Leaderboard

Short answer - depends on what the issues are doing - is the car actually faulty just because the systems aren't fully funtioning. You need to check with someone, that really knows, (a properly trained person in these matters) at your insurers. This you can also use to hopefully speed up getting the issue(s) sorted. Longer answer - first, 'blokes' on the internet can give their opinions and (remembered) experience, such as I'm doing, but what about knowlege, training and qualifications, personally I (ETA) don't have any in this area but how would you check if I said I did. If these systems can, freely, be turned off by the driver, usually going through driver computer menus or on switches near the driver then obviously there is a choice about their use so they're not mandatory - but - if your insurance is based on their use that would be another matter, and no doubt (ETA) anyway if there was an accident the non-use would be noted. Any system, whether used or not, doesn't take away the driver's responsibility to actually driver and control the car. If the faults in the system(s) doesn't interfere or hinder with the car being driven properly by the driver then them not working (if not mandatory) doesn't matter. Good piont about recording anything on an open public (or any) website, if you need to ask about anything that you think might (I don't think it will) get you into any trouble then contact the correct appropriate people non-publicily, it might still be recorded of course. Good luck.

Every Gaz has its day

Predictable as ever... 🤣

A smart phone or a computer is ideal for asking what say. what is 32psi in bar? 2.2.

After several very warm hours outside yesterday and a very helpful person from the VAG - MIB2 telegram channel I have a working MIB2.5 system with 9.2" screen. Somehow when attempting the first update I completely wiped the emmc which holds the operating system etc. Using UART connector, putty, python and some other clever stuff it all got put back together. Incredibly happy now. I would like to change the home screen layout though. Massive map is a bit unnecessary.

Thanks & Hi. My 2011 insignia estate is kappot (spun crank bearings). Hoping to build up knowledge on what to look for when buying a VRS Estate. Thanks

Hi all, Long time lurker, finally pulled the trigger on a mk3.5 superb l&k iV. Really impressed so far, very comfortable, great on fuel and plenty of space for the family. Came from a Leon fr, so getting used to not chucking into the bends 😅. Hope everyone is enjoying the recent good weather in the uk. I look forward to contributing to the forum, already had a good look about the various topics on here and can feel my wallet getting lighter. Cheers, Jay

Well ive only had the car since Saturday, so not done much as yet, just lil niggly things, checked fluids and changed Air & cabin filters, replaced the missing parcel shelf cord, put the dash cam in ( temporary cable till the hard wire kit is taken out of the Exeo) ordered an umbrella ( both were missing) and also one of the sun shields ( like an umbrella) which luckily fits into the hole in the drivers door panel for the umbrella, fitted a screen protector for the 9.2" screen, ran updates for the Head Unit / Nav system and also plugged in ( cant say fitted) a car play adaptor thing and ordered MORE lil bits and pieces that ive seen on other posts ,,, not goin to mention any names .... but you know who you are 🤣

Sorry was for the Other User

Hi. I have a 2019 1.5 tsi on 60.500 miles. Its had every service and has always been looked after by the same Skoda/VW dealership. I have the All In plan and this will expire in Dec. Approx 2 months ago it developed a sudden onset engine noise. Its a tappety type noise that was most evident under load when pulling away or accelerating hard. In late April the dealer looked at it and couldnt identify a cause without stripping the head off - I was quoted £1400 for just disassembly. I was informed if it wasnt a warranteeable fault I would be liable for any repair and reassembly costs. As the car drove without any issue it was suggested I took it away and drove to see if it worsened or a major fault occurred. Fast forward 5 weeks and whilst driving I got an 'oil sensor fault' message and 'engine rpm reduced to 3ooo rpm' and went into limp mode. This was accompanied by a great deal more noise. I attempted to carefully continue my short drive but the engine water temp went off the scale. AA recovery under the warranty attended and identified various HISTORIC fault codes including a couple relating to the ACT system. The AA guy reckoned the belt/chain had a issue with either stretching or a guide had failed. The engine noise was massively worse and was audible at all times including tickover. Its been checked over by the master tech at the dealership who has found the fault codes relate to just a failed fuse. This has been replaced and the car now operates properly. But still has the noise which the dealership accept is much worse then 5 weeks ago. They suggest its not as bad as when it was recovered as the oil sensor fuse failure would be responsible for a certain amount of noise. But what about the 'Historic' fault codes relating to the ACT/camshaft/belt/chain? My laymans understanding is a historic code is over a week old - so predates the sensor issue as a fuse either works or doesnt? And an engine at just 60k on an automatic gearbox shouldnt sound like this and not be a warranty issue surely? I cant sell the car in the state and no-one would take it as a part-ex. Has anyone any helpful suggestions please or similar experiences? Thanks!

