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I tend to read the reviews on here before buying tyres. Not bought winter tyres yet but it helped when my daughter wanted all seasons. https://www.tyrereviews.com/

I've never heard of such a modification - it should be next-to-impossible because there's other functions that electric compressor is used for - other than climate. E.g. the hybrid system uses it to manage the HV-system temperature. So there would be lots of special coding to be done on various units that were not already done from the factory. The main reason for this platform to use an electric compressor is that the PHEV concept is also intended to be used exclusively electric over short distances; this purpose would be unachievable if the compressor would be driven by the ICE. The AC compressor is only used to cool the car or dry the air/interior, it's never used to heat the car. For that purpose the VAG PHEV platform uses a PTC heating element - which is obviously draining the HV battery. That's of course valid until the cooling liquid of the thermal engine heats up - and then it takes over the heating function. I'm not sure, but I think the rear window and the seat heating most likely use the 12V battery of the car as is the case on non-hybrid variants. I'm constantly using the App to cool or heat the cabin when exterior temperatures are too high or too low. I'm also using it to control (start/stop) the charging process in some cases.

For the 2.0TDI it was 210,000km (130,000 miles) or 5 years, I believe it is now 210,000km (130,000 miles). I had my first one done at 141,000km that was done by the dealer when I bought the car, he was more used to dealing with early MKiii which did have a bad water pump in the 2013-2015 models. I got the last one done at 242,000km.

That's good going! I think the interval for my engine code is 210,000km - no longer a time limit but I understand not everyone feels this is appropriate. Ultimately it seems to be down to individual risk tolerance as no guarantees either way.

I did it over a week, probably a couple of hours a day

Good afternoon Gent's. I'm a owner of Skoda Octavia 1.4 TSI iV for the last year. Didn't had much time to around it, but I have noticed something strange should I call it. There is any why to change the air-conditioning to use the traditional petrol engine instead of high voltage battery? The battery level goes down dramatically when used for demisting front and back windscreen and heating seats. If there is any way let me know please? And also do you recommend using the app for remote control aircon unit? And another features? Thank you in advance and stay safe

Then I think you should just drive it. It's not true that without vacuum assistance the brakes don't work. You just have to push much harder on the pedal.

Has anybody gone from a Kamiq to a Karoq or visa/versa. How does the ride and drive quality compare. Was it the right or wrong decision in your mind. Reason I'm interested is after 7 trouble free years with a 12tsi Yeti and moving to the 15tsi Karoq I'm not as over the moon as I should be with my decision, however I must say the ride quality is defiantly better!!

Comparing Oranges & lemons with a 1.5 TSI ACT or a 1.0 TSI with a DSG from different model years then 2.0 TSI or TDI,s with DQ381,s from different model years.

No point comparing 1.0 TSI or 1.5 TSI ACT,s with a DQ200 DSG from different model years and 2.0 TSI,s or TDI,s with DQ381,s from differebt model years. Changes happened several times to what ever drive trains and DSG.

Just check the actual change interval. While mine is not a diesel (1.4TSI) i only did my T belt at 300,000km. You may get a bit more out of the old one yet.

What exactly do you see when in two cylinder mode??

Over the years I have replaced all 4 of the wheel sensors on our Yeti, sometimes using Bosch, other times using no-name and to be fair all have worked okay. Having said that, the price difference isn't massive between them.

Since reading this post I have been observing the DSG behaviour more closely. Now I have a 2.0 TSI 4x4 Sportline so a wet clutch DSG rather than the dry clutch in the OPs car, so my observations may be specific rather than general. The DSG seems to respond to throttle position to decide when to change up, rather than actual speed or absolute revs (until the redline). If I apply a lot of throttle ie over accelerate but not foot to the floor, it can rev to 3000 rpm before changing up, if I ease off a bit it changes up whilst still accelerating, ease off more to maintain the speed and it changes up again. If I pull away gently, in a 30 limit, behind a slower vehicle, with minimal throttle applied it changes up below 2000 rpm but does not go above D4. When the limit changes to 40, slight throttle pressure to increase speed and it changes up only when I ease off having reached 40 mph. It seems driver throttle inputs will trigger DSG gear changes, which is identical to how my previous torque converter autos worked.

