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You can buy and fit yourself, get the basic ObdEleven reader, pay approx £5 for 1 credit and code the battery yourself, the battery type "AGM" stays the same but by changing the capacity - a new one will be 70 or 72ah, the serial number also changes.... telling the BMS it has a new battery, this must be done even if capacity and type are the same. Takes 10 mins. You'll then have a device that can read errors in future and do things like prime fuel system when changing a filter.

Many thanks for all the help. New springs fitted with minimal hassle. Found the easiest way is to jack car up then put a jack under swing arm to take strain. (I have a couple of old Peugeot boxer van scissor type with a handy button on top that sits in swing arm hole) Remove swing arm bolt at hub end, Lower jack under swing arm, pull spring out and fitting is just the reverse. All torqued up and cars sitting level again. Thank you again for all your help and research Alasdair

I have been inconstant dialogue with Skoda customer service, and they will not give any date for this feature to be reinstated (it was there to begin with). I have been as blunt as I can be, asking for a rough release date, and they claim they do not know (which is of course a lie). I have pointed out that this is actually costing me money as I cannot schedule a charge. I have pointed out that someone, somewhere in the company must have a roadmap, but they will not even give a 6-month window ... my personal view is that this feature will never be released. It might be good to contact them to say you are a prospective buyer, and it's a key feature that is stopping you buying one right now.... every little helps :)

Discussed previously here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535520-fabia-mk4-130/#comment-5973116 The 130 is the most powerful and quickest CURRENT MODEL Fabia available. (It's highly unlikely that any current model Fabia with the 1.5litre motor will be marketed with a manual transmission.)

Yes thay had it for a week had to have a massive update to a version skoda connect spent months telling me didn't exist incompetent is an understatement.

Variable floor and rear-controlled seat drop from the cargo area were always options that I remember. About the spark plugs, just keep in mind that when I tried to pull the coil, the rubber grommet remained glued "stuck" to the head, which means I am ordering replacement coils to avoid a long stop-time once I start to rip apart the grommet ...

If your resting battery is 12.6v (with alarm/locked/Krooklock etc. applied in garage) then that's great you don't need a new battery if it remains at that level for a reasonable time. The stop/start system has all kinds of conditions that have to be meet for it to be operative and as for the braking it might be a terminology thing. Please don't say you got any of your answers from A (artificial, yes) I (intelligence, it's not). See these from VW. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdfSSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdfSSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

Meh - then it wasn't meant to be. Could have been a dog, could have been a gem. Either way, tomorrow's another day.

