Leaderboard

Hi all. Dave from London here in my green wagon

@lol-lol I went and drove the big one and the small one last year. The small one was just fine for size / parking. Like the porridge and the 3 bears. I have a Main Dealer close and a Maxus tech as a neighbour.

With regards with HG when testing i did keep all sparks removed and removed all caps off the engine to allow pressure release which it didnt drop. I will try the injector trick you mentioned just to be on the safe side but am thinking more and more its valve related.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Not completely impossible to destroy a new clutch in 8 weeks - but would almost certainly be due to damage or incorrect fitting during replacement. If your garage refuse warranty replacement, insist on having an independent inspection done.

Thanks both! Seems there's a chance my car has a fair bit more life left in it. I live in a cold region, but not quite to the same extent as the Nordic region. I will proceed with the maintenance with this in mind, hoping to keep the car for many more years!

Thank you very much! I will search and try to follow your instructions.🙏🏻

@audiexp You have Columbus infotainment, and your software is quite a bit out of date. 1989 is the latest version, but there were quite a few others between that and 1803. Not entirely sure you can update straight from one to the other, my own car was running 1896 when I first got it and I was able to update straight to 1985 with that, which I did thanks to some really helpful guides posted here in this forum. So going off my own experience only, I would suggest to try a search for 1896, I'm pretty sure a link to download it has been posted here at some point, and I'd imagine you could go from 1803 to that in one step, although I don't know for sure if I'm being honest! But if you do manage to get to 1896, thej I know for a fact that you can go straight from that to 1985, again, a link to download that has been posted here on numerous occasions. I actually stayed on 1985 as 1989 was causing issues for those who updated to it initially. If all of this (and everything else you find via searching this forum) seems a little bit overwhelming, then I would recommend getting in touch with @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits who can help you out with not only infotainment updates, but any other outstanding updates your car has fell behind on. Good luck!

A couple of years ago the Maxxus 9 was dreadful but typical Chinese it got much better very fast. Was some mad lease miles deals, under £100. SAIC brand and they bought LDV of course.

@skomaz Yes, with some more standard equipment.

How soon after the clutch was replaced did it start to show signs of slippage again?

West End Skoda have a bit of a history of people having issues with replacement clutch issues. I know Clutches are a Wear & Tear issue. So does the 2 Years Parts & labour warranty count for nothing. Are you a RAC member for a Engineers Report. ????? How many miles were covered in that 8 weeks. Talk to the Dealer Principal and get in writing what they are saying about their technicians work carried out on your car and it being 'Driver error'. You might need a specialist engineers report. From now on maybe use http://autohausedinburgh.co.uk Proper Master Techs.

Yes that is my model and it was at an edinburgh dealership. Sighthill.

https://www.icarsoft.eu/iCarsoft-VAWS-V3.0 https://www.diagnostic-world.com/pages/more_information__icarsoft_vaws_v30_enhanced_2026_version__vw_audi_seat_skoda_bentley__lamborghini_multi_systemfunction_obd2_diagnostic_reset__coding_tool__official_icarsoft_product_275567.cfm

Something is definitly not right with c3. If it was the rings etc you should have had an improvement. Reckon HG has gone on c3 and maybe tracked slightly to C4. You could try a pressure leak down test to see if you can hear compressed air leaking or guage drops quickly. Each cylinder at TDC and I think its around 100psi From memory there is some normal air leakage of around 10% but with those readings unless its a valve spring I reckon head has to come off. Another thought before removing head is try some soapy water around inectors etc and look for bubbles when cranking just in case its leaking there but think it would be noticeable with the low pressure readings. Alasdair

Unfortunately, I don't have such an option on my MIB3 infotainment system. I've looked through everything in the car and haven't found the option. I'm quite proficient at this, and I think if it were an option in the car, I could handle it. I think it's a matter of updating, but I'm looking for confirmation from someone who has had a similar problem.

I have a stock rs230 from 2015 and it does the DSG "fart" on upshifts. That's normal.

As the Field Measures service campaign was issued before your warranty expired, I'd think you have a good case for this work to be non-chargeable.

Just turn off the battery management option. It doesn't really do anything apart from limiting your ability to charge to 100%. As mentioned, Skoda, or VW for that matter, cannot invalidte your warranty because you charge to 100%.

I think it's because you look after them by changing the oil frequently 👍

This is the tool i used icarsoft vaws 3.0 - Google Search I got it from Diagnostic World and done the updates on it, I was just unsure to start wit as i didn't want to start something i couldn't get out of. When i first finished putting the new battery in the stop/ Start only worked when i put the car into park position, after a short drive it worked properly. Thanks again everyone always get useful information.

