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without opening a new topic, I noticed a knocking sound when I drive a little harder and when changing gears from first to second in my Karoq 1.5 tsi (manual), and knocking sounds over bumps and the speed bump, I did a movement test but in place, is it normal for the engine to move like this and knock on the mount or should I replace it? it's a hydraulic mount. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LkhX6nHXugVktT3Q6

I am from Austria

Haha @Cairus what have you got to share!? Has this also happened to you, or are you about to tell me I’ve bought your old car?🤣

No warrenty https://mega.nz/file/lrc1BaCD#nq_LSllnN-vDCL_fK6YVGXCMPosigM-ZrRJ0RBJsNqA

As posted I have both, Kamiq now 4 years old and Karoq 6 months old having replaced our nearly 9 year old Karoq in March. Both our current ones are 1.5 DSG. Kamiq being lighter is more nimble and quicker under acceleration, Karoq ride is slightly better and has more space overall, with more space inside the cabin although the Kamiq can comfortably cope with 4 adults and we happily take our Kamiq to France as mpg is much better.

You know it will give you different answer every time you ask it, right? Single additive is enough for me. I may change the brand when I use all of it. I usually use either Archoil or Oilsyn - this is what the shop I'm buying from has. Once an year or two, I use the more aggressive DPF cleaner Archoil 6400, during a longer journey holiday vacation somewhere. It's written somewhere on the description of these products, that if you use their fuel conditioners regularly, you don't need to use the more aggressive DPF cleaners. But during the winter especially, I drive in the city traffic more than outside of it. Did I say that I put additive in the AdBlue as well? I add Xenum product preventing crystallization in the 10L bottle, before I fill it in the AB tank. It's sometimes -15 or colder when I go for skiing and I know the AdBlue liquid doesn't like temperatures below -10, that's why I'm adding that snake oil

It would be a start to provide the vehicle details and post a full auto-scan.

I've tried multiple cables of various brands and price brackets without success.

I've just bought a 2019 Octavia and only complaint I have is the infotainment system I'd love to replace it with a proper head unit but VAG have scuppered that plan and then to discover that it'll randomly crash and reset whilst using CarPlay just tops it off. I'm wanting to uplift my firmware but just need a reliable link to the software attached

I'll just follow along silently for now.

My estate seemed To have accessory net for dog if that’s useful to you (MkiV as it happens) My mechanic friend says that the engines have become so much more efficient that perhaps you may well find the 1.1 all you need especially with majority of trips very local

Thank you so much for everyone’s support on this, and thank you @OccyVRS for the extensive feedback, that’s provided me with some really clear information on the situation. As you say, I’ll wait to see what codes have been thrown and make a decision based on that. Would you guys be happy to help me out if I come back with codes on Monday, to see whether any of them are concerning enough for me to walk ? That final insight would really help me feel confident with the decision I make. Just to answer a few of those questions you raised Occy, I’ve left some notes below: 1 - interestingly , my interior is stitched red (seats, steering wheel, gearstick etc). Brakes wise I’ll have to check in the daylight tomorrow. Unless you could spec a VAQ from factory on the 230 (?), I still don’t think this would have come with one right? 2 - As you say, I was a bit wary buying from Cinch given the fact that most cars traded into WBAC are most likely hiding something… I guess I proved the point to myself the hard way! In terms of a good deal, can you tell me? It seemed decent at the time. It was £11,999 for an 86k miles, 2018, 230ps petrol manual estate in meteor grey. I did keep my eye on the market, maybe not for as long as I should have before buying, and anything manual + petrol + estate was around 13-14k, though granted they were 245 editions. What do we reckon, bad or good deal? 3 - appreciate the insight, I’ll wait to see what codes were thrown 4 - do you reckon they could have refitted the parts incorrectly as part of the repairs, and that’s now throwing this EPC issue? I might have misunderstood the suggestion you were raising here. 5 - similar to my question above, do you reckon they’ve reported the relevance between the issue and the fix wrong here? Two more things: I’ve booked the car in to a ŠKODA dealer for Friday next week (assuming the car is fixed by then) for a post purchase inspection effectively (not what they call it but whatever!). Is there anything in particular I should ask them to look at? I obviously can provide all the context I’ve given on this thread, but should I get them to focus on a particular repair that has been done by Cinch, to check they were done properly? Interestingly, and @Warrior193 thanks for your insight also, the wheels on the car are actually 19inch Xtreme alloys (photo attached to make sure I’m not being stupid??). They look like they’ve been recoated also, or once again am I being stupid? Thank you all so much for the help, I appreciate the time you’re putting in to help a ŠKODA novice not make a £11,999 mistake! I want to be part of the gang after deciding to part ways my current car (currently selling my 1995 Volvo T5 manual🥲), but maybe I should not be so hasty. yet again, there’s some positives amongst what’s been said, so there’s a chance this car is still worth keeping, right?

