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I have a 2025 Skoda Diesel L&K and notice no matter how many times I try and engage Parking Asist to find a suitable parking space it fails to recognise any even when I am driving slowly in a supermarket carpark after pressing the 'P' icon on the infotaintment screen and indicating. What more do I need to do?

Whoops should have read a bit further. Wireless Android Auto is flawless for me now. It was a pain before.

I don't think you can do that on MIB3?

You can't add them manually on the MIB3. Not got my 334 update yet. I have 332 at the moment with random issues connecting to Android Auto so hopefully when it arrives it should fix those

I would be interested to hear from anybody that has successfully fitted a 5K0907659 air quality sensor to their pre facelift Skoda Yeti. Currently I don't see how it can work without alterations to the Climatronic control panel. As previously mentioned, the news sensors appear to speak LIN whereas the old ones are PWM. Unless the sensor is multilingual, the protocol used on the sense pin (pin 3) is going to be different and not be understood by an unaltered climatronic control panel. I have attached a trace of both old sensor 1K0907659 and a new sensor from Febi part 194829 but based on the 5K0907659. I don't believe that the replacement 5K0907659 OEM sensor from Skoda will be any different to the Febi part and I'll have the same problem. Old sensor wave form: New sensor wave form:

I had a similar problem with a locked radio a few days ago. I tried a couple of places and got nowhere, so I ended up finding RadioCodePro.co.uk and they were able to get the code for me. I honestly don't know if the “Skoda server offline” message means the radio is flagged or if their system was just unavailable, but in my case I eventually got the code sorted. Might be worth giving them a try if you're still stuck.

Great point I’ve not looked at fluids etc yet but will very soon. Also yes I really want to be a million percent sure the car is strong and ready for any sort of map before I commit as I want to keep the car for a long time putting my own stamp on it.

The car may have been registered in May, but when was it manufactured and how long did it sit unused? My Octavia had a gap of 10 months from production to initial registration. I took ownership 9 months after registration. The battery was never amazing and Start/Stop barely activated when sitting in traffic. I had a new battery fitted a few months ago and it's like a different car. Start/Stop constantly activates now even without the car being warmed up. So could be worth checking the battery health, and maybe putting a battery charger/conditioner on it? I regularly get complaints with Front Assist, and they're always temporary. It seems to not like certain sections of road. When I take my kids to school there's always one section of road, that if Front Assist will alert, it will do it there. I've never really worked out why.

I did buy a fuel filter too for when the car goes up on lifts I’ll get it changed at that point very soon as I believe it’s on the underside of the car? Good shout on the brakes suspension and mounts too I’ll get them all checked out also hopefully in good condition.

Great shout to be fair I’ll check it out I’m also in the north too.

my car had some issue, on half empty road, warn of colision popped and car itself braked to the floor, driver behind me avoid collision in inches. why is it doing? luckily it happened only 2-3 times in 2 years, no matter of weather or dirt. car decelerate and brake itself without reason, dangerous. i wanted to turn off all assistant stuff (i can do it in settings, its 2019), because i have 35 years of driving experience on motorbikes and cars, never caused a car crash, but it is helpful sometimes.. help to avoid car crash.

for best performance and security, whole car must be checked, low milege but also low year of production, shocks and rubber parts gone with time. brakes, brake fluids etc.. check everything, for your own sake and for sake of others. when ii tuned my 1.5 tsi from 150 to 180 ks, my first ride after warm up was pretty dangerous.. :-D

New for download 0334? Thanks

well as you say youve just recently bought the car id suggest replacing the fuel filter too, you dont know what the cars been run on or how many times its been run close to empty, and also with any engine upgrades ,,,, check the brakes and suspension (and engine mounts) for wear and damage and change the brake fluid too

This new car has also got another issue that I have read on other forums for other models with the same engine. The new issue is the car cuts out when travelling at low speed especially approaching junctions / roundabouts or in heavy slow moving traffic. If you have an auto box, I believe this is normal and its part of how the start stop works, I am sure I read about this on here, as people were complaining that when they come up to a roundabout but don't stop, they put there foot down and there is nothing there, because the car thinks you are stopping so it's trying to save fuel.

Maybe try Tesco Momentum 99, not just cheaper, sometimes exceeds 99 ron, especially once the Winter Spec arrives at filling stations. Starting earliest in the Northern regions, late September / October Scotland.

I have an annoying bug after updating from version from 1896 > 1941 > 1989, I notices that my roller boot cover does not automatically retract when you open the electric tailgate since the update. I did not have the car long before I did the update but I remember it having an option to turn it on and off in the infotainment screen, but currently I don’t seem to have any options for it, it used to have a section called something like “opening and closing”. Has anyone else lost this feature on the infotainment screen? if you still have this option on 1989 can you show me a photo have what that looks like please. Do I need to do something to get this to reappear as I did the factory resets after the flashing, everything else seems normal, I don’t have any errors on the OBDeleven, and I don’t think its mechanical because it was fine before the software update.

I’m on my second tank of shell v power which I believe is 99 ron? I ve put nothing but that in it thus far

in the ottocast manual there is a http address, you open it on your phone and it connectes to your phone allowing you to update the dongle

Are you running it now on E5 / Super Unleaded so 97 ron or 99 ron Minimum?

Good advice I will get it on a dyno to be sure. I only held off on the plugs as I have a friend with a mk2 and he said maybe get the iridium plugs and R8 coils if going to map to stage 1

The spark plugs need checked / inspected as a minimum & gap checked, and best replaced. Best get it on a Dyno before a remap, maybe already re-mapped.

I had the same issue, charge air cooler coolant leak. Found the slow leak into the cooler via USB phone endoscope. Inconclusive sniff test had me worried about the HG or block. I bought a OEM Valeo one from Autodoc Ireland and had my indie fit it. Total cost was £4-500 IIRC Dealers wanted £1200+ Annoyingly I now have ?EGR woes too. Bloody complicated emissions fudges.

i see what you said now actually - i guess maybe checking the oil that comes out the sump could be a point to check? if the endoscope doesn't give me the answer

isn't that what presents itself as white smoke out the back end?