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Look at that! Never knew - That’s great thanks. But there goes the business idea!

Had a quick google and there are a few that hire out ramps at weekend. A couple maybe near you https://bognorselfservicegarage.co.uk/ and https://autobarnmotorservices.co.uk/ There may well be others. Alasdair

FYI, in my manual you can change the setting for the alerts (load beep and big red foot brake symbol), but not the actual braking.

There are no traditional replaceable 'bulbs' in a Fabia Mk4's LED headlights. This recent forum topic discussed a Fabia Mk4's flickering headlight (in that case it was the DRL (Daytime Running Light) that was intermittently flickering). https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/540477-led-daytime-running-light-drl-failingflickering-2022-fabia/#comment-6023834 If your Fabia has the basic 'reflector' type LED headlights (not the 'full matrix' type) this ebay advert quotes £395 for a new UK driver's-side unit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306812438685 but you may find that a UK Skoda dealership's price for a new replacement headlight is well over £500. As it's the full beam that's the problem with your car's headlight (and assuming that the headlight-unit itself is the culprit and not, say, a wiring issue or connection fault) then replacement of the headlight would normally be needed to cure the fault. The first thing to do is to ascertain why your car's headlight is flickering, but, other than to check that the connections on the rear of the headlight are fully in place, I'm not sure what else you can do yourself. The high cost of replacing a car's 'sealed' LED headlight-units was warned about in this 2018 RAC article https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/drivers-dazzled-by-massive-headlight-costs/

Ah I did wonder as it almost looks like a crack beneath the surface. Hopefully the replacement is better!

Yerp..... Source: Coventry Telegraph https://share.google/J79ygRoqEk7Rzfdxl

This must have been one of the first 9.2" displays in terms of production. The same issue also occurs with the Virtual Cockpit; it’s a stress fracture directly within the LCD—essentially a manufacturing defect.

I will measure the capacitance that the Kodiaq had for the tweeters. I also have optimized datasets with adjusted frequency responses.

Thanks Mike, I like the layers and the composition in general, sadly the light wasn't that great. In my head I was hoping it would look like the AI enhanced shot below.🤣 I grabbed another sunset shot yesterday at Leaderfoot viaduct which wasn’t too bad.

Hello everyone, I recently purchased a 2021 Skoda Scala 1.0 TSI 95 HP with a manual gearbox and approximately 88,000 km. I'm experiencing an intermittent clutch problem and would like to know if anyone has experienced something similar. The problem: Sometimes, when I'm slowing down to approach a junction or roundabout, the clutch pedal suddenly feels much lighter than normal and I cannot engage any gear. To get it working again, I have to slow the car down until it is almost completely stopped and press the clutch pedal again. After that, everything returns to normal and I can select gears without any problems. Additional observations: The problem happens randomly, not on every journey. Most of the time, the clutch works perfectly. With the engine switched off, all gears engage normally. I tested the clutch pedal by pressing it several times and holding it down for 60 seconds. I noticed no loss of resistance during this test. The problem temporarily disappears after slowing down and pressing the clutch again. Has anyone experienced a similar issue with the Skoda Scala or another VW Group vehicle with the 1.0 TSI engine? Could this be related to the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or another part of the hydraulic system? If anyone has experienced this problem and found a solution, I would really appreciate your advice. Thank you in advance!

The biting point is around halfway through the pedal travel, perhaps slightly lower, closer to the floor. With the clutch pedal fully depressed and a gear engaged, the car doesn’t try to move at all. The clutch doesn’t slip under load either. Even when driving uphill in a high gear, the engine revs drop rather than the clutch slipping. With the engine switched off, all gears engage more easily, even without pressing the clutch pedal. However, I can still feel the mechanical engagement of each gear through the gear lever, almost as if I can feel the gears engaging. With the engine running, shifting is noticeably harder, especially when downshifting. I’ve already adjusted the gear linkage following a tutorial, but unfortunately it hasn’t solved the problem. Personally, I would suspect the plastic components in the gear linkage, the gearbox oil level or condition, or even worn synchronisers before blaming the clutch. Of course, I could be wrong, but the clutch itself seems to be working fine to me. What do you think?

