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I wanted the raised boot floor so I did my own. It's not quite as complex as the OE Mk3 version - more like the Mk2 - but i'm very happy and now can have a level floor with seats folded down for long loads or a mattress. All measurements available for anyone that wants to do it too. Octavia Mk2 Estate Variable Floor - £20 from U-Pull-It (back edge cut slightly shorter and different shape to fit mk3 124mm Wide Strips of 18mm Chipboard - £0 from B&Q Offcuts Bin 100mm Wide Strips of 18mm MDF - £0 from B&Q Offcuts Bin Anthracite Acoustic Lining Carpet & Glue - £9.45 from ebay

I actually had an Elroq on test for a couple of days and was disappointed. Interior didn’t feel as nice as mine as far as materials go and design wise inside it was identical, I mean why? It’s a new car and it was just stuck in the past. Also the outside styling is super dumpy and dull. Screen was tiny, they took away the USBc in the rear view mirror for a dashcam, everything just felt like costs were being cut. Also having to pay extra for lots of things that are standard on the Renault I ordered seems penny pinching. Why on a 50k car do I have to pay another £1k for a heat pump??? This is what I’m getting next! Exact model and colour.

I've been using 70mai 4k A800SE for about 8 months now (since I got the car). Front-facing camera only, didn't bother installing one in the rear. I got it for how much the A510 was at the time, but with these higher model number doesn't always mean newer/better... No issues, so far I haven't seen it glitch and it hasn't melted under the Greek summer sun (yet) Came with a USB-A connector...found a 20cm USB-A to USB-B flat cable. With the right cable, the install is fairly clean It uses WiFi Direct to pull recordings on your phone. I haven't tried connecting it to the car's WiFi access point to make downloading easier (as you do need to disconnect CarPlay/Android Auto) Quality is on par with other devices I've seen online, it's fair for what you pay. A CPL filter might come in handy (can be bought separately for 70mai). The double front windshield can cause interior reflections

Once you have the Oil at the correct level, up in area A of the Dipstick at Normal Operating Temperature which is an indicated 90*oC and stopped for a few minutes, 4 or 5 not 10. See how many miles before it drops when checked the same way. Compare that level to a STONE COLD CHECK, then you will know you have enough oil before trips.

Thanks to all for the inputs, I think I already knew the response, but I thought it best to check. TBH, for now, my son will focus on the general mechanical aspects, outside of bodywork repairs - I was just trying to show him how basic light rust repair could be achieved - job done! Oh, and the garage is absolutely full now, no more room for equipment purchases! I'll leave the heavier aspect of car repairs to his college, and the car repair garage that he occasionally apprentices at! 🙂

Exactly... The big issues being raised over pylons is generally impacts to views and why not go underground or in the sea. Both are generally considerably more expensive, with underground causing similar impacts during construction but over the long term being less visually intrusive once the construction swathe has been restored. Personally I don't find pylons that bad visually and don't think the T pylons are much better... but then I don't live in a very rural location with open views like most of the objectors do... Some of the objections are very 'overplayed' though and some seem to be tin foil hat bat**** crazy too!

Grinding away metal from the edge of the door will almost certainly compromise the door - the door edge is folded-over before being spot-welded, any significant grinding of the edge metal will probably cause the panel to separate.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The problem could also be caused by damage or misalignment of the front assist radar sensor. Check for any sign (even very slight) of damage to front grille - or any movement of radar sensor - replacement is often required if the mounting bracket has been broken.

Thanks all, ordered all from Autodoc, lets see how long they take to deliver. cheers

If there's still oil showing on the bottom part of the dipstick, you have not lost all of the sump contents - probably more like a litre, some of which loss might be explained by the engine not being topped up completely during the service. Add about 1/2 litre of the correct grade oil and recheck the level, continue to add small quantities if level is still below maximum, then monitor for correct level frequently to check if oil is being used. Bad idea to rely on idiot lights - there is no substitute for correct engine fluid level checks.

