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Yep use a 3/4 breaker bar, its too much for a 1/2 especially when you need to re torque the new one (200nm + 180°)

There's a website to check these things called willtheyfit

My guess is the cheap n80 is to blame. Buy cheap buy twice the saying goes, don't mess around buy genuine. A poor fuel cap seal can also throw codes. That 'port' on the intake is normal and shouldn't have anything attached to it.

Thank you. Am i on the right way?

Thank you, let me know what you are gonna find out for number 1 🫣😉

Are these breather holes?

Will send you PM

Yes please

I'm sorry I missed your message. Do you still need my help?

Absolutely, an ideal idea for Christmas - I think that that was when I first bought my VCDS back in Christmas 2000 or 2001!

Hi, This one is pretty similar to what I used. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135709654756?_skw=skoda+autodimming+mirror&itmmeta=01M7DMZXN61REXT0AH6R7YJYKB&hash=item1f98ecfee4:g:znYAAeSwKc9oAQnn&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde%2F%2BScYTeFLpcKeZnqF5dZO0ylDeF3GRHZdHMdn8SqTeEO8hd%2BpRQ2%2FH1t72tPfLx%2Fc0ducyTE70z2w2PmhTBauWmldtyuJIWog9BCRgw9SFeWoqJaW0y8TqVIj178qJZFCbKUKhtTCl7%2BCytucDeiL7lAoycn95mPDUQ04E8yrtRvxpId4AfLjUhtYEvLse7mNfqd7qUgLlZSCmfAo3UYcjMDewVgh9qtxG4rszDdixwwk5HfwmyOITsqKO895nr4U%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Lb_7S7aA It does have the wiring connection included. The Fabia mirror / windscreen is a different design from the Superb. The FII uses a small foot / mount which is also integral to the windscreen whereas the SII and other cars use a larger bracket - 3AA845543B. The larger bracket fits around the small FII one and I hid it with the screen adhesive. You will get it from a dealer.

Had to replace our radio head unit but it didn't come with the 4 digit pin code. Cost $50 Aus but got it done through this UK site https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/ Just need the Serial code from the side of the head unit. Was surprised it worked but all good and working fine. Andy

3) Yes, Change dataset from unit A5

That should be good news, I did bump into "Haynes manuals back" in something online. I've made my own way across to a supplier of genuine "snap shots" of VW Group resources grabbed from erWin - they work well although maybe a bit hard to "digest/navigate" at first. Which is hopefully where the reinvested Haynes manuals prove their worth. Edit:- it was easymanuals,co.uk that I have used in the past, a good experience, still using the 2 that I bought, for a 2011 Audi S4 6MT and a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT.

Ok, it was indeed a false alarm and due to scanning while the car was running. Thank you Binx1310.

As no one else has replied... Firstly, give the sensors a good clean. Dirt on the sensor can send them haywire. VCDS can identify sensor faults - maybe Christmas can justify the purchase. VCDS can also "uninstall" the rear parking sensors module from the installation list. The module itself (on my hatchback) is in the boot mounted on the LHS behind the side covering. I expect the estate/combi is the same as the floor pan is identical on both models. Without VCDS I would unplug the module from the loom.

Hi! I have a Skoda Rapid 2017 diesel and sometime when I run the AC the fans continue spinning for a minute or two after I turn off the engine. Why is that? Is there anything to worry about? I’ve recorded a video of the fans running so you can see what I mean. Thanks! Danijel_Meglen_32581-360p30.mov

Have a look in the neighbourhood of the throttle body, it may be dripping down the back of the engine from there. The breather system on the CBZ engines is rather complex and involves several components including a little rubber diaphragm valve in the intake manifold which seems to me to be very likely to clog and stop working as designed. This then means the engine breathing won't work well at idle, causing oil to get where it shouldn't. See my Rescue Roomster thread, page 2. A simple test of this is with a fully warmed up engine, loosen the oil filler cap to the point it can be lifted away, but don't lift it. See if it tends to be pushed upward, pulled downward or just vibrated a bit in place. It shouldn't be the first of these if the engine breathing is working well.

Have a look at this page in my "Rescue Roomster" thread. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/531352-petes-rescue-roomster/page/5/ Pretty sure someone chimed in on this subject saying ECU relearn was unnecessary. You'll also see that it's possible to 'tweak' the chain timing with minimal disassembly, which included some discussion of cam sprocket fastening. It's my current opinion that this is a good substitute for chain replacement, and that the quoted maximum extension of the tensioner is probably due to the associated timing correlation drift and risk of valve/piston approach, which is 'reset' by what I did. Time will tell.🙂

Having used Haynes workshop manuals for many years (and many cars) I was dismayed to find they had discontinued printed manuals when we got our Fabia 3 1.2tsi - same story with Octavia 3 1.6 TDi. Lots of stuff available on the web of course but less convenient and can be confusing! Idly browsing recently - SURPRISE !! - they've started doing them again. And they are now printed on better paper with better pictures. So in case this has gone unnoticed by other dinosaur home mechanics I thought I'd post it here.

Having used Haynes workshop manuals for many years (and many cars) I was dismayed to find they had discontinued printed manuals when we got our Fabia 3 1.2tsi - same story with Octavia 3 1.6 TDi. Lots of stuff available on the web of course but less convenient and can be confusing! Idly browsing recently - SURPRISE !! - they've started doing them again. And they are now printed on better paper with better pictures. So in case this has gone unnoticed by other dinosaur home mechanics I thought I'd post it here.

Hi, I have the same TDI200 4x4 MY 22. 1) Not paid attention to this yet. I'll take a look 2) No 3) I don't think so. Maybe @Cairus knows...

I may throw some solid scabby patches on to get an MOT and then I can try and steal some ramp time to do the sills properly. thinky face emoji.

Rear springs for the Superb MK2 marked (1 White, 3 Orange, 1 Brown) has OEM part number 1K0511115DE and build code 0YE. 3C0511115AF is two up in the hierarchy compared to 1K0511115DE. Sach 994 337 rear springs (matches 1K0511115DE) Wire diameter 12.25mm Length 362mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/1k0511115de?supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=32&supplier%5B%5D=246 Sachs 994 364 rear springs (sold to replace 3C0511115AE, 3C0511115AF) Wire diameter 12.75mm Length 357mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3c0511115af?supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=32&supplier%5B%5D=246 Kilen 65059 rear springs (matches 3C0511115AF) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391130827593

Right, don't get excited, there's no REAL progress, the sills are still a hellscape, we're just regrouping to figure out a new attack plan for that. But... new bouncy guys went on after some fine pitch nuts got delivered this week. They're MUCH less horrible than what they replaced and the back returns nicely when you shove it down. I touched up the DON'T sign on the beam with a paint pen so it's a bit more readable. I HAVE new bearings for the rear hubs, but since it's the pit of winter now and this thing isn't going to get legal till next summer at the earliest I decline to fit them just to sit and rot, till then this kind of race surface is FINNNNEEEEE you shut up. It's back on its four feet, it'll need a bit of brake bleeding but at least it will be yard drivable again whilst sill plans get formed. What a piece of trash.