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I was looking on Autotrader last week to see what prices were doing. I was surprised to see that there weren't very many cars available in the 50-60k mile range. This time last year, there were loads. I can only assume that all the stories of people hanging on to their cars are correct.

I have access to repair manuals that describe some adjustments. I’ll DM you a link

It’s not important when buying, but just something to make a note of for sorting in the near future. As with any newer car, the main point of failure, beyond consumables, are all the plastics in the engine bay (water pump being a good one). You should be able to get an idea of how well the car has been cared for just by the condition of stuff the dealer wouldn’t touch (brake discs, engine bay cleanliness, etc)

took it apart today, cleaned it out, no switched in, but copper conductive pcb, with counterparts imbedded in some rubber membrane... brushed them over with a pensil eraser, working fine now, still a little wobly,,,and i know , it is a 5 pound part...just wanted to see it on the inside https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009964032028.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.72aa37068cDFyU&algo_pvid=07f1f3ec-42b7-498a-867e-d188450ac522&algo_exp_id=07f1f3ec-42b7-498a-867e-d188450ac522-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%229%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21DKK%21111.36%2133.41%21%21%21116.63%2134.99%21%40211b615317729972738375347e5b36%2112000050704102711%21sea%21DK%212171966432%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A99ac881e%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=FDxzVdmN91Jk&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009964032028%7C_p_origin_prod%3A but thx everyone for replying in my post

Check to make sure directional tyres fitted correctly also

You have a very "can do" attitude. 👍 I wouldn't have looked at that and thought "yeah that may be repairable". 🙂 I replaced one on a Vauxhall something-or-other for one of my neighbours, and it was only about a dozen quid for aftermarket. Looked similar inside after post mortem dissection.

It's even worse in Ireland, thanks to the imports from the UK effectively being stopped courtesy of tax where it costs nearly as much if not more than the cost of the vehicle, what selection is available is considerably expensive. I bought my Octavia estate at the start of the COVID microchip shortage so paid more than the car should have been I think it was €18,000 for a 2.0 midrange TDI with just under 90,000 miles, something similar is now about €22,500. Rant over common things to look for are the silica bag if the expansion tank has mit silikat stamped on it check the bag is not there, it should be on the right hand side of the expansion tank, I think it was removed from about 2018 onwards also check the colour of the coolant if it's brownish the silica bag ruptured and clogged the heater matrix. If you're looking at ones with climate control test all the vents the flap motor is a common failure. If you're looking at a diesel check the crankshaft seal as they can leak as it's a plastic cover with a rubber seal behind the crank pulley.

Sorry I am little confused. And new on this forum My car is skoda octavia 2 ltr diesel Sel model year 2021 estate Current software is 1896 and donot have 2 keys. And can't become primary user

Click on the word "Home" at the top left of the webpage and then scroll down to find the forum your car model and version, then click on that and start a new topic just like you have done here. Give FULL details of you car - model, year, infotainment type, etc.

Reckon if its going to max it may be a short somewhere. Your being very polite by saying electrical issues are very elusive. I have many other phrases. Hope its an obvious one Alasdair

Sons MK1 was the same. ABS/brake warning light. On his it was the strip fuse beside battery that had a hairline crack. His brakes were also spongy and needed a pressure bleeder to remove air from rear after piston replacement. Tried manually for ages but only when I used a presurised gunson the air came out. Alasdair

Yes, my experience with BMW and Audi dealers is moving money from your account to their's. Skoda seems more in line with the brand values. I really like the look of your pan roof. Makes the rear look even more spacious! Thanks for sharing.