I think there's enough VAG vehicles about with Gen3B engines for tuning solutions to be pretty sorted now, however I haven't seen a thread on what's available out there, and any real-world experiences with Gen3B remaps (and boxes, but to be honest, I'm not a huge fan of tuning boxes.) So I thought I'd start a thread with the goal of highlighting options for Gen3B engines, and hopefully collating any experience Gen3B owners have had with tuning their Budack engine. To kick off, here are a few companies that offer tuning products for the Geb3B. Obviously more tuners exist, but not all have products to tune the Gen3B. (For example, Celtic tuning don't offer a Gen3B solution on their website, but it's worth noting that some of these websites are not updated as often as they should be. ) Some of the links need you to enter car info and don't give a direct link to the relevant information, blame their poor website design, not me. 😋 Where a direct link can be given, I think I've given it. It's by no means comprehensive, but it's a start. Feel free to add any other companies you come across with Gen3B products and please add any experience or links to experience with Gen3B tuning. I know you can't go too mad tuning the Gen3B, but it's a decent engine and in the Skoda Octavia it creates a fairly nippy but attention-dodging Octavia. https://www.onlyrevo.com/product-details/software/skoda/octavia-mk3-2013-2020/421/stage-1 https://www.racingline.com/ea888-gen3b-software https://www.getunitronic.com/ecu-tuning/volkwagen-tiguan-20l-tsi-2019-stage1 https://sportignition.com/product/group-8-jb4-tuner-gen3b/ https://www.quantumtuning.co.uk/ https://top-tuning.co.uk https://www.turnerperformance.co.uk/car-registration-lookup/?RegistrationNumber=lb69pdv https://www.chiptuners.co.uk/vrm/ https://www.superchips.co.uk/ECU-Remap/Skoda/Octavia-A7-2013/Petrol/Laurin-2-0-TSI-187-bhp/lb69pdv https://www.angeltuning.co.uk/ https://jrtuning.co.uk/remap-tuning-files/viewdetails.php?make=Skoda&model=Octavia&modelyear=2017 - 2019&engine=2.0+TSI+190hp Also, please check @skodamota's thread here, which I forgot to include in my list of suppliers, as TVS didn't show up in my UK-based search when I was researching potential remap suppliers.)

So it’s goodbye to my Skoda Octavia iV estate. It going to be replaced in the next few days by a Renault Scenic which on the lease scheme I have available is way cheaper - I can get the top of the range one for the price of the cheapest Elroq. I’ve had the car 4 years since new. First there was the software issues but I have a good local dealer that completely reprogrammed the car for me and everything pretty much worked fine after that. It’s been comfy for long journeys, it’s pretty fast and apart from the droopy nose looks decent too (I upgraded the alloys and got the nice green blue colour). Interior has held up well but I do look after it. It has been plagued by rattles and squeaks, some of which I never got to the bottom of (neither did the dealer) which was very annoying and also the fuel economy was dire unless I charged it up and even then it wasn’t great. Thing 30-35mpg round town if you haven’t charged it. I’m glad I ordered it and it’s been good overall but I’m not bothered about getting another one - annoyed I can’t really get an estate car cheaply on my scheme so have had to go SUV but it’s cheap enough so it’s ok. Anyway if anyone wants a full set of custom mats for free and can pick up from Huddersfield then they are all yours. Never been used, got them with the car and always used the Skoda ones. They are nice! I am also selling some Yakima roof bars for the car too, they are the best ones you can get (better than Thule). I would join the site to sell stuff but it’s not worth it for one item being as I am moving away from Skoda! Anyway thanks for the chat and banter and shoulders to cry on regarding the software, hope you are going to enjoy Skoda ownership for a lot longer!!

In the meantime, I got a continental spec left side taillight module from a breaker, still needed to crosswire from the right hand side, but worked immediately. Therefore 100% confirmed that estate + saloon rear light clusters do behave differently

Haha. Luckily for me there are as many parcels arriving from shein for her as there are from AliExpress for me!

