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It could very well be a mix of things. I'm not sure if you have logged your DPF activity, but this could be very telling about the issue. A DPF regen on a healthy engine with no oil consumption will look something like this: You have a measured soot value and a calculated soot value. The regen of the DPF starts somewhere around 25g measured OR calculated. However, usually the calculated soot value raises faster and ultimately triggers the regen. This is dependant on the driving porfile, but you could say a normal regen interval is somewhere between 155 miles - 450 miles. Yes, the range is actually this wide. As an example, the measured value might still be at -0.3g (yes, actually in the minus. After a regen, this value often times is aroung -12g) while the calculated value is at 25g which triggers the regen. I've experienced this myself on my Golf 7 GTD Variant with the same CUNA engine. Oil consumption is high, regen interval is around 30 miles and the measured value always shot up and triggered the regen. We ended up replacing the DPF as it was clogged prematurely from the oil consumption. After the replacement, the interval increased to normal levels and the calculated value triggered the regen again. But not for long, as the calculated value started to raise faster and faster, as the oil consumption got worse and worse. So the DPF got clogged quite fast again, even after the replacement. Ultimately this is to be expected. Also noteworthy, after replacing the DPF, the oil consumption worsened. This is likely hinting towards a broken turbo due to the change of exhaust backpressure after the DPF replacement. Since my GTD had around 210k miles on it already and I've poured quite a lot of money into it already, I decided to sell it and not tackle the search for the oil consumption. At this point it really depends on your budget, how much you love the car and if you're able to get it diagnosed and perhaps sorted for a good price. I really don't want to paint the devil to the wall, but out of all the common things wrong with the CUNA, you could be looking at needing to replace the piston rings, turbo, DPF and worst case, if the cylinder walls are damaged, even a replacement engine. Other factors that would be cheaper to attempt and daignose first that could also lead to an increased oil consumption would be the valve cover, which houses the crankcase ventilation module. If the crankcase ventilation breaks, it can lead to increased oil consumption as well.

Thank you for that, very comprehensive answer, I may look at doing it through the winter ready for next summer. Not in a rush as the weather here has started to change, Autumn/Winter comes early up here. I may ask around meantime to see if any of the garages (limited choice) would be willing to recharge it after I've replaced the condenser. I see complete kits on Amazon inc pump for about £180. A question, why would you need gas without oil? Then get the oil separately. I figure even if it costs £300+ for DIY I will have saved over £400. Shouldn't be a problem removing and refitting the condenser, (I trained as a mechanic looong before a/c on cars).

So that would explain the high oil consumption. Do you think the DPF regen issue is totally unrelated?

Usual suspects on the CUNA are the piston rings, specifically the oil rings that like to clog form long-life oil services. They coke up with oil coal and get clogged. That way the oil that would otherwise just be "wiped" away now gets burnt. Most of the time you can't chemically clean them anymore, so you actually need to pull the pistons and replace the rings. Then hope that the cylinder walls still look alright. The other mentioned suspect would be the turbo, depending on the mileage and how its been driven. However the piston rings are a common thing on the CUNA. The CUNA specifically really is a horribly designed engine when it comes to that. Poor thermals and pistons oil rings that have holes that are too small and like to clog easily. Mix that with the poor thermals and long-life services and you get this as a result. Its basically the entire 1st gen EA888 1.8 TFSI story all over again.

Did you use the pro lift tiguan kit 🤔

Yes, it's the CUNA 184. It's currently in the garage and the mechanic is struggling to find any issues! Constant regens, reduced range, 1l of oil per 600 miles and can't find a problem smh

Hi All, Just purchased a 2016 superb estate l&k I know this has been said and mentioned on the forum but going through all the info just wanted to ask again for a simple answer please After lowering springs what options do we have as my car does have DCC ? Thanks

No stop / start. And alarm can be disabled as for when pets in or on ferry / transporter by pressing button on B pillar drivers side. Be aware when you open drivers door the fuel pump primes. Is the fuel pump running all the time. Or maybe just door wiring harness broken. Drivers or passenger side. Heated mirrors staying on etc etc.

Hi @pab567 also looking to upgrade my Skoda Fabia. It has the same Device part number: 5Q0035820 Thank you!

I'm sorry I'm not in position to answer shuch question, pls ask supplier.

2011, so I assume this vehicle is not fitted with stop-start technology - is that correct?

I have a 23 plate VRS and recently had to add half a litre of coolant. No sign of fluid anywhere. Check everyday now and level hasn’t moved. Concerned im out of warranty end of October🤷‍♂️. Suggestion to OP, contact Skoda Assist and they will come to you and if any issue found will take to garage who im told have a week to repair.

Thanks for your help. If it was the HPFP, would that show any other symptoms? i.e. loss of power when driving, misfires/stutters during heavy acceleration, etc. I haven't noticed anything like that. I don't know if it would show any warning lights or error codes along those lines, but haven't seen any of those either. If it's just the pressure dropping off (rather than any of the other symptoms), I saw another suggestion online that it could be the fuel PRV with a slight leak/bleed - does that sound plausible? When the weather is cold, there is sometimes a 1-2 second metallic rattle on cold startup and maybe 2-3 times out of 10 it will crank longer than usual before starting. I'm assuming that's the timing chain/tensioner that might need looking at, but it's not been enough of a problem to warrant further investigation so far - it's hardly done it at all during the summer. And thanks also for the info on the GFB DV+. I too have read a bit about the piston sticking if it's not properly lubricated. I supplied the part to the garage when it was fitted in September last year, and mentioned the need for oiling the brass piston, so I assume that was done. When I questioned about the need for oiling it routinely, the mechanic dismissed the idea, saying that it was supposed to be a "fit and forget" part, and he'd be surprised if it needed anything at all in the next five years. That doesn't fit with what I read online! Feedback suggests that it's a good part whilst working well, but it does need oiling every now and again. I'm very tempted to have the VAG/Pierburg 'Rev G' diverter valve fitted, but I don't want to throw more money at it if the GFB is actually fine and isn't the problem. I suspect that it might be the solution with the slight lift-off/overrun jerkiness that I'm experiencing, as some of the symptoms and timing of the fitting/issues seem to fit.