I agree as long as it has a good service history and haldex/dsg have been serviced regularly should be fine. Check out any MOT records for advises/corrosion etc. When buying a car or my son it was amazing how many low mileage failed MOT with bald tyres leaking shocks, corrosion etc. If you put a car in for an MOT with canvas showing on the tyres and a front strut thats covered in oil the chances are its not been looked after or driven like you stole it. If your buying privately I would avoid any that have number plate obscured as they may be trying to hide bad MOT results etc. Alasdair

That's very reassuring, so that's a 'thank you' from me and the wife then! We're really looking forward to the collection. From the paperwork in the glove compartment, we saw that Rosie was born at 6:20pm (CET) on 28 January 2026. The Certificate of Conformity also confirmed that she is compatible with the 17" Cystal, light alloy metallic rims and snowchains. Result! After our PDI inspection we grabbed a coffee from the machine, lingered in the seating area and absorbed the atmosphere and culture within the dealership. I was an HR & Organisation Development guy before retiring and you can learn a lot from soaking up the vibe within a workplace as an observer. It was calm, friendly and folk seemed to be going about their business with a sense of purpose. No 'airheads', no pointless 'host or hostess' welcome service. Decent, real-world people going about their jobs with a sense of purpose. The coffee wasn't so good but, to be fair, when my Service Advisor at our local Land Rover dealer invited me to take a seat and help myself to a coffee in their showroom during my last visit......the coffee machine had broken down! Says it all really 😅. Honestly, our lad had an Audi TT and that was not dissimilar to the Land Rover showroom experience. All glass, marble and palacial showrooms that are quite overwhelming. One morning, while checking in the TT for my son, before heading into Edinburgh City centre, the lady explained in a long-winded script that the technicians undertake a free, complimentary health check which covers over 200 items - including even the bolts that hold the rear numberplate on. On an Audi TT, the rear numberplate is glued on with double sided adhesive. I just nodded helpfully as I needed to get to work on the tram! At the LR dealership, my Service Advisor told me that the technician had replaced the OSF. She didn't know what an OSF was but said it had been replaced as part of the service. I nodded and surrendered by Barclaycard 😥. I already knew the track rod end had been replaced. Anyway, I am turning the page and moving on to the next chapter - whatever that may bring. Best wishes.

May have been a wiring connection issue. Check the wiring back from the sender to make sure its not shorting somewhere. Alasdair

She's in the family now. I'm pleased your initial impressions were positive. She's a lovely looking steed and I'm optimistic you will not miss the Velar. Since I've had mine I've noticed some improvements via the over air updates. Travel Assist is a lot more natural in its driving style now whereas before it was a little binary with the brake and accelerator. Also the rear camera resolution seems to have sharpened a little, along with a higher resolution Car graphic on the overlay. Also steering assist can now differentiate between curbs and soft verges and this is shown on the display. 13 5k miles in now and no issues, rattles or anything. Fast motorway seems to be it's forte especially fully laden with people. Even in its softest damper setting its so stable and settled. Not long now ...!

Somewhere from the back of the dealer compound there was a sound, something like "thank you @Novichok "

I would as suggested by @MikeTheThinker swap front to back. Behaviour is likely to just crap tyres. 'Arrowspeed'.Not Halfords own brand, Kwik Fit sell them. Check the manufacturing dates.

@radas35 Is it used tyres that are now on the car? (Already shaped / misshaped) by the previous user) .What width and profile were the 16" and what are the 18"?, what brand / name tyres have you on now, and what pressure are they at?

One other quick check; swap the front wheels over and see if the driving behaviour follows the wheel or stays as-was.

Valid point there @travs the comment was a little tongue in cheek, but understand what you are saying. Plus I don’t really have the confidence in my dealer for things anyway. Lucky it did work for me in the end.

I could but apparently they are £350 for a new unit and as I've only had the car for 3 days I refuse to pay for something that was broken when they sold it to me.

Yes, the warning does say which tyre is the problem

You wanna make him drive uphill in reverse at 60kph ? 😄😆

@Swervin_Mervin Actually - any of the latest revisions should not have silica bag in it, e.g. 5Q0 121 407 T from this post https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/475223-expansion-bottle-replacement/page/9/#findComment-5457309 So if you're buying it from a Skoda dealer, you may ask them.