I'll send u a Private Message shortly so u can give me ur email address.....

The manual will probably give an approximate figure, but depending on engine size, generally it is safe to assume there is about 1/2 litre between min and max line on the stick.

Yeah they are the ones i fitted (Bosch) i just replaced 1,2 and 4. the sensor one is around £120 (Skoda will charge around £200) that was 3 years ago, so far touch wood, its been fine, i used a ceramic grease on the threads, 10nm, an airline to clean around the well, last thing you want is crap getting into the engine, a can of compressed air wil do the job, no1 is to the far left as you look down on the engine. They are at the front of the engine, easy to see and get the engine hot first before removing, you'll need a deep 10mm 1/4 drive socket, 12mm for the no3. I would buy a torque wrench, rather than guess.

Hi Nigel, Thanks very much for the manual link! I've managed to get it to work (after it telling me i has to be in the USA etc etc etc) and there's definitely a lot to browse! Next time i get a chance to go over the car, i shall go armed with that! That's a really big help! Thanks again much appreciated, when (or if!) i do eventually find the cause i shall be sure to share!

Unless your engine is leaking like the Torrey Canyon, or smoking like an old Russian tank, I'd bet money that your engine was not filled correctly at the last oil service, meaning it has not lost the amount you think it has.

That might not be enough for your mum's use of the car even if left connected all the time the car isn't used. How about using a fag lighter 12v socket for charger maintainer. Or fitting connector leads to the battery terminal camps that has the tails and small connector outside the rear seat. Decades back I had a car with, the to me unwanted, alarm and the 12v battery in the front passenger's footwell (as well as the engine ECU and fuse board further back than the battery) so if the car was left for two weeks the battery would be low or flat. The lead connector on battery terminals worked very well and was quick and easy to connect. Yes. 🙂 Good luck.

Hi All from sunny mansfield , had a 2015 Yeti L&K from 2020 to present. My girts really but i use it a Little , great Car 🥰 Ordered a Fabia 130 in blue that will be here in july (cant wait) 🥰🥰

I have a feeling the car also detects if you are nor 100% concentrating on what you are doing. This has happened to me 3 times and in each case my sttention was distracted whilst reversing at very low speed

The Toyota solution is a solar panel trickle charger that sits in the windscreen and you have to lift the rear seat to connect and disconnect it!!!! My mother-in-laws partner is an old school mechanic and says the workshop ones make a lot of assumptions. I have had more than a decade of free labour and access to a ramp from him but also endless reminders about dealers having technicians and not mechanics(???) and lets not talk about the depreciation on new cars, so if anyone asks this is a company car that has to be serviced at a dealer.

Yep, Konig K-Slim size 097 is a perfect fit for the VRS 225/40R18 combo and there is tight but decent clearance to the strut and the arch liner on lock. Good clearance to the outer arch too. Also be aware that Konig was bought out by Thule and for a while re-branded to Thule before returning to the Konig name. If looking for second hand you may find Thule CK-7 chains size 097 which are identical to the Konig K-Slim.

SVM is Coding from Factory Server

The colleagues are not doing return trips much more than 300 miles then. Plenty BEV drivers never need to use Public Chargers. Which really means their trips are just as far as the range of that cars battery from a Home or Workplace charge. As to time to Public Charge. That is not long using a Ul;tra Rapid Charger / Tesla Supercharger.

I note it's electric, I don't have the charging facility available or a good enough power supply to have one. I don't want electric for the foreseeable future, not until they can charge in the same time it takes me to fill with petrol (3-4') and a decent range too. Also that devious 🤬 we have as a CoEx in No11, is proposing a pay per mile charge for EVs + VED.

Nick I thought it might be as it looks similar to the engine in my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, which is a CJZC. Here's a link to Workshop Manuals that might help you identify parts and locations, if not I can give you the one for the Fabia Mk3 CJZC/D engine. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/skoda-rapid/ HTH.