Hi all, Sharing my experience with Marshall Škoda Dartford in case it helps other owners, especially anyone dealing with recurring faults or navigating the Consumer Rights Act. Vehicle & Initial FaultPurchased new: Skoda Kodiaq SEL August 2024 (£47,875) Fault description: The sunroof intermittently refuses to close. The force‑limiter triggers incorrectly, stopping the sunroof mid‑closure as if it has detected an obstruction. When this happens, the sunroof remains stuck open, and the control panel becomes completely unresponsive. The manual describes a force‑limiter override procedure, but in my case the override does not work. The only way to eventually close the sunroof is through multiple ignition cycles and repeated swipe attempts, after which it finally closes. First occurrence: November 2024 — within the first four months of ownership. When I first reported the issue, the dealership told me to contact Škoda Roadside Assistance rather than booking the vehicle in directly. Roadside Assistance confirmed the fault but could not repair it on‑site. Repair Attempts (Jan–Apr 2025)January 2025: First available workshop appointment. Diagnosis: motor replacement required, part on back order. February 2025: Loan car provided. Additional parts required (clip, control panel). Vehicle returned to me on 21 Feb — sunroof still not working. The dealership’s own driver confirmed the fault when delivering the car back. Car taken straight back for further work. Late Feb – April 2025: Motor replaced Control panel replaced Full sunroof frame fitted Car returned April 2025 Despite all this, the same fault reappeared in February 2026. Third Failure (Feb 2026)Sunroof failed again in February 2026. I requested a loan car and collection due to work commitments. First available appointment offered was 24 March, with collection/drop‑off initially refused. At this point, with the fault recurring for the third time, I exercised my Final Right to Reject under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Inspection Requests, Delays, Compliance Involvement & Independent Report IssueThis part became very inconsistent and prolonged: The dealership requested to inspect the vehicle to determine whether the recurring fault was linked to previous repairs. Shortly afterwards, they withdrew the request, saying the matter had been passed to their legal and compliance team. Compliance then passed the case straight back to the dealership, stating it was for the retailer to resolve — creating a loop with no progress. The dealership then reinstated the inspection request, saying they could not consider my rejection unless I allowed them to inspect the vehicle. I confirmed multiple times that I was willing to make the vehicle available and asked for loan car and collection arrangements. These arrangements were delayed for several days, despite assurances that details would be provided. Before the inspection took place, I provided the dealership with two precise hour‑and‑minute time windows covering both occurrences of the most recent failures, specifically so they could retrieve the relevant error codes from the system. March 2026: Vehicle finally collected and inspected. Dealer reported “no fault found.” Following this, the dealership stated: Because more than six months had passed, the burden of proof now fell entirely on me. They would only reconsider my rejection if I obtained an independent expert report proving the fault existed at delivery. They offered to contribute 50% toward the cost of such a report. Without this report, they would not accept my rejection and instead offered non‑statutory commercial options (market‑value purchase or part‑exchange). I declined the independent report, as the fault was first reported within four months and had been subject to three failed repairs, which is the basis of my Final Right to Reject under CRA 2015. The matter is now with The Motor Ombudsman. SummaryThis post reflects my personal experience of: A recurring fault first reported within four months Multiple failed repair attempts Long waits for appointments Inconsistent inspection decisions (requested, withdrawn, reinstated) Compliance passing the case back to the dealership Attempts to shift the burden of proof Pressure to obtain an independent report Non‑statutory commercial offers instead of CRA 2015 remedies Initial advice to contact Roadside Assistance rather than booking the vehicle in Providing exact time windows of the failure, yet still receiving a “no fault found” outcome I’m sharing this to help other owners understand what to expect and to provide context for anyone dealing with similar issues. Happy to answer general questions that might help others.

Hi guys, I'm new here obligatory introduction. So I own two Skoda estates, a green line 2 currently off the road due to a water pump failure and thus cambelt came loose. And I replaced it with a 2014 fabia 1.6cr (105) as my workhorse. I've read lots of topics here, some great builds! I'm looking to make a few modifications to my car and I'm here for helpful advice. Nice to meet you ✌️

I’ll take a look at their kit! I work for an engineering company and may be able to knock up some pipework and heat shield myself to save some dolla! Just want to know how it fits and what difference it makes. Not greatly affecting MPG is important as that was the whole point of buying the car BUT I do like turbo noises haha 😛

Any wet wipers for cockpit interior do the job.

It can take a while to show use, especially as the tank is saddle shaped on a 4x4.

Yes I know, I was trying to help you and others - spot the difference (it's the hyperlink on mine, to encourage others by providing a direct link rather than needing to copy & paste, or perhaps it looks different on your device). Good luck anyway I hope you get it sorted.

I just bought an estate 1.6cr (105)!CACY I get 55-60+ the plus depending on how careful I am driving. If you sit a 2k on the motorway doing 65-70mph I can push it up. Mine is currently not modified apart from the air box, I did a little cutting and smoothing and changed the filter

Welcome. @Carlston might be along and help with advice. I will alert a Mod so they can move your thread to the Fabia Mk2 section.

Hello and welcome to Briskoda @bigwillywilson1 👋

I have a 20 plate Octavia 1.5tsi SEL dsg estate, I put standard mk3 facelift 16" wheels on with 205/55 16 tyres, took the 17s off for comfort. It makes a marginal difference, plus there's a bigger choice of tyres & they're cheaper. Plus you have a bit more side wall protection against potholes. I'm not interested within the vanity side of bigger wheels, prefer more comfort.

Interior cleanin product from a decent detailing product company - Carpro, Garage Therapy, Gyeon, Bilt Hamber. Even Autoglym interior cleaner is decent. Nice clean microfibre cloth, gentle agitation letting the product do the work.

