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Evolution13, thanks for your very detailed response - I will shop around for a better and more appropriate service.

Same here with a Seat Mib2 high running on the Seat FeC this time.... so Xmas comes early.

Hi forum users, I'll introduce myself. Since this month I'm driving my 3rd Skoda. The first was an Octavia Estate 1.6 FSI from 2006, the second a Superb Estate 1.8 TSI from 2010 and now I'm a proud owner of a Superb Estate 1.4 iV L&K from 2021. What a great car! I was already member of a Dutch Skoda forum, but for more tips and tricks I registered myself on BRISKODA as well. Regards, Bjorn

My Audi A4 is successfully updated. Cheers

FWIW, they’re the same engine!

It is Maxton Design V2, bought it from Kopacek. Adds a lot to the look of front, love it. Also since last update I've added Rieger rear diffuser and Maxton sideskirts. Exterior is now complete for my liking. Yes it is L&K and maybe you should not do that, but I don't care, I do whatever I want 😁

Yesterday I drove 80 miles and so far so good. All dry around the expansion tank, coolant level dropped a bit but id expect that for the first few days. I am hoping this has resolved the issues. So to summarise issues, Hunting and canting engine Coolant loss Lots of "soot" out the exhaust Occasional whisps of white smoke from the exhuast No loss of performance was noted No error codes I started with the EGR cooler as I didnt have coolant escaping from the reservoir, this was tested for leaks and confirmed to be bad so it was replaced. This made coolant spill out of the reservoir. We spent some time looking at heating / cooling elements like radiator and confirmed a bad thermostat and a possible charge air cooler leak, the latter was suspected as it was quite wet in the cooler. As we were taking the cooler off to replace the thermostat we also replaced the charge cooler. None of this resolved the complaint so we did and sniff test and confirmed combustion gasses in the cooling system, the earlier test did not show this as a concern. I suspect the EGR cooler was releasing pressure and gasses into the exhaust. We chose to bypass the EGR cooler to test if it was a new bad part but the issues remained. So we pulled the head and confirmed there was spots where it was likely that the HG had failed, head tested and confirmed to be okay. Car rebuilt, all conditions, hunting engine and canting is resolved, smoother drive and generally a nicer place to be. So, what does all of this mean, how do you know if its HG failure? I would say the easiest way is if you are getting a hunting / canting from the engine and or an subtle but odd "cracking" type noise that cycles with the canting / hunting of the engine. This points to head lift and gasses escaping into the coolant. The big issue here is that other components could have failed hiding the biggest issue so ultimately a process of detailed diagnosis needs to be undertaken. If you are reading this and want any advice please reach out as I am happy to help as this has been quite an experience and I now feel like I know quite a bit about these engines! So for now that closes out this diag and fix thread. Thanks.

I had to get my MK3 280 4x4 L&K wheel alignment checked after I noticed some really bad rear tyre wear soon after I got the car at 2.5 years old. The inner tyre shoulder was down to the canvas on on both rears. However, there was still 3-4mm of tread depth on the outer shoulder & majority of the tyre tread. Very difficult to see the inside tread wear from outside the car unless you get the car up on a ramp or get under it. I took mine to a local alignment specialist with a 4 wheel Hunter setup. Apparently it's a well known issue with many VAG group cars that use the same back end suspension & the factory isn't that precise on how they set up the camber at the rear. Mine was out by quite a few degrees. Not had any rear tyre wear issues since (6 years & counting).

