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575601025E ?

Since the phone still charges through the USB cable, I wouldn’t assume the USB port itself is completely dead. Charging and CarPlay use different parts of the connection, so it’s possible to have power but no data connection. I’d try a known-good data cable first, preferably an Apple-certified one, and test another iPhone if you can. On the iPhone, also check Settings → General → CarPlay and remove the Superb from the saved cars before reconnecting it. It’s also worth checking that Siri is enabled, since CarPlay depends on it. If another iPhone also refuses to connect by USB, I’d start looking at the car side: the USB data port, infotainment unit or its configuration. Since VCDS isn't showing any related faults, that doesn't necessarily rule out a communication problem. If you normally use a wireless CarPlay adapter/dongle, I’d leave it completely disconnected while troubleshooting and get wired CarPlay working again first. Once the original connection works reliably, add the dongle back into the equation.

What tyres have you put on the front, and what's on the back? If you've got much improved grip on the front, and not so much on the back, that's not going to help. Gaz

Gateway 19 - paco_video_parksystem-RVC_compact_smart Multimedia 5F - adaptation Vehicle function list BAP - VPS_0x0B (activated) Vehicle function list BAP - VPS_0x0V_msg_bus (Can_fas) function_configuration_unit - RVC_video_input (ethernet) parkingsystem_video_input - carrier_resolution (1392x656) 6C 0303A300E73000 {that’s mine) what I found iin 6C that only Brand (Skoda Audi etc.) and equipment_driver_side can bring you error and stop camera working rest either it works or it doesn't but you still got picture I struggled with my camera for few weeks I couldn't solve incorrectly coded module error i tried all coding on the end I had to flash new dataset

As others have said the bushes may pass an MOT but they really only fail when they tear, so overtime they degrade and crack and become soft (much like me it seems), refreshing the bushes is a good place to start. There are so many on these cars I would start with ARB bushes and then look at things like swing arms etc. I had mine on the ramp recently and I was looking at the state of the bushes and thinking I should probably start a refresh as they are looking a little worse for wear after 11 years.

The bushes may look ok and get through MOT but overtime they get worn out with too much play. Did my old volvo years ago as it was like driving a boat. New bushes all round and it was like new again. Went for standard rather than poly mainly due to cost. Maybe start with antiroll bushes and take it from there. Alasdair

Nice, do these replace the standard lights??? do you have a link for them please

We also have a diesel car hence the momentary lapse. Normally we would not be able to put the diesel nozzle in the petrol neck. Yes I thought of stickers but wanted a fool proof solution.

And 6C is coded to Octavia MK4 NX : 03032200A53000

I think you’ve answered your own question. You don’t need to improve the handling, you need to repair a component to restore handling. It’s likely a worn bushing - could be ARB, LCA, trailing arm, drop link, subframe, shocks, whatever. A common modification for these cars is to replace the stock RARB something 24mm or thicker - be it from a GTI CS or an aftermarket place like Hardrace, H&R, 034, IE, SuperPro, or Whiteline. It makes a big difference, but beware of going too stiff without changing other components to suit.

Hi, I have just unplugged to check if my Skoda Fabia 2018 1.0 TSI expansion tanks contain silica so as to replace it with silica free and completely change the anticoolant from G13 to G12evo. The OEM number is 6Q0121407B. Attached are the photos. I have asked three AI engines but all say is silica free. I just wanted a second opinion so as to proceed with only anti-coolant change to G12evo. PS. the level of coolant is low because I sucked out a bit in order to be easier to unplug to check the OEM.

Bearing out (prepare new axle bolt and protective cap, if old bearing will be re-used). 4 axle flange bolts out (prepare new bolts). Just recognized big crack in my '2016 Octy rear/right guard- so, it's upcoming job for next year. Maybe it's wise to prepare new bearing too. Don't know if they have tendency to bake on axle.

Surely just "knowing" the car and knowing the correct hose colour will work for you. Or stick a "PETROL ONLY" sticker on the outside of the fuel cover - or even the inside of that cover.