Hi! Original poster here - my thanks to all who responded. This YT clip is better than the one I used to replace the batteries with. That little U shaped clip is a real PITA and the issue was resolved by keeping the key blade retainer outside of the fob as the shaft is slid back in after the job is done. Another really clever piece of wunderbar German logic and engineering! However, in getting one of my keys back in order, I noticed that the obveerse side where the three buttons are is now coming adrift after slightly over three years in use, despite my rotating the keys monthly. Any suggestions to fix this or will it be a trip to the dealer? Thanks again.

Welcome Rosie!

That's brilliant thank you!

I had a Fiesta Mk3 which, after randomly spinning a 180 on a dual carriageway sliproad in dry conditions at no excessive speed I realised that I could change lanes with the throttle. Accelerate and the car would drift right, take my foot off the throttle a little and the car would drift left. Ended up being a diff bush in a lower arm. Can’t remember whether it was the middle bush or the rear one. Would have remembered if it was bottom ball joint so it wasn’t that one. Might be with a look jacking that front nearside up and seeing if there is excessive movement. More wear on the outside seems to suggests positive camber.

A quick check for you; look at the tyre treads to see if there's any uneven wear, plus check for the correct tyre pressures and enough tread depth..

When I bought my Fabia Mk4 new in March 2024 I asked the salesman about servicing time-intervals. I was told that, for low-mileage cars (as mine would definitely be) an oil/filter change would be required at 1-year, as opposed to 2-years for a car that covered a significantly higher mileage, and that a message would appear on the car's instrument cluster when the date for a service approached - and that's what has happened. With an annual mileage of less than 2000, PongoBongo's car will (like my car) qualify for an oil/filter change at 12 months and another at 24-months. And, based on the cost of my car's first service (at 12 months) the £299 of his Service Pack should provide a useful financial saving over two 'same type' full-price Skoda dealership services (that should include a lot more actions/checks than just changing the engine-oil and oil-filter). I'd expect PongoBongo's car to recalculate its servicing schedule over time (mine does) but I can't see that matters much when it's clear that his car will require servicing at 12 and 24 months within the Service Plan's lifespan.

In a moment of weakness and an overwhelming bout of "want" I bought it. The car is a 2019 69 plate VRS Tsi 245 manual Estate. It has done 71k with one owner. I am very happy with my choice, the refinement, the ease of use and the build quality blinds the 21 year old Volvo unsurprisingly. Unfortunately the engine is lacking the Volvo's 5 cylinder anger, brawn and character. The Skoda is quick, the 2.4 Volvo T5 is fast. The thing is, the Volvo's chassis has never been good enough to cope with the speed and the way the engine produces it's power. The Octavia VRS feels like cheating, but in a good way. I went for my last drive in the Volvo today, I've been incredibly fortunate insofar as it's never let me down and it's sold for £1,000 more than I paid for it 12 years ago. The new owner has assured me he will love it like a 3rd child. I collect the Skoda on Wednesday.

It depends. You have to be on your toes to counterfeit. But there are genuine and aftermarket parts on amazon and ebay. You need to take care, look at feedback, look at seller, if its a known automotive seller with time trading you are more likely to be ok. If it is too cheap, that is a warning.

Fog lights are not to ‘light your way’ but to improve your vision by not lighting the fog up, headlight should be off in foggy conditions - that aside, the ‘fog’ we get nowadays is nothing compared to 50 odd years ago - it’s just ‘misty’…….and don’t get me started on ‘rear’ fog lights - I’m amazed at how many dorks that normally can’t use indicators but manage to find find one of the most hidden switches the moment there’s a little bit of mist……..!

Picture of mine Kodiaq Sportline.

I've just scanned my 2011 Audi S4 and yes, it stores TPMS warnings in the ABS controller, it has probably a leak around the valves on the front tyres - these wheels were refurbished maybe 3 years ago due to leaks around the valve hole - ie localised corrosion due to my powder coater using the valve holes in the wheels to hook the wheels up from while working on the wheels, a lot annoying as I'll need to get the tyres off and the valves out, then I'll take them home and clean up and apply paint to that area on both the front wheels. It is probably logical when you think about it, anything associated with the ABS function should get logged. I'd need to force a TPMS warning on my wife's 2015 VW Polo to see if it also stores these events in the ABS controller.