700k ! Now that's what I'm talking about Our last (CEGA) diesel had 270k on it when sold, original injectors and glow plugs.

I'd suggest getting the battery properly tested first. There is probably a date code stamp on the top surface of the battery neg. terminal, code format is WW/YY. If the MIL (check engine) indicator is lit, there should be a DTC logged - perhaps your OBD reader is incapable of reading it. What charger have you been using?

Correct, they are maximum settings. Whereas the auto recharge setting selects the highest, safe charging rate for present battery state.

I ended up buying a new (UK) Skoda Fabia SE L Edition in June. So with the darker nights and driving in the dark, I can answer my initial question. My car has the standard Basic LED headlights (features LED dipped and main beams + LED DRL's), it also has manual adjustment of the beam height. The light output from these headlights is perfectly decent on both main and dipped beams (and certainly significantly better than any Halogen headlights I've experienced), although not quite as good as the self levelling Full LED lights on my previous SEAT Ibiza FR. I am quite happy with the performance of the basic LED headlights on the Fabia, and I'm glad that I didn't pay the extra to upgrade them. I think the headlights referred to from DerekU's link above, dated 1st February 2026, must have been replaced with a far better item (since the topic was created in 2022). Mine are fine, and I do a significant amount of night driving. Just thought I should do an update.

I ended up buying a new (UK) Skoda Fabia SE L Edition in June. So with the darker nights and driving in the dark, I can partially answer my initial question. My car has the standard Basic LED headlights (features LED dipped and main beams + LED DRL's), it also has manual adjustment of the beam height. The light output from these headlights is perfectly decent on both main and dipped beams (and certainly significantly better than any Halogen headlights I've experienced), although not quite as good as the self levelling Full LED lights on my previous SEAT Ibiza FR. I am quite happy with the performance of the basic LED headlights on the Fabia, and I'm glad that I didn't pay the extra to upgrade them.

If you can get the daily updates for the applications then I don't see why you wouldn't get the OTA infotainment update too.... It was released quite a long time ago so I assume that the roll out is slow. I'm not sure if there's a way to force it...

Reasons to be cheerful.....

My brother in law is looking to buy a replacement for his Mazda 6 estate and is impressed with the 280 Superb Scout I have. However he doesn't want the high performance version and we've discounted the diesels due to a lot of his mileage being short local runs. That narrows it down to the 2 liter petrol or the 1,5 PHEV. I have no experience of either of these models but thought the collective mind of the forum might give us some ideas on which one to choose! One of his wants he probably won't get is the variable height floor (I've not seen one for sale yet) but I've seen that the PHEV has a different floor due to the battery? Does that variant have a flat floor from the loading edge forward or does it drop down like the rest of the range without the variable height floor option? Over to you lot! Guy

No error code for the battery. I have no idea how old it is (I've had the car for 3 years) but I know that if I put it on charge it charges up quickly. Maybe I'll put it on charge tomorrow. I should say that my car gets used for lots of short trips, nearly every day down the road for about a mile and back up again. I need to use my other car more see photo ........but only in good weather! Or walk down and up.

Can anyone advise how to do this on an Octavia Mk4.5. I have tried but with no success. Thank you.

That's interesting, one might imagine that the 2,4, 6 or 8 amp settings are maximum settings, otherwise, if the charge rate (amps) is constant then the voltage must be changing, once my SOC reaches ~ 75% SOC then the charging rate is down to a measured 0.38A as the charger effectively goes to maintenence mode at around 12.7V and the charging rate will fall still lower as the SOC increases so would take days to reach 90% SOC. I would expect your charger to behave similar to mine, below, at least in auto recharge.

Doesn’t give much to go on. Although the yellow battery indicator on the right; is OBD11 saying battery is one of the error codes? A battery on its way out is famous for all the most random errors - can you get a decent tester on it? How old is it?

Not what I have done, but more what someone else has done to it. Some bad parking in a car park by someone resulted in some paint transfer to the rear drivers side door. Some hand polish has been ordered to try and correct it. I don’t think it’s gone right through but I have ordered some touch up paint too just in case. A pleasant surprise that the person actually left contact details and we agreed upon a cash transfer to cover the cost of polish and paint.