Thank you, well aware of the 12v issues out there courtesy of rescuing my mum numerous times as she only does short journeys in here Toyota Yaris hybrid and it refuses to do anything at all. I'm getting the 2.0TSI Sportline so hopefully will be in a better place and will get a long run at least once a week.

Make sure Plug and Charge is activated in the car and/or app. This is whats needed on my VW ID.4

Hi, welcome. A new 2026 car will be a different experience to older used cars. My advice is read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' (as much as you can now as they're not as good as useful as they were previously) and keep the 12v battery in a reasonably good state of charge so as not to upset the all of the car's computer system. You obviously know where the Kodiaq section of the site is and you might have already read the 'Owner's Manual', for the latest model, but in case not here's the link to VWŠkoda's 'Owner's Manual' site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models All the best.

My OEM rubber matts arrived this morning. They look very nice, I was however surprised by just how light they are, less than 50% of the weight of the normal versions. No noticeable smell. I’ve 95 miles to Surrey and return tomorrow if they turn out to smell ,I’ll mention it here - no smell no mention 👍

@Graham Butcher I am a regular visitor to Wind Farms. There are ones that are open for tourism & recreation. Ones with Vistor Centres and free slow charging. I see solar panels at the side or on the roof of farm buildings regularly. No issues there as far a visual impact to a farm yard area. The objections to solar and battery farms in Scotland is just ridiculous as far as the reason many give for objecting. I do read the Applications and objections many give. I would be letting them freeze in the dark.

True, but since you also get always good advice, you end up not wasting it in the wrong products ... I do not know how that could work as a justification, but ... I keep it handy 😄

Have a good look at Autotrader for the price of new vehicles before going in, as there's a huge amount of stock sitting in the dealer network. The retail price of a new Karoq is far from being a bargain IMO, when you consider that things like the Varioflex seats are now a £1k option. You should be in a very strong position ahead of the 26 plates if you're prepared to take a 75. Obviously it limits options & colours but as a guide, I got £8k off an unregistered SEL Edition in June with very little effort, bar being willing to travel for the right car/deal. I doubt such discounts are available on bespoke factory orders, so could make that heated screen very expensive.

@travs "split silver" looks exactly same as i installed -> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009340362950.html

Christmas card shot that one

Just had a look at the V5, it's a CJZD 👍 Many thanks Nick

Hiya Nta, Not sure off hand but I can try and find it tomorrow if I get chance 👍 Thanks for the reply 🙂

Lets return to more on-topic things, shall we? I think this is a well-balanced view of the current position on the push towards electric cars.

Get USB/AUX port with harness and wire it from the new unit to armrest. There is no need to removing the centre console, just pul apart the front part from the passenger side and wire the harness along the console to the back. Remove the rear clock assembly - this will give you the access to the current AUX port so you can remove it and replace with AUX/USB (after extending the hol;e - a sharp knife is good enought to make it).

Here is my story for this electric trunk problem. Car is Combi version if it makes any difference. Symptoms were similar what others have described in this thread. Trunk lid opened only about 30 cm. Closing the lid from close button worked fine except the final latching did not happened. In addition luggage compartment lights did not came on when opening the trunk lid. Root cause was a faulty cable connection in the trunk lid wiring loom. Inside the wiring loom there is a soldered cable connection which was badly oxidized. In practise, cables were disconnected. If you have a multimeter it helps to check if you have the same problem. Remember to disconnect battery before measurements and possible soldering. There are few coupling connectors inside the lid on the left side. T5d (brown) is important in this case. There should be a connection between T5d pin 5 and latching motor connector T4c pin 1. Cable color at both ends brown/blue. Also, there should be a connection between trunk lid closing button connector T4aj pin 4 and T5d pin 5. Cable color at both ends brown/blue. You can also measure resistance between trunk lid closing button T4aj pin 4 and latching motor connector T4c pin1. Cable color at both ends brown/blue. Resistance measurement in all cases should be 0 ohms or close to that. If not, then cable connection inside the wiring loom is broken. Cable connection is few tens of centimeters from T5d connector. You'll find it when removing the tape around the wiring loom. Connection itself has also tape around it. Make a new clean connection and problem solved. Then about the closing motor fault codes. Probably broken cables inside the rubber tube. I checked cables on both sides. One cable already broken few cables where insulation broken. Difficult to fix.