I bought a “space saver” for my Elroq. It hasn’t caused me any issues carrying it around as in the photo.If I ever need to really load up it would just have to be left behind but that scenario hasn’t happened yet.

Thanks very much for the confirmation tris179, that's very helpful. I guess that by "withdraw" you mean "settle" 😁

That’s not my reply… The OP was clear in their question, but hasn’t provided enough information for any of us to provide the correct answer. Nevertheless, it’s clear to me that those claiming to have ‘cancelled’ their agreements meant to write ‘settled’, ultimately confirming to the OP that they were able to keep the incentives after clearing the finance in full. Far from confusing.

Aye - I was reading 'cancel' to mean 'settle' and was guilty of conflating the two things, but it is an important distinction to make as they are two very separate things. With one, the 14-day legal cooling-off period applies, with the other, it's irrelevant.

Sorry, might be too late for this to have any affect if OP was going to the garage on Friday, but just for the record.... 😲 After everything that's been written, why are people still getting this sooooo wrong? If there's a Briskoda Admin person reading this, perhaps it would be a good idea to have a post re: early PCP settlement that people can refer to rather than folk like me having to correct misleading information. Everyone: If you CANCEL a PCP arrangement then as with any finance agreement, under UK law, the Consumer Credit Act allows 14 days to withdraw without penalty ( commonly known as the cooling off period ). But the OP does not want to cancel the agreement ( few people do ), he want's to SETTLE the agreement, that's to say he want's to fulfill it. Under a PCP arrangement, you can settle the agreement at anytime - forget all about the 14 days cooling off, it does not apply to settlement, only to cancellation. If you cancel an agreement then any incentives would have to be paid back. If however you settle an agreement, you keep the incentives, regardless of when you settle. OP - check with the dealer who the finance is with, but if it's a VW Group dealership then there's a good chance it's VWFS. And yes, VWFS provide PCP finance on used cars... https://customer.vwfs.co.uk/car-finance-options/helping-you-choose/financing-used-vehicles.html I haven't used VWFS to settle an agreement since 2020 and I believe they still work in exactly the same way: 1. Take out a PCP agreement, 2. Give it a couple of days, couple of weeks, couple of months, couple of years - whatever you want then log in to your online account with VWFS and request a settlement figure. 3. If it's after a few days, the only additional payment should be an administration fee of around £20-£30. Now I say should be, but I'm not up to speed with current T&C. The reason I'm hesitant is I bought a Toyota back in August and did exactly the same as I've always done with VWFS however they hid behind some ambiguous statement in their T&C that said a charge may be applied according to government rules. Well a charge was applied - about £600, but nobody could tell me those government rules or how the figure was calculated. ( I'm still waiting to hear back from the financial ombusman on a ruling). Basically Toyota are saying we may charge whatever we like and don't have to show you how the sum was arrived at. They kept referring to the government website buy never divulged where on that website it mentioned anything about max. charges that can be applied. 7 months on and I've still never found them! Toyota Finance are the only company that I've come across who charge this fee for setttling a PCP agreement but I've a hunch if they get away with it, others may also apply a charge, so whatever finance agreement you're asked to sign, pay particular attention to the section on early settlement. Hope that helps.

The silica was supposed to increase the life of G13 coolant but ended up causing more damage than good due to the ruptures so was replaced with G12 EVO coolant

I have bought from it in the past. Too high shipping rate (3 courier only) so for an item that costs 2 euro the courier charges is at least 9€ so it's not convenient.

Tyre pressures are okay also tread is on all 4 tyres 5mm+ but only 1 tyre on front left has uneven wear basically there is more tread on the right side of the tyre than on the left but could that be the issue?