I have driven two varieties of this lever arrangement; pull to alternate between drive and sport. Lever returns to D/S position two positions D and S. Lever stays in selected position My current DSG has (I think) four modes: Economy, Drive, Sport and User defined which offers steering and A/C settings too 🤪 The Lever can only select between two of these, the others need an advanced degree in menu navigation. I use mine to switch between slightly annoying burble mode, and a mildly terrifying growl. 😬

Ah, that makes sense I've got a colleague who recently bought the previous shape Range Rover V8 diesel. It's an awesome thing indeed (don't panic, he has owned many Range Rovers, so he knows what he is doing )

Hi Michalson, I have a 1.6 Diesel, but it has a similar noise, mostly when cold. I suspect mine has a small leak in the exhaust, as one temp. sensor has a loose 'stalk' and a bit of soot around it. All other sensors are solid. Problem is, I can't budge it with a spanner I don't know what sensors etc. the CHHA has, but they should be easy to check as the difference is very pronounced. Hope that helps you find the cause, or eliminate one possibility.

Where is the biting point of the clutch?

I too am retired, I am emailing Customer Services. Frustratingly I live this close to VAG UK headquarters for VW and Skoda - the shiny ship's bows looking thing is actually VWFS - but of course you can't go and speak face to face with anyone. I'll report back when I get a response.

@Cairus do you know the specification of these capacitors? I installed aftermarket pioneer speakers in the doors and need to add in some frequency filtering. After driving round using a Bluetooth speaker for a couple of months while my MIB was being replaced I now realise how tinny I have made the audio.

I examined my original rocker cover closer, i popped of the PCV cap and took a look at the membrane. I had 225tkm on the dash and few months over 11 years with the original rocker cover. To me it seemed okay, no tears or holes etc and it had good elasticity still. Also the spring that operates it felt and looked okay also. Also noticed that the injector well seals were really snug fit, couldnt get them off with just fingers, maybe they are glued on in the original cover? If i remember right, the aftermarket cover seals weren't that tight fit but still okay in my opinion, seated good.

Thank you for that, I’ll dig that bugger out in the morning.

Guessing that's JLR and not just the J part?

Actually, now I remember that the noise sounded like it was from the engine bay or behind the dash in front of the driver. I wonder if it was HVAC related ?

Didn't Jaguar end production in December 2025, to pause sales until the launch of the new Jaguar type 01?

Hi everyone! I have a 2013 Skoda Octavia III 1.6 TDI 105 PS (CLHA), with a 5-speed manual gearbox and around 250,000 km. The engine was originally remapped from 105 to 155 PS, and the exhaust system has since been modified and emptied out. I estimate it might now produce around 170 PS, although this hasn’t been confirmed on a dyno. Recently, I’ve started having problems selecting gears, especially when downshifting into 4th, 3rd and 2nd. Sometimes it feels as if the gear lever hits a mechanical stop, and I have to apply more pressure than normal to engage the gear. Rev-matching or giving the throttle a quick blip sometimes helps. I’ve also noticed that 5th gear can be difficult to engage, and the lever doesn’t always seem to return smoothly from the 5th gear position. However, the lever seems to return to the centre normally from the other positions. The clutch doesn’t slip, and gear selection doesn’t seem to improve significantly with the clutch pedal fully depressed. The problems appeared after someone else drove the car quite aggressively, including some hard acceleration and rough gear changes. I’ve already adjusted the gear selector cables following an online tutorial, but unfortunately the problem persists. I’m wondering whether this could be caused by worn gearbox components, damaged synchronisers, a clutch issue, or something else. Has anyone experienced similar symptoms with this 5-speed gearbox? I’m also planning to check the gearbox oil level. Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Greetings to all and 👋 I own a 2003 Skoda fabia 1.4 16v with the BBZ engine manual gearbox I'm also new to this community,oh and I live in Barbados I purchased this car 3 years ago, thus is my 2nd fabia, the first being a 2005 model with the said BBZ engine, at present here at home in Barbados there's no longer any representation for Skoda the last set of cars was 2005 both for the Octavia and the fabias, anyhow we move onwards, when I first got it I couldn't understand why on cold start idle it would tremble before smoothening out as the engine reached temperature, earlier this year I took it to get a kube service and change some hardware EGR valve namely, during the scan this code came up "TCM" we figured out that the computer in the car was not the original one and that it was for the automatic version of a similar model I have 2 keys and could not at first figure out why, let's fast forward,found out a few weeks ago as I attended another technician to have a manual computer installed which I am in the process of returning because it's not coding that the second key which is the driving key is part of an ECU kit ( new to me ) The car idles poor, runs very rich underperforms and I do not think the EGR valve works either as a result of this faulty marriage I started a search for said ECU kits online found a site in Lithuania but they do not ship outside of the European union also tried eBay (us) nothing as yet Can anyone provide me with the appropriate guidance please, I know the potential of these cars, and I appreciate them very much just want to get normalcy so I can move on to do other things I await your kind response

The photo was taken while in Normal mode also.