Sons m1 fabia did the same the other day. Fault in petrol pump and it filled it till it overflowed. Took about 150miles for it to start dropping. Alasdair

It may be that the tank was filled right to the brim. I would leave it for another 100 miles. If its still the same it may be a wiring short which I think would read full all the time or the sender unit in tank is stuck. Could also be a stuck guage on cluster. Try tapping cluster but not too hard. You could also try disconnecting battery for a while to reboot ECU etc. Alasdair

Google maps tends to be better, but it still has lags when limits have changed and Google hasn't updated. It is frustrating when Google has one limit, you car shows a different limit, and you know from the road signage that they are both wrong.

I've found that, even in places where there are no traffic signs, the speed limit indication is markedly different if you have traffic sign recognition enabled. I know this, because I had a month's free trial of TSR, but was glad when it ended. With TSR it seems to be accessing a second on-line data set, different from the sat nav one. I was getting all sorts of phantom limits showing for which there were absolutely no signs for the camera to spot - mainly 50 mph on motorways for sections where there had presumably been roadworks in the past. If you do have TSR, it may be this second data set that's causing the problems, which would explain why an update to the sat nav data doesn't help. When my TSR trial ended, I found the normal sat nav data to be much more reliable.

Age / generation dependant. Euro 6, cambelt.

No, just tiny marks. Only intake valves were bent and that camshaft was broken. Positive side on this was that there was not any counter force behind the valves because the camshaft was separated from the timing sprocket. And this all happened when I was starting the engine so there was no high rpm´s. As you can see from the pic, there´s tiny marks on the first and fourth pistons. I think I´m going to open a dedicated topic for this and do a full report of that cylinder head operation.

You can go with P2345L version in between, then to the latest: P3355L (1800)

I think not - there is also a boot motor control unit that looks after the motor speed, auto-stop / beeps if it meets resistance etc. But I did spot a kit on AliExpress that looks like it has all the components you'd need - not sure if it would be a big hassle to fit and what the reliability would be like.

A 1.5 TSI and DQ200 7 Speed Twin Dry Clutch DSG. It has no more BHP or Torque than Mk2 Fabia vRS had, & less bhp that the Polo GTI 1.8 TSI 192bhp that followed the Twinchargers had. There the Manual had 320 Nm and the DQ200 DSG limited to 250 Nm.

If i have 100% solution, yes. MIB3 Preh Unit Not MIB2

Hi, 2006 MK2 RS with 2.0 TFSI BWA engine and 244 000 km / 151 614 miles.

Intake camshaft´s sprocket cracked loose and started to spin freely. Intake valves were bent.

This Autotrader entry may help https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-search?advertising-location=at_cars&aggregatedTrim=130&body-type=&colour=&fuel-type=&make=SKODA&model=Fabia&postcode=hr9%207jd&transmission=&trim=130 (On 21 March a member of the Skoda Fabia Owners Club on Facebook said he had just taken delivery of a red 130 and provided a few photos.)

Thank you Leolito! That post gives me hope that I can find the parts at reasonable prices now. I hadn't thought of looking on eBay in Europe for them, I guess I need to find a few new words in French, German and Swedish etc and find a seller willing to post them. WAIT - ROADTRIP!

Well you can switch off ACC or override it briefly using accelerate or brake. Otherwise it is what it is.

Hello! I recently inherited a 2005 Skoda Octavia Tour from my dad and I love it.

Yep will give her a good charging one of the days. The average of 12.6v resting is quite accurate. The battery monitor is directly on the battery via Bluetooth on my phone, all locked up overnight so everything shutdown. It matches my multimeter reading and the reading on the obd11. It gets it’s reading from the battery sensor. I do feel the battery is charged to it’s optimal that the car will allow as I don’t do many short trips while doing 1k a week. I never use the heated seats etc One thing i have noticed with obd11 is the brake regeneration mode doesn’t kick in unless the state of charge is 70% plus. I also noticed brake regeneration is turned off when outside temps drop below 6-7 degrees C. Yes it’s a diesel DSG. interestingly the consensus on the net is that EFB batteries aren’t recommended for brake regeneration. They sre supposedly designed for start stop only.

Forget Arnold Clark. Go to Henrys Glasgow instead.

A little tip. When you are running the basic settings program to recalibrate the seat, flip your sun visor all the way open against the windscreen, and lower your headrest. Otherwise you will be searching for a replacement sun visor as I was! Also, don’t do it sat in the seat!

