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So, just finished the first stage of the Skoda Felicia project, inside immaculate, outside all rust repaired and sprayed, now have to wait a few weeks before orbital polishing! Should be completely finished about the same time that my Son passes his test! 🙂

I think you exaggerate a bit, when you say it is a death trap... First of all, Lane assist is mandatory....and the fact that you don t find helpful, doesn't mean that it is not for others... Next, the speed warning is not that loud at all, except of being mandatory too. If it is not connected to your sound system, then you barely can hear it... Regarding virtual pedal now, it is true that it has happened to me a couple of times...but there is a reason...like you said you were organizing stuff in the boot..at this moment feet, are exactly facing the virtual pedal sensor, and their motion is read as a command to close...it is a matter of getting used to it and treat it accordingly.... Finally, regarding AEB, it is true that I have heard so from a couple of drivers, but personally, it has been engaged a couple of times, that really needed to... Other than that, I find it to be one of the best cars I ve ever had, which of course isn't quite a reliable criterion, but among other drivers I know, it is far one of the best in its class...

CAT? Flexible coupling? Flange? muffler? DPF? Turbo??? I dunno man, maybe post a photo man, then we can have a look and a better guess man

@Ed-hunter If 1 reversing light or 1 Rear Fog light is a safety issue then millions of vehicles in the UK are unsafe. Who told you it was a Safety Issue? Time they told the DfT / DVSA in the UK and those that Type Approve passenger cars.

Timing (chain) tweaked yesterday, and all went well. I realised afterwards that my concern about creating more slack on the tensioner side for the tensioner to deal with was nonsense. There's no change in the tension anywhere in the system, because everything is the same as it was before, just the cam sprocket moved round a little relative to its shaft (to give the correct correlation with crankshaft). There is a VCDS adaptation for adjusting something post-chain change, but I'm not sure that's essential. If anyone knows what benefit that might give, please let me know ( @stigma ?). Seems more eager on the throttle from low revs, which was the issue - as well as the recurring elongation fault codes. Needs the usual driver to comment, as she hasn't driven it yet. It will be interesting to see if there's any economy improvement too.

That will normally be linked to the offside front wheel abs sensor, but without the codes, we're just guessing

Recoding enables the energy management system to take into account the new battery state. For instance, if your old battery was only able to deliver, let’s say 85% of its initial state when you removed it, AFAIK if you don’t recode the system, your new battery won’t get higher than these 85%of the old one. This is why recoding makes sense, especially if you install one with a bigger autonomy (78Ah instead of 76Ah if I remember well).

Hi, to help others, tutorial how i activated Hill Hold on Scala my2020. Hw number: 2Q0614517N Sw number: 2Q0614517AP Based on info from obdeleven, coding is: Hill hold assist Module 03 Brakes Long coding Activate byte 47 - Bit 6 (was 0B, now 4B) Activate byte 51 - Bit 1 (was D0, now D2) But i couldnt get it enabled (function not available) Instead, i changed the 0B to 4B and D0 to D2 in the long code. After that i got Hill assist options inside adaptations, and got the HA running!

As long as you replace the battery with the same type (EFB for EFB or AGM for AGM) of similar size, coding is not really necessary. If you don't have the tools already it's not worth to buy them just to code the battery. I just swapped my Octavia battery with a new one. Stop start worked immediately & it's been fine for the last 4 years. Gabbo

Let me see if I can find the information on the oil pumps. This was last year as @Evolution13 will remember, so I'll have to do some digging. From everyone that I spoke to (Ecotune, Unicorn, etc) the advice was to stick with 0W-20. For those pushing their EA888s past 600bhp+ the recommendation was to jump up to 5W-30. The general idea is that the newer EA888.3/4 has tighter tolerances than previous iterations, so while running a heavier oil won't cause anything as drastic as starvation, there was concern that it might not reach everywhere it needed to. Will I jump to 0W-30? Probably not. Could it be better for the engine? Maybe, but I can't see me having the car much past 100k miles, and any impact of such a change won't be visible until past then. Don't forget, 90% of engine wear happens during a cold start - and that is where an 0W oil will perform better than a 5W. I quickly found a few bits here, here and here. Not sure how good they are.

We had an early estate identical to that for about 13 years. Everything still worked when we sold it with over 130,000 miles on the clock. It went on to do just under 200,000 miles before it eventually went to the scrapyard in the sky

Not pretty, but not bad for 25 years old.. 84500 on the clock, and suffers quite badly from the dreaded "Red Paint Peel", but on the upshot, no rust. All the usual issues to be sorted out (drooped roof lining, driver's door lock or wiring issues, passenger front door window "glued in"... No winding mechnism for the rear drivers side door window. Head lights glass beyond cleaning up) Still, I like it. I'll be fitting a towbar soon. .

