish. for the sake of an hours labour it was worth it.. Cleared the blockage in drivers side drain, checked passenger side too. All good and no more water inside.. And given the rain we`ve just had , it has had a bloody good test...

Front brake PR is 1ZA, 312x25mm.

The flood may be a coincidence. Check that the plastic gear selector on top of Gbox isnt seized. Happened on my old Seat and couldnt move gearstick to select gears.

oh yes. It is really important you tell the car what type of battery you have and replace it with. The alternator outputs different voltage/charging profiles dependant on what you tell the car you have installed.

Ya...all good info to pop into the first post. Agree, needs changing. I think you can just change but to optimise life of new battery, recode or at least tell the car its a new battery. I think all you really need is to change serial no and make sure capacity (Ah or CCA) is correctly entered. We don't know what your background info is and often when someone says, my car needs a new battery, a good diagnostic mechanic will ask l, how do you figure. Plenty of punters say my car cranks for ages but won't start, must be the battery. Or, my car won't start, what could it be....well...kinda anything....

Try a 2032 as it's a bit thicker. Sounds like loose contacts Mine did the same, just replaced with a 2032 (a good one, so maybe your new battery is flat too) and it worked. Didn't need to recode

To replace it yourself see https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cmuF21KrB8w

Hey, Just to help others, I would like to confirm that I have successfully updated my MIB in Skoda Superb 3 iV from: MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P27800P to: MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P33000P via: MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30800P. So, first installed 308, then 330. No problems with installation whatsoever. All works afterwards. All downloaded from here. (guest/guest) Many thanks for your help!

The only correct answer, if you’re concerned about handling and performance, is the Michelin Pilot Sport 5. Pilot Sport 4 don’t wear very well, and Pilot Sport 4S/S5 are totally overkill. Conti Premium Contact/Sport Contact are very good too - on par with the Pilot Sport series. I haven’t had good experiences with Pirelli - rather poor IMO. Bridgestone have been equally poor. Goodyear Eagle F1/Asy 6 have had good reviews, along with the budget Uniroyal Rainsport 5. They aren’t the cheapest in 225/35R19. Maybe consider going up to 235/35R19 - they’re more common, so are cheaper. Similarly, there is only one correct answer for where to fit new tyres. Regardless of the drive type, new tyres should always go on the rear. Why? Understeer is correctable - oversteer, often, is not.