New MHI2 P470 (2027) maps were released by VW. The content.pkg contains the following FECs/FSCs: 02300040 (Audi), 09300002 (VW), 08300002 (Skoda), 07300040 (Seat), 06300040 (Porsche), 03300040 (Bentley). This also means they'll run on Skoda no problem, as per usual. Link to the maps on the VW servers: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/Update_25_26/P470_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z

@Breezy_Pete thank you for your effort! This morning, I ran a scan on a cold engine and got the usual cold-start behavior, and refused to clear: Immediate rescan: I cleared the code (P25AB00) on cold ignition. OBDeleven automatically rescanned the ECU a second later and caught the code again immediately. Checking the Freeze Frame data, I noticed a new timestamp and slightly changed parameters. I retried clearing it twice, and after each clear, a new timestamp and slightly changed parameters appeared. The 60-second delay: After failing twice, I turned the ignition OFF, waited a full 60 seconds, and turned the ignition back ON. Upon scanning, the frequency counter had increased to 2. I cleared the code, and this time it stayed gone! I then drove to work with no faults at all, and the Start-Stop system worked perfectly the entire way. A fresh scan upon arrival at work showed zero faults. I also checked the fuse box in the engine bay — I pulled out and reseated all fuses and relays to ensure good contact. All pins and terminals look completely spotless with zero visible signs of corrosion or oxidation.

Hi everyone, I have a 2001 Skoda Fabia Mk1 1.9 SDI Classic with A/C. It is a very basic model, currently equipped with manual front windows and manual mirrors. I'm looking into retrofitting the OEM electric front windows and electric mirrors using parts from a suitable donor Fabia, preferably an early Mk1 with the same generation of Comfort system as my 2001 car. So far, my plan is to source from a donor: front left and right electric window regulators + motors the corresponding door control modules (J386/J387, if applicable) front door wiring looms window switches / switch panels electric mirrors mirror adjustment switch the relevant body-side wiring between the A-pillars and the Comfort module the donor's J393 Comfort/Convenience module, if required I have been studying the wiring diagrams, but I have a few things I would really like to confirm before buying and dismantling a donor. 1. Body-side wiringThis is probably my biggest question. I understand that the door wiring harness itself is relatively straightforward: the door loom connects through the A-pillar to the vehicle-side wiring. However, I'm trying to understand what happens on the vehicle side of the A-pillar connector. Does the wiring from the A-pillar to the J393 form a separate branch of the body/interior harness, or is it integrated into the main dashboard/body wiring harness? In other words, if I find a suitable donor, can I remove: J393 → relevant body wiring → left/right A-pillar connectors without having to remove the entire dashboard wiring harness? Or are the wires for the electric windows/door modules integrated into a larger common harness with other vehicle systems? If anyone has pictures of the body-side wiring / A-pillar connectors from a factory electric-window Fabia, that would be extremely helpful. 2. Comfort moduleMy current understanding is that the early Fabia uses the J393 Comfort module together with the front door control modules. My current car obviously has a Comfort module already, since it has central locking, but I'm not sure whether the module fitted to a basic Classic is capable of supporting electric windows/mirrors. Would I need to replace my J393 with the module from the donor? Or does the existing module already support the necessary functions and only the additional wiring/door modules are missing? If a replacement J393 is required, are there specific part numbers/revisions I should look for? 3. Electric window systemFrom the wiring diagrams it looks like the electric window motors are associated with the door control modules, rather than being controlled directly by the J393. So am I correct in thinking that if I take the complete electric-window hardware from the donor — including the motor/regulator, door control module and door loom — I don't need any additional window controller elsewhere in the car? 4. Electric mirrorsIs the electric mirror adjustment controlled by the relevant door control module, or is there another separate mirror control module? My assumption at the moment is that I can take the complete electric mirrors, mirror switch and the necessary wiring from the donor and connect them to the appropriate door module/loom. 5. Compatibility / donor yearMy car is from 2001, so I understand that there was a change in the Fabia Comfort system around 2004. I have seen references to the earlier Comfort CAN system and later LIN-based systems. Therefore, should I specifically look for a pre-08/2004 donor to avoid mixing the two generations? Would a 2002/2003/early-2004 electric-window Fabia be the safest donor for my 2001 car? 6. Remote central lockingMy current key is only a normal mechanical key — I don't have a remote-control key. If I install a donor J393 that supports remote central locking, would I later be able to have a genuine OEM remote key programmed/adapted to the car? I'm not particularly interested in the remote key at the moment, but if the correct Comfort module is already being installed, I'd like to retain the possibility of adding it later. Also, does changing the J393 have any effect on the immobiliser, or are the immobiliser and remote-locking functions separate? My current ideaMy ideal retrofit would basically be: Donor: J393 relevant body-side wiring both front door looms J386/J387 electric window regulators + motors window switches electric mirrors mirror switch Then transfer these to my 2001 Classic and connect everything using the factory connectors/wiring. I'm hoping this can be done mostly OEM / plug-and-play, rather than running completely new wiring from scratch. If anyone has actually done this retrofit on a Fabia Mk1 that originally had manual windows, I'd really appreciate hearing exactly what you had to change. Especially interested in: exact parts required J393 part numbers J386/J387 part numbers wiring diagrams A-pillar/body-side wiring donor year/spec VCDS coding/adaptation anything that turned out to be unexpectedly different between manual and electric-window cars Thanks in advance! Any information, photos or part numbers would be hugely appreciated.

