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The advice your garage is giving you about checking for piston ring issues is complete nonsense! a simple compression test is all that is required - rectifying any issues revealed by the test is another matter.

I think job cuts were always on the table. Once they moved to low volume and only two models (I think there is another in the pipeline) it was almost certain. It looks to me like they are aiming to be a lower priced Aston type of manufacturer, with initially very low sales, moving up to simply low-volume sales. Initial reviews seem to think the car is superb in all the things that a Jaguar should embody, but I can't see that saving them. They need something beautiful as an opening number, not brutal and minimalist. Mind you, I can see rappers buying them.

Come back at 40,000, or say 140,000. I think the complex procedure is about maintaining the long service intervals. Eg 300,000km belt change interval. I would agree that this will probably work in most cases, but its a bit of a botch job. Cam timing may drift a bit due to inherent tension imbalance between the cam pulleys and crank etc. Also, by loosening the pulleys and tightening the belt before unlocking the cams, you are ensuring the tension is consistent or at least correctly distributed around its length. By doing this, they can run the cam belt out to 300K no worries, probably even longer. Remember many cam belts had 100k or even 60K intervals (thinking Opel Corsa from early 2000s.) Probably more importantly, change the idler. The bearing in the idler is the most common failure I have seen. Obviously junks the belt thus engine when they fail

VW Specification: VW 508 00 (petrol/diesel dual standard for 0W-20) or traditional VW 507 00 for long-life 5W-30/0W-30. if you living ih cold climate zone use 0w20, if you live in hot climate, than 0w30. manufacturer, i like Shell (Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 0W-30) Shell, Castrol, Aral, Liqui moly...

Hi. I'm not the most car-savy person in the world, but I do enjoy my Skoda Rapid and aim to take good care of it. Nahum

That's the same update @MartiniB posted in July, thanks for the repost, can't wait for the next one.

Update: I feel stupid now, but in my offense it's Skoda's fault for not naming things correctly 😄 So I just went into the instrument cluster, navigated to Assistant > Enabled CORNERING lights I thought cornering lights were those with fog lamps, and dynamic or bend lighting like shown in comment above should be AFS switch ON/OFF, but I was wrong. After enabling the cornering lights I now see them move when I turn. Thank both of you for your comments! PS. The skoda is from 2009.

Ok I'll give you another clue .. It's a general purpose outlaw with a model designation that references a geographical coordinate system passing through the Greenwich Observatory

I wouldn't chance it in a modern diesel that I cared about. Older diesels were normally ok with up to 25% petrol.

When idling, it was fluctuating between 690-720... so yes, hopefully that means that the fuel side of things is all OK for now. Thanks again for your help and quick replies - very much appreciated. I'll post an update when I've had the DV replaced.

Thanks all for your replies. I have changed my mind and I'm buying a less than one year old Scala and am now trying to get more than 6000 for my Octavia combi with 51k on the clock and full service history.

It is highly probable that high oil consumption is contributing to your DPF issues.

I spent about 100 bucks buying a carplay module, and put it into the RCD510. So the RCD510 is the screen used to display while the carplay module working inside. There's a button to switch model between original display and carplay display, which means the car has two central controls. The hardest part is finding the space to hide the carplay module and the harness LOL.

Something to do with it being a sealed system and due to heat it increases pressure when off. The N276 valve I think reduces it to normal for starting. If its sticking you should notice a pressure spike in live data. As said bit above my experience but it seems to make sense. Hope its not as they arent as far as I know replaceable so new HPFP Alasdair

Now I have a heat pump at home I'm seriously considering moving to Eon, this may clinch it.