so, more than 2 months later and unfortunately its back. i noticed it end of July it was starting to mist up again around the edge (base). it progressively reached a good 2-3 cms up the filter housing at the start of this month. i finally got the chance to see my mechanic about it yesterday - they said it's nothing to worry about given i'm not losing any oil, it's not dripping/leaking, nor is there any performance impacts. given the car is now at Stg 3, we can expect more "pressure" in the engine, so some of this is not out of the ordinary. i'll just have to take this as normal, and give it a wipe every couple of months.

You could be unlucky and the battery has failed but check what voltage the alternator is puting out when car is running. If its too high it will fry batteries or too low and the battery will eventually go flat. Could be a failed voltage regulator. Had one fail years ago and was puting out 17 volts and above with high revs. New battery didnt last long. If its been flat for a week I doubt it would kill battery as its fairly new but battery may be down 20% due to sulfation Alasdair

Have been reading up on it and discovered its far from a simple job. Didnt realize sump had to come off as well. Cant hear any noticeable rattle as far as i know(find it difficult to tell) and car gets regular oil changes and runs great so maybe leave it till I notice something obvious. Not sure on the change interval and we got car at 60k with no service history. Been very reliable apart from usual wheel bearings and exhaust flexi etc. Not sure if you can check if chain is stretched on this engine with vcds? Thanks for the advice re brands. Alasdair

Hello everyone! Recently I got the same error on the Gearbox and after plugging the OBD11, it seems that I have an issue with the P27F500, which is the Solenoid. I also found this procedure and tried to follow it, but it seems that the difference that we all saw, is due to the PHEV versions which are a bit different. I'm curious, have you managed to reach the solenoid? I will dive into it today, and try to take some photos and explain what I've done, IF I manage to find it.

Same issue; smallish crack above drivers eyeline just kept growing. My insurers windscreen partner - National - booked me in and 90 minutes after he started he was out on a test drive. The new screen was marked up as a Skoda part; the fitter had all the calibration rig so clearly it's quite normal. Well, as normal as the software underneath lets it be...........

9,2" Display works Only with mib 2 High ---> Columbus Install VC need odis online, Cluster is Immo Master

While the statement above is correct, I have DIYed it at home on the driveway, replacing condenser/dryer together with a failed AC compressor (in my Mk3 vRS, back in June 2023, no gas in the system). However, you do need a decent vacuum pump and twin gauges as the system first needs to be emptied of air and more importantly moisture, otherwise water may freeze and cause blockage. You also need specialist oil and gas, the generic "airco top up" kits won't do. The cost of refilling HVAC yourself at the time was under £150 including pump , pressure gauges and hoses/adapters (under £80 all in), synthetic oil useable with both R123a and R1234yf (either/or, not a mix) and the gas. At the time, half decent Chinese vacuum pumps and gauges kits were cheap, not sure now. 3 years on, vRS's AC works just fine with no topups since, so I must have done something right... Getting hold of gas without any oil mixed into it was an issue, though after that job, for a HVAC topup on the other car, I have figured a way to filter out oil, sealant and dye from Halfords supplied gas/oil topup mix by running it through an inline oil/dye injector filled with folded, good quality paper towel HTH

So will these fit / be right ?

My 1.8 had a similar problem. I asked my local dealer (Fred Rees in Haverfordwest) to sort it whilst it was in for a scheduled service. When I got the car back they said "Yes, you have a coolant leak . . No, that wasn't on the schedule so we didn't sort it". A little two man garage around the corner knew what the problem was immediately. The water pump gasket was leaking. They fixed it for me.

NOW SOLD

My VRS has managed to completely kill 2 brand new batteries in the space of less than 24 months. The issue first started when the original battery with the car (yes I know I should have replaced it years ago) started draining overnight/when it was left standing. So I then bought a brand new Exide battery and things were ok for a few months. Then the car started draining the battery again, eventually resulting in it just not taking any charge at all. At this point I once again bought a brand new battery, but Bosch this time. That seemed to fix it as the battery never went flat and therefore there were no charging issues. Then I came to start the car earlier today and it was dead, completely dead. I got out my charger that you plug into the house electricity socket and started trying to charge it, but as soon as I connected it the charger said the battery was fully charged and wouldn't charge it any further. It gave me enough electricity try and start it but it was still dead, the relays clicked for about 2 seconds and then stopped. I now have to purchase a third new battery in less than 24 months, but the problem still remains and I have no idea what that problem is. I'm posting on here in the hopes that someone had a similar experience or some knowledge that could point towards the component/system that is either shorting/huge parasitic draw/broken/etc. Here's some further information that may or may not be relevant. When this first started I took to leaving the doors open and the alarm off, so the alarm and remote central locking was not active when this happened. The car had been standing for about a week I noticed that for a lot of the battery flat instances that it had been raining beforehand, and that before this happened we had a huge downpour and thunderstorm. I also notice that on cold mornings the relays for the electric power steering will click whenever I turn the wheel. Other than that I really don't know. I'm hoping that someone here could help me. oh I meant to add if you need any further information please ask. Thank you, Eddfaf