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So the car has been into the garage today. Prior to taking in I checked the battery again and it had dropped to 12.1 volts. Health check report said the battery was in good health and there are no error codes to report despite twice this morning getting front assist unavailable and monitoring alerts unavailabe!

Not sure @Cairus , originally the exploit was on the Audi platform, not sure why Skoda was next. It's not my projecr, I'm just following, but they are looking for testers. I'm sure with your knowledge of the platform that you'd be a great help. There is a number of teams doing it and keeping it open source... Some are charging €200 or €300.

I'm afraid I've not gotten around to it, the car was doing its stuff over the summer so no real chance to have it off the road. It'll probably be some time before Spring next year if I have any luck. Also, whilst I'm here: Last week, the wife ended up stranded with a flat tyre. Luckily, the wife got an nice AA chap within the hour who decided it was easier to just trailer it back home, so I can have a look. There was evidence of something like a bolt that pierced the tyre and I guess was slowly leaking until motorway driving accelerated it. Sod's law really, so got the front wheels off and replaced with a pair of CrossClimate 3's. The pair came to £312.88 from BlackCircles, primarily with a discount code, essentially making them about a fiver more than the previous Contintentals, so couldn't resist. I did notice yesterday while doing some errands that the steering wheel controls no longer work. Bit annoying, as I feel I'll need to take apart bits to try and see if something has worked loose, otherwise, I'll have to try and guess whether its the buttons themselves or perhaps the converter plug type thing. I really don't want to replace that as that was a couple of hundred pounds as far as I remember. Maintenance: £3800.46 (+£312.88) Upgrades: £5512.06 Miscellaneous: £863.46

Thanks for the reassurance breezy Pete. i suppose I can move it on before the chain sags too much. My concern comes from the average weekly mileage over twelve years being about 40 miles, and the oil potentially never really getting very hot to keep the chain lubricated. I am probably spending too much time on AI search bots

Yeah that’s exactly the same What i got. I forgot, I also change both top strut mount (at my expense). One car reporter also told me that it could be just resonance of the system and suggest to drive 150km/h

Hell no!

For example mine vibration.. after all changes i now came from most 109km/h to 127km/h shaking i came to shaking from 100 to 142km/h.. We have changed: wheel bearings --> little less shaking control arm bushings / suspension arm bushing --> more shaking again Its hard to record to have best video 20260924_122212.mp4

Well after my both front shock absorbers changed, vibration is much less. Ball joint and bearing will change 21.10.

Waiting for your feedback if any better on your side after changes. I am waiting if they will come to something new what it could be wrong.

Well I upgraded the radiator to to the higher core 190 model. It's still crap - overheating both oil and water on incline - even at 65 kmh. Towing van is 1300 max Inc stuff in it. Not impressed.

I could set it up on the table, I could test it. Why Only Columbus, MIB2 STD also have MOST

I am a out to buy a 2014 superb tsi s estate, with Only 27000 miles on an EA111 engine. should i worry about the timing chain?

I got air in my ABS unit once and I can confirm it causes a soft pedal. The pedal can be pumped hard with the engine off but would sink soft as soon as the engine was started. A little engine start sink is normal, an inch or so due to the servo, but I mean much more than that. Normal brake bleeding won't help but a VCDS ABS bleed procedure immediately cured the issue. You say you've refitted an ABS unit, I would not hesitate in saying you need to do the ABS bleed procedure on it. It is not only VCDS that can do that, many OBD scan tools can do ABS Brake Bleeding.

Hi, Can’t say if there’s fuel in the filter but there’s residue around the top. Does the filter need priming? I’ve been searching the net and think I’ve found the fuel cut off and what I think it is is picture below. If that is it there was not “click” when ignition turned on and off. If that is it any idea where I can get a replacement?

On the secondhand market, many sellers will simply advertise by what is on the sticker, so match that. The date code (17.05.16) on there is consistent with it being the car's original fitment. So ignore what Skoda are saying, for the reasons in my last post.

This was my 2001 on a Y Reg vRS, some may remember it, yes that's the nurburgrimg. Poor thing did about 70 laps of that. After I sold it, I almost bought it back when it appeared on ebay many years after I sold it. Sadly it needed a fair amount of work to bring it back so I pulled out, and it sold to a breakers yard instead.

Yes ,I have the 3Q2 423 051H on the rack ,I have and motor no is 5Q0 909 144. The showroom is not saying the part no is 5Q2 423 055L. Im planning to a get a used rack. So wanted to confirm the exact part no of RHD skoda superb.

Thanks everyone, Good to see some of the old guard still around, just looked back and I joined here 24 years ago, that's scary. This is the Volvo, can't believe this is almost 10 years old now.

Ah - the of a petrol or diesel! Maybe my problematic second hand 80K PHEV Octavia will come up trumps now multiple issues sorted and with ongoing oil crisis. You will still be in the money with all my recent service bills though!

I'm fairly sure there's no lift pump on a D, I know there isn't on an SDI. Take a picture of your engine bay and I'll try to spot the stop valve. Is there fuel in the filter?

Be very cautious if spraying any inflammable engine cleaner near the induction system - don't use it on a running engine!

Hi, I’ve had my first attempt to look at the issue and to be honest, I didn’t get far. First of all I found that the diesel gauge isn’t working so I put 12l in. I then cranked it and was getting no fuel out or either the bleed nipple at the front or the injectors. My plan tomorrow is to disconnect the fuel feed pipe from the filter and try to prime the pump from there. I looked and place my finger on everything that had a wire going to it but I neither heard nor felt anything clicking. So, today’s questions are: 1, is there a lift pump in the tank or should the fuel pump draw the fuel up? 2, where is and what does the stop valve look like? I’ve google it and noting that’s coming up on my search looks like anything I have 🤷🏼‍♂️

Hi Shakelton Snap Octavia First Skoda for me in fact. Mk iV Estate SE Technology 1.4Tsi PHEV Covid model early tech Plenty of problems Not being a spanner twirler myself left the multiple red and Orange fairy lights to the main dealers It’s been an expensive introduction to Skoda Picking up after latest issue HV chiller failure after previous incorrect diagnoses. Hopefully will start paying me back with my job now. I am not convinced but must live in hope. Tbh at least it’s not diesel and the complexity of the hybrid is maybe a silver lining in view of current oil supply crisis

From Yeti to a Kamiq.

I'm guessing it is due to some components that is being affected by the temperature. I'm seeing this error mostly in cold weather or in extreme hot temperatures.