It has to be one of the most faithful versions of a prototype I've ever seen make it to production, so well done, Jag, for that. It is astonishing how small it is inside, considering it's about the size (and shape?) of a static caravan outside. I think they missed a trick by letting the 'embargo lifted' reviews show relatively muted colours. For me, after going in such a bold direction, they should have ensured that every video and photo review contained bold or unusual colours. Funnily enough, I've just dropped my Jag off for its 3-year service and MOT. I asked if they were sticking with Jag and getting a Type 01 in, to which I was told sometime next year they would have one in the showroom. I was then asked if I was interested and to which I replied I had a V8, supercharged, sleek coupe in for service....they read the room correctly and said "....ah, OK". 😆 I also can't afford one

Sounds logical Derek by the way thank you very much for your help and information on the subject I done the reset and there is a noticeable difference at slow speeds in town for instance 👌 my thinking was i don't use the car often enough as it's a second car when its cold the transmission is at its worst but improves as it warms up thanks again Derek your a scholar and a gentleman 😊👍

Some additional 2026.06 updates (for some RoW countries) out: Australia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_AUS_202612_Offline_Update.zip Asia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_ASIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip India -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_INDIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip South America & Mexico -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_MRM4_SAM_202612_Offline_Update.zip The _202612_ in the filename appears to be incorrect - but the file contents appears to contain June 2026 data... Discovered via Skoda update portal. Enjoy!

Hi yes agree with all those things, we have done a few, I think the best thing is to contact the local dealer whose stamps are in the boot and see if they will provide me with a breakdown of what they have done, the previous owner was in her 80's so has not kept all the paper work... Thanks for your replies.

I notice that resetting a VW Group DSG gearbox has ben discussed online ever since this type of transmission was introduced and there are numerous YouTube videos describing the required resetting procedure (example here) https://www.youtube.com/shorts/eJBc-IusOZA It is commonly claimed that the software of the ECU that controls a DSG transmission uses fuzzy-logic that allows the transmission to adapt its behaviour to a driver's driving style, but that would mean that a 'poor' driver could cause the transmission to adapt negatively and function worse than when using its original baseline settings, or that a 'good' driving style could result in the transmission's original behaviour improving. The following comment appeared in 2015 on a VW-related forum Some have said that the DSG transmission adapts to your driving style but this is incorrect. The DSG transmission shift behaviour adapts to variables like internal wear, D or S mode, and other input factors like throttle position and rate of change, uphill or downhill, and applies these variables over an existing shift map. Learning or adapting to your driving style is the wrong term since it would mean acquiring new knowledge that wasn't present before. The transmission cannot learn anything new, it just applies variables to existing maps. The perception of a reaction to driving style is the result of the change in a number of variables applied to the shift maps. So Yes the transmission adapts but not how most people think. Although "learn" might be used in marketing literature, it's not the right word to use when describing technical operation. As the video says, if your car's DSG gearbox is behaving in a way that you think it should not (eg. the shifts are jerky) it would be worth using the reset procedure to see if that improves matters. But, whatever the cause of the jerkiness, it won't be because the gearbox has learnt 'bad habits' from the car's driver(s).

I was intending using my small torque wrench, building up to a maximum torque of 30 NM on a hot engine. And if that doesn't free it, spraying it and trying again a day or two later... Although that is a good point about the T-bar for a purer turning force. Especially given the extensions required to clear the top of the engine, plus pipework. The trouble is, I'm not at all calibrated when it comes to how much torque I'd be applying with my hand on a T-bar. Edit. Thinking about it, I have a screwdriver type handle as part of my socket set. I'm pretty sure there's a low limit to how much torque I could apply with that. It's raining today. So I'll be trying this on the next dry day...

Might be time for me to take a holiday!

No stranger to seizing bolts. Usual 1/4 turn out lubricate and back in again then repeat. Worst ones are the ones that thread protrudes through to other side which I normally clean up first. So far any work done and bolts are remarkably good and have come out fairly easy. Alasdair

I might give dynax a go then over the top of my jenolite if it’s that easy to apply and a bit cheaper than hydrate 80. How does s50 work then and where would I generally use it you mean inside of cills and arches?

I think it's a distinctive design but not keen on the rear end treatment, and the harking back to the long bonnet of the E-Type seems an unnecessary design flourish IMHO. I do like the efficiency of the 1000HP motors giving a 300+ mile range "at highway speed". Would I buy one if I had £130,000 to spend on a car? No, it's styling is just too "weird" for my taste.

It should be on the records as done or not done. Also what other Service Campaigns, maybe track rod ends, maybe Heated Seat Elements if there are heated seats. Then there was a fan issue. But if '34F7' not done and DSG OK i would still not touch it. For a 2011 1.2 TSI There is can update of the Timeing Chain & tensioner. might have been done. There should be armoured Plug Leads, especially on cylinder 3. This was an update. When were the Spark Plugs changed? When was the Air Filter changed or the brake fluid replaced. These are the first service things i would do.