The filesystem on the usb stick is for sure not affected. Most likely something blocks the update on the MIB3 unit side. I will report this issue to my workshop as the car is still on warranty period. I just wondered if there is any harmless unofficial method to push this somehow. Is the factory reset for infotainment feasible here?

Has the engine ever been run with low oil or coolant levels? Did the sudden onset of the noise coincide with any service work? Engine noise that you describe cannot be normal - did your Dealership advise against driving the vehicle until the cause of the noise was correctly diagnosed? Significant increase of noise under acceleration sounds more like bottom end (crank or connecting rods) to me.

Hi, Today I dropped my car off at the dealership to have this problem fixed. They called me and told me they would replace the main unit of the infotainment system. They actually did. I picked it up and they informed me that the replacement was done. There was no other way to fix the problem. Even though 2 years had passed (that's how long the warranty is in Greece) they told me that the entire cost was covered by them. After 3 years, however, I would have a problem. I am sending 2 photos, before and after. you can see the differences in hardware and software. Newer hardware with older software version than what is available. It's 1969. Maybe 1989 would be appropriate, I don't know, I guess.

^^^ Love it, and if i had a spare 1/2 half a million i would not buy one, nor even 1/4 of a million if they ever get that cheep. A car looking just the same and with a 2 litre petrol engine would great.,

Carnoustie to Tealing is healed. Tealing Substation has been where it is for years. That was a huge pig farm there after having been an aerodrome. Kintore is huge and getting bigger and has been where it is for 90 years. The objections are now the huge pylons running from North to South and South of Scotland from the Substations, and Substation to Substation. ............. People used to object to Pig Farms.

Hi Jim , do you have the My Škoda App ? I can certainly see and download a certificate of all the things my Karoq has

Sounds like you need to reject the car then as not as ordered and they need to get you a correctly specified replacement

Good shout but no banana

As Evolution13 put I also use something that computers are good for, calculations, to go from bar to psi, and 32psi is 2.2 bar, 17" wheels/tyres on the label on my wife's car. In this heat 36psi (on all four tyres, 5 if you carry a spare in the boot) is fine especially if you consider you could be at 35psi for 'ECO' setting (too hard/harsh feeling ride on the tyres on my wife's car for our liking). The Halfords electronic guage my wife bought me can be switched between different stagards of measurement but I keep it on psi (mainly because the instruction sheet font is too small for my eyes). KwikFit fitter needs to pay more attention and/or needs more training as I can't think of a reason to inflate to 45psi (3.1 Bar) other than perhaps mistaking 3.1 for 2.1 perhaps but not for someone in his job. To go from even 30psi to 35psi will make a noticable diffrence to the car's handling and ride let alone 45psi. In the olden days, when it was all fields around here, a tyre place might overinflate the tyres to get them "scrubbed in" for a short while before you dropped the pressure to usual and even for sports cars you might wheel spin and brake on the trading estate road to get the "grease" from the tyres a bit quicker but that was different times and different tyre componds. The 2017 tyre monitoring computer program must be tighter than for the 2015 if it notices smaller differences in tyre pressure/wheel rotation, that seems to have very wide parameters. Personally if I've taken the car into a tyres place (rather than just the wheel(s) loose) after getting back I always loosen off all the wheel nuts and torque them up to correct number using my cheap torque wrench that way I knew (after the 30-50 miles check) that I could get the wheel nuts off easily if needed same if a wheel(s) have been off at a garage. I leave the black plastic wheel nut covers off to remind me to do the 30-50 miles check, just decades of being a customer/victim of the UK motor trade.. My latest (manual, double-barrael) footpump has an electrionic guage seems quite accurate, well at the moment anyway but modern pumps only seem to last a few years, 5 at most, where as the PCL type I've had since the 1970s (and Halfords a good few years now) but I've no idea if the later/latest made ones are as good.

I'm just going through this today. Took the car to a local independent VAG specialist this morning for a regas as it suddenly started to make hissing sounds and odd noises when first swiching on. Also an alarming squeal at one point. When i demonstarted mine to the Skoda tech (we were out on a test drive for other issues...) he suggested a regas but said they couldn't actually do the new type of refrigerant that their site! Suggested i took it elsewhere... I guess you have the older type of refrigerant as on my 2019 mk3 its around £140. They should of done a pressure test first to check for leaks as mine did, who didn't find a leak and it all looked good. He went to regas it and it refused to continue due to a leak somewhere, not sure why that would happen if it didn't detect anything initially. Tried the UV die but couldn't see anything. So now looking at replacing the condensor which apparently is a common issue as can take a hit from a stone or something. Thats an almost a £500 job... As for the squealing sound, probably the clutch on the compressor which you can't replace separately so that would be a compressor change, another £500.... Luckily they didn't charge me for today, which was great of them really. You are probably going to have to take it somewhere due to the specialist equipment required.