Funny you should mention that, I've noticed how the menu's have changed since I first got my car, mine's a 2020 build too. It was a real struggle changing Laura's voice from male to female as the option to do so only appears very briefly in the sub menu when you access it. I had to scroll to the bottom quite literally the instant I opened said menu and it took me ages to be quick enough to tap the option with my finger once I had before it disappeared. 🤨😂

It's something you can adapt using OBDEleven

From memory, the function to disable the auto-locking was there when I got my 2020 build car (just over five years ago). However, after many software updates, it is no longer appears in the menus on mine either (when it disappeared I don't know). I guess you could use the Central Locking button under the Infotainment screen to manually unlock it. Tedious though!

You need Patch for smartlink Dont make Update 3 To 4 With Stock Files. This brick your Unit

I would not be taking no for an answer as it makes the car almost undriveable in my opinion. Especially as the new Sportline I have has no such issues. Show them this thread. Ring Škoda too.

24h activ https://mega.nz/file/Fm1yTYoZ#fC9DgUXxtEe1pz-IFr9KyR9teX44u5ECXH8ZddE4omc

Yes, I have tried this. The cellular signal is good, and I have tested it in various locations I think the communication module is working fine, because I can see the total mileage in the MySkoda app and I've also been able to update apps directly in the car. I will visit the dealership after the Easter holidays to double-check my delivery status in their system.

We picked up our Scala just over a week ago. Had a lot of tar spots that needed removing. Gtechniq W7 made light work of that. Got a few swirl marks that need some attention. A job for a summer evening when the sun goes down a bit.

Happy Easter @Breezy_Pete What do you mean with tweaked? The value in VCDS (adjustment pre/post chain replacement) does not really do anything as far as i could detect. Using ODIS, this option is not available as a part of the official rebuild procedure as well. It's more of a cleanup value/registry then something the ECU using for correlated live data. There is no real variable timing on the CBZA/CBZA because they lack variable intake and/or exhaust phasers. The only timing is when you align the cams with the camsprocket while the piston and cams are in the correct position. You can set timing marks to see if your camsprocket has moved in relation the camshaft (marking the bolt and sprocket) itself but that's basically it. If it's off by by -5 ~ 5 degrees, your ECU can adjust for this by advancing or pulling timing. If you think your camshaft timing is off, there could be a case for a jumped tooth. Only other condition is that the camshaft bolt lost grip and allowed your camshaft to move out of time. Both instances would instantly be noticable with rough idle, misfires, increased consumption and loss of power....or worse, depending on how much it was able to move.

I fear I have a similar issue which I've been trying to tell myself doesn't exist. The vibrations are at similar speeds and also noticeable in the seat but less so on the steering wheel. In addition to all the pot holes on UK roads at the moment I have a lot of speed bumps at my work. I managed to warp 3 wheels on my previous Alfa Guilia which is a common occurrence due to the way they are made. I'm really hoping I haven't done the same again. Planning to get it checked in the not too distant future although it's certainly not as bad as on the Alfa. Cost me nearly £250 to get those ones straightened.... 🫣

Thank you. Just checked, unfortunately no screws 🥴

Have you tried turning off the privacy/data settings then back on again? Also is there a good cellular service where the car is located? Otherwise reset the comms module: Turn the car off, pull fuse 19 (in glovebox), wait 2 minutes, put fuse 19 back in, turn car on and wait 10-15 minutes. This resets the communications module in the car and forces it to search for a signal again. It can take 10-15 minutes so be patient. There have been some cases of failed comms modules in some Elroq and Enyaq models but if you’re getting some data this seems unlikely. If you are still having issues try reporting through the MyŠkoda app (by shaking your phone), they will be able to reset things on their servers for you. Otherwise it’s back to your dealer…

I got it from Skoda Parts Direct - Part number: 5E7061195A (Škoda Octavia Estate 2020-Present Rear Bumper Protector Silver)

For your DNF engine you should stick to low SAPS, as indicated. There are oils falling in the same category, but not VW "approved", which is a matter of commercial convinience between the two manufacturers - car and lubricant - not a guarantee of anything better than the rest..... I do short intervals so I moved away from LL or FE lubricants. I tried also to research extensively on the subject mentioned by Occy about the "different" or "optimized" oil pumps, but I cannot find true and proven information yet ... say part number between a CJXA and a DNUA engine has a different suffix ok, so it implies a variation, but VAG is known for using different suffixes wether there is a technical change ... or not. Currently I am using Fuchs Titan on 5W-40, but I know found a shortcut to the local importer of Pakelo and I am would like to try it next. I expect this summer a quiet season, just a couple hwy long trips 1.5k/2k and that's it, so maybe I will hold until the winter and switch back to a 0W option, although it is not recommended. All mechanics and tuners I know are adamant in staying away from 0W oils and long-time intervals, in between oil being cooked as being too little viscous, thinner and lighter piston and oil scrapers which tend to stick or worse "glue" to the pistons themselves, pistons that have become excessively thin and light ... variable speed/pressure oil pumps ... too much "optimization", with sometimes catastrophic results.

Thanks! I had spotted it, hoping it doesn’t become a project but then again I know it probably will…

Replaced mine along with some other bits.

Also, make sure your car is level when you check the oil. My block is sloping and it's a PITA to accurately check oil levels.

Thanks, I will check the handbook tomorrow.

Many thanks everyone for the useful information.

Here they are. It was too expensive to buy a new car, so i bought another 2 Fabia.