And 2 Warning LED each Side ^^

Or you can go "All in" With an All-in Plan you can relax in the knowledge that you'll get two services, two MOTs, two years' Roadside Assistance, plus a free Warranty (when it's over 3yo)worth £626** for £959.76 Valid for vehicles with a 2.0L engine or less and under 100,000 miles at activation. Excludes electric vehicles and vehicles with an existing Service Plan. Vehicles that have been out of a warranty (that has been provided by Skoda UK or Skoda Financial Services) for more than 30 days will have a no-claim period of 30 days at the start of their All-in Plan. Volkswagen Group provides the All-in Warranty free of charge following purchase of an All-in Plan. The All-in Warranty does not cover any vehicle already covered under any other guarantee, insurance, warranty and/or gesture of goodwill. All-in Plan validity is dependent on required payments received. Škoda Financial Services.

@ilkosl thanks, this is exactly the kind of detailed reply I was hoping for — really helpful. First, answers to your questions: Roof bars — I only removed the crossbars; the longitudinal rails are factory-fitted and still on. Good point about the end caps, I'll tape those. Panoramic roof — no. Tow bar — yes, factory tow bar, but it was retracted during all my tests. Wheels — 16", never changed (205/60 R16). Grille shutter — I had a good look and I don't think I have one. I can't see any shutter mechanism or actuator behind the lower grille, just the radiator/intercooler directly. I'll confirm via VIN/PR codes through my dealer, but visually it doesn't look like I have active shutters. If that holds, the shutter can't be our common cause, since I get the drone without it. Dealer — yes, they drove it with me. The mechanic just said "it's the tyres" by ear, nothing measured. So I swapped the complete wheel set (summer → winter) myself — drone unchanged, same 129 Hz. No TPI/bulletin result was ever mentioned. I've since sent them a written report with the frequency analysis and asked them to escalate to Škoda and check for other reported cases. Two things seem to line up across the affected cars, and I'd like to narrow them down: DSG — mine is DSG (DQ381). Is everyone with the drone on DSG? Engine power — mine is 110 kW (150 PS). Can those of you with the drone confirm your output? @Gogich thanks — your 85 kW manual with no drone is a really useful data point. If it turns out everyone affected is 110 kW + DSG + Combi and the manual/lower-power cars are clear, that's a very specific pattern to take to Škoda. The higher-output DSG version has more to cool up front (gearbox oil cooler, higher heat load), which could change the airflow/thermal picture at speed on hot days — and would fit the temperature dependence without needing the shutter theory. Mine measures a fixed 129 Hz — if anyone can record and FFT theirs, let's see if we all land on the same frequency. Please do try the recording if you can; two or three independent measurements at 129 Hz in different countries would be very hard for Škoda to dismiss.

and this

don't understand that price two services from Skoda is £546

Thanks again @Coral-C . I am looking forward to that feature for the pan-euro trips. It takes me time to learn the features of a car and for it to become part of my unconscious competence. It's at this point when I tend to enjoy the car most. The new car, excitement stage is great but frustrating at one and the same time. Unbelievably, I am still finding features in our Mercedes SLC200 which we have owned since 2017. AI helps tease these hidden features out from the car! Best wishes.

