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  2. CrisArnold joined the community
  3. Today
  4. Hi! Thanks for the answer. I left the part inside the gearbox. Impossible to get it out. On the links you sent me, they are out of stock 😢
  5. It must be coming from somewhere. Check the join between engine and gearbox in case its the crank seal that gone and it getting blown backwards Alasdair
  6. You lost that white teflon look Worm gear (cochlear atermonas) ? A mechanic may ''grab'' it with a special tool otherwise it will be shattered in pieces inside the gear box. Briskoda.net search 002409191B 002409191E Cost about 9 euro or 7,7 GBP
  7. jeni43 joined the community
  8. 146 diesel hatch. Walsall. Am currently looking to sell/break this if anyone is interested?
  9. Radiator Cover 6U0121283J ,differs from Radiator Support https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0121283j-radiator-cover-1-3mpi-china-3089.html https://www.naskodovku.cz/kryt-vodniho-chladice-vedeni-vzduchu-pro-skoda-felicia-facelift-6u0121283j--6u0-121-283-j/ @keywacat It's a very crucial part,it ''drives'' the incoming air on the radiator otherwise the incoming air will lost some amount inside the engine bay with no benefits.
  10. limited146 joined the community
  11. Your description points to a wheel bearing which is worn. They can start to make a droning noise linked to road speed before they are worn enough to feel play or roughness when testing by hand with the wheel off the ground. The drag from the transmission on a 4 x 4 will make it hard to spin the wheel and feel for roughness. Sometimes the noise is louder when cornering, due to side thrust and changing load, but I had a rear bearing go and it didn't show this behaviour so its not an infallible test. You might be able to find a good diagnostic workshop who can put the car on a rolling road with a vibration sensor attached to each suspension assembly in turn, to pinpoint which bearing has failed. Alternatively you could carry on using the car until the noise has got loud enough to identify the culprit, it will gradually get louder as it wears more. I no longer work on "heavy" stuff like suspension and wheels, as I don't have impact drivers or the space to swing a long breaker bar.
  12. I've tried listening to them, feeling them... Never been able to hear of feel anything, even on my front sensors which I know are all working correctly...
  13. All my dashboard warning lights come on intermittently especially when on a long journey. Went into garage who cleared faults but couldn’t identify what caused them. Just back from a long drive and they came back on. Any ideas on what might be the cause so I can advise the garage were to look first thanks.
  14. I've read many times that you can easily work out which one is faulty - by listening to them - that has never ever worked for me over a total of 6 VAG cars! VCDS does let you know which one has failed, as will a few other VAG compliant scan tools. So, has anyone successfully managed to find the faulty one by listening to them while they are operating? Second "detection" option is by feel, ie finger tip - again, doesn't work for me annoyingly!
  15. UsuallyJap joined the community
  16. Excellent thanks 👍🏻 Been living without the rear sensors for a while, but finally getting around to doing something about it!
  17. I'd suggest getting a fixed type tow-ball, as the removeable type will almost certainly will not be able to allow any height adjustment. I've seen simple 'drop plates' that just bolt between tow-ball and bar that allow for height adjustment.
  18. At a guess you have a 5 to 6 metre boat on a single-axle trailer? - your Octavia wagon will have no issues towing it apart from keeping a eye on transmission temperatures if you are doing long mountain climbs. Front-wheel drive can sometimes be an issue on steep launch ramps and it's a good idea to not get the rear of the vehicle anywhere near salt water! - I used to use a towbar extension pole to launch and recover my cruiser.