Ah OK, thank you. I'll give that a try. So... do the same as I did before, but wait 5-6 minutes for the pressure to build up to 1200, start the engine, and see whether the pressure spikes or drops. When I first plugged the OBD in earlier today and turned the ignition on (just to position 2, not actually starting the engine), I noticed that the pressure was around the 1500 mark, then dropped to around 700 when I started the engine. I wasn't properly looking or checking at that point, though, so I'll try it again and see what happens with a proper test.

it was the only part that showed age. I expected the water pump to be shot cos I'd overheated and HG went. That was perfect. The belt looks brand new, no cracks at all. Bearings and rollers looked ok but I guess they're more difficult to tell. I'm going to get an INA kit

Thank you AnnoyingPentium

Eon Next EV tariffs Next Drive or Next Drive smart are showing Offpeak back to 7 hours midnight to 7am for those going on these tariffs. It had been 7 hours and then reduced to 6 hours.

Thanks for your reply. Is it the fuse that’s under the glove box, behind the panel above the passenger footwell? I have had a problem with the electrics on the towbar not working on 13 pin, but fine if I put a 7 pin adapter in. An auto electrician had the loom out trying to sort that problem but couldn’t. It may be a loose connection there. I will check that out and post back with the result. Cheers Skiprat.

@Ooopnorth You asked best oil, pitty you never said 'Topping up'. If 0w 20 FS IV was used at the last Oil & Filter service then you should really top up with that. Not that a little different spec of oil will make a difference, just a diesel engine after all. At next service 0w 30 FS III might well be the way to go. As to Brand, matters not a jot as all to the Recommendation Spec does the job. Just a diesel engine after all. IMO.

Just bought 1 Ltr of Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 0W-30 to keep in the back of the car should a top up prove necessary (no signs yet, thankfully) 👍

TDI is VW 508 00 / 509 00. Same 0w 20 FS IV, but VW 508 00 is TSI Fixed or Variable. TDI VW 509 00 is even if on Fixed Oil & filter service. Same with the 0w 30 FS III or 5w 30 FS III. 504 TSI fixed or Variable. But 507 00 is a TDI even if Fixed Oil & Filter servicing.

The only person a locking wheel nut/bolt stops, is you. I had a rounded key on my first car, and sorted the issue with a blank socket and a mallet. I've kept the lockers on all cars since, as the wheels don't come off very regularly, but different designs have varying levels of usability. Usually, the BMW/VAG ones are pretty good - but the two-piece design, like on Ford, are horrendous.

The below foam and jack kit can be ordered for the Fabia MK4 from any VAG parts department by quoting the relevant OEM part number, ie. 6VA093860A. The VAG parts department can confirm whether this is correct for your vehicle by reference to the car's VIN number. The Czech price on "skoda eshop cz" is 2079CZK which is about £74. The below foam and jack kit uses a 185/65R15 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 spare wheel. Fabia MK4 foam and jack kit (includes everything except for the actual spare wheel) (OEM part number 6VA093860A) Sada pro výměnu rezervního kola 15Určeno pro: Fabia IV.Alcar 4055 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (for Fabia MK4) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1360399348768339044&rimCode=ALCAR4055 Alcar 4055 5.5Jx15 ET40 steel rim with fitted 185/65R15 tyre (includes valve and balancing) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cw/tyre-selector?share=&vehicle_ids=1351328927594845284&sortCode=none&limit=15&rimCode=ALCAR4055&rimType=steel&sizeTyresOnCW=noChanges&season=so&price=&brand=Uniroyal&brand=Vredestein

Turn your cornering lights back on and see if that brings them back. My Sharan has AFS lights and when one of the static cornering lights bulbs was out it disabled the AFS headlight function. Also, there is definitely and off switch for AFS as I have the option on the display to disable bend lighting, so there must be an equivalent VCDS option somewhere.

There's this? IMG_0754.HEIC AFAIK all recalls were actioned. I got the vehicle late 2014 from a Skoda dealer.

Folks - just pulled the trigger on the above in Velvet Red (other than that standard spec) - currently driving a Karoq 1.5 DSG Sportline Edition. Due in approx December and will be my first EV - hoping I have made correct choice. Current and new Elroq purchased via PCP scheme and Ohme Home Pro included as part of PCP offer. Would be grateful for any owners views/comments!

I dont have the vehicle yet - only just ordered it but hoping to avoid the Gitis if possible

Unhappy Swan............... Not a bad sunset earlier...............