Could be as you said a vacuum leak . Check the pipes from servo for cracking etc. If you pump pedal with engine off till hard and keep foot on pedal and start car if the servo is working the pedal should drop slightly. It may be a slight leak that once the car is running its generating enough vacuum to compensate for any leakage. Meant to add if the pump is electric check the wiring to it plus any related fuses for looseness/corosion. Might be worth getting it scanned to see if there are any stored codes that could point to the problem. Alasdair

To clarify, my 2025 Karoq has Matrix headlights and a manual changeover in the menus.

I have soon 450tkm and running strong. Only body rust is top off skirts near rear wheels. Skirt and bottom of car not bad. Now seems that rear bushings etc are little bit worn but cheap to fix.

Update According to my Skoda dealer, towbar kits and coding have been release by Skoda. After a long discussion and wrangling, my car is going into the Skoda dealer's workshop for coding and if necessary, a Skoda wiring kit . . Do not have a price yet, I am trying to have it done FOC .. but whether it is free or not I must have it done .. .------------------------------- If anyones interested .. a Skoda towbar , mechanically folding one (that would be where you’d release it by hand to fold away and out), fully supplied and fitted, you are looking at £1879.62.

Mine 2012 Superb Kombi 1.6TDI has 425 000km on the clock and just recentlyI changed timing belt+water pump. Oli change every max 10 000km and engine still running smootly! I’m in Nordic region with proper four seasons. Rust is an issue, but prevenitve bodyceare will help to stop this process.

It will restrict flow, along with the carbon buildup, DPF, catalytic converter, EGR system, backbox, resonator(s), the OE downpipe diameter, exhaust tubing, bends, joins and seals, along with the (if we're being specific) the turbo turbine housing and intake elbow. It's a TDI. If you're mentioning restrictions and haven't gutted the DPF and done an EGR/swirl flap delete, you need to do some more research. Without a photo, there isn't much we can work with - a 'thing' by the heat shield isn't very specific.

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED When investigating the dpf pressure sensor itself, I opened up the heatshield to discover a molten mass of plastic. The sensor was toast. Ordered a new one (part no. 03L906051D) along with another plug which was also toast.......ebay was £40 cheaper than main dealer for the same part. No idea why it would have totally melted but hope the new one will survive better. Worthy of note is that the sensor has two pipe connections but confusingly, only one pipe coming from the engine........after putting in a call to the (very helpful) Skoda dealer, it seems one port is simply left open to the air (atmospheric pressure). Now I'm waiting patiently (not) for the part to arrive. Thanks to all who commented.

Today Škoda Superb L&K 2018 140kw 2.0 TDI 4x4 car had rear and front discs and rear and front brake pads replaced. Mileage: 151 823 km New discs from Zimmermann Front: 100.3300.20 Rear: 600.3252.20 Total: €172.81 New brake pads from TRW: Front: GDB1956 Rear: GDB1957 Total: €55.12 Discs and brake pads in total: €227.93

Palmer Motorsport McLaren Artura Apparently they take the hybriddiddy bit out first

LS: 151596 km Škoda Superb L&K 2018 - The driver's door no longer locked. A new lock was ordered, Topran 623629 - Price €39 and replacement €90. Now everything is OK!

An upgraded filter will do absolutely nothing. No performance gains. No extra power, no throttle response, nothing. Barely any audible difference (a clean OE Mann/Bosch/etc filter will probably do more). Absolute waste of money - it will simply make no difference on a stock car, or even a car at stage 1, 2 or 3. An upgraded intake will also do nothing for performance (unless you're tuned enough to need it - my guess is less than five cars on this entire forum fit this category). That being said, a cold air intake will sound much better - although you want something that is a duct design (like the Racingline R600 or Forge example) rather than an open cone design. The latter severely increases the risk of water and/or crap ingress into the turbo. The only restrictive part in the stock system is the elbow. If you're going above stage 2 equivalent, you'll want to change this out. I know someone with north of 500bhp in a vRS230 that is running the stock air box and intake pipe, with an upgraded elbow. Likewise for the turbo muffler delete - absolutely pointless in irrelevant, unless you're running a built hybrid turbo G82 with 1000bhp (which would probably benefit from an upgraded air filter, to go with it's monsterous open cone intakes). Sorry to say, but all this talk of increased air and fuel flow is rubbish. The EA888 isn't really a performance engine. Even in an RS6, changing the air intake has no bearing on air flow. There are so many additional factors at play. If you were to hybrid turbo the car, after doing a downpipe, catback and the rest of the mods, I still doubt you'd need to do anything to the fuel system beside putting in a Golf R fuel pump. Similarly, you do not need to be thinking about which petrol to put in your car. An Octavia vRS is't a performance car. If it is, then it is at the absolute rock bottom (for the record, a performance car is something that begins with M or RS, or has AMG, Ferrari or McLaren in the name). The difference between '95' and '99' fuels (and others) are a few things. Firstly, the more premium fuels have a higher octane. This makes no difference unless you are driving a 488 Pista, or a heavily tuned car. It is true that your car may run a little better (higher mpg, etc), but this is only true because a given amount of fuel has more 'go' in it - it's a moot point, as the more effective fuel, is more expensive. This difference is also quoted to be around 2%. Not worth it. The second difference is the (bio)ethanol content - E5 vs E10. E10 is the cheaper stuff, and contains, you guessed it, 10% of bioethanol. This stuff isn't the kindest to seals, hoses, etc, but unless you're driving a Mk1 GTI, you should be absolutely fine. The nicer fuels tend to have up to 5% of bioethanol in them (sometimes none), which makes them older car friendly. Finally, the premium fuels also contain additives and cleaning agents that help keep things running smoothly. This is the only real advantage of using premium fuels and, even then, can likely be achieved by using a bit of 99 once every few fill-ups. Stick an OE air filter in the car and spend the difference on half a tank of 99. Job done. P.S. @JohnMack an Octavia vRS Challenge is a standard Octavia with lots of options stock. IIRC, for the 2019MY, this included stuff like front sensors, ACC, electrically adjustable memory seats, folding mirrors, Canton Sound (?) and some alcantara seats, among other bits. Weirdly, it didn't include the digi dash. There is no mechanical difference from a vRS 245 which is, of course, a GTI PP underneath.