AI has it right this time.

Thank you! I have one of those info plates in my fuel cap and although I can't readily convert bar to psi I looked it up once and I'm pretty sure it said 32 for single driver and 34-36 for a load, but I will check again. I was just baffled that Kwikfit had left them so high and thought maybe it was for a reason, but it seems not. I lowered them to 34 this morning at 7.30 in the shade and reset the monitoring system. I didn't want to go too low in case they were still higher because of the heat, but will check again tomorrow and if necessary lower again to 32 until I next have a load on. I haven't driven the car since. Not keen on the monitoring system anyway because it often warns "loss of pressure detected" in hot weather, but when I check they are fine. Annoying to have to stop, and sometimes come off a motorway to check. Good tip about the wheel nut torque. They didn't give me any of that information. I will get one of those pressure gauges too. At the moment I'm just relying on my own electric pump.

If you've not already seen it, along with all the other sections and forums on this site is the Fabia section including Fabia Mk3, Fabia Guides and Fabia Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Good luck.

Belinda, on my wife's 2015 Faia Mk3 the pressures are as photo below (I think, but check, a 2017 is the same), for two or three passengers and luggage it's 30 psi (35 psi for 'ECO' setting) on 14", 15" and 16" wheels. Info on label inside fuel filler flap, as photo. You need to reset the tyre pressures as to what is appropriate for you model (and wheel size) when the tyres are 'cold' (usually early morning or later at night). The weather temperature will make a difference to the pressure, about every 10c increase in weather temperatures inflates by 1-2psi. Once you have the tyres correctly set then reset the tyre monitor - DO NOT rely on ANY computer system to warn you about what might be wrong with your car (computers get things wrong, can be set too wide and have brain-farts) do all the driver maintenance checks yourself. You need to use good reliable consistent tyre pressure guages rather than those at petrol stations, garages and on pumps that will vary and perhaps be inaccurate anyway, good reliable consistent tyre pressure guages don't need to be expensive and last for decades. Or the good reliable one (at the time(?)) one my wife bought me a number of years ago. - Lastly, the tyre place should have told you that the wheel nut torque (how tight they were done up) should be checked after 30-50 miles to make sure, rarely do they loosen as most places overtighten despite using a torquwrench at the end (a waste of time often after using the air "rattlegun" to overtighten the wheelnuts). They should also have told you to take it easy on your new tyres for the first 100 miles (200 if wet) and not to over brake the car. These advices might be on any leaflet or paperwork you got from them. If your tyres were at 45 psi and you lower them to even 36 psi you should notice a difference in handling. Good luck let us know how you get on.

I’m sure the warranty is 6 months so I’m going to contact them just now. The downshifts sometimes can be quite jolting, which I suspect isn’t normal. It’s my very first automatic. I only use my right foot so no problems there lol

I'd think that the re-gas that you got would have done the minimum by law to check for leaks, and just regassed it - but there is a small leak and you now using that AC system in this current heat wave is lifting the fridge gas pressure up enough to force it out of that small leak where ever it is, though I hate to say this, if you are getting a "different" smell inside the car, it might just have an evaporator leak - that part is inside the passenger cabin and is quite expensive for ant repair place to get access to! My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, does have a leak in its AC system, I've paid to have it recharged maybe 4 years in a row - hot weather only exists up here in Scotland for a few weeks a year, so getting it recharged at the start of the hot period typically had it staying working for 3 months! For the past maybe 3 years I've not done that as and the pessimist in me "says it is a leak in the evaporator" - I've bought the evaporator and new O-ring seals, but not got round to that job yet. Cooler weather tomorrow hopefully up here in Scotland - or using it tomorrow in rush hour traffic will be - challenging!! Edit:- if you have a fully VAG compliant scan tool, then you can find the AC stored fault code which should be "low pressure" - or any other AC fault codes that might assist you or a fixer to sort this out - but I'd reckon that it will have lost its fridge gas charge, or at least enough of it - through a system leak.

That is the airbag control unit part number, and it is correct for your car. partslink24 also has the "T2C" string seen in the Component field of your screenshot, as a further suffix after the 'K'. Shown as "6R0 959 655 K T2C" I would suggest that this is the original unit, but can't be certain. Before you ask, I have no idea about coding, or what T2C means, or anything much at all about airbag systems, sorry.

It reverses pretty quick so I tend to keep foot on the brake while doing so.