I had a similar issue with my previous mk3 facelift Octavia, the info screen would intermittently turn it's self on & off whilst I was driving. I never got to the bottom of it, but I found pulling the dash fuse (behind the glovebox), usually stopped it from turning on & off for around a month. I can't offhand remember which fuse it was, but it's within the owners handbook. Maybe worth a free, try. Mine turned off & on, less often than yours, mind. Still enough to drive me crazy when it did.

Goodies arrived…🤪

Today’s task was to add LED lights to the back doors in place of the reflectors. Using information from this post. Tapped into red and white/ brown and yellow wires using posi taps and tidied up with cloth tape. They project “Superb” onto the floor the same as the front ones. Note - it’s always worth having some spare door trim clips on hand as they seem to be a sacrificial part! https://vehicleclips.co.uk/products/door-card-trim-moulding-clip-with-rubber-seal-skoda-5j0867276

Hi again! So, I managed to reach the solenoid component and bend the little pins to increase the contact. I did a scan on the module and erase the error, and finally got rid of it. Indeed, the component that hold the solenoid is the last component you can reach after you disassemble the entire central console. I took some photos, but not with exact steps to follow. The tools that I needed were prying tools for the trims, T20 and T30, a 10mm socket(preferable a longer one as the screws are a bit longer) and a flat screwdriver to help me with the removal of the different connectors. I’ll try to explain the steps as best I remember: Remove the trim with the gearbox selector and the wireless charger with the prying tool and unclip all the connectors. After that is removed, you have 4 T20 screws, two on each side that you have to remove. In the front row also, the central console has two “skirts” that needs to be removed. These have one screw each, almost at the extremity near the accelerator pedal(for me, as i have LHD) and on the other side as well. After the screw is removed, pull the skirt to the side and down, they’ll come off quite easy. Remove the rear usb chargers trim/rear vents with a prying tool. Start from the bottom, there are two clips, one on each side, then go up, and you’ll find two more, one on each side. After that, gently pull from the bottom towards upright and use the prying tool to unclip it from near the armrest hinge. Once that is removed you will have to remove the duct vent and you’ll be able to reach the 2 T30 screws, that you have to remove. Once that is done, you’ll be able to remove the central console, but you have to unplug the connectors for the parking brake/autohold. Remove the T20 screw from the front side metal part that provide the 220V current and the two T30 from the back. There is no need to unplug it. You just take it out of the way. Remove the two T30 screws from the plastic bracket that holds the central console with the 4 screws from step 2. Remove the duct vent. Use the prying tool to unclip the keyless module from the upper side. (This step can be ignored i think, as after I removed it, I saw that it wasn’t blocking anything) Remove the 4 10mm nuts that holds the final plastic part, that cover the module with the solenoid. Remove the solenoid with prying tools on the clips and gently pull it upward to not damage the pins. Once you the solenoid, bend the little pins so it makes a better contact with the counterpart. Everything in reverse order, making sure you don’t force/break anything and you don’t forget about the connectors.

It's a G-meter (display of lateral/longitudinal G-forces) You can change it with de parameter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4-6j3XseEM

Already mentioned and perhaps you have tried this, but quite a few radios unlock if you turn ignition on, then turn the radio on afterwards. Some radios need a full restart by pressing on button for about 30s. The key is stored somewhere in the ECU. I know this was the case in our Mk1 Superb as well as Roomster, radio got accidentally locked out in both but recovered.

As above, look for the radio code in handbooks, paperwork, etc. - it's four digits. If no luck, there's online services who will decode from the serial number, or you'll have to contact a Skoda dealer. If all else fails, plenty guides online for fitting an aftermarket stereo to these.