One thing that I will add, if you are keeping this car for "a while", if it still has G13 coolant in it, it should get replaced with G12 EVO as it was only G13 that needed the Silicate pouches to add Silicate back into the coolant as it was being depleted in use, especially with certain engines/temperatures. G12 EVO does not need this which is why "Mit Silikat" has disappeared from newer VAG car reservoirs. Some people will say that it's easy to work out which coolant is in the system by checking its colour - I can't say that I'm 100% certain that I can/could, I've replaced the G13 with G12 EVO in both our cars - more due to the car's/coolant's age than anything else.

Thanks. Doesn't seem to list Skoda though.

Right time is maybe before or during winter not after it, unless you need it through the winter.

Hi thanks again for all your help. I have a 23 plate mk4 octavia and pro obd11. Is below the only coding required? 19 Gateway Configuration: Byte 15 : Change 02 to 12 Byte 16 : Change 01 to 51 Byte 18 : Change 10 to 20 Byte 20 : Change 00 to 02 5F — Adaptation Settings: function_configuration_unit → Select RVC_video_input Change FBAS to Ethernet Car_Funktion_List_BAP_Gen2_VPS_0x0B ------ Switch to activated Car_Funktion_List_BAP_Gen2_VPS_0x0B_msg_bus ------ Choose "terminal 15"

Yes,I think it could be a 'regretted selling' move for us. Might wait until the mileage is higher (it's 74k) or if the DPF/EGR show signs of playing up. The only car that might appeal is a used Audi Q4 e-tron (4x4 model), but they're still too much for us.

They look like these for the DSG Service Recall, or any recall. Dealer Stamp and date. If you want to know if the Defeat Device Voluntary Recall action was done try the Skoda Recall site and see if still outstanding, or it might show on the MOT site for Recall actions. http://skoda.co.uk/owners/recall-campaigns

@pikpilot When did the upgrade happen? What does the sticker look like?

According to AI, some petrol cars left the factory with the wrong ie Diesel filler neck. This was proven when I put diesel in my 2014 Fabia. It drove normally for 5 miles then stuttered to a stop, restarted and pinked another mile then engine light came on, stopped and wouldn't restart. Is there an aftermarket restrictor or DIY work-around so I don't have to buy and fit a complete filler neck?

According to AI, some petrol cars left the factory with the wrong ie Diesel filler neck. This was proven when I put diesel in my 2014 Fabia. It drove normally for 5 miles then stuttered to a stop, restarted and pinked another mile then engine light came on, stopped and wouldn't restart. Is there an aftermarket restrictor or DIY work around so I don't have to buy and fit a complete filler neck?

According to AI, some petrol cars left the factory with the wrong ie Diesel filler neck. This was proven when I put diesel in my 2014 Fabia. It drove normally foe 5 miles then stuttered to a stop, restarted and pinked another mile then engine light came on, stopped and wouldn't restart.

Unfortunately I cannot see the images that you uploaded, however my experience is that the bags are pretty robust, I have removed a few from expansion tanks and never had one split (but I am aware that they can degrade over time). There is often some small amounts of residue in the expansion tank and if you have not had any issues to date and have replaced the expansion tank I would not expect you to suddenly have issues.

So I'm waiting for my elroq 85, I currently drive a 58kw id3, this has a simular range to the elroq 60, I have found the worst battery killers are HEATING (by a long way) if driving long distance in winter and can stand it just turn on your steering wheel and seat heating with a window slightly open to prevent windows steaming up. And turn off your heating SPEED drop your speed on motorways to 60 if poss makes a huge difference. Doing this allows me to get over 220 plus in winter and another 20-30 when car was new AIR CON has a much smaller effect on range in summer I am easily hitting 4-5kw in summer and 4 in winter doing this. I always charge to 100% for long journeys and main battery is fine I've lost around 20 to 30 miles from new where I was exceeding stated max range. This doesn't mean sitting in slow lane at 50mph but full heating at 70 kills range