The map is up to date. The map is Turkey map. The version is 2025.02 which corresponds to 2025.05.

You need CANBUS Friendly LED bulbs - did this on my FL Scout. Made a huge difference. https://www.ledperf.co.uk/h8-led-bulbs-osram-night-breaker-smart-street-legal-64212dwnbsm2hb-p-136736.html Expensive, but worth it!

The only correct answer, if you’re concerned about handling and performance, is the Michelin Pilot Sport 5. Pilot Sport 4 don’t wear very well, and Pilot Sport 4S/S5 are totally overkill. Conti Premium Contact/Sport Contact are very good too - on par with the Pilot Sport series. I haven’t had good experiences with Pirelli - rather poor IMO. Bridgestone have been equally poor. Goodyear Eagle F1/Asy 6 have had good reviews, along with the budget Uniroyal Rainsport 5. They aren’t the cheapest in 225/35R19. Maybe consider going up to 235/35R19 - they’re more common, so are cheaper. Similarly, there is only one correct answer for where to fit new tyres. Regardless of the drive type, new tyres should always go on the rear. Why? Understeer is correctable - oversteer, often, is not.

FWIW mine are Konig chains too. They're good quality, and yes, relatively expensive. But in the unlikely event that you actually need to use them, you absolutely don't want cheapie chains that break after a few hundred meters...and it sounds like you may be limited by what is available to fit yours also. We drive next weekend so just been practicing putting them on!

I have a 2019 VRS245 running 225/40R18. Clearance is pretty tight to the shocker at the rear which is probably why Skoda say no to chains as a general principle at this tyre size. If you go to the Konig website and use their selector they are likely to override this and offer their super low profile chains to overcome this problem. They say that they base their recommendations on real life testing and they do have an established reputation. https://www.konigchain.com/consumer-configurator/ For my size I was offered König Reflex Edge 597, König K-Summit K23 or the König K-Slim 097 with the latter being the most cost reasonable option (despite not being cheap). The 097 suffix is the size designator. The König K-Slim is a 7mm clearance chain obtained by twisted links and low profile fixings on the inside loop. They also claim that the design has a 'micro dynamic profile' meaning that it is less likely to lift off the tyre in travel, reducing clearance. https://www.konigchain.com/chains/konig-k-slim/ They are manual adjust but looking at the fitting vid they are absolutely idiot proof. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoJrFGczXKs Currently £178 on Amazon (the cheapest I have found them), one set left in my size (check compatibility with yours). The cheaper (£123 cheapest) König CB-7 also has a 7mm twisted chain but only on the inside with conventional chain on the outside half which may cause you clearance problems at the arches over bumps. Personally I would go for Slims and have just bought a set. Still to arrive so I can't comment on the fit in-use.

Hi Everyone, new here to the forum. Kinda fresh owner of a 2020 Superb IV. Some people might curse me for it, but it was red and I had it wrapped in "Gloss Auratium Green". I wanted a unique car, something green in the line of the Nardo Grey color but not Nardo Grey ;) In my opinion it worked out really well, love how different the car looks during the day versus evening / dusk. Funny how opinions on the color of my car are quite hefty. People either love it or hate it. I've been looking to get some other winter alloys. Any good tips on what OEM rims would look good? Love the current combination of black and chrome on the wheels. I thought the 19 inch Cursa wheels with black/chrome would look good but can't find any examples of Superbs with those rims. (https://originele-velgen.com/originele-skoda-kodiaq-ns7-cursa-565601025ap-ha7-lichtmetalen-velgen-19inch/)

It's an H15 bulb you need, there are several options for brighter ones from e.g Osram, Philips, etc.

If you want howling and whooshing you have a few options, mostly around air intake to allow more induction noise, that or buy a wolf?