Have a look to see if there a motorfactors near you. They may well stock them as our local one had one on the shelf as someone ripped my sons off on his mk1 fabia. As for the radio code switch ignition on and make sure radio is switched off then switch ignition off and leave for 20-30mins. Switch ignition on then radio and it should resync and start working. If it still asking for code then it may be in the radio instruction booklet or car booklet. Check its not in glove box as well. If the above doesnt work then I am afraid you may need to contact dealer it came from. Alasdair

I put this into ChatGPT

@thamestrader , get in there quick and change the "29 inch rims".

all done, not the sensor just the o ring/ seal

@MartiniB v1.31.64 now available from Phonostar for MIB3. https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.64.zip

No... There are 1.4ACT engines in the Superb and Kodiaq up to 2018.

@banzo7 I assume that you are not in UK, ACT came in with the 1.5 evo engine in UK, didn't it? 1.4 non-ACT up to 2016.

That engine in the video isn’t an act version. Even the non act engine there is a locking tool to lock the cams and another one that stops the crank turning. The garage doing the video have done the old school marking everything with paint method and probably you can get away with it on the non act engines, at least the engine will run reasonably enough. There is a very expensive tool for timing the act engines that reads the cam sensors via the obd system to accurately check and adjust the cam timing, or there are some less expensive (but still several £100’s) tools that can check cam position without connecting to the diagnostics. Whilst you might not trust elsapro for some reason, the fact is that the 5 year cam belt interval pushed by all vw uk brands was not necessary on these ea211 engines, and as ootohere posted the uk is now on the same page as the rest of Europe. There have always different recommendations for listed high dust countries in the rest of the world. 1.5act at 8 years old and 75,000 km (or miles), in my opinion, doesn’t need replacing. Take the cover off and inspect it and I bet it is like new. If you really want to get it changed then take it to a vag specialist or Skoda dealer and get it done with the correct equipment. I consider myself to be a reasonably good mechanic and worked at a vw/Audi dealership in the past, I run a car with one of these act engines and have had 2 other 1.4 tsi Octavias, and I wouldn’t embark on a timing belt change without the correct tools.

The EPC light on my daughter's 1.2 , 2010 Fabia recently illuminated and she lost power. She managed to get going again but it happened repeatedly especially after trying to pull away from red lights. We limped the car home and I set to work on trying to find the issue. A quick diagnostics check with a cheap reader showed no codes. I cleaned all the plugs and connectors but the car still lacked power. After some research I checked the brake lights and saw that both the nearside and offside were not working although the one above the tailgate was. I decided to change the brake light switch, which is situated on top of the brake pedal in case it was faulty and had caused a surge resulting in blown bulbs and the EPC light. Both brake light bulbs had indeed blown so I changed these. As soon as I switched the ignition on the EPC light went out and the car is back to full 1.2 power! Cost of parts, under £20.00. The brake light switch is easy to change. Turn it anti clockwise slightly to take it from it's mount. press the two side clips in to remove the wires and change it over with fitting being the reversal . Leave the brake pedal in it's resting position as you re-fit..Less than two minutes to change. I have posted this in the hope it may help other baffled owners save time and money.

Thanks for all your updates on this thread..I cannot say that the switch was definitely faulty but thought it strange that both bulbs blew which with my very minor amount of technical knowledge lead me to suspect a faulty switch causing them to blow . I got a discount on the switch and thought it would be a cheap enough option to change the switch and bulbs in case the switch problem was intermittent as the EPC light and power loss happened a few months previously but seemed to clear itself. I bow to everyone's greater technical knowledge and the suggestion to re-fit the old switch, but if that switch is intermittently faulty it may well work and I suspect I may have already saved well over £100 by not going to a dealer to find and fix the fault so I'm quite happy not to mess with it again.

Going back to the thread title, it's looking increasingly unlikely with talk of 4,000 job cuts. I think I read that for each job lost in the manufacturing of a car, that could be three jobs in the supply chain so as many as 16,000 jobs at risk. Sad times for all at risk.

Hi all, was researching this for a while, and seen comments on Seat forum stating that in 2023 VWG changed the recommendation on belt changes. So i contacted Skoda directly and they confirmed that my 1.4 TSI engine is on a lifetime schedule! 67 plate by the way, might consider an inspection in a few years. 66k on the odo at the moment