Think it depends on trim level and if its UK or EU. It may be that there is only one as UK law states one is adequate. I assume its LED so if there is no LED light there it would require a new unit plus probably VCDS to tell car its fitted. If there is an LED unit there then it may be possible to tell car to operate it. Alasdair

Under normal driving conditions the alternator will only charge the battery to around 75-80% - leaving headspace for regenerative charging during braking/overrun. Strongly recommend adaptation (coding) of the new battery to the BMS.

I agree with Evolution in some respects. I do a fair bit of city driving, always in Eco mode and coast where I can. I have the 2 litre diesel and my average over the last 6 months is 39 mpg. There's something seriously amiss with Tom-Kodiaq's car. It's curious that he doesn't mention getting the car back to the dealership for investigation.

Washed the 280 for the first time in a couple of months. Bloody Sahara dust. It’d stopped beading so it needed a new coating of ceramic wax. I use Turtle Wax Ceramic. I also replaced the air quality sensor with a Chinese “copy” (are they, or are they actually pattern parts?) unit I bought from Ali two or three years ago, as I knew it’d fail at some point. I think it was £13, maybe less. Anyway it works perfectly.

Thank you. I found the exact location that the original was taken (thanks to Google street view). I'd post it here but fear that my sheer animal magnetism would disrupt some Briskodian marriages 🤓

Sounds relevant. Hopefully others with similar cars can comment. Your fuel consumption sound ridiculous.

This seems to be about my level. There is one button. You push it. Then you leave everything alone and go and have a cup of tea or several. I can beat your wife (I probably could have put that better) as mine has been in a senior management role for 52 years, all of them blissfully happy , or so it says on the directive I've just been passed.... Co-incidentally just before I read you post I opened a letter from my garage (how old school is that?) reminding me of my MOT and I'm about due for a service. Thank you for the advice. I'll be back to the forum with my next crisis shortly.

I'm not sure if my Yeti has the same engine as yours or if it could be related but several years ago I had a constant smell of oil in the car, really noticeable when driving. A local garage had a look at it for me but couldn't find anything but didn't charge me. For which I'm thankful. I'm not really mechanically minded but decided nothing to lose by having a bit of a poke around (just fingers, no tools so whilst I might have electrocuted myself hopefully I'd not damage the car). Doing this I found a loose pipe, maybe 8mm diameter which should have connected to one arm of a tee joint but it had broken. Stiffness in the three pipes meant it wasn't obvious to the eye there was a break. A quick search on eBay and I found the little three arm connector for a couple of pounds, carefully removed the broken piece of pipe from the tube (I didn't want it to disappear into the engine through my clumsiness), connected the three hoses and the problem was solved! Once I'd found the break it was five minutes work even for the technically challenged. (Or four hours labour plus parts at a main dealer; me? cynical? how dare you!). I didn't have any noticeable oil leak, or maybe I just didn't notice, but yours might be a similar situation. Worth having a good prod around and see if anything moves more than you think it should?

Just for info, I have DNFE 2021 with 77k km, My throttle body just died. I found on the internet 3 cases the same modification of the engine EA888 gen4 with same problem. The car is in limp mode 1500rpm max. Errors are P2101 , P2100 and P0638. I`m waiting new throttle body to be delivered from the local VAG store is 568 euro, 20 euro gasket and four new bolts 1.5 Euro per bolt.

It’s got the reverse camera with lines. And traffic sign recognition. No seats down from the boot Is there a variable boot floor available, on these? Few things being sorted. New windscreen non genuine replaced and coded in. Paint touch ups. Wheels refurbed. Second umbrella supplied. Replaced drivers mat. Touch up pen supplied, wheel centre caps replaced. 2 year warranty's etc etc used approved extras with cancelable finance. The stitching on the drivers leather needs attention they won’t do this. Need someone around the midlands to look at that Was oil serviced. AC serviced/refreshed. Front disks and pads and 2 new rear tyres. Wipers replaced. Key fob batteries replaced. Brake fluid replaced. Have to wait to collect once ready price also reduced to 24k from 25k must be a timing thing.

Sorry typo - September 2021. Fat fingers, bad eyesight and declining mental abilities not ideal for existing in the modern world. But not a bad description of a lot of us Yeti owners 🙂. (See, it's only us old 'uns that think the original smiley face is still cool. Or use the word cool).

A few from today................

This landed on the windscreen earlier. Initially thought Mosquito although Google image search reckons it's a 'Non-biting Midge'

For everyone interested, I put the newest versions ALL in ONE link: MIB3_Skoda_SW_1941_1969_1985_1989 I upgraded with this files one by one, no issues. Hope it helped.

I'm updating this thread because I just replaced the 4 Primacy 4 tires with 45,000 km for the new Primacy 5 tires and installed them at the specialist workshop where I installed the Koni SA tires. There are no vibrations whatsoever, and the car runs better than when I bought it.

2.8? its insanely High. on my car it shows 2.5 bar. did somebody tell you or just you saw this sticker on your car body?

Superb 2025 has to be with 2.8 bar. That is recommendation listed from dealership.