Octavia Estate Mk4 SEL First Edition SEL (2021) Hardware: H56 Software: 1896 Display Unit /control panel hardware: H44 Display Unit /control panel hardware:: 2088 Navigation Database: 23.8 Media Codec: 3.1.4 Appreciate the long road many have had to navigate to get their Infotainment system to work and, being a relatively new owner of a Skoda Approved Used car need to sort out the mess that I have. Booked in with Skoda dealership, under original manufacturer warranty, to sort, which I know will likely just be a software update to 1941. Probably going to have to suck up software update solution initially, which I am not 100% convinced alone is the full answer. Any advice others can offer as, to be honest, I really wonder wether it needs a replacement MCU, SOS module or other hardware replaced. The prospect of repeat visits to workshop to get issues resolved is far from ideal. These are the list of issues: 1. Reboots once or twice (Usually at start of journey). 2. Double pop noise from the dashboard (every journey). 3. SOS unit becoming non functioning / going "offline" (virtually every journey) 4. SAT Nav randomly goes haywire offsetting position of vehicle by 100 - 300 metres approximately for duration of journey - applies to built in Sat Nav and also Carplay Tom Tom Go. Required forced reboot (On occasion). 5. Unable to become Primary User (Constant). 6. Settings taking a long time to load or fail to load completely requiring forced reboot (Periodically). 7. Sometime system hangs completely and solution seems to be holding SOS button in for over a minute which seems to force a reboot (Occasionally). It's such a great car and Infotainment system is fine, when it works, but it is currently so unreliable that it detracts from the enjoyment of driving the car. It's also a safety issue as the other day I was on a long drive, predictably the Infotainment system had gone offline but later in the journey the Sat Nav went haywaire. Tried rebooting using the On/Off button but repeatedly got stuck on Loading settings. Only solution was to press the SOS button for over a minute which rebooted system and then reboot using On/Off button. A time consuming process and not ideal driving on the M4 motorway. Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance.

Talking of bad influence of this forum 🤪 i bought my superb so i will finally have car that doesn't need anything else out of the box....10k + spent later i wonder 😂

What you do is replace the Coolant Bottle with one without a Silica (Silicate) Bag. Then a different coolant should be used.

@Binx1310 "Links in my thread" You Sir are enough of a Bad Influence as it is,,,, ive ALREADY got stuff on order from links youve posted,,, and some of them were ordered BEFORE i bought the car 😇

THANK YOU @pab567 ive finished updating the main SW and the maps too, only one error with Gracenote but i remember MIB-Helper having something about that, just need to do the Radio Stations and POIs (and gracenote too) is it possible to make my system connect to carplay wirelessly without any 3rd party dongles??

@nta16 OOOPS ... Sorry Nigel,ive spent the last month searching for a Superb with the spec i wanted ( or most of it) at the price range i could afford i forget that theres other cars made by Skoda 🤪 i will try and remember that some of the forums are individual and not all in the Superb category im always learning, and yes ive spent almost every night since i decided what car to get checking on what was easier, finding the car with spec i wanted or finding a car and retro fitting it to what i wanted, but there are sooo many contadictions on different posts as the car is 9years old, ive got 9 years (sometimes more) of posts to searchnot just here but other sites and forums too 🫠

The end of a very hot day 🥵

I'm back with a another update! Version 7 - Download the HTML to view. Notes: Here's the verified V7 chart. Click the amber banner at the top to see the full changes log. Here's a summary of what was found and corrected across BriSkoda, Polish SuperbClub, German SkodaCommunity, and Allegro.pl. Updated images to SVG renders. skoda_steering_wheels_v7.html

MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 (MU: 1440) is the most recent firmware. Use regular SD card, minimum 8GB. You can go directly to it, no need for any "bridge".

I’m not a massive fan either; however the Santa Fe looks massive but dimensionally only like 3cm longer and wider than my Superb estate. I think the boxyness makes it look bigger than it is

After somewhat +/- 6 months of searching, finally got summer shoes for my swan Tyres are not what it should be, but will have to do for the time being

In less time than you spent taking, composing and uploading your photos and description you could have cut off the offending piece of plastic.

Try search in GPSpower This is a download link https://dfiles.eu/files/owdahinfu

All this seems a lot of faffing about. I can't even see if my Infotainment system is Bolero, Columbus or Amundsen (2021 Octavia Estate iV). How do I tell - is there an "About" screen-tap somewhere giving the name and version? I think I'll revert to my windscreen mounted Garmin; using GPS coordinates it is quick, easy and precise - and I can do it all before I get in the car.

I ordered a set of these from AliExpress but now having second thoughts RE insurance not liking them. Has anyone else had any issue?