Yes, lane following works and I leave it on. It's not full self-steering - you get about 30 seconds before it tells you to take over steering and automatically disengages. But I do find it useful for those busy moments in dense traffic when you could easily get distracted and drift out of lane. I believe you can have it in stick-shaker mode, where the wheel just vibrates if you are going to leave the lane, but I have it in full lane-following mode. In both cases, there's no intervention if you are indicating to change lane (unless it detects a car in the blind spot). There are mixed reports about it. Some like it, some switch it off. It's more aggressive and twitchy than the old Mk3 but I've seen similar reports from other brands' newer cars. On some urban roads, the wheel will jerk a little from time to time for no apparent reason. And it's not entirely happy if you adjust position within a lane to avoid a pothole or manhole cover. But on motorways and trunk roads, it is very good indeed. Overall, I prefer to leave it on - even around town for normal driving. It's not quite as smooth as the old Mk3's system, but it's perfectly adequate. I think you will find it useful, especially on your long trans-Europe runs.

It works exactly that way (or should I say, it doesn't work). The cruise control would have switched to 60mph and the car would start to slow, requiring a manual override of the cruise setting to keep it at 70. Going down to 60 from 70 is an annoyance, but when it decides you should suddenly be doing 20mph instead it can be a real challenge. Autonomous cruise control was one of the first driver-aid features that I turned off. At the same time, I turned off the map-based 'road layout' speed control. That slows you down as you approach junctions, corners, roundabouts, etc. where the speed limit is going to be too fast for the manoeuvre. It does work, but it is vastly overcautious. It starts to slow you down a long way from the bend AND slows you down much, much, more than you really need. I'm happier manually slowing when I need to and re-engaging cruise control afterwards. In flowing traffic, the car in front slowing will normally do that job for you anyway. So I am left with the Adaptive Cruise Control working pretty much in the same way as my Mk3 did - which suits me just fine. I manually set the speed according to the real speed limit and conditions, and then let it take care of itself. The preferred gap setting on the stalk is great for adjusting the distance between you and the car in front, and seems to be calibrated in seconds (although that is just my suspicion without any documentation to support it) - each extra step on the adjuster adds another 1 second to the gap. Really useful, for example, for dynamically increasing your survival gap in heavy rain or icy conditions. The only downside of the cruise control compared to the Mk3 (in my opinion) is that it takes quite an assertive flick on the stalk to change in 5mph steps; a gentle tap only changes by 1mph. The Mk3 stalk had the gentle tap for 5mph and separate actions for 1mph fine-tuning. With adaptive cruise control you don't need to be fiddling with 1mph tweaks in order to match other traffic; it is normally 5mph changes to align with a new speed limit. Six months in with the new car and I'm still training my muscle-memory to be more firm when adjusting the speed setting. Like many of the driver aids in the Mk4, you'll find that the full predictive cruise control doesn't work as well as you would want it to. It's not all Skoda's fault - the state of the art just isn't there for the autonomous systems to understand what is really going on in the outside world. Defaulting to 'better safe than sorry' is a valid strategy, but it does mean the car will fight you when it doesn't need to. Imagine the world's most nervous back seat driver as your co-pilot and you'll get the idea. Perhaps AI will get it fixed in the future - at which point the Superb's driver aids will be spectacular - but we might have to wait for the Mk5 for that.