The dealer should know, or at least be able to speak to tech support who DEFINITELY should know, that the infotainment updates need to be done in certain stages. As a mere owner, who successfully updated my own software thanks to some fantastic guides on here, I know that, so how don't they? When I bought my car, the infotainment was on version 1896. I spoke to another member here, who had a good reputation and apparently worked for VAG tech at some point, and he told me it was safe to go from 1896 straight to 1985, which I did. But people with older versions were having to update to 1896 first. Tell your dealer to shove their waiver up their arse, then tell them to update your software from 1803 to 1896, then from 1896 to 1989

I looked in LLLparts.co.uk and found this diagram. It looks you need part 41. It is available in different colours. I suggest you go to this site and enter your VIN to get the right part(s).

Not sure if this has been mentioned already, but different height springs also have different compression rates. Lowering springs tend to have a higher spring/compression rate (stiffer), while longer travelling springs tend to be... longer travelling... and thus are much softer. This may be desired if you are off-roading the car, but I'm not sure it will be the effect you want on the road. Yes, you can of course stick on higher springs that are thicker, or a narrower coil, but this will defeat the object. Similarly, as you can maybe imagine, lowering springs (being stiffer) often shorten the life of stock dampers, as said shocks are not designed to work with higher compression springs. I would take an educated guess that if this occurs with the lesser work required by lowering springs, then the increased workload demanded by higher travel, softer springs, will kill the shocks even faster. It might be worth first looking at a larger sidewall. I doubt you'll get much change out of £1600 for an aftermarket spring/shock setup, unless you do it yourself).

Several inconsistencies in the recall scope remain unexplained. The Cupra Born is affected for vehicles built between February 7, 2022, and April 21, 2024. However, the Volkswagen ID.3 — produced alongside the Born on the same assembly line at Zwickau — is only affected for vehicles manufactured between June 24, 2023, and August 23, 2024. The KBA documents do not explain why the ID.3’s affected period is shorter despite sharing the same production line. A similar gap appears with the ID.4 and ID.5. Both models are typically built on a second Zwickau production line together with the Audi Q4 e-tron and its Sportback variant. However, neither Audi model is included in the recall. The Volkswagen Group recall specifically targets battery modules manufactured between February 2022 and August 2024. Most units of the Ford Explorer and Capri currently on the road were produced or delivered after this specific window, or used batches that did not contain the identified manufacturing defect.

Anyone seen this new video from Harry's Garage? I think he is making some extremely good points in this video, do you agree?

Thanks. Sorry, HTH means Hope That Helps, (internet?, text? jargon abbreviation). I'm either Nigel or nta16. Pity the road springs are no longer made of real steel and last many decades instead of years, but such is progress (and saving fractions at production).

Hi guys, I had the similar issue, as described here (Octavia 2021). I was able to solve it by myself. How it all started? I got notification on Monday that there is OTA 03A8 update that stated I should install it or some things might stop working in the future. I downloaded it in the evening while driving, and after I parked my car and clicked Install I waited 30 minutes but there was not any information that install is progressing. I turned off ignition, left the car, locked Then Unlocked, Ignition on, and Infotainment prompted me to login with my primary user account After providing username and password, hell broke loose with my infotainment Symptoms after update: After loading primary user profile, Infotainment gets stuck, and cockpit starts shining as Christmas tree Screen goes blank, but still on in the background eSIM icon was offline Force shut down, by extended holding of Power button doesn't help Unplugging and plugging infotainment fuse doesn't help Spent 1h trying to troubleshoot, but no luck After 24 hours, eSIM icon changed from Offline to Online (Tuesday evening) Workaround: I've discovered that if you force restart the infotainment (extended holding of Power button) and quickly enter the Guest profile, Infotainment starts working properly If you try to switch profile to primary owner, same issue above starts happening (so don't do it) Deleted Primary profile (only guest remained) Solution (in my case): I suspect that my profile got corrupted on Skoda servers, so when it starts download to Infotainment, corruption starts I used another email to create Skoda account, and signed into My Skoda app I used new email to login to Skoda infotainment, and VOILA - no issues. Infotainment worked perfectly since But I have Remote Access paid until end of August 2026, so I didn't had access to my car via new My Skoda app with new email Thankfully, when you choose and follow thru option to become primary user (via Infotainment + two keys need to be present in the car), exiting Remote Access subscription was transferred to new email. Since, Tuesday evening, everything is working perfectly. Hope it helps. Attached image shows info after fix.