If there is actually increased airflow, then there needs increased fuel consumption. If the engine management actually then means you get more performance is something to check out with dyno runs, and cold air being taken in. As far as being worth while then using E5 Super unleaded 97 or 99 ron minimum is a no brainer. If it matters getting maybe a second quicker to 70 mph.

Simple test - Is your gear selector a stalk to the left of the steering wheel? If so then this is the right forum. If the gear selector is in the centre console you have a Mk 3 Superb and you need to ask in the associated forum.

I don't think that there is a diesel Kamiq, or for that matter, a Karoq. Petrol cars, although more complex than they used to be, don't have nearly so many issues. No DPF, although they do have aGPF (not nearly so many issues), no EGR valve, no Adblue pump.

My hobby is plastic modelling...have a couple built by Skoda. 38(t) ausf f 1/16 scale 35 munitions carrier in 1/35 scale. Can post up pictures if any interest

Hi Jack, welcome. You could also try your local VWSkoda Dealership, probably best to avoid excessively busy times, but politely asking should get you a "complete record" printed off on paper from their machines, best to take your V5C or a note of your VIN in to ensure they get the right car though perhaps the registration should be sufficient you always want to check and cross reference any information you get from any source (including the internet and manufacturers) with if possible two other (hopefully) reliable sources as all databases have errors and omissions. The "complete record" can only give you what has been recorded on it, which even if complete won't be too much and sometimes can be not a lot after initial delivery when new, so have a look at things like MoT history (freely available online) and any other sources. Full service history means a lot less in recent times to decades back as, VW servicing in particular, is little more than engine oil and filter change and a visual check for other chargeable work, there's also a "maintenance" schedule which older folk at least would consider part of servicing. A tip I give to all new, and current, owners of particularly later cars is to buy and use, in a preventative manner, an appropriate (12v) car battery charger maintainer if they want the battery to last a reasonable time of life and give good service and to avoid hassle and car issues on the car from the battery getting too low. Too low is before any warning messages and lights and well before the engine has any difficulty starting, the complex computer systems don't like low battery charge and can make you suffer in unexpected ways for your mistake. Just because the engine starts and the lights seem brighter enough doesn't mean the battery isn't in a low state of charge. Which leads me on to my second tip, read the Owner's Manual as soon as possible (before buying the car is best) and refer to it and you could save yourself time, hassle and money, despite what some think it's not illegal in any way for a man (particularly "tradesmen") to read instructions. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models VWSkoda "update portal" - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ VWSkoda "Recall Campaigns" (well the ones they admit to) - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns HTH. Good luck. Below an old servicing and maintenance schedule (so out-of-date pricing) to give you an idea of the (limited) work that might have been carried out by VWSkoda Dealership. Independent garages or owners can contribute to service data systems too.

Hello, can anyone help! I have a kamiq and at 55,000 my car suddenly failed, teva burning smell and no power. Was told it needed a clutch replacement and brakes replacement. £2,500. I questioned this as I’ve been driving for 34 years and never burnt out a clutch. I was forced to pay. I had raised questions about the car having a fault. Was told it was driver error. Fast forward 8 weeks and my clutch failed again - the same burning smell. Garage are unbelievably wanting £1,500 to replace again!!! How is this even possible. I do not drive any mad way and certainly don’t ’ride The clutch’.

Cambelt.- CamBeltchangechange.pdf

I’ve been making sure I don’t overfill ever since the light issue first started, and it still always comes back on. Fuel cap also looks fine. I ended up taking it to a different garage - they scanned the code and just went ahead and replaced the valve+hose assembly, for nearly £400. Two weeks later and the light is back on.