I think that is down to driver inputs. The gearbox anticipates and pre selects the next gear going up or down, so if you drive erratically accelerating and braking as the car was expecting the opposite it has to shift from a going up to a going down gear. If you drive smooth it is smooth

I've been using the wheel alignment specialist on Leeds Road in Huddersfield, for years. I took my Superb Greenline Estate to him just after I'd bought it and had 4x new Goodyear eco tyres fitted. He had to loosen the front subframe to get a best-in-the-circumstances alignment, due to the previous owner crashing it. He wasn't able to get the front alignment spot-on, was able to get it fairly well aligned. 34,000 miles later and the Goodyear tyres still had about 4mm left on them. With them wearing more on the inside edge, but nothing as drastic as the photos in this thread. A nail in the tyre at a funny angle this week resulted in me getting 2x new Hankook Ventus Prime 4's for the front. Otherwise, there's a chance the front Goodyears would have lasted 40,000 miles.

Mine does the same. The high idle followed by fans on after stopping are a failed regen. When I notice high revs I try to continue driving and give it for a good blast down the road at revs above 2500 for about 20 mins and it should complete the regen till next time. Mine is due to shorter runs than I used to do. Alasdair

Probably have special inbuilt trackers fitted as well.

UPDATE: took off drivers side wheel and arch liner. Saw the latch cable in the gap behind the headlight. Fished it out and gave it a good yank and it popped the bonnet/hood. The junction box of cables had come apart. Closed it in place and it seems to be working now.

ANPR was happening years ago and anyone could see if they opened there eyes. Drug Dealers and Terrorists tracked into Scotland before stopped here. Plenty ANPR for decades to Sea Ports. Scottish Ports to Northern Ireland. Who are the plenty saying the Vloggers are speaking rubbish when they are only repeating what the heard or read someplace else, or things they predict with any of us do regularly. The Muppet that buys cars is not Nostradamus or someone with an ear into Government or Think Tanks meetings. Is he still out their posting what is sometimes guff like is often posted here?

Sounds to me exactly like a regen. No light because the DPF is not clogged.

It won't be necessary to declare this. Aviva clearly state thid and appear to want to target a different market but for the life of me I cannot think why. Model? Electric? That my son doesn't have to declare it suggests it isn't personal. Yes Junior has fallen out with dealers but that was warranty work. Intriguing.

Could also be due to overfilling with petrol and some is in carbon caniste but i think it would happen more often. If the fuel cap is good a new N80 valve is around £20 and easy to change. Got a bosch one for my sons mk1 for £15 off amazon. Check that any pipes are secure and not split. Alasdair

I can confirm @FOSTER91 observation. It's a regular problem here in Scotland where some trunk roads still have different speed limits for goods vehicles. I passed this sign on a run along the A90 yesterday and the car immediately switched to 60mph warning. It then happily chimed at me for the next 10 minutes until it finally decided that 70mph was ok.

I had the same warning on my dashboard. There are sidelight bulbs in there, albeit not worth it. They are 5w bulbs. You can clearly see your offside one is out. 5 minutes to change both.

I cannot see the cameras being used to charge people ppm it will be mandatory reporting like they have said. The way the cameras could be used is a back check for credibility, It will be quite simple for a registration number to be put into the computer system to validate "hits" and an AI model see if that 3,000mile was credible

Welcome to the forum. Does this intermittent fault appear immediately after refueling? Check the fuel cap sealing gasket.

check undertray/arch liners etc. Have had one that was slightly loose and made a weird howling sound at specific speeds. Must have caught it on something and ripped a couple of screw fixings. As it plastic it may be slightly softer when weather hot so might change speed it resonates at. Alasdair

@Graham Butcher "Around here." Very much relevant. For UK wide they will need rolled out UK wide. Getting full Mobile & Digital Receptions UK Wide might be a good idea. There are Average Speed cameras about on 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 mph & on 70 mph roads in many regions of the UK. It hardly requires having watched a Vlogger to know this, just pay attention while out and about driving.

Stunning for a FWD! 😃 How do you manage do much power only on the front axle? Isn’t your ASR flashing too much?