  19. Hey mate Believe it or not, the ! One was actually the dodgy one!! First and only time infotainment has been accurate haha Here is a link to the sensor I purchased which is paint matched to my colour pretty perfectly: https://ebay.io/m/ZESlsj
  20. Ahmety joined the community
  21. Frequent DPF regens resulting from oil use issues will adversely affect your fuel consumption.
  22. Awesome thanks. Maybe I'll take mine in to a local shop if it's potentially a quick job. One follow up question, how did you identify the dodgy sensor? Was it actually the one with the ! next to it? (I've learnt that it's not always wise to believe what the infotainment screen is telling me!) Thanks again 👍🏻
  23. Hi Got a 2008 1.2 liter 3 cyliner BZG engine. Only 110000 km. Its leaking oil. The issue is that the engine is totally dry. Front, left, right and back. Can not find one drip of oil. However the linkarm (right ride of car) and about 1 meter rear is totally soaked and i notice about 1-2 dl oil gone on 100-200 km driving. It only comes out after driving so stop dripping once stop. I cant see any house, pipe etc above the linkarm. Again nothing on the backside of the engine. Tray, belt side etc. Attaching two photoes. one from below the link arm and you can see its wet and oil have sprayed rear on the chassie. ALso a bad photo on the back of the engine. No oil what so ever. Any ideas? Thanks guys
  24. @JMSkoda94 what range are you getting on a full tank? I've noticed mine will only do ~350 from full tank to low fuel warning. Prior to this issue I was getting 430-450.
  25. stigge1001 joined the community
  26. Its not bad if you have another car on the road so if it goes wrong you have time to fix it. At moment only got one on road so repairs are only if really required. Havent had time to fix the Seat which needs the least amount doing. New bearing and probably EGR cooler thats needing cleaned which is a pain to get to. Can use my sons Fabia if it goes pear shaped. Hope to get at some of the cars I have over winter once I make doors on the big shed I use for repairs. Hope swapping valve cures problem. Alasdair
  27. Hi, I’ve recently started to hear a really loud squeal coming from the front of the car. First I thought it was the front discs as they had very deep grooves in so I assuming it was a stone. I changed them but it’s still happening. It only happens after 40/50mph and after I’ve been driving for around 5 mile at that speed. When I brake the squeal stops. Does anybody have any ideas what this could be ? d04cfd87-4479-456f-bfa9-f206d072e606.mov
  28. Many thanks
  29. Yeah, sounds like you'd make good use of it - that's quite a collection. I'd like to be able to do things myself, but bulbs, wiper blades and cabin filters are about my limit! Maybe replacing the odd bit of trim, and I've replaced a few switches myself - centre console central locking button and the on/off toggle for the cruise control. Both were intermittent for years until I wondered if I could fix it myself, rather than just putting up with it. Turns out, I could. I probably could do more, but I've got a healthy awareness of my lack of ability and experience - I'm capable of following instructions accurately and carefully, but it's the whole "what to do when something goes wrong" bit that scares me. I can't afford a new one, can just about afford to keep this one running... I don't want to start tinkering with engine stuff myself, in case I break something, or damage it in a way that's hard/expensive to put right. Changing the diverter valve looks easy enough, but I'm probably best to get the garage to do it.
  30. My problem is rust as I am in Inverness (high salt area) If it wasnt for that I reckon I could keep cars going indefinilty. No stranger to second hand parts off ebay etc plus as I do all my own mechanics no garage bills. None of my cars are pretty but they start and stop and generally fixable. I buy cheap older cars and keep them going until they need welded/die. Have a cheap scanner for fault codes and so far been ok but reckon I will need to invest in OBDeleven or VCDS at some point as there getting more complicated the newer they get. One of these days going to get a 4 post ramp. Reckon its a good investment and if I can keep on top of rust would pay for itself fairly quickly plus have Landrover 110, Toyota lucida, Mk1 mx5, Seat altea (all project vehicles) Daughter has Peugeot 205gti,Volvo v40,Landrover 110, Classic mini and a bedford rascal campervan and last of all sons mk1 fabia. so I reckon it would get used. Alasdair
  31. How about a friend or hire that vehicle to get the trailer and boat and all the gear weighed before getting a Tow Bar fitted? Has the Estate got 'Towing Prep' from the factory? and what tow bars are available to you in Australia for the Octavia Estate? ??? What height does the tow ball need to be at to have the trailer level?
  32. You find the Warranty when you look at Skoda Warranties. Internet / Google / Search Engines. You are supposed to get a copy of a Warranty from Manufacturers or Dealerships, and they are supposed to know what a Warranty Covers. It is their full time job. They do not sell household appliances.

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