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Trawling through the net, it appears that left hooks are affect. Right hand drives are OK. However a VW spokesperson added that 'the nut on the steering wheel is still the biggest cause of accidents'😉

I’m pretty certain this thread is no longer about individual versions of the “truth” about electric cars.

Hello there! First of wanna say thanks for this forum, figgured it was time to finaly make an account as this forum have been a good resource iv kept stumbeling uppon as im fixing up this "beater octavia" i got for dirt cheap a month ago. She might look pretty in the picture, gets up and move pretty well with the 1.8tsi 180hp, 4x4 and dsg - a plessure to drive i must say, plessanly supprised with how nice she is to cruise and thats me comming from a a6 c7 allroad, audi e-tron etc. But she have issues, there are rust, dings, scratches and general signes that she had a though life. The car was bought on an impulse a friday morning a month ago as both me and my sister needed a backup car for a little while, my audi and sisters subaru (rustbucket!) was due for its bi-yearly "road legal inspection" the same week. both need a fair bit of of work, especially the subaru where i need to reconstruct a good chuck of the rockers and inner structure (takes time for a it guy where the welding skill is "can somehow stick metal together"). And my schedule have been crazy lately so spare time to work on our cars have been more or less non existant. Back to the project Skoda! I got here cheap as the guy i bought it from had given up, had "engine noice" and check engine light he could not figgure out. he even did a timing chain kit... The Skoda jumped the repair queue as it looked like a farly quick doing and the inspection was due on this one aswell. When i looked at it before buying I had a suspision that it was the vvt solinoid causing the noice and engine light - It was!, there was also a coolant leak from the waterpump and a connecting piece, did new rear breaks, 3d-printet a repair for the handbrake (Thank you forum member here!) - and she passed here inspection ;) These cars are know to rust a bit in norway, and she have door handel and rear quarter rust. ignored the doors for now but the inner finder, rearquarter and rear sub fram got a full spa treatment and while the body had some rust the octavia is solid and after some treatment should last for a good long time. Now she is street legal and a absolutly fantastic car to drive! Almost thought of keeping this beater for my self replacing the A6 allroad for daily driving, did not help the A6's case that in the past 3 weeks the air suspension have started to leak and im having transmission trubbles... Its "only" done 285.000km, a bit early for a VAG dsg trans to have its first issues, right? 🤣 While the engine sound and pulls nicely, all is not well. After replacing coolent parts and while bleeding the cooling system i got low oilpressure warning... done some minor stuff to hoping it would solve it, and yesterday i did an oil pump. still have some hot idle pressure issues that needs further investigations but that is for later and a dedicated post. Well this turned in to a long post.. But again, thanks for the forum!

Left hand drive vehicles only - so no recall expected in the UK, Australia,New Zealand, India, ...

I set it up on both Google Maps and Apple Maps, and it works.

Welcome to the forums. My Sept-2020 registered 1.5TSi SEL First Edition (now at 80k miles) is absolutely fine, and has been for three or four years. Can't remember when I last had a software glitch. Assuming the VRS you're waiting for has had ALL the s/ware updates due then it should be OK too. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine.

It sounds to me that the key problem is a failing oil pump, oil pressure live data from OBD port would be interesting.

Thanks Gaz. Appreciated. No boroscope but I think pretty sound reasoning, sadly. That said, I'd be delighted to be wrong so I'll lay it all out here. (And if someone wants to buy it as-is, I want to do it honestly and not screw the next guy over.) The car felt fine but kept going into limp home mode on longer journeys with rev restriction to 4000rpm. I took it to my regular independent who's looked after me over the years, had it traced to oil pressure switch 3, had a coolant regulator valve fixed. It kept happening and my usual garage couldn't find a cause. I noticed the engine oil temperature would reach 110C and the warning would be triggered. I took it to a local independent specialist who serviced it, noticed: "Fault found with oil pressure switch 3, p168d00, checked tpi's and none applicable. Carried thorough test plan and unable to fault and states system has no defect. Removed oil filter housing and found debris within filter. Advise oil and filter change and oil set at correct level and advise customer to monitor as fault is only sporadic". They estimated £390+VAT to pull the engine apart to find more of a cause so I took it to a 3rd garage, another independent specialist: "Checked fault codes found code P000A camshaft position sensor A component sluggish. This code together with the history of swarf in the oil and P168D oil pressure switch code is a sure sign that the oil pressure to the camshaft adjusters is dropping. As this is happening when the engine is at operating temperature I would suspect that components inside the engine are worn to a point where oil is leaking past excessively once the oil thins at temperature. This will be causing the oil pressure to drop and the code to log. It will also have a snowball effect as more wear happens the oil contains more swarm that causes more wear. The only reasonable solution at this point is a complete engine replacement or engine rebuild. Including a new oil pump, oil cooler and turbocharger oil feed and return lines." So it's pretty damning. Oddly, if it weren't for the restriction on max revs I wouldn't know- it isn't rattling and feels like it drives fine. There aren't any warning lights in between, only after it gets up to higher temps and the warnings go away when it's cooled down again.