The best way to improve the ride is to use tyres with more sidewall height such as 195/65R15 and 205/55R16 instead of 225/45R17 and 225/40R18...rather than fitting springs that are too soft. Notice below, that the increased ride height springs are slightly stiffer than the standard ride height springs (ie. 0.25mm thicker wire diameter). This is to help compensate for the car's increased centre of gravity and associated tendency to roll more in corners. FRONT SPRINGS (for Octavia MK3 1.6TDI DSG estate FWD) Standard ride height front springs 5Q0411105GK Length 315mm Wire diameter 12.00mm Increased ride height front springs 5Q0411105HN Length 332mm Wire diameter 12.25mm REAR SPRINGS (for Octavia MK3 1.6TDI DSG estate FWD) Standard ride height rear springs 5Q0511121AD Length 348mm Wire diameter 10.75mm Increased ride height rear springs 5Q0511121BD Length 361mm Wire diameter 11.00mm Some increased ride height front springs (matching 5Q0411105HN) Kilen 23132 KYB RA1122 Lesjofors 4085733 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105hn?supplier%5B%5D=246&supplier%5B%5D=85&supplier%5B%5D=253 Some increased ride height rear springs (matching 5Q0511121BD) Kilen 63141 KYB RA7155 Lesjofors 4285742 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0511121bd?supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=85&supplier%5B%5D=246

How confident are you in doing some of the repairs yoursef or do you have a competent friend who could help? Front Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (6.1.2 (a)) - Does not say where the leak is but probably needs at least a new section. Better left to an exhaust place. Nearside Power steering pipe/hose excessively damaged leaking (2.1.5 (g) (i)) - Only appears to need a new piece of pipe that should be available as a pattern part, in my opinion, and not a new rack. Nearside Rear Position lamp not working (4.2.1 (a) (ii)) - Could be just a new bulb needed that you could replace Windscreen washer not working (3.5 (a)) - Needs investigation. Is the washer reservoir empty, blown fuse (does the back washer work?), a pipe come off or the nozzles blocked? Nearside Headlamp lens seriously defective (4.1.1 (b) (ii)) - If the lenses are cloudy, it does not say what is wrong with them, then polishing them externally with a mild abrasive (DIY kits are available) may be sufficient for it to pass the MOT Offside Headlamp lens seriously defective (4.1.1 (b) (ii)) - See above Nearside Rear Shock absorbers has a serious fluid leak (5.3.2 (b)) - Unless you are competent this is best left to the garage to replace. Offside Front Inner Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn Front (5.3.4 (a) (i)) - As above Parking brake lever has excessive movement indicating incorrect adjustment (1.1.6 (c)) - Could just need the cable adjusting which is a DIY fix if you are competent. Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i)) - Should be fixed by adjusting the cable. Emissions unable to be completed exhaust leak (8.2.1.2 (d)) - Hopefully it will pass the emmisions check when the exhaust leak is fixed. If you can do the "easy" fixes then I would ask the garage to itemise the costs of the other ones and then shop around. As regards whether you should save or scrap the car it is your decision. You would need to do some research as to what you can get for your money and the size/type of car that you need. Buying a second hand car, especially within your budget, has some risks and it is always better to take someone else with you when buying a car if only to distract the salesperson whilst you inspect it properly.

Yep, s/ware updates fixed the issues in early cars. My 2020 build car is absolutely fine now.

I created the torrent for the 1989 version. magnet:?xt=urn:btih:B871F42950D2F26545FC371CD8C69E076DB52EE3&dn=MOI3_EU_SK_R9890L%20MU1989.7z&tr=udp%3a%2f%2ftracker.openbittorrent.com%3a80%2fannounce&tr=udp%3a%2f%2ftracker.opentrackr.org%3a1337%2fannounce Download it and seed it for others... MOI3_EU_SK_R9890L MU1989.7z.torrent