Better to remove the newish ABS wheel sensors before using a Gen2 kit on these bearings - I got away with it on one side but not on the other side! It was just the typical "from China" copy kit that I bought, just make sure that you line everything up so that you apply the force "in line", failure to do that, in extreme cases, will end up with the kit's thrust bearing track snapping - so it seems from someone on another forum, you can buy new thrust bearings on ebay though, I needed to do that when I snapped a bearing track on the lower arm rear mounting kit! Edit:- I ended up buying a couple of bearing assemblies from autodoc it was FAG that I chose. I had already checked on the FAG website that I was ordering the correct bearing. Probably other places selling FAG in UK now at a good price, it was Tayna that I used when buying SKF wheel bearing packs for my 2011 Audi S4 as they had them at the right price.

Maybe best not at a Main Dealer unless they have a Hunter Alignment system and employees trained to use it. Some will never have their vehicle in for alignment and others might when getting new tyres fitted. Or when have their tyres rotated. It is up to you. Regular tyre pressure checks and inspections of the tread wear in 'Simply Clever'.

Aha! newbie mistake. Cheers!

400 hp?! Damned! 😃

Thanks. The side skirts also help it bring it closer to the ground. No change in horsepower since the last update. Back then it was doing bout 200 hp, when i first got it. Now it's doing 400 hp 😁 That's not going to change anymore.

Unfortunately I don't have recent enough circuit diagrams for Superb to cover this engine code.

Most of the year it'll be mundane stuff, loads of short hops for groceries and (I nearly said petrol then! LOL!) social stuff, but there's several times of year when I do 200-300 mile journeys, which will almost inevitably now require a layover for charging. But the way fuel prices are going and my lack of enthusiasm for the out & out brut power of the RS, I'm hoping that this change will calm me down a bit, especially as I get older and I now have medical conditions with high BP/HF Depression/anxiety amongst them.

I had to have a hole welded a couple of years back. Rear of sill is close to mounting of rear beam. This (actually part of front wing) has been slowly worsening for a while. Went through MOT a few weeks back without mention. 🙂

How is it going with EV,s on fire in the UK as the numbers on the road or in storage have been growing. There seems to be very little media coverage on this recently. Is it just less of a story or less scaremongering from the usual suspects in the printed press?

I've had mine over 10 years, serviced every year and I'd drive to Scotland tomorrow without hesitation. I'd get the cambelt done if you're going to buy it. Price no idea, it's not really special except to those who know how good that engine is. Mines on 240,000 and still pulls like a train.

If the paint, body and interior are all in good condition it should certainly be worth considering. If you're doing the maintenance and servicing yourself there shouldn't be any seriously surprising jobs. What do the MOT advisories say? You can unclip the upper cover for the timing belt to visually inspect it. These cars can last a very long time if looked after properly. From your description it sounds like a sensible investment. As for price, I've no idea!

Hi. If anyone ever has any issues with insurance for a previously written off vehicle then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Changed the front brake discs and pads this morning to try and finally cure the brake wobble. Seems ok so far but let’s give it 200 miles or so to reappear like it did before. All went without drama using the excellent @Bap33 guide Here. I also swapped back to my standard wheel without paddles. For the small amount of instances that I used the paddles I would rather have an airbag that fits properly! So if anyone wants a round leather wheel without DSG paddles that fits the newer style airbag, I have one for sale!

The camera is easily confused. On my regular local route, there are school crossings with "20 when lights flash" signs. The car ALWAYS starts to chime to warn me that I am doing 30 in a 20 limit.

I presumed it was getting it from GPS data like Waze does however on the A75, there are outdated 40mph signs for lorries see image and the car changed its limit to 40mph which is obviously incorrect. Therefore I'm thinking there is a front facing camera which reads the speed limit signs similar to it reading other signs which then flag up on the dash, ie narrow road, roundabout, wild animals.