Emergency - Esc fault on the dash, saying take car to workshop. Map detail disappearing leavimg just the car icon on a blank screen. message saying smart road sign not functioning or something like that, it didn't stay on long enough to see it all. Booming/Echoing in the cabin. When driving I felt I was fighting the car.

That's one heck of an increase! Thinking out loud - not had any recent work done on the car? MoT? - my cars always dip once back from MoT, and either slowly recover, or come back if I remember to reset the values. Does it smell like it's running rich? I'd have thought an injector fault would throw up a code. You mention drag - does it feel like it's labouring? No changes in temperatures? Agree with others about confirming it by fill-up quantities and mileage covered to get an exact figure. I use Fuelly, which works well for me. Mysterious 🤨 - will be interesting to know what's up. Gaz

Does the mechanic know what the metal swarf is? (i.e. it's origin) Have they done any investigative work - maybe put a boroscope down cylinder 3 to see if there's anything obvious? A compression test? Checked the mains? If it's running fine, what symptoms do you have? Certainly metal filings in the oil is not good news. But what makes the mechanic advise the engine is toast, as oppose to repairable? Back in 2018, my then 2015 vRS TSI grenaded its turbo. The engine was flushed and the oil pump changed (amongst other items) as a precautionary measure, but the engine survived. Much younger engine than yours though and minimal swarf in the oil - most had been caught by a gauze filter. Maybe get a second opinion if you don't have all the facts. It's a big (and unwelcome) decision for sure. Best o' luck. Gaz

Rejection has been accepted and all funds to be returned on Monday. Sourced a L&K Superb with only 14000 on the clock

# ECE 2026.06 29.2 Gb version":{"major":1167955,"minor":26030,"build":1},...,"catalog_version":52 261E0 Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P177_EU_202630_Offline_Update.zip Files inside: 2026.05.27 Downloadable: 2026.08.19 Published: 2026.--.-- # ROW 2026.06 -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/540821-mib3-map-updates-202606/#findComment-6030862 Previous threads: -> 2026.02 -> 2025.02-06 -> 2024.06

@Lee01 this is a duplicate post

From memory bolts may be stretch so should be replaced at same time. Did my sons fabia gearbox and reused bolts and no problems after 2 years though. Alasdair

I am also sure it is dead. New LEMFÖRDER 39779 01 is 85€. Can change it by myself https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/catalog/products/39779%2B01?country=EN

Reckon that amount of play is excessive especially as your getting a knock. I would get it changed or at least looked at. Alasdair

Further entry courtesy of serdar_18fr on the Cupra side altering the country to TUR gives Turkey https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_TUR_202612_Offline_Update.zip I guess you can use this trick on the other missing countries on the list for RoW.

Well, been on here for over 4 years now, contributed some, and learnt a lot more. But time to say goodbye. But not to Briskoda, just this forum. I am getting a 2026 Skoda Karoq delivered tomorrow, so will be migrating over to that forum. Thanks for all advice given here, it's helped a lot.

We bought it second hand when it was 6 years old with 118k miles, put another 150k miles on over 10 years, it was a 2009 car. Sold it a year ago.....great car.

First of all, THANKS, many many thanks. After a lot of testing and check VCDS, problem seems to be the "Lock malfunction". Anyway, I'll continue testing just to check if problem could be the wires or the entire piece... I’m attaching this in case it’s of any help to anyone in the future.... Update after further VCDS diagnosis: I have now reproduced the fault several times while monitoring the 6D measuring values. The most interesting finding is: IDE05229 - Reason for cancellation of rear lid procedure Last reason: Lock malfunction IDE09505-MAS09017 Tailgate lock: implausible counter It initially showed 1559, every failed opening attempt increased it by exactly one: 1559 → 1560 → 1561 → 1562 → 1563 → 1564 During a failed opening attempt the three latch states remain: Pre-latch: Closed Main latch: Closed Rear lid lock: Closed and the instrument cluster does not detect the boot as open. If I then slightly lift the tailgate manually, without another electrical command, the values change to: Pre-latch: Closed Main latch: Open Rear lid lock: Safety catch / pre-latch At exactly that point the boot open indication appears on the instrument cluster, and the implausible-lock counter does not increase. I also checked the closing-assist system separately: IDE09505-MAS09018 Closing assist implausible counter: 0 So at the moment VCDS appears to be pointing much more specifically towards the tailgate latch/lock or its state detection, rather than the pull-shut/closing-assist mechanism. Current stored DTC: B2010 00 - No Basic Setting Although the live measuring value IDE09495 currently reports the tailgate as Initialized. I'll continue diagnosing it before replacing any parts.

Very little chance of them pulling the injectors to test them in my opinion. I'd also think that the electrical bits, plug and coil, are much more likely to be the problem.

Thanks so much for the advice! I’m toying with that idea too. If they provide evidence for replacing and testing those parts, and most of the common fault components (cooling system) have been replaced in the last few months, then I feel like this might be an alright car to live with after this. Can never guarantee it though, obviously! So the Cinch warranty is free for 90 days, which covers any faults other than those classed as ‘general wear and tear’. Obviously it’s subjective as to what wear and tear is and isn’t, but this EPC light fault is being covered under warranty for example. There’s the option to extend the warranty up to 3 years also, at a cost of roughly £600 total. The 14 day money back guarantee runs out on the 19th October. Although, I’ve been doing some research and if the EPC fault came back after 14 days, legally I believe that Cinch would either have to replace, repair or refund me. Still doing my research into that though to confirm.

in original, VAG have complete system with valve and its expensive, i had minor leaks and diassemble hoses from engine and this rubber is not bar, but plastic one have few leaks, i used selfvulcanization tape and I wrapped the entire ribbed pipe with it, 2 years ago, and everything is still fine. It's oil-based, this rubber fuel-based one never cracks. https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/b00011942/

@Cgwchris Was that local garage quoting near £1,000 to replace or a Skoda main Dealership? Was that after a Tech or Master tech inspecting the pipes?

I’m convinced the option has been removed by some software update on our 2024 model……..

Thanks, yes, that looks like the one. I reused the old one with gasket seal as a temporary measure and made sure the nuts were tightened this time - fixed the leak enough to pass the Swedish registration check....

oil evapour, gasoline evapour

The rubber strap that stops the petrol cap getting lost recently broke. It was easy enough to find a supplier for a new petrol cap with this tether but as I only need to replace the strap (and the cheapest "sets" were all out of stock) I found this on eBay for just over £3 delivered. I think the part and petrol cap are common across a range of VAG models. My problem now is I can't see how to get the old ring off and the new one on as everything is rigid plastic and there are no obvious screws or tabs holding things together.. Before I use brute force and break something I'm wondering if anyone has had to replace this part in the past and what the secret is?

Best solution ever: Cut the original plastic retainer prong. Trim flat. Use a temperature controlled soldering iron to insert an M4 hot melt knurled insert. Set the temperature to 250⁰C. Keep on side a water sprayer full of water and tested for proper spaying. Melt the insert using as little vertical force as possible in the position of the prong you cut. When the plastic gives in, prepare to spray water. When the insert is flat with the surface, spray plenty of water on it to cool it. Use an M4 black Torx screw to attach the lanyard.

Here u go..... adpmap-6D-5Q0-959-107-L.CSV blockmap-6D-5Q0-959-107-L.CSV

Not sure exactly what has been done over the last 3 years but here’s an updated picture…

It’s been a while… Grille has been changed, Front splitter got broken and replaced, Calipers have been painted vintage copper, Bonnet had started to get drastic lacquer peel and has now been resprayed, Silver bits in centre console have been replaced with carbon effect from a vRS, Still some more plans for this as well

Some owners who have a Superb MK3 with increased ride height have complained about poor handling. I suggest you first try 3Q0511115P rear springs, such as Eibach R21706. The 3Q0511115P rear spring should lift the rear of the unladen car up a little bit, but won't sag anywhere near as much when weight is added to the rear of the car...such as rear passenger and/or their luggage. Compared to the 3Q0511115P rear spring, the 3Q0511115AS rear spring should lift the rear of the car up by 10mm....whether unladen or with weight in the rear of the car. To make sure the ride is still comfortable when there's not much weight in the car, it's better to use 16" or 17" wheels, rather than the harder riding 18" or 19" wheels. My preference would be 215/60R16 6.5Jx16 ET41 or 215/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET41. The 215/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET41 is actually a winter tyre option suitable for snow chains, but it will ride slightly better on these 0.5" narrower 6.5J rims compared to the more usual 7Jx17 ET40 rims on the Superb MK3. The rear of the car will probably look too high if 3Q0511115AS increased ride height rear springs are used without also fitting increased ride height front springs. Eibach R21706 rear springs (matches 3Q0511115P) (standard ride height) Length 357mm Wire diameter 13.5mm Number of coil turns 8.3 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115p?supplier%5B%5D=112 Eibach R22930 rear springs (matches 3Q0511115AS) (increased ride height) Length 367mm Wire diameter 13.5mm Number of coil turns 8.3 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115as?supplier%5B%5D=112

But not one most people can afford just on a whim or with immediate effect just because petrol and diesel prices have gone up for a few months... You really don't get the fact that many people are not in your privileged position... I do and can sympathise.

So, the Scala went into the garage yesterday morning. A couple of hours later, I took the call - no faults found, and no mechanical issues with the cables or linkages. Given the symptoms we had written down, alongside their experience with 1.0 tsi engines, they suggested that the clutch master cylinder was the most likely cause of the problem - especially given that it was intermittent but seemingly becoming more frequent. This matched with our own online research (as well as Alasdair's comments). They were at pains to say that they couldn't guarantee it would fix the problem - which was fair enough - but we went ahead with the replacement. Picked up this afternoon - I'll keep this post updated.

I didn't ask about your personal circumstances I asked for specific examples...???

AFAIK, it's a global system. Affected vehicles seem to be a lot of LHD German cars, which mean it's likely more LHD European models too. Have you got in touch with your local dealer? Deberías sentarte en el lado correcto del coche ;) I think this means 'only' 70 vehicles have had the bolt actually fail, rather than needing it replaced.

The real issue here is that the big push towards electrification is happening before we have actually learned all there is to know about their varied failure modes and how to effectively repair them safely at the component level rather then complete assembly level. Governments are trying to run before they have effectively learnt to walk. There is another good garage that can work on EVs in London and they have their own YT channel and website . I have been watching their channel for a while now, and they are very impressive, but we need many more garages with their skills, and I have no doubt that we will get there eventually, but not before we will have many significant issues along the way www.ogsmechanics.com www.youtube.com/@OGSMechanics

When were the spark plugs replaced, or the air filter, or even inspected? What age of car having done how many miles?

Don't trust gauges, use the fill at the same pump every time to keep the car as level as possible. Record the milage before filling and fill with the same amount or until the pump shuts off. I had a diesel Focus that showed fuel consumption and it showed an average. Same work run different traffic conditions higher consumption!

700k ! Now that's what I'm talking about Our last (CEGA) diesel had 270k on it when sold, original injectors and glow plugs.

It has to be one of the most faithful versions of a prototype I've ever seen make it to production, so well done, Jag, for that. It is astonishing how small it is inside, considering it's about the size (and shape?) of a static caravan outside. I think they missed a trick by letting the 'embargo lifted' reviews show relatively muted colours. For me, after going in such a bold direction, they should have ensured that every video and photo review contained bold or unusual colours. Funnily enough, I've just dropped my Jag off for its 3-year service and MOT. I asked if they were sticking with Jag and getting a Type 01 in, to which I was told sometime next year they would have one in the showroom. I was then asked if I was interested and to which I replied I had a V8, supercharged, sleek coupe in for service....they read the room correctly and said "....ah, OK". 😆 I also can't afford one

hello all new to here thought I'd drop a pic of my facelift Octavia vrs. Loving the car had it around 6 months I'd say and not missed a beat. Coming from a MK3 Monte Carlo fabia it's quite a jump to luxury and power. But I'm liking it just not going to go over top with chavvy bits haha 😂